A photo would be useful.
Anyway, expansion tank (or spare tank) acts to store excess coolant from radiator when it expands from cold during operation. When it cools down (after you stop engine), coolant will contract and it draws coolant from the tank. This helps to ensure there is no air in the pressure part of cooling system. Air promotes oxidation aka rusting.

Therefore, if your expansion tank is empty, I feel you should check the coolant level in the radiator too. If you keep losing level, you have a leak.

I doubt it's literally 100% deionised. Nevertheless I'd still use it over tap water. How much coolant do you lose, over what period of time?
So far, none of my previous cars had needed coolant top up, since very little water is lost from evaporation at expansion tank.

Honda has two types of coolants, aptly named :
Type 1 which is red
Type 2 which is blue.

Iirc, type 1 requires dilution with distilled water, whereas type 2 is pre-mixed type. This is so that users don't screw up their cooling system by adding tap water during coolant change.

The issue is when we lose coolant without leakage, as in the case of our City. I can assume it's lost through evaporation from expansion tank, which means if we add Type 2 coolant, as suggested, will it not cause an increase in concentration? Perhaps the top up rate is too low (compared to the whole coolant inventory) to make any significant difference.

That's because pure water corrodes, and for cooling system we normally add additives (in the case of industrial use).

Should be Al. In any case, using pure water will corrode it.

I think using tap water is discouraged not so much because of rust, but rather due to potential build-up of mineral scales that can impede heat transfer, either through the forming of a non-heat conductive layer, or fouling of the radiator tubes/passes.

1. That variant might not have VSA
2. VSA cannot fight laws of physics
3. Other factor (s) might be causing the crash - broken control arm, broken drive shaft, puncture, playing with hp or unmentionable body parts.

How does revving the car for 3-5mins at 2-3k rpm help when short drives can't? I'm pretty sure short drives encompass engine revving at 2-3k rpm, and certainly more than 5 mins.

Yup, for me, I'll stress to my family not to crank up the car just to see if engine can be started. Doing so would ironically make the engine unable to start.

Anyone facing sulfation issue with their battery terminal (the red terminal)? My car is 2 months' plus.

Thanks for the tips on how to remove the sulphate from the terminal.

I'm wondering it is common for Honda City stock battery to have sulphate build up in under 3 months of usage. Or whether there is any leak from the +ve terminal.

Do you know if it is alright to simply disconnect the battery to do a proper cleaning of the terminal - whether it will render the keyless entry, alarm or whatever system haywire?

I believe it's the aircon compressor cutting in. But it cannot be after few minutes as the compressor cuts in moments after starting engine. Mine has the sound too. Next time, try starting the car with ac off to see if sound appears.

The problem with such cams is the mirror tends to vibrate.
I'm using yi cam for front, mounted using Nimitz mount at the stalk of the rearview mirror.

Depends on each dealer. Better get the SA to state clearly in ink, instead of you said I heard.

Check with you, the so-called canbus is actually a resistor (which increases wattage of the led bulb to avoid hyperflashing), or it's Canbus to cancel error message in cars with Canbus?

Never underestimate the appeal of Toyota cars. The present Vios loses out to City, imo, only due to its low spec (2 airbags), ugly DRL and price. If UMW bites the bullet and bring in top spec models at reasonable price, City will suffer in sales.

I have no issue with gps and mobile network in my ride with 3M Crystalline.

I'm using 3M Crystalline (with safety film for windows). It's been close to 3 months and I'm still amazed how well it cuts down the heat and glare.

My next car will be using the same film unless something better appears in the market at comparable price.

60/40/40/40.
It does not interfere with GPS. For smart tag, the installer did not tint the dotted section behind rear view mirror, so I just need to hold/place my smart tag there. It helps that the area is wide enough.

It does not interfere with auto gate and apartment security card access.

What I like is the viewing through the tinted glass at night is not dark.

Now that you mentioned it, I seem to recall my 3-month-old ride is having slower winding window at the rear left, compared to rear right - which incidentally seems to be slower than the front windows.

I would not connect power bank to a dash cam that does not have parking mode. I don't want it to record all the time - generates heat which shortens the cam life and unnecessary writing to the uSD card.

In a cam with proper parking mode, the cam will record xx seconds before the impact/motion detected.

I'll just let them change it in order to avoid any issue with aircon warranty. Yes, it can be easily changed by us but on record it states you did not change at stipulated interval.

Some of us here are sure changing it ourselves won't void aircon warranty because it's just a filter. To me, it's the same scenario as changing engine oil at outside workshop using Mobil 1 Gold - hey, I'm using a better oil that what the SC offers, so why should my engine warranty be forfeited if I tell then to skip the oil change during my stipulated service appt at Honda SC?

Guys, the manual says "Do not unlock the door using the key. The security system alarm goes off".
Not the most well written statements, but I get the drift.

I am not able to find what to do if the remote transmitter battery is flat and the alarm goes off because I need to unlock the doors using key.

Will the alarm clear once I start the engine (by placing the remote at the start button)?

Thank you for your reply.