There are many reasons. Budget could be tight at that point in time, or buyer was overly conservative in budgeting for the new ride. Buyer thought he doesn't need the features at that point in time. And most importantly, buyer's remorse. Happens all the time.

I use paddle shifter when going downhill to get engine braking. Best part is, as long as the road is steep, the transmission will keep the gear selected so it helps to maintain or at least not have the car speed up on its own.

I'm not familiar with City with no paddle shift - is there a sequential gear selection at the gear shift for you to use? In your case with no paddle shifter, how do you downshift if the road becomes more steep?

Say we are in either D or S mode. If the down slope becomes steeper, I just need to use paddle shifter to downshift to say, from 4 to 3rd gear (I know it's virtual gear and all that) and I get more engine braking. Now, without paddle shifter, what can I do if I want to downshift to 3rd gear?
If I switch to L, what gear will it go to by default? If the default is, say 2nd gear, would the transmission shift from whatever gear it's in to 2nd gear?

I too don't think it's worth to add in the paddle shifter viz paying for the higher spec that has this feature. The question is not whether it's worth it or not, but why he didn't choose the spec that has the feature when he decided to buy his car. Hence, the reasons I gave. I can classify this as buyer's remorse because he misses having this feature in his car.
I can certainly understand his feelings because I made two mistakes before:
1. I bought an Iswara instead of Wira in the nineties because I thought all I needed was four wheels. RM36k vs RM52k then. THe Iswara had no power steering, lousy brakes, had only front two power windows and had lousy handling.
2. I bought a cheaper car with one airbag rather than the Altis which had two airbags, better leg room and FC.
On hindsight, I was better off buying the more expensive cars because I would have used the "better" cars longer compared to the "lesser" cars, not to mention the remorse.

It's called buyer's remorse for a reason. I have already given you the reasons. In the case of paddle shifters, he might not know he needed it at that time. Since he needs it now because he goes to Genting every month, or for whatever reason, should he sell away the car and buy the E or V spec model?

You have just described what buyer's remorse feels like ... "if only.... ".

Did you tell him he should have thought it over before signing on the dotted line and buy the V spec in the first place?

Different people have different ways of handling buyer's remorse. Some live with it while others try to rectify the shortcomings. Those that can live with it should not preach to others to do the same unless specific advice is sought by the latter.

Those who claim never to have suffered from it should get off their moral high horse because hindsight is always 20/20. Nobody likes to have commission regret, but it's not as if everyone can just go for the most expensive model because they want to avoid buyer's remorse. Circumstances and needs do change.

Nope. Never have.

I sometimes only switch off my headlights after switching off the engine or opening the door because I forget to switch it off earlier. Can't help not being a perfect driver.

Yes, drove a Bezza in Kuching with headlights switched on due to driving on remote roads. Didn't have to touch the light switch when stopping for breaks. Auto off when ignition is off.

Got worried reading comments on how the battery suddenly dies, so got myself a battery tester.
Side note: there are people who believe that it's crucial to start an unused car every few days to keep battery charged. This is proven wrong (to me) today.
Before starting, voltage was 12.90V.
After starting the engine and revved it (to check cranking and charging health), the voltage dropped to 12.79V after the engine has been stopped. So, it's worse off, not to mention polluting the engine oil due to cold start and stopping.

I'm wondering why the battery has only 12.9V after stopping for 2 hours. Is this normal?

Yes, indeed it's the Lancol. I managed to key in JIS 38B19 too after toggling with it. It seems your car starter takes power from the IMA battery, as the 12V battery voltage doesn't drop?

I clamped it on both battery terminals. I think clamping at a few areas is a good idea too, can tell how good the ground wire is.

It's stock battery bro, about 8 months only. I figure that since batteries nowadays seem to last 1 year thereabout, I can send it for the next servicing earlier to claim warranty if the battery deteriorates badly. So, the SOH is the yardstick, right?

Will do, thanks for the tip.

The window horizontal rubber strip is not air tight (to allow movement of the glass). Water from outside will travel inside. IINM, there should be drainage holes at the base of the door to drain out this water. A plugged hole can cause water build up and it will flow out via the path of least resistance.

I tested the CCA twice. First was using the battery option that required me to enter the battery AH as I could not find the JIS option at first. It gave the same 395CCA as when I tested using the JIS input. I think Hybrid uses different starter motor due to the start-stop feature.

I retested with JIS mode because I could not find JIS option at first, not because I wanted to try different modes

What I mean by different starter motor: your Hybrid has start-stop function, which means the starter motor is going to be under lots of stress from much higher usage, so it cannot be identical with that of regular City?
I remember reading that the Bezza with start-stop function uses different starter motor compared to the variants without start-stop function.

To the bro who faces water leakage from under the door when it rains, you may want to check the door drain holes as shown in red circles in the photo below. If both holes are plugged - for whatever strange reasons, water might build up and flow out from the door trim edge as shown by yellow arrows.

No problem at all, bro.

The holes are pretty big to be easily blocked. I've had many old cars and none of them ever had blocking issue. First I'd try to poke them with metal wire to see they are not plugged. Then can try simulating rain on the external window glass. Whatever water that seeps through the glass into the door will flow out from the holes.

Ha, I didn't expect the third hole
Actually, water seeping into the cabin from the door can also be caused by the weather strip on the door that fails to channel rain water to the bottom of the door. When the door is closed, the weather strip forms a seal which allows water to flow to the bottom of the door instead of into the cabin. Think of it as a "gutter" on our roof. Any misalignment will channel the water the wrong way.

While you are testing with water with door open, you might want to do a test with door closed to see from where the water flows in from.

That was mentioned by the bro who owns Hybrid, and he mentioned it only happens when the car is in EV mode or something like that and cold starts still require the 12V battery.
What we were discussing about is the shorter cranking time needed in the Hybrid viz regular City, which I speculated to be caused by differently-built starter motor in the Hybrid that allows longer life due to start-stop function.

If you look at the engine bay, you can see most, if not all, of the bolts are marked too.

From an engineering perspective, I speculate the possible reasons:

1. As babylon52281 mentioned, it indicates that the marked bolts have been torqued with the proper torque value. Now, why do we need to mark the bolt instead of torquing each bolt as we fasten it? Well, in industries (non-car), the bolts/nuts will first be tightened lightly. Then the proper torque will be applied manually. Hence, it's not practical to torque every bolt the moment it is fastened. Also, there is a proper pattern to torque bolts, for example, the star pattern for even force, when torquing our wheels. It's not like how typical tyre shop people do it - simply whack from point A to point B. So, there is a risk of bolts not torqued if they are not marked.

2. It allows for easy visual identification of loosened bolt/nut. In every new machine, vibrations may loosen certain bolts/nuts despite the torquing done. As it is neither practical nor possible to check the torque value of every nut/bolt in an inspection, manufacturers can pick a few problematic areas and observe the marking to see any loosening. Hence, I reckon the mechanics are supposed to check key components/bolts for loosening during our 1k inspection.

3. It discourages parts swapping by unscrupulous dealers. If you see that your alternator mounting bolts don't have properly aligned markings, you know it has been tampered with.

and other reasons I can't think of now.

Which cover? The engine oil top up cover?

My spare tyre doesn't move from its position even without being secured.
The only major movement would be during car turtling and rear collision, but since ours is sedan, it doesn't concern me.
In a rear collision, the biggest danger is not whether the spare tyre is secured or not - it's the presence of spare tyre itself, which introduces an object much harder to deform compared to the rear crumple zone.

Dear All,
When renewing insurance under HIP at Honda dealer, do they need original VOC or photocopy VOC (or both not needed) if I renew my insurance at the branch I got my car from, or another branch? I only have the photocopy.
And is original or photocopy VOC needed if I renew my insurance with a different insurance company?


I have not tried, and I don't think I will. Will it cause water leakage because it might interfere with the "compression" of the door weather strip?
In addition, that might be good for wind noise, but I think nothing beats a proper soundproofing using insulation as the strip doesn't filter tyre/road noise.