I chose V spec due to 6 air bags and rear LED lights (brighter and lights up faster than filament bulb). The rest of the goodies are just bonus.

I don't find my 8-speaker set-up any better than the set of budget after market component speakers in one of my earlier cars.
In fact, I find it crappy and I'm not even an audiophile who's into SQL thingy.

It's a cool feature (no pun intended) until you drive in the rain and you wonder whether you have switched on the headlights.

ABS juddering is much stronger and you hear/feel scraping sound because your tyres literally skidded on/off.
The vibration due to warped rotors is much gentler.

I'd recommend you to try activating the ABS in a safe location to get used to the feel, so that you won't instinctively release the brake pedal in an actual emergency scenario.

??

Isn't it supposed to be that way? I mean, even kapchais now have auto lock instead of having a separate lock macam Suzuki RC80/100 of the past.

Whichever first, if you are concerned about not voiding warranty.

I think you guys are confused with the steering lock. What he means is the anti-theft lock, not loss of motive power.

In City, it's the same as other key-based cars when you shutdown the engine and pull out your key. Once you switch off the engine (total off) in City, the lock will be engaged and you'll hear a click if you try to turn the steering wheel. And this is when you realise you can't turn the steering wheel anymore.

Two schools of thought as far as I know:
1. You turn until it clicks and steering cannot move liao, baru considered lock, because it cannot turn now.
2. The lock mechanism has already engaged the moment you shutdown the engine and everything is switched off. When a thief tries to steal your car, he will lock the steering if he tries to steer - assuming he does not hack your car lock system.
That is why when you activate ACC mode (press the start button but don't step on brake pedal), you will hear something moving, which I assume is the unlocking of the steering wheel.

I belong to the second group. I start my car with a single push (instead of what is commonly believed, but not proven few-step mode), and I switch off my car without switching off the radio or air con.
Certainly won't turn the steering to lock - this is out of habit because if you do this to a car with regular key, you need to turn the steering a bit each time you want to start your car to release the lock mechanism or you need to twist the key hard. And all my previous cars had normal keys.

No offence bro, but is this your first car?
The steering going back on its own is the reason I don't activate the click after I shutdown my car. You are "forcing" the thing to unlock if you activate the click and you don't turn the steering a bit when you unlock the steering by pressing the start button.

Indeed any additional visible lock will be safer.

Online fund transfer. Max 30k per day, so gotta split into 2 payments. It's free compared to cheque.

I'm not sure of the daily limit, but if they allow >30k per day, why not? You need to ensure you get the correct bank account number.
I was told that they follow account number without checking the name of account holder tallies - this is for inter-bank transfer.

The not checking name was told to me by MBB CSO when I had problem transferring fund to a biz with numbers in the name. M2U does not accept if the name is, say, Ah Hua8 Enterprise.

Will the teller be able to cross check the account holder's name in an inter-bank transfer? Our friend wants to trf from mbb to another bank.

You press "RES" when you want to re-activate the cc at the previously set speed. So, if you were cc-ing at 110kph and you cancelled the cc to slow down the car to say, 80kph, the car will rev to achieve 110kph if you press "RES".

In this situation, I usually bring up the speed myself at my own rate, and only switch on the cc when the speed hits 110kph.

On a hilly road, I feel our own foot can control better using the glide method - when you are going up slope, you don't need to maintain the speed at 110kph like it will do if you leave it on cc - only to brake when you go down slope again. Of course I'm not suggesting you do this pulse and glide at the expense of other road users behind you.

Hmm, this I am not sure. Will try when I have the chance.

All I know is when you off the CC but the main "cruise mode" is still shown on the dashboard, and you press the "set" button, the cc will be activated at the speed where you press the "set" button. If you press the "RES" button, it will resume the last cc set speed.

In my FL, the cc icon remains on until I press the separate CC on/off switch at steering. It remains on even if I don't use it, say, after I step on the brake or temporarily cancel it.

Mine can move in out a bit when touched. No vibration on its own, or at least I didn't observe any. However, there sometimes is a "click" sound when do sharp cornering at low speed and also when I pushed it when driving.
Power of rattle is coming to me soon - at least it's only after 6 months

Very possible. But I'm not going to touch it for fear of making more mess.
Only opened it once for tinting job.

Thank you for sharing. Do you happen to have a photo of the packaging?

Great. Thank you!

I don't understand at all. If the deciding factor is the seat and you are not keen on having leather seat, what is there to think about?