If you choose tyre balancing n rotation, please ensure they know you want to follow the pattern in the user's manual. Mark each wheel the original position (FR, RR, FL, RL).
I got charged rm128.49 for the fully syn oil, which I find acceptable compared to the default oil.

And if your coolant is low, either tell them to refill with coolant or leave it. You don't want them to put in tap water.

Yes, so the pattern should follow "tyres without rotation mark".

Duh, it's exactly due to uneven wear on left/right that necessitates rotation so that on the fourth rotation, each tyre would have been fixed in all positions. If we follow the SC pattern, the tyres will return to ori position on the next rotation, and one side will wear out more because of uneven camber.

Edit: and pulling sideway can be due to poor alignment, not tyres that have barely covered 10k km.

And today I discovered all my 4 tyres have exactly 200kPa pressure after my servicing yesterday, not the recommended 230/210 kPa.



This post has been edited by mushigen: Feb 16 2019, 01:29 PM

On a properly maintained and rotated set of tyres, the wear would be very similar in all tyres, hence there should be no noticeable feeling after a rotation, or at least not on my rides. Psychological effect, perhaps?

In the grand scheme of things, the weight of the sole occupant of the car may not matter much - and that is assuming your car is properly balanced (left vs right) in the first place, which nobody can be sure of. And I assume the manufacturers have factored in the driver's weight, as again it's assumed most cars are single-occupancy vehicles.
And I did add "on a set of properly maintained and rotated tyres"...

I think it's unlikely to break. I've had chips on front windscreen which did not worsen.

In any case, if it propagates, you still have time to change it. Or you can get it patched up by those glass specialist.

Crap. I paid for alignment and didn't get this report.

Wait... shouldn't they check the alignment after rotating tyres, like how all tyre shops do it? What is the logic of checking alignment, then rotate tyres?

Edit: oh, so they confirmed car pulls to one side and didn't correct it because you asked for the proper way to rotate tyres? Or do they expect to see perfect alignment each time they check it if you had allowed them to rotate tyres their way?

This post has been edited by mushigen: Feb 16 2019, 11:14 PM

Guys, are you given the original invoice or carbon copy after paying each servicing and signing the invoice?

At least you know your alignment is out. Me? I don't even know if they really checked. I'll feedback to the service manager.

Exactly, that's the purpose. But they didn't do it because you asked to rotate the proper way, it seems.

Do check your tyre pressure. Mine was set to 200kPa all round. And the spare tyre pressure was not checked, let alone topped up to 420kPa. I had to do all this today.

from the service report, it does seem that they imply if the alignment is out after they rotate your tyres based on the pattern you requested, they will charge you RM75 for it. Which is confusing, because you paid for tyre rotation and alignment and they are supposed to correct any misalignment detected in the first place.

It's like saying, if you rotate tyres based on their pattern, they will correct the alignment if misalignment is found after the tyre rotation. And if you rotate tyres based on your own pattern (which ironically is the recommended pattern), they will not correct any misalignment detected and you will pay for the alignment correction again.

Now you have a misalignment which is not corrected, which the SC thinks is a result of your tyre rotation pattern?

I didn't check if they added or changed any counterweights. May I know why you asked?

The weights are to balance the wheel.

For tyre pressure, I think it doesn't matter how accurate the pump at petrol station is. What's important is knowing they pumped in the same pressure in all tyres, which is incorrect.

Idk, but if I were you, I'd ask them whether they corrected the alignment after rotation. Ask them
1. the reason for recommending alignment checking in the first place.

2. Whether the alignment would not run if they rotated using their pattern - otherwise why they recommend alignment checking in the first place?

3. Whether there's any difference in the effort and tools it takes to correct any misalignment found after each of the two rotation patterns. If no difference, why must you pay rm75 for correcting it?
And did they charge you rm75 for the first alignment checking? Cannot be that expensive.

My ride has no such issue from Day 1. Recently had my alignment and tyre balancing done at SC, still drives straight.

+1.
None of my rides show this flaw because I'd get it corrected if they had.

My 10k svc was due on 14 or 15 Feb. I serviced on time last week. I received SMS today, reminding me my nx service is due in March.

Feels strange to me. Did you try seeking advice from tyre shops with alignment sifu? I'm 100% sure my ride doesn't drift or require periodic driver intervention on any road I drive on.

If someone says yes, another says no, who would you believe? Perhaps the SC people will be in a better position to answer.

Mine too doesn't have the tightest gap. The boot lid is even worse on the left and right of number plate.

From my experience, this is exactly one of the issues to correct when we send the car for alignment checking.
I'd get it checked asap since it might affect tyre wear, and surely it cannot be a pleasant way to drive.

Wait...does your car drift only when you centre your steering wheel? Meaning, when the H logo is vertical?
Or each time you let go of the steering wheel, the H logo is not vertical, but the car still goes straight?

My FL City does not have this issue. I don't think the mechanism for FL and pre-FL is that different.

If you remove your glove compartment, you can see the flap move when you toggle recirculation on/off. This flap is to stop or allow outside air going into the aircon blower upstream of the cabin air filter. The source of the outside air is the vent at the base of your windscreen.
It's like a "gate". When you select recirculation on, you can see the flap move to the position where the air is sucked from your car interior (hence the word recirculation). You can see whether the flap closes snugly when you switch to recirculation.

Chances are, in your case,:
1. the flap does not close snugly - due to either defects or the actuator that moves the flap itself
2. the flap is deformed
3. the flap is stuck in open position

Are you aware that you risk voiding warranty if you don't service the car on time?
Hence, it's to your benefit to ensure you secure a slot to avoid this scenario, regardless of whether that SC allows walk-ins.

1. It depends on whether your favourite SC has the slot, and you will only know about it if you ring them up to check. What you believe may not be what is happening. What I did was to call them early, book a slot. Closer to the day, if I need to change, I'll ring them up again to change to check for new available slot.

2. Fully synthetic is optional. The SC I went to chose the fully syn package for me, which was fine for me because I would have opted for it anyway.

3. For City petrol version, the maintenance package says to change filter at 10k, whereas it's not stated to be changed for Hybrid model. For my V spec, the SC did not replace the cabin air filter for me. I checked the filter days before servicing, and it was still relatively clean anyway. You may want to clarify with them if the service advisor asks you to change. Btw, the SA should point out the work needed and optional stuffs before proceeding.

Mine is lunar silver, and I find it nice and easy to maintain. Downside is , there seems to be more such colour on the road nowadays, which makes identifying your car in car park a little more difficult

Installed Locktech but removed it after two weeks. Right foot kept touching that thing when braking, especially when wearing sandals and sports shoes.