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 Honda City Gen 6.0/6.1 V10

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mushigen
post Feb 26 2019, 05:57 PM

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QUOTE(SMH @ Feb 26 2019, 05:48 PM)
Thanks for heads up & sorry to hear that bro..

Since your comment, I actually hold down my phone and took video of my right foot switching back/forth between brake & accelerator, just to see my driving style will allow how much clearance/space left for pedal lock. And seems like possible to accommodate pedal lock, keep my finger crossed...
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The left side of my right foot actually touched the section where the double -locking mechanism sits. Refer to photo (taken from internet) with the orange sticker.
You might want to request the installer to let you try it out by placing it there without tightening the securing nuts.

user posted image
mushigen
post Feb 26 2019, 10:10 PM

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This post has been edited by mushigen: Feb 26 2019, 10:16 PM
mushigen
post Feb 26 2019, 10:16 PM

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QUOTE(otnuus @ Feb 26 2019, 09:10 PM)
Is the Y-cable visible or hidden? I cannot enter the service area in SC to see the installation.
Not sure if this is call accessory mode. With the lock engaged, I can press start button to turn on the instrument panel. But I cannot start the ignition actually. Still have to step on the brake and press the start button. With or without the Y-cable, what is the expected behavior?
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To start the car, one needs to step on the brake pedal (safety precaution). The car knows you have stepped on the brake pedal when the brake switch is activated and your brake lights will be on.
This Locktech, due to generic design, will not prevent you from activating the brake switch because there will be "free play" on the brake pedal with Locktech in locked position. Hence, you might inadvertently start the engine with the lock in place, creating danger.
Therefore, the Y-socket comes to play - treat it as an on/off gate. In Locktech locked position, it will not close the brake switch circuit, so your car will think you have not stepped on the brake pedal.
mushigen
post Feb 27 2019, 11:42 AM

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QUOTE(Zer0pulse @ Feb 27 2019, 02:47 AM)
guys, want to ask, how much is the cost of your first year renewal of car insurance? mine is tokio marine and it cost me 2300... im planning to still getbthe HiP..
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My insurance premium is RM12++ for the brand new City V, including RM1400 windscreen coverage. Add in special perils coverage, total RM16++ for 55% NCD.
mushigen
post Feb 27 2019, 02:45 PM

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QUOTE(abc7177 @ Feb 27 2019, 11:47 AM)
Any one using Osram T10 bulb?
can it fit into the plate number, map light?
I previously bought from Taobao and the bulb was too long to fit into the casing... wacko.gif

user posted image
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I am using the Osram T10 LED bulbs that were bundled together with Osram Nightbreaker headlight bulbs. They are the same size as the incandescent bulb that came with the car for the number plate lights.
And I think fitting the LEDs on number plate lights is a wrong move because they make my number plate so visible at night doh.gif
On the bright side (sorry for the pun), I guess I won't have to worry about bulbs failing soon. Changing the licence plate bulbs can be a PITA if you follow the proper way described in the user's manual.
mushigen
post Feb 27 2019, 08:33 PM

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QUOTE(gloomberg @ Feb 27 2019, 05:17 PM)
Hi guys, should i wait for the new honda 2020, or just get one now. I have a functioning car right now, not in a rush la, but wife bising haha.
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This is a question only your wife can answer.
mushigen
post Mar 1 2019, 04:52 PM

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QUOTE(wilcwo2003 @ Mar 1 2019, 02:40 PM)
Since Day 1
If you install leather seats outside -- it will cause you airbag to be unable to deploy.
2    Two side airbags, one for the driver and one for the front passenger. The
airbags are stored in the outer edges of the seat-backs. Both are marked
SIDE AIRBAG.
E Spec with side airbags cannot upgrade seats to leather
V Spec comes with airbag pre-installed at factory and meets the requirements for airbag deployment
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It should not be an issue as long as the installer knows what they're doing and use special thread at the area with airbag.
mushigen
post Mar 1 2019, 07:26 PM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Mar 1 2019, 06:38 PM)
OEM seat and airbag suppliers work with each other doing countless testing to ensure the airbags will reliably deploy in the event. Does outside 3rd party installers carry out such assurance testing on their products? I highly doubt it.
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Are you assuming all leather seats for CKD cars are factory fitted and sent to Malaysia instead of being fitted by 3rd parties in Malaysia?
mushigen
post Mar 2 2019, 12:03 AM

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QUOTE(wilcwo2003 @ Mar 1 2019, 10:59 PM)
Nope, its not about the thread they use, when the airbag deploys, it will split your leather/fabric in halve.
You can try, and of course no one wants the airbag to deploy but when it matters, better to be safe than sorry.
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Do you know it's much easier to break the stitching than to have to tear the leather?
You might want to google how side airbags are deployed.
mushigen
post Mar 5 2019, 09:58 AM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Mar 4 2019, 11:05 PM)
Firstly, what engine oil spec ur currently using? For cars that have done long mileages, my thinking should go for lower viscosity and fully synth oil. Reason is the carbon buildup and engine wear is already substantial so using thicker oil will make it less responsive and sluggish. Sifus here might have another opinion tho.
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Not sifu, but precisely because of higher engine wear, the use of higher, not lower, viscosity oil is encouraged. This is to enhance engine protection and reduce oil loss.
mushigen
post Mar 6 2019, 03:57 PM

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QUOTE(SMH @ Mar 6 2019, 03:42 PM)
Dear Sifus,

The spare tyre - it is facing downward, so air valve is also facing downward, makes it difficult for me to pump air.

I wish to place it the other way round - facing upward, so that easier to pump air for spare tyre, but where to get a long mounting screw to lock it down that way?

Something like this:
user posted image
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I mount the spare tyre upside down too so that I can pump it easily. I don't use any mounting bolt. I placed a piece of car mat below the spare tyre to avoid vibration. On top of the tyre, I have the rubber boot tray in addition to the original cardboard-like board in the boot, so that helps to keep the tyre in its place.
And in the space around the spare tyre compartment, I put my rain coat, gloves, and some barang.
mushigen
post Mar 6 2019, 04:26 PM

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QUOTE(SMH @ Mar 6 2019, 04:08 PM)
Thanks for sharing bro!

I have boot tray too (courtesy from SA), now i just need to source a piece of coil mat to cushion it smile.gif

How much tyre pressure you pump for spare tyre? the tyre pressure sticker on door states 420Kpa/60psi gave me a shock, I never pump that much all these while. Well i just drove for 1 month+, i have yet to pump the spare tyre...am thinking 36psi shld suffice?

Will like to know how much you pump yours.
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420kpa bro. The pressure is high due to skinny tyre. Fyi, my folding bike tyres take 90-100psi.
mushigen
post Mar 6 2019, 05:14 PM

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QUOTE(SMH @ Mar 6 2019, 04:29 PM)
Alright. Will try 420 kpa, hope it wont explode, hahaha
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Lol, I first pumped in 360kpa. Later on, I increased to 380, then 400, and finally 420kpa... if you are worried, put on ear plugs as you pump. As it's a new donut, it should not have any problem taking the recommended pressure.

It's futile to expect the SC ppl to pump it for you, as mine didn't bother to do it at 1k and 10k servicing.

mushigen
post Mar 6 2019, 05:39 PM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Mar 6 2019, 05:26 PM)
I just take it as good exercise to remove the tyre, pump it and return it. Its not like we have to do it as often as the running tyres anyways.
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The spare tyre placement position is not the most ergonomically designed place, so I'd rather not have to do tyre flipping every month or so.
To take it out, you need to lift the edge of the cardboard and boot tray and support them with one hand - you'll notice there is no hook to hold the boot cardboard like what's found in some cars.

In addition the hold-down bolt's wing nut is so freaking stiff.

Coupled with cars waiting to pump their tyres, it makes for an unpleasant experience - especially with other cars so near you and you wonder whether they will accidentally crush your legs while you struggle with the spare tyre.

Now I just need to lift the boot tray, remove the tyre valve cap, and pump the tyre without having to take it out.

mushigen
post Mar 6 2019, 05:41 PM

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QUOTE(TrollNoob @ Mar 6 2019, 05:38 PM)
Can see pictures taiko?
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Picture of spare tyre placed upside down? Just imagine it as a big coin with face up instead of face down position.
mushigen
post Mar 6 2019, 09:20 PM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Mar 6 2019, 06:05 PM)
I see. Well, I guess I'm quite lucky in that sense that around my area got quite a number of petrol stations. Tho most of the time I will pick the timing when there is unlikely many people will pump their tyres (usually late in night).

When I do pump for my spare, what I do is to remove the boot tray and boot cover at home and keep it aside, then flip my spare over like you did, and go fill up my tyres including the spare, then after return home I securely lock the spare and return the cover and tray. I do this at my own sweet time so it doesn't bother others who would like to pump their tyres if so happens.

I also have my big pliers and a can of WD40 if it gets too tight. The toolkit from Honda is very spartan so I added some of my own and a set of spare fuses & bulbs, plus a couple bottles of water, safety vest, collapsible warning cone, raincoat, and glowsticks.
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Ah... the advantage of staying in a landed house vs apartment cry.gif
I see you are also a safety conscious guy: I have a collapsible cone, two breakdown triangles, a battery operated beacon with magnetic base, raincoat, welding gloves, safety vest, jumper cables, cable ties in the boot tongue.gif

QUOTE(cempedaklife @ Mar 6 2019, 06:56 PM)
So the issue happened lately again. I noticed that the piping which is supposed to be cold (at least the first picture one) is hot. The Two fans at the front is Turning so that's not a problem.

Someone mentioned in the forum about the smell and he got the correct description I think. It's smells like hair spray.

What could be the problem?

user posted image

user posted image
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If the gas pressure is OK and your AC compressor runs without problem (else, it could be magnetic clutch issue), chances are you have a bad expansion valve that fails to regulate the refrigerant flow.
The bad smell you get could either be:
i) heating up of the yucky stuff on the external surface of the evaporator coil (because you got warm air instead of cold air)
ii) minute leakage of refrigerant from the evaporator coil

QUOTE(ahpunk @ Mar 6 2019, 07:06 PM)
is there any readily made rear dashboard and 3rd tail lamp cover available? wanted to replace the original cream color to black color to reduce reflection.
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I know how it feels. During the test drive of this pre-FL City, I was badly distracted by this. For FL V spec, the housing for the 3rd brake light also reflect light although it's black. I just place a piece of rubber mat over it. You might want to get a piece of thin rubber coil mat from accessory shop to place over the back.
mushigen
post Mar 7 2019, 11:42 AM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

That explains it. The hot compressed gas was not cooled/condensed due to the blockage. Since it's not condensed, the refrigerant was unable to expand, thus unable to cool the air via evaporator coil. Expansion from liquid to gas absorbs energy, making the refrigerant cold.
mushigen
post Mar 7 2019, 01:44 PM

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QUOTE(cempedaklife @ Mar 7 2019, 01:07 PM)
This morning the air con damm cold. Normally I would have tune it down but I really wanted to test it out. And I was stuck in jam and the weather is getting hot. It was tune to '1' for wind and max for coldness just like normal when only front passenger is in.

As preciously mentioned, previously it doesn't always happen all the time as well. Since Dec, I think it only happened 3 times starting last week. I'll continue to monitor and report back.
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I was wondering why the AC compressor kept running when you had that plastic bag covering the condensor. The discharge pressure would have been higher than normal (condensing the compressed gas lowers its volume and hence lowers its pressure).

A high discharge pressure is bad for centrifugal compressor as it can lead to surging and overheating.
mushigen
post Mar 7 2019, 02:24 PM

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QUOTE(cempedaklife @ Mar 7 2019, 02:14 PM)
Agree, which is why Im not sure and worry there is some stress and long term effect on my compressor and the whole system.

But the fact is that its not always warm. So perhaps at times the plastic moved a bit, allowing more air intake, sometimes depends on the weather, colder weather more effective, depends on whether I'm stuck in jam a long time, depends on whether I have the engine running while waiting for ppl.

But then again, theoretically, I'm not an aircon guy, but theoretically, because the cabin is warm, shouldn't the compressor keep running as cabin is not cold enough, instead of starting and stopping which should be the norm? Regardless, It is still out of norm and it could have long term effect.
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Some cars IMO have high pressure switch to cut off compressor, for example when the discharge pressure is high as in your case, or when the expansion valve is jammed (creating low or no flow from compressor discharge). In this case, it should cut off the compressor.
Some cars have low pressure switch at to avoid damaging compressor when there is insufficient gas. In my previous Merc W124, I experienced a blown AC hose (high pressure hose). The AC compressor was cut off automatically by the LP switch because there was no more gas to compress. A centrifugal pump or compressor must not be allowed to run dry or without sufficient flow.

mushigen
post Mar 8 2019, 11:57 AM

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QUOTE(jimmy lai @ Mar 8 2019, 07:53 AM)
current city e spec player really don't have slot for cd/mp3?
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If it's the same as V spec, no.
I miss having a CD player with 10-disc cd changer combo.
The cd slot can double up as HP holder too.

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