Thank you for your reply.

I set it to recirculation all the time. I did go around sniffing like a dog, everything smells normal. Even the aircon filter located behind the glove compartment smells normal.

Now that I think about it, recently I don't remember seeing water on the car park floor after a drive. I suspect the evaporator drain hose is clogged, which is unexpected given the age of the vehicle. So far, there is no water dripping onto the carpet, suggesting the clogging has just started, if any.

Will try to operate on fresh air mode to see if it helps, although I never had such issue with all my previous cars with the mode set to recirculation all the time.

It's usually caused by mildew in the ac system. Just that I am not expecting it to happen to a 5-month 6,000km car. And mine is not just during the initial few seconds after start up.
I owned my previous car for a few years, bought used, and didn't have this problem.

Just checked this morning, thank goodness the evaporator drain is not clogged. Blasted the aircon for ten mins with fresh-air mode, aircon compressor off, and bonnet open to allow hot air to suck in. Hopefully can clear the mildew for a while until I get the anti-bacterial spray to clean up. Going to buy the Lysol spray from ACE.
I was just wondering if this is an inherent issue with City. I read in Civic thread of this issue too.

I bought a bottle of Caltex TCP to stand by.

Thank you for your suggestion. I've Googled and found the DIY solution using anti-bacterial spray through the fresh air intake under the wiper. Will try this first before seeking professional help.

No wonder my sensitive nose symptoms act up again recently.

Yup. Thanks for the reminder. Will use the balance of spray to clean my mbr aircon.

Google is my friend.

The evaporator becomes wet during operation as the air is chilled, that's where your dripping water from aircon comes from.

It's a perfect breeding ground for fungus, mildew, etc.

If you shift down using paddle shift in D, the position will be held as long as the car is travelling down slope. Pretty neat feature if you are travelling on highway with steep slope when you need to use engine braking.

I have used a few sets (4 tyres) of XM2. They last for ages, never had the chance to use till botak. Iirc, the tread wear is 400.
On my City with stock GY Excellence, I find the GY comparable to xm2 in terms of road noise and dry/wet grip. Disclaimer: xm2 were on different cars and Mpv.

I'm contemplating replacing my driver's side window 3M scothshield with regular crystalline. I guess it's the side with least possiblity of kena smash n grab.

The head rest is not so easily removed if you are seated in driver's seat. You need to push the latch at the base. I don't think I'll be able to remove it when I'm sinking.
The curtain airbags will be the problematic ones.

I see City has 2 radiator fans. Anyone knows how they function, as in, whether they have high and low speed, or one fan acts as auxiliary cooler that cuts in only when the first fan kaput or fails to bring down temperature?

And today I discovered that the ECU won't allow us to rev the engine in N or P above 4100-4200 rpm.

My previous manual Jap car limits the rpm to 6000 when in gear.

It's 1000km or 1 month, whichever comes first.

Then 6 months from date of registration or 10,000km, whichever comes first.

Then 12 months or 20,000km whichever comes first.

Iinm, earth dream refers to CVT, which the hybrid is not equipped with.

I don't feel any abnormal vibration there.

Didn't know that. Always thought earthdream refers to the cvt.

I prefer having ciggie lighter ports because I think USB outlets are less reliable in the long run.
I mean, the ciggie port in 20-year-old cars tend to still work whereas I've had USB port failures in laptop and desktop computers, and some old power banks. Most of the time, the contact point becomes intermittent due to corrosion or oxidation or loose contact.

I can feel engine vibration on my steering wheel when I engage reverse gear with brake pedal stepped on, when I want to exit my car park lot in the morning.
Since it's in warming up phase, the rpm would be slightly above 1000rpm. The vibration disappears when i put to P or N or D, and comes back when put in reverse.

When engine rpm is normal (like driving off when just finished shopping where the engine does not cool down too much) there is no vibration.

I'm thinking it can't be engine mounts failure on a 6 month old car.

On my 2nd tank of RON97, I got 16-17km/litre for my VSpec when I drove from Png to KL, then KL to Png. This is lower than the 18-19km/L I used to get using RON95. Same pattern of driving, similar traffic conditions.

Somebody's got to pay for the coffee and snacks.

That's cheaper than most tyre shops.

If you download the maintenance PDF file from HM website, it doesn't include tyre rotation.

And for my V spec, the same maintenance schedule found under Quick Guide states to change pollen filter at 10k whereas yours does not have

This post has been edited by mushigen: Feb 15 2019, 10:13 AM

Just sent my car for servicing today. Told the SC advisor not to do alignment and wheel balancing because the mileage is just 7k and I don't experience any swaying when driving fast or slow. And I intended to rotate the tyres myself as I have jack stands and floor jack.

However, the advisor somehow did not exclude this and the did alignment and rotation for me. And damn it they rotated my tyres based on uni-directional tyres, i.e.,

Front right <--> Rear right

Front left <--> Rear left.

I checked and confirmed the stock GY Excellence is not uni directional tyre.

Rm38 for alignment and RM25 for rotation, plus additional 6%sst.

There will be a "ROTATION" word with an arrow to denote, well, rotation. On the stock GY tyres, what's important is not to mount the tyres facing wrong side, as there is a "OUTSIDE" word on the side facing outside. Since tyres are not removed from rims during tyre position rotation, there is no issue.

Your car will not need to change engine oil at 1k servicing.
The default oil price shown in the maintenance chart is good enough for 10k interval, as stated in owner's manual iirc.
During my 10k servicing, the SC advisor selected fully synthetic oil for me without asking if I wanted to upgrade. When I asked whether the cheaper oil is good for 10k servicing, he said "this upgraded oil is better". Who doesn't know fully syn is better. My question was whether the default oil is good enough for 10k so as to not void warranty.

I have friends who only use dino oil from day 1 and their car didn't seem to be worse off.
Why they do that is you know I know.