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 Honda City Gen 6.0/6.1 V10

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mushigen
post Jan 5 2019, 09:08 AM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 5 2019, 12:39 AM)
Yes, if you needed to brake more or harder than usual that means its time to change. Screeching sound only happens when reach the end of the pad and reach the metal backing. Mainly city driving, huh? Only slow speeds no wonder you did not feel anything wrong with braking.

The rule of thumb from my previous car pomen, 60k km for front pads and 120k km for rear pads (this is on Persona Gen 1). Unlike Persona braking which evens out the force among 4 brake pads, City much relies on the frontal pads since the rear is drum brakes. I think safe to assume need to replace City brake pads when reaching 50k km.
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Are you referring to 4 pads (2 wheels) or 4 tyres?
If 4 tyres, it might not be true because iinm all cars require more brake bite for front wheels to avoid skidding (that's why front rotors are bigger than rear). And if it was true, your front and rear pads would last about the same mileage.
mushigen
post Jan 5 2019, 09:56 AM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 5 2019, 09:33 AM)
Persona Gen1 have all 4 wheels with disk brakes. With disk brakes having better braking efficiency, less braking force goes to the front wheels (hence more equal distribution of braking to all 4 wheels brakes).

Think of it as braking force ratio, front: rear
For Persona with rear disk brakes, 55:45
For City with rear drum brakes, 65:35

Which is why rear brake pads needs fewer pad replacements than front but at much higher rate than rear drum brake shoes.
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It still means front requires more braking power. Not equal.
mushigen
post Jan 5 2019, 10:32 AM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 5 2019, 10:22 AM)
I never did say it is equals, I meant rear disk brake setup evens out more braking force to the rear wheels compared to rear drum setup. I hope this clarifies.
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The engineer in me takes the meaning of "evens out" literally, lol.

Speaking of rear drum brakes, I don't find the braking power of my City lacking in any way, compared to other all-disc brake of cars I've driven. Only thing is sometimes it's a bit difficult to modulate, especially at low speeds, where the biting point becomes difficult to predict. Macam newbie braking.
mushigen
post Jan 6 2019, 02:11 PM

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QUOTE(yang90 @ Jan 6 2019, 12:35 PM)
Today check my new city tyre pressure, omg 300kpa each , is it normal? Will it cause bad FC? What's the best tyre pressure?
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You must have checked it after driving for a while. My new City had "only" 280kpa.

Your required tyre pressure is shown at the sticker at B pillar at driver's door.
mushigen
post Jan 7 2019, 12:02 PM

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I don't understand why certain people get upset when people ask basic questions. You can always choose to ignore if you find the questions too stupid for you. After all, this is a forum to share and find out information, no?

And while it is noble to try to make people learn, have we stopped to ask ourselves why we do that? People need specific answers to a specific question, so we either answer them or ignore them.

Questions like "how long have you been driving?" do not help in this situation.
mushigen
post Jan 7 2019, 01:56 PM

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QUOTE(legendaryNOKIA @ Jan 7 2019, 01:41 PM)
Question: for the city, can anyone enlighten why the car start to accelerate then will come with sound "klok klok". What is the sound?
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You might want to elaborate how you get that sound, where it comes from (front right, front left, rear right, rear left, etc), how long you've had it, your car mileage, type of road surface, how loud it is, etc.

I haven't the faintest clue, except to suspect it's the ABS module sound at 40km/h when driving from stationary but that is only a klok, not klok klok.
mushigen
post Jan 7 2019, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(HMMaster @ Jan 7 2019, 02:27 PM)
my car got some "tak tak" sound coming from the rear. Can't really re-produce it as it is quite random. Anyone else having this problem?
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Read a few complaints about the sound from rear. Some say it's from the latch where the rear seat is secured when it is not folded. When you have someone sitting on the seat, it creates a gap between the latch and "hook". A little tape wrapped over the latch/hook should solve the problem.

Then there are more serious ones involving the rear axle or torsion beam.
mushigen
post Jan 10 2019, 09:31 AM

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QUOTE(ycgoh123 @ Jan 10 2019, 01:53 AM)
thanks for the explanation.
if normal smooth accelerate it feels ok but most of the time i will be in the traffic jam(old klang road  doh.gif ) so cant have smooth accelerate all the time. i just feel not so good. almost every time i let go the pedal it pull back then press again it go then pull back again it is like when i downshift my motor bike gear lol
i don't remember i got experience this before but i think it become more and more obvious recently so i worry got problem there. sometime the gear like no power until it upshift gear and then it jerk again.
if all these are normal then is ok. and ya this cvt respond is so slow  laugh.gif
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For torque converter CVT, the difference with traditional planetary gear system AT is mostly during pick up from stationary. Your description does not seem to be due to not getting used to cvt. In fact, it looks like a normal AT "problem".

Most importantly, you mentioned it has become more obvious. Mechanically speaking, alarm bells should ring when something deviates from the norm. More so when you can feel it. Please get a second opinion from SC.
mushigen
post Jan 10 2019, 09:33 AM

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QUOTE(ycgoh123 @ Jan 10 2019, 09:27 AM)
just found out another problem recently. normally the abs module will kick in at 40kmh. now when i start the ignition (i dunno what it called, i mean i press the button without press the brake pedal first) then i start it and i go, there is a weird sound come in before 40kmh, i guess it is the abs kick in earlier. but when i start the car directly, the abs is normal.
lol. why my car seems got so many problem
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How are you able to start the engine without activating brake switch?
mushigen
post Jan 10 2019, 09:59 AM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 9 2019, 11:30 AM)
Refer here https://www.honda.com.my/uploads/pdf/mainte..._1.5_2014YM.pdf

Washer drain plug is refer to the engine sump plug that they open to drain out engine oil for replacement, they will replace with a new one everytime they take out.
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Er, should be drain plug washer? From the maintenance list, the SC only changes the washer, not drain plug right?

When i changed the engine oil of my Toyota non SC workshops, I provided them with the washer bought from spare parts shop.
mushigen
post Jan 10 2019, 11:08 AM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 10 2019, 10:44 AM)
Hmm... at least this is what my Proton pomen told me when I was servicing that car back then. The new drain plug have locktite on the threads to lock in the plug. So everytime the drain plug is removed for oil change, the locktite bonding is broken, hence old one not secure for use and need to replace with new one.

I haven't seen how they do it for Honda (can't walk into workshop area), so I could be wrong in this. I apologise, if I am. But its a really cheap part and price is included in engine oil so I don't see the benefits of skimping on this part.
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Threadlock, makes sense. I'll check with Honda SC during my 10k service nx month.

QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 10 2019, 10:45 AM)
Thanks to you, I now find a new function for my City. Today go home time I also want to try this EMO mode too.  icon_idea.gif
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You will cry, bro. From lack of power.
mushigen
post Jan 10 2019, 02:05 PM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 10 2019, 11:22 AM)
Lolz! If based on best review here, i would say its the Penang SC where sifu gsan goes to. They close both eyes to all his kaw kaw mods. Hahaha!

You don't really need to go so far unless its ur preference. I also heard bangi SC quite good but i wouldn't want to go so far just to service. I just go for one nearby and if not satisfied, I go another nearby, until I find one that I like then I stick to it. For my City I already on my 2nd SC, so far this one quite okay except for my noise  issue and waiting time like wanna cekik someone.
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My SA told me that usually the SC will close both eyes when it comes to mods during your normal servicing. Both eyes will auto open 100% when you want to feedback defect and potentially claim warranty.
If I were the technician/SA, I too wouldn't want to waste my time and risk offending clients by taking photos of all the mods and record down everything I see when the owner only comes in to do regular servicing.
mushigen
post Jan 10 2019, 03:02 PM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 10 2019, 02:32 PM)
I can't vouch for that in every SC. Its reason why i keep my mods to minimum and quite hidden. Easily plug out and replace back with ori parts in case of related warranty claims. But if something like sifu gsan mods, i think difficult replace old parts back in. If SC wanna kacau, they can do that in this case. So i prefer to stay safe until I know the acceptance level there. At least, I won't do anything major until 4th or 5th year of ownership.
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I wasn't implying it's ok to mod and get away with it. All I was saying is just because the SC keeps mum during regular servicing sessions doesn't mean there will be no problems leaving the mods on when claiming warranty.


In fact, I'm telling myself to remember to remove the OBD door lock thing when sending the car for servicing.
mushigen
post Jan 10 2019, 09:01 PM

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Dear all, my car is due for 10k/6mth svc in mid Feb.
I checked with my SA and was told I'm allowed to drag by 1 month or 1000km, whichever first. I won't hit 10k km by Feb though.

As this is right smack in CNY period, I'm busy travelling, by air and by road.

Has anyone heard about the 1month grace period?
mushigen
post Jan 11 2019, 11:22 AM

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QUOTE(dickybird @ Jan 10 2019, 11:00 PM)
One month’s grace after expected service date is fine. Or 1000km more than service interval is also acceptable.
Or you can do it earlier since service intervals are also time based also.
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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 11 2019, 01:27 AM)
I haven't heard of anyone getting one month extra. IIRC, the longest someone had delayed was 3 weeks. Myself had delayed by 2 weeks b4 but never dared push it further. Maybe I should do that so I can clock in more mileage.

BTW CNY is early 1st week of Feb. I think if you do it at last week of Feb should still be okay.
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Thank you for your replies. I called HM hotline just now, was told "nope, we don't encourage delay > 1 week as it may affect warranty". Maybe SOP answer.

QUOTE(yang90 @ Jan 11 2019, 08:34 AM)
user posted image

City'18 E spec, may I ask the black round sensor? is wat for? Is it functioning in E spec?
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In my previous non-Honda car, the manual said it's for cabin temperature sensor for the aircon. That's why when you move from a shaded place to sunny one, the aircon will give a higher blast automatically, when set on auto.


QUOTE(safe118 @ Jan 11 2019, 08:55 AM)
Hi, may I ask whether you determine the 10k/6mth service date from the date your new car registered or after the first 1k/1mth service?
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For 10k/6mth, it's from the date of registration as the first service is only for checking and no fluids are changed. For 20k/1 year servicing, it follows the date/mileage of your 10k/6mth service.
mushigen
post Jan 11 2019, 12:02 PM

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QUOTE(dickybird @ Jan 11 2019, 11:56 AM)
Not quite apples to apples but Volvo Malaysia service intervals are 12 months or 20000km. Smh.
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I know that BMW in certain countries specifies 25k svc interval. Not sure what the latest interval is though.
Iinm, previous Honda City were under 5k svc interval requirement.

Thing is, how long a grace period does Volvo Msia give for delayed servicing before trying to void warranty?


mushigen
post Jan 12 2019, 01:33 PM

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QUOTE(dickybird @ Jan 12 2019, 01:22 PM)
Is it this one?

https://www.google.com/amp/s/shopee.com.my/...92523.663595018
Me thinking to buy a battery to keep in the house just in case.
Scary. When I'm sending the kids to school and I have the only car available
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Do take note that the new battery loses its charge over time.
Second, when the car battery dies, you still need to take it out to replace with the spare battery - a task not many people look fwd to in the morning, with school-going children waiting and wondering whether they'll be late.
Having removed the battery to clean the terminals, I can tell you the puny battery weighs more than you'd expect.

I'd do a preventive maintenance by replacing yearly, since I know the MTBF is 12-15 months, if I cannot afford any unplanned down time.

Edit: i realised you might be talking about power banks...
Iirc, jump-starting a vehicle with dead battery might damage some electronic or electrical component. I've damaged a motorcycle rectifier by push starting the bike.

This post has been edited by mushigen: Jan 12 2019, 01:36 PM
mushigen
post Jan 17 2019, 04:41 PM

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How often do you guys check your spare tyre? I just checked mine today after owning the car for 5 months. The pressure was only 280kPa, vs the required 420kPa.
I had assumed it would be checked during my first 1000km servicing. And the retaining bolt is so difficult to open with bare hand. I decided to place the spare tyre with the air valve facing up for ease of checking, which means the retaining bolt is not long enough to fit in.

QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 17 2019, 04:01 PM)
Tongsan mari... oh wait. Hahaha! rclxms.gif

Honestly thou, as ex Proton car owner, I think partnering with Geely was the best option. I was looking at HRV FL specs and quite disappointed that Honda Sense isn't going further downrange. They can do it, but for some reason they stopped at CRV, and likely Civic FL too might not get it. Doesn't do the brand image any good if you withheld your features that you included on the same car elsewhere.

Heck, even Myvi has some crippled form of AEB! Why Honda, why?!!
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Because Honda cars sell like hot cakes.
mushigen
post Jan 17 2019, 09:28 PM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Jan 17 2019, 05:33 PM)
1) If there's nothing weighing down the boot floor, the loose spare wheel would be bouncing around and hit the underside of bootfloor.

2) Well, that's just like Toyota then. The reason why I went for City and not Vios because I felt being shortchanged with the outdated interior, technology, specifications and importantly, safety features. At that time, i felt Honda was going great guns by offering better than market segment average safety features (DRL, ESC, 4 airbags vs only 2 airbags and none of the rest on Vios). Now the market has caught up (Toyota Rush has AEB too!) but if Honda still feels their cars no need improvements, they are not going to stay No.1 for long just like Proton & Toyota.
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1. You are right. I took this into consideration viz the ease to check the pressure. Decided to do this because:

i. the spare tyre is quite heavy, which helps lessen the bounce
ii. the board in the boot has four sponges that sit on the spare tyre, which helps to keep it in place

iii. I have a PVC boot liner, which further adds to the weight acting on the spare tyre
iv. I placed a piece of redundant coil mat below the spare tyre, which cushions it from the floor

v. my previous car had this arrangement because the plastic screw that held the spare tyre seized and was removed by force to free the tyre, rendering it useless. Didn't have any issue with bouncing, granted it was a full sized spare
vi. the risk of having low pressure in the spare tyre is higher, with higher severity, compared to risk of having it "bounce around".

2. I was in the same situation as you were in! I have been a Toyota guy and I never owned a Honda before. It didn't help that people were complaining about the poor quality of CKD City. The kosong spec of the Vios put me off. My requirements are simple: six airbags, 5* NCAP, ESC, reliability.
As for AEB, I was actually seriously considering the Myvi due to this feature, but held back due to the imo questionable safety aspect.

QUOTE(cempedaklife @ Jan 17 2019, 08:39 PM)
I have no idea why they design it that the valve is facing down. You have to dismantle the bolt just to refill the tyre.
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Yup. I was trying to understand why it was mounted face down. Is it to protect the air valve? And the darn bolt is so stiff that it requires spanner to loosen. I have chosen to store it with the air valve facing the opening of the boot for ease of checking pressure.
mushigen
post Jan 18 2019, 10:02 PM

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Dear all,
My car is 6000km, 5 months old. I am experiencing mouldy smell from the aircon when I switch it on,it smells like wet clothes stored in cupboard. Sometimes it clears off after a while, but sometimes it lingers on.

I checked the aircon filter. It's still relatively clean and no mouldy smell from there.

Anyone experienced/experiencing the same thing?
Did you get charged for AC servicing when you complained to the SC?

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