Info sharing:
My 3 month-old City has sulphate build up on the battery positive terminal. Cleaned it a few weeks back, and it re-appeared.

So, I removed the battery, cleaned up the terminals with baking soda solution and applied silicone grease on the terminals and the leads.

Made few discoveries:

1. The tiny stock battery is really heavy, comparable to standard sized one.

2. I disconnected the battery for a total of 45 minutes. Only the clock got reset to 1am, the radio station presets and bluetooth connection were intact.

3. The car alarm did not activate - no siren and doors were not locked - upon re-connecting the battery.

Wouldn't an accessory shop be more knowledgeable on this?

0w20 price should be 160 based on the info given.

Oh please, Malaysians are not so stupid. Barking dogs usually don't bite.

True, even for non-audiophile like me. Also, I notice the radio reception is quite poor.

I'd call Honda Malaysia hotline.

Correct. I just checked it earlier.

This post has been edited by mushigen: Dec 20 2018, 11:04 PM

Guys,
How often do you top up your coolant expansion tank? I read in previous version threads about coolant loss, so I bought one bottle of Type 2 coolant to stand by. Never did I expect my coolant level to drop so fast. 4 months and 5k km, this is the level now. In all my previous cars, I never had to top up any coolant.



Haha, a few weeks ago, I bought one bottle to stand by, but my mileage is only 5,000km after 4 months. Hopefully it won't go bad when it's time to use it

How often does your coolant expansion tank level reach the min line?

It was at the max line when I got the car. The manual says to top up with coolant, and to check for leakage if there is excessive topping up requirement, or something like that. What is considered excessive is not stated.

Need to top up to max line before sending for servicing, in case they top up with tap water.

Thank you for your reply. Glad to know it does not consume coolant the way some cars do engine oil.

There are only 2 ways to lose coolant:
1. Leakage into engine or external leakage
2. Evaporation from expansion tank, which should be minimal.

That's the problem. I'm not able to detect any coolant leak externally.
I thought maybe there was air trap in the radiator during assembly, so once this air is vented out via expansion tank, the coolant level should drop a bit but stabilise, not keep dropping.
In my previous cars, radiator and coolant flushing, and even replacement of the whole radiator did not cause coolant loss over months.

I see resistors...for signal light?

Yup, guess I'll top it up to the max line and monitor from there.

I feel for you. It doesn't help that accident claim procedure in Msia sucks.

I'll never put the visor at driver's side because I don't like to have my view blocked, especially if the visor is dark. The A pillar is bad enough.

Does it sound like something is vibrating at high frequency and it appears at certain engine RPM? I have this sound, for example, when going uphill where the RPM is a tad higher than normal.

Looks nice.

A few factors involved. He complained as a driver or passenger?
Front seat or rear?
City seems to have stiffer suspension.

Brake pad wear depends on your driving pattern and braking habit, so it doesn't mean they must be replaced at certain odo readings.

My only experience with worn brake pads was when one of the inner brake pads got totally worn off, leaving metal to metal contact, which gave out a loud metallic scraping sound.

Imo, the pads should not lose their bite when wearing out, so it's probably best to have them checked. Don't ignore the rear brakes too.

From what you described (especially when you compare it with the feeling when it was new), it's either you have air pocket in the brake fluid, or the brake booster is defective or your brake pump is leaking/not functioning well so that it does not generate enough force to clamp the pads onto the rotors. When was the last time you changed brake fluid? You might want to replace it or bleed the brake fluid lines or both.


I used to change my brake pads of my bikes, and from what I see, I don't think it's possible to adjust the gap between pad and rotor. The piston moves to push out the pad so that it touches the rotor. When there is not enough force to push the piston out, you do not get enough reactive force between the pad and rotor surface, causing less friction generated.

Please keep us updated for learning purpose, ya. And I'd do it ASAP if I were you.

I wish City had rear fog lights. Useful when travelling in very bad weather.