I'm not a sifu for Iriz or manual transmission. Here's some advice:

For (1), I don't know the cost for manual transmission oil or what's the best, but I think sticking to Ori shouldn't be a problem. I've changed auto gearbox oils before on my gen2, barely felt any difference between them. Some say gear change more smoother with better oil, but I didn't really feel an improvement. Changed from Ori to Liqui Moly, but had to sell my car before could try the famous toyota oil.

For (2), could be a few things actually. If knocking sound and really uncomfortable driving experience, then it's absorbers. Could also be other parts like mounting, etc. I haven't really had a proper look at the torsion beam yet. Not sure what shock absorbers are Proton using now - but aftermarket absorbers can be cheap or really expensive, depends on what you are looking for. Kayabas are cheap (~RM100 each for rear), but it was not reliable for me - I had oil leaks in just 6 months of use for front, and 1 year for rear. Honestly, keep stocks - best of both worlds (comfort + handling).

For (3), If you're going for stock, I would just go to SC actually, because it's really difficult to find a good shop that won't sell you junk. Just don't do alignment and balancing at Proton...

I used to go to Doris (Shah Alam). Some have recommended Zordaq (Shah Alam) as well. Nice guys who knows a lot about Proton, and they give reliable advice.

I read somewhere it was Epic store exclusive, though. Hopefully, it will come to Steam as well. Damn Epic...

What exactly is RM700?? For gear oil, you must follow service maintenance, if not the gearbox no more warranty.

Note: Zordaq has many outlets actually - didn't know before. haha

Crayzee, how did you remove the steering horn/airbag cover? I see two screws behind the steering, anything else? This won't affect the airbag right? haha

There's definitely something loose inside.

You sure you want to go back SC again? hahaha

Those guys follow SOP, and will not do anything if it's not in the book. Some might help, some might not. You can just remove the spoiler and add more rubber/tape so that it doesn't rattle. Or, just send to accessory shop... If they're not busy, they will help.

This is definitely important. Ok, I'll give it a try this coming long weekend. Remove battery terminal, wait 15 minutes, then I'll poke it. Lol

Thank you

Managed to get back your car already?

Who do we complain to for cases like this? Complain to Proton, and it will most probably fall on deaf ears. NCCC.org.my is for mainly legal means (e.g. warranty). The best to just make your case go viral. Ever tried complaining to their FB page?

This is from the MyProton App. Isn't the price difference a little too much? Even if it includes Labor, >RM150 for labor charge is too much.



This post has been edited by Jescon: Sep 14 2019, 10:01 AM

There's an app for android.

Rear KYBs do not cost RM350 for a pair. Did they change other parts?

My KYBs only lasted a year on my previous Gen2, but the road conditions around outskirts of KL is really bad anyway thanks to MRT2 and SUKE highway. Nonetheless, it should last at least 3 years. Inb4 anybody says I drive fast over potholes - there is no way to drive fast during rush hour traffic. I asked a foreman before and he told me KYBs QC dropped, and many people are complaining. I couldn't find monroe anymore.

I was recommended a shop that does their own absorbers in seri kembangan, they can set soft or stiff for their absorbers according to your needs. To repair their own absorbers, they charge minimum RM30 only since they can open the whole unit and change the faulty parts within the absorber. The name of the shop is PRS Sport Service. I have not been there myself, so I personally can't recommend.

Noice. I just checked it out. Finally, they're back

If the car is moving, yes. Stationary, no.

I agree that the steering is a little heavier than most cars, actually.

This is normal. It's called engine braking, helps with braking when going down hill. Pressing the accelerator a little would disengage it.

Further reading about Punch CVT: http://www.zerotohundred.com/forums/index....cvt-q-a.439802/

When I first got my car from Proton, it was 34 PSI, and it was very light. If you're feeling heavy at 34 PSI, then it's best to go to SC again.

Why not try the non-Edar SC? Sometimes the uncle foreman in there better than Edar. I've only been to World Car Care (Sri Petaling) - fixed old perdana brake sensor problem, and Pesona Mahir (Cheras) - fixed my AC Switch/Knob panel rattling. For the AC panel rattling, if I continued with Edar, I would have needed the leave my car there for 3 days.

If the posts that you read states "Iriz 2019", there's a 99% chance they are talking about the facelifted version.

I'll tell you this: the facelift is only exterior. Interior, it's the same with older versions - meaning almost the same rattles. But the rattles are fixable, since it's basically just adding cloth tape between any plastic-to-plastic contact. Campro engine is not EEV, but the CVT GB has been tuned to provide better FC and performance. Even though Punch CVT claims that their clutch CVT saves petrol while stopping (it basically goes into neutral by itself when you stop while pressing the brake), but in real world, this does not seem to be the case. If you're going through a lot of traffic jam daily - this is not the car for you. If not, go ahead, it's great car to drive around with minor traffic jams. If you go through a lot of bumpy roads like me, at times the Myvi's softer suspensions seems better.

Have you test drive the new (gen3) myvi?

That's weird. From my experience (2019 Iriz), I poured full tank petrol at Wangsa Maju Caltex, then drove to GPO. Parked there. Evening came down, and drove to McD Shah Alam. Only first bar dropped. It was during Merdeka day, so not much cars on the road, and I may have overfilled the fuel tank a little.

I even got my 3.8L/100KM picture during this trip by driving 70-80km/h on Duke. Lel. Once joined a minor traffic jam (the moment I took this picture, that's why 20km/h), then it started jumping up to 5-6L/100KM. Normal days on MRR2 is still 7.5L/100KM on average la.


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Nonetheless, just test drive the car. When the SA with you while test drive, ask him/her questions about rattling, EEV, and its SC being incompetent.

Honestly though, Proton parts barely fail, I give them that (following proper maintenance). I've heard of few parts issues with the new Myvi (don't know true or not). End of the day, pray to get a good car out of the factory from any manufacture - we have crap QC here. If you get lemon car...

Sell First, Solve Problem Later, or don't solve at all (since Malaysians very kind people)... more and more manufacturers are like this, hiding under the name of "disruptive marketing".

Iriz 2019 1.6CVT, 34 litres = 380KM, I would say 40%-50% slow-moving traffic.

Found this on some guy's facebook selling cabin air filters: https://www.facebook.com/JalanTengkuMohdMaa...?type=3&theater




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The Campro engine is not EEV certified, but the new 2019 Iriz can be considered as "fuel efficient", especially on long journeys, less traffic - though it is highly debatable. I drive in 20-30 minutes traffic everyday, to and from work (Ampang) ~50km. I also travel to other parts of KL/Selangor, but basically: 34 litres = 380km, which is about 8.9L/100KM or 11KM/L. I think the new (gen3) Myvi would be able to do this at 12-13KM/L. On long distance journeys, I'm able to get much better than this - check out Proton's 1-tank challenge; but they're not driving at 110/120 even on highway. I think about 6L/100KM or 16-17KM/L is definitely achievable while driving 110/120.
The RPM of the Iriz is about 3k at 110km/h, which is kinda terrible compared to today's standards - more work done by the engine = more FC.

Of course there's going to be a big difference between an Internal Combustion Engine (ICE) and a Hybrid car. A hybrid will always be at least twice as fuel efficient as compared to ICE vehicles.

This post has been edited by Jescon: Sep 26 2019, 09:31 AM