I have the steering wheel sound. Never solved despite complaining often during service so i just live with it.

Spoiler vibrates a lot making a lot of noise. Some people added sponge or soft materials but dont think it helps to solve it.

Sounds like same problem as persona. Sitting in persona suddenly the HU will randomly restart. Me as passenger also shocked especially since the "booting" sound is very loud.

Had this problem 2-3 times throughout 5 years ownership. Solution is to release the gas, brake then gas again it will release. When pressing the brakes it will be hard due to HHA.

I still have my car. I will assume that the HHA glitched out. No solution other than what i said.

Few factors may play a role in this.
1) number of people in the car.
2) using lower pressure in tyres(SC's probably use quite high pressure so they dont have to repump the tyres often). High pressure = lower rolling resistant = faster acceleration.
3) Could SC be using diff spec for test drive? eg: At SC u drive 1.6 but u bought a 1.3 currently(forgive me as idk what model ur driving).

He said car only 10k mileage so point 1,2,3,4 are not valid. 5 only if got faulty spark plug and that will make the car quite powerless from what i understand.

Not sure whats causing the sudden power loss and dont think it relates to brake switch as from what I understand thats only used during engine start. Only time i know when sudden power loss is someone who used aftermarket ECU. ECU had problems communicating with TCU resulting in the CVT's clutch disengaging hence rpm go up car doesnt accelerate.

Please let us know ur driving style and current rim size as it may help us to properly recommend you choices.

Also we have a whatsapp group for some smaller or faster discussions.
PM me ur details to be added.

Downgrading to that will give less side wall compared to a 185/60. Medium hard cornering should be fine for TR1 based on word of mouth and driving styles of those I know who fitted them on.

For normal city driving, this size should be fine. I cant say much for this size but avoid brands such as Silverstone(loses grip fast) and Falken(well, the tyre thread may last but not the tyre itself). I've fitten on Toyo NE3 while I was still on 14's but I didnt keep em for long and eventually passed it down to my dad's saga after I upgraded to 15's. Dry grip is good. Wet not so if ur going fast. Fish tailed once during one of my drives but it was due to driving fast into a long sweeping corner then sharper turn at the end of the corner and road was wet(Dont think there was any water patches).

I know someone using CLS springs. He said make sure to have good absorbers else the ride will be awful.

CLS is meant to work with stock absorbers. As long as their in good condition, they should work well with each other.

Heard works doesnt fit well. KNN does.

I dont think its as simple as plug and play for changing to keyless.

Using the same tyre as other people may not give you the same result. Best to mention other info such as rim size, driving styles and optional, budget.

Regarding 95 vs 97 theres no right and wrong answer of which to choose but 97 is more difficult to detonate which prevents the "knocking" from cars such as those with very high engine compression. However our Iriz only uses standard engine compression ratio and doesnt get any benefits from 97 nor suffer from engine knocking. Since RON 95 burns easily compared to 97 its more efficient and we will get better mileage and performance compared to 97.
Paultan - Saga RON 95 vs 97 test
IMoney - Myvi RON 95 vs 97 dyno test

I think the most common important thing is taking care of the cvt belt and clutch. I know initially when proton first adapted the cvt it was extremely jerky as if the clutch doesnt do any modulating but just remains either engaged or not. Also doesnt help that malaysians like to go heavy on the throttle. With Honda or Nissan CVT, they use a torque converter instead of a clutch which makes it smooth and I guess it sends less torque to the belt immediately(due to power loss from torque converter). Newer Iriz/Persona have quite smooth CVT's already which is a blessing to many.

Just bring to SC and ask them to look into it. Probably they will add some form of padding to stop it from rattling.

Don't mention it. For older Iriz, we have this IP kit(iinm thats the name) to reduce sounds from the dashboard area. Its free. Just go in and tell them ur plastic trim at the gear is rattling at what conditions.

Ive seen 1 car with it.

I think theres people who have fitted the Jazz and Swift spoilers. Theres also people with custom gt wings on.

No major issues since 2015 here.

Yaris may seem like a good choice due to plenty of features. Not sure about the new city thou.

My AC vents didnt fade but change to more greenish. Heard many have this problem and its due to the supplier manufacturing issue.

If you mean the handle as in to pull the door close, so far no issues with it. Same with door latch to open the door.

It is common issue.

Best contact them to clarify.

I left mine as it is. For the plastic cap. I dont use it because I always have an adapter plugged in. Can try searching shopee as the design should be universal.

Guess it could be a diy job for me post cny.