I believe it does show before the engine is started. As long as theres no "low batt" message before starting the engine(eg: key in acc) then it should be fine. My car will start showing "low batt" message if engine is not started for about 3 days but it cranks fine.

You can search for "car 12v cap" or "cigarete cap".

I dont think those t shaped strips does much but if after installing the ip kit and it still makes noise then I'd suggest either getting proton to try and rectify it during the next service or trial and error. Mine only the steering has rattling when driving over uneven roads but the dashboard was resolved with the ip kit.

From what I heard from people who replace antana, they say better get good one or original from manufacturer one as those cheap ones can have quite bad radio quality.

I have experience. Few times I went to a popular service center in PJ and they always overfill the oil. I told them to fill following the dip stick and return the access oil. SC returned the extra oil to me and bullshitted me saying this oil they top up on their own because proton needs 4.x litters of engine oil so the workshop normally top up the extra on their own. I never went back to that service center. Once they did it, I suspected that the access oil caused my top gasket to leak after lots of high revving.

2. Rid the silverstones for better tyres. Common touring tyres which people get are CC6 or XM2+. Performance tyres can get Flevas, RE004, PS3, TR1 but do ur own research on which tyre may be suitable for u as we dont know how u drive and what you want to achieve with new tyres.

3. Depending on car colour I have came up with design suggestions for my colleague to do wrapping and the outcome was stunning although he didnt completely do what I recommended. Current body kits to me aren't that pleasing. Even those from the infamous bodykit shop has a lot of quality issues but who am I to judge since I dont have money.

Regarding tyre sizing, bigger side walls will absorb slight bumps and road imperfections better but slightly affect the driving dynamics of the car although it will be negligible downside versus the gains.

Sounds about right. Thats like the normal price from what i heard from people who needs to replace it.

Few things such as installing more soundproofing material and probably investing in thicker glass. Heard thicker glass helps.

Impossible for stock car to be idling around 2-3k rpm. If not mistaken ac off the car idles around 650-700 rpm only. This also is with the engine up to temp. If cold start it idles a bit over 1k rpm. 2-3k rpm is highway cruising speed already.

I'm not sure what is the problem but may not be related to transmission since in P the clutch should be disengaged. I recommend that you try parking it at home and popping the hood and try to triangulate where the sound is coming from.

I had a similar situation to my bonnet. It was due to bonnet not pressing enough onto the button so what i did was remove the rubber boot and placed some paper at the end where it presses the button then when I installed it back no such issue anymore.

I'm not sure where the boot is getting the boot open signal from but if its similar then can apply the same technique.

Probably you have to send to those restorer shops such as Lucky Ampang or DK SCHWEIZER .