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[V31] Lowyat.Net Mechanical Keyboard Club
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niakulah
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Apr 18 2020, 07:44 PM
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QUOTE(ShadowFiendZXC @ Apr 18 2020, 06:44 PM) if iwant to buy from taobao, how much will kena charge import tax? In my experience, none. Never bought keyboard stuff more than RM500 at one time from Taobao, but I have bought plenty of leather and leathercraft tools that came to more than RM500 from there and have never been taxed.
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niakulah
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Apr 19 2020, 06:13 PM
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QUOTE(GRexer @ Apr 19 2020, 03:23 PM) It would not be in the way at all, to better illustrate the idea, I think a picture would do the trick. This was intentionally taken with various different colours so you get the idea better. Teal films over SMD switch over purple background.  Yes I can see how it would not be an issue with partially opaque bottom housings like cherry RGB switches. I'll be using Aliaz though whose transparent bottom would allow even more light diffusion. But I guess since cherry can manage with that kind of bottom, it should be fine.
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niakulah
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Apr 24 2020, 08:03 PM
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Really itching to do some keyboard mods during MCO but I'm happy with my 2 boards. So what to do? Buy more of course! Ordered another IKBC full size. Was very happy with it before. And it took me building a custom board and fiddling with the stabs to realise that IKBC stabs out of the box are already pretty awesome! So while waiting for the board and mod parts to arrive, I painted my old top case.
Sanded with 360 grit sandpaper
2 coats of primer. Sanded with 2000 grit sandpaper.
2 coats of paint
2 coats of clear topcoat
Turned out OK but less than perfect. At least I gained some practice and experience. If I don't like it I can do my new case as well. Maybe in a different colour and have interchangeable tops.
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niakulah
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Apr 27 2020, 03:20 PM
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QUOTE(horns @ Apr 24 2020, 09:14 PM) very nice yes usually stabilizers on ikbc boards are ok. it's one of basic characteristics of a better commercial board. Thanks. The board arrived. Waiting on springs, films and a new solder sucker.
Oh and waiting for Kat Atlantis to ship in October lol. So far failed to get any artisans at raffle  . Well hope my spray job is a good match. If the blue doesn't match well I'll probably spray my extra case gray, like this render.
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niakulah
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Apr 27 2020, 07:55 PM
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QUOTE(irsyadfy @ Apr 27 2020, 07:48 PM) or build a new board with gray alu  Would love to. Full size alu custom is a rare beast though...
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niakulah
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Apr 29 2020, 06:57 PM
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QUOTE(GRexer @ Apr 29 2020, 06:42 PM) TADA68 Minimal[attachmentid=10478994][attachmentid=10478997] [attachmentid=10478995][attachmentid=10478996] What better way to kill time over the MCO period than to build some keyboard projects? It involves some experimentation of a new method to lube the switches without desoldering them. While it brings improvement over the stock switches, I still reckon properly desoldering, disassembling, and lubing before putting everything back together as the better way to lube switches. Also, only recommended to do this ghetto lube job for linear switches since you don't have full control over where the lube goes.
Meanwhile, in terms of looks, I just really like how clean and minimal the entire setup looks. Black case, Black-on-White keycaps. So clean you can eat on it.Switches: Gateron Red Keycaps: Black-on-White Cherry-profile PBT Case: Standard TADA68 Black ABS case Tuning:- Clipped, lubed & band-aid mod Cherry plate-mount stabilisers - Ghetto-lubed main switches (Dripped Dry PTFE lube onto the sides of the sliders without de-soldering, definitely not :3ildcat's somewhat crazy, spray-everywhere, mess-everywhere style)- Stabilised keys lubed with Krytox 205g0 and switch-filmed (including left SHIFT, despite not stabilised for a more uniformed feel between left and right SHIFT keys)- Fully foam-padded case (multiple layers of anti-slip mat to make sure the entire space is filled, not just one single layer of foam)- Stock firmware flashed to VIA firmware Shameless plug: I build, customised, and repair mechanical keyboards. Contact me on FB Messenger if you had any questions. Clean AF.
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niakulah
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May 1 2020, 02:30 PM
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Mini review of this desoldering iron. https://shopee.com.my/product/40205456/1568468273?smtt=0.0.9
It works! It really does. It doesn't really get hot enough to melt lead free solder, but there are ways around that: 1. Melt/reflow the solder joint with a normal soldering iron, add some leaded solder with flux to the joint. 2. Use the desoldering iron, it should be able to melt the joint now. 3. Suck! Once I established my technique, I had about 12 switches left to do in the numpad, so 24 pins. All but 3 I cleaned out with a single suck. Just under 90% success rate. The other 3 I just added more solder and sucked it again.
My harvest this morning.
So happy with this very cheap tool! This post has been edited by niakulah: May 1 2020, 02:31 PM
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niakulah
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May 2 2020, 05:43 AM
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Guys, would this neoprene sheet be suitable to be put between PCB and plate? https://s.lazada.com.my/s.b0KK4I measured the gap to be about 3.5mm, if the product is OK, should I go for 3mm or 4mm version?
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niakulah
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May 2 2020, 01:43 PM
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QUOTE(horns @ May 2 2020, 01:37 PM) yes, there are people using it. 3.5mm is a good thickness so you should be good. there are plenty of options at taobao/aliexpress. you should check them out first. Yeah but they sell 3mm and 4mm. I haven't found any 3.5mm. So is it better to go too loose or too tight?
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niakulah
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May 2 2020, 02:26 PM
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QUOTE(horns @ May 2 2020, 02:17 PM) i use 3mm eva foam. with 4mm, you should cut it so that it's thinner. when the foam is sandwiched and squished between plate and pcb, they have room to go. Do you leave it loose sitting on the PCB or do you glue it to the plate?
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niakulah
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May 2 2020, 03:03 PM
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QUOTE(horns @ May 2 2020, 02:17 PM) Do you have a link?
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niakulah
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May 2 2020, 03:24 PM
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QUOTE(horns @ May 2 2020, 03:20 PM) i stick it on the plate, as it has single-sided adhesive, https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=576836206224 (10mm wide x 3mm thick x 5m long) Thanks 😊
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niakulah
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May 2 2020, 05:08 PM
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QUOTE(ntw @ May 2 2020, 05:04 PM) neoprene sheet between PCB and plate? Or do you mean between PCB and case? Between PCB and plate. A bit troublesome though. Need to cut holes for all the switches and stabilizers.
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niakulah
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May 2 2020, 05:28 PM
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QUOTE(ntw @ May 2 2020, 05:11 PM) that's something new.. is it supposed to make the place more solid? Well I first heard about it last year when I saw the 7V, but I think it's been around longer than that. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=100896.0Vibration reduction. Supposed to sound better. I want to see if I like it.
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niakulah
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May 2 2020, 05:33 PM
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QUOTE(horns @ May 2 2020, 05:25 PM) alternatively, you can do this with that eva foam that i linked: » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « [attachmentid=10481464]
this was done by quovadis123. mine are much more ugly but they're functional lol
Oh OK. That's one way to do it. How would you describe the sound before and after? I still like the sound of my XD84PRO (stainless steel plate/sandwich mount) better than my IKBC (powder coated steel plate/tray mount). I'm hoping to make the IKBC to have that more solid bottom out sound.
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niakulah
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May 2 2020, 05:48 PM
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QUOTE(GRexer @ May 2 2020, 05:40 PM) Probably a better proof-reader Neoprene isn't quite compressible, if you really want to use neoprene between the plate and PCB, I would suggest going for 3mm instead of 4mm. Good luck trying to cut out holes on it to fit the switches and stabs though. A sharp knife and a lot of patience is required. (Patience that even I give up on  ) Neoprene is good for in between PCB and case though, they are dense and heavy enough. I would recommend EVA foam in between the plate and PCB as horns had mentioned. Thanks for the advice. I may just get both sizes of neoprene. If it doesn't work I can stuff it in the case. I have plenty of sharp knives but from the small size of the squares needed, I'm thinking that wood chisels might be a better choice.
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niakulah
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May 2 2020, 06:07 PM
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QUOTE(niakulah @ May 2 2020, 05:48 PM) Thanks for the advice. I may just get both sizes of neoprene. If it doesn't work I can stuff it in the case. I have plenty of sharp knives but from the small size of the squares needed, I'm thinking that wood chisels might be a better choice. Actually, I just remembered I had a small leather skiving knife that I don't really use a lot. It's almost the perfect size.
Trace the plate holes in pen, knife straight down, strike with a rubber mallet . I also have a small leather plane whose blade is the exact size, but I think the resulting hole might be too tight a fit for the switches.
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niakulah
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May 2 2020, 06:41 PM
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QUOTE(GRexer @ May 2 2020, 06:29 PM) Chisels too take a very long time. I ever went to the extent of trying to get a square punch, no luck getting it in the right size. MCO got lots of time  In a way I'm also "compensating" for my first MKB. The IKBC I accidentally killed by modding. Too rush to want to finish everything in 1 weekend so I could bring it to work on that Monday. Its death will not be in vain!
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niakulah
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May 3 2020, 12:05 PM
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QUOTE(horns @ May 2 2020, 06:57 PM) the latest addition to my 64-key 60% reference build collection is a 64-key plateless tray mount build with gateron black. the motivation behind this build is that i would like to know if it has the ctrlx/c/v bugs for via, https://www.caniusevia.com/» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « [attachmentid=10481496]
specifications: 1. pcb - dz60 revision 3, usb-c variant; with via-enabled qmk firmware (64-key, as usual); 2. switches - 5-pin gateron black (ks-3); switch-filmed, and lubed with krytox gpl 203g2 (105 for springs); 3. stabilizers - clipped gmk screw-in pcb-mount stabilizers (2u), c3 r1 stabilizer for space bar (6.25u); lubed with home-brewed krytox gpl 205 + 105 mix; band-aid mod wtih ptfe tape; 4. case - a low-profile silver aluminum tray mount case, with no standoff in the middle section from ymdk; 5. others - 2 layers of anti-slip mat between pcb and case; 1mm nylon washers are placed on standoffs on each side of the case.
this is a build with flexes, and i like it. with touch typing, tuned gateron black works fine. .. and the answer to the bugs described above: well, this pcb is also working fine, without those bugs. Nice one horns. I thought with dedicated arrow keys is 65%?
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niakulah
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May 3 2020, 12:14 PM
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So I ended up ordering this: https://shopee.com.my/product/178155106/290...4759?smtt=0.0.94mm EVA foam. Medium soft. Hopefully will be able to compress it enough. I tested an item of 3.6mm thickness and it can slide through the gap with a bit of difficulty. So I only need it to compress .3mm or so. Oh god, writing this I just realised that's almost 10%.  We'll see. Maybe I can iron it or something. So I had some 2mm EVA craft foam lying around and did some experiments.
I think this is very much do-able. Worst case I have to order the 3mm and wasted a bit of cash on the 4mm.
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