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 [V31] Lowyat.Net Mechanical Keyboard Club

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niakulah
post Feb 19 2020, 10:21 AM

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QUOTE(GRexer @ Feb 19 2020, 10:04 AM)
Bent can still bend it back, broken pin barulah  cry.gif  tongue.gif
Lubing would almost always be worth it, but, because the switches you have are already in a built keyboard, the motivation to desolder the switches, lube them, then solder back is required.  laugh.gif
Any reason why you need the K-type tip? I have the Hakko Presto, while it's not my main soldering station (since it's not temperature controlled), I got the chisel tip for it which works pretty fine. The Kasadi 936 is a somewhat decent unit for hobbyist, unless you're intending to go pro and offer commissions(where I would say get the Hakko soldering station), I would say the Kasadi is good enough, especially when you pair it with original Hakko tips.
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Well in my post mortem of my previous dead board, I'm pretty sure I killed it due to bad desoldering technique. I'm a lot better at it now, now that I've learnt things like tinning my tip and adding solder if there's too little left to suck. But on my XD84Pro board, I still managed to lift 1 pad. One of those annoying half pads because the PCB supports multiple layouts.
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I believe that heating both pads and pulling out the switch while the solder is liquid, then sucking or wicking after the switch is removed, is a much safer way to desolder.

So the Kasadi is decent eh? It's cheaper than the Hakko Presto! Lol. I wonder if I can resell the Hakko Presto. Opened but still unused.
niakulah
post Feb 20 2020, 02:14 PM

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QUOTE(Noob Boy 1996 @ Feb 20 2020, 01:57 PM)
any back lighting on the keyboard? No RGB right?
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No and no. To be fair to horns, you didn't mention that as a requirement.
niakulah
post Feb 20 2020, 05:36 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Feb 18 2020, 05:43 PM)
So I done dumb dumb and bought the Hakko Presto and soldering tips, only to find that these tips do not fit this soldering iron.

I wanted to use a K type tip that is long enough to touch both switch pins at the same time so that you can easily remove them when desoldering. Turns out, there are NO K type tips for the Hakko Presto.  doh.gif

So what do you guys think?
1. Get the chisel tip for the Hakko Presto. Still way better than my current cheapo soldering iron. Both iron and tip will be Hakko! Spend another RM28. Give up on using a K type tip.
2. Get  this cheapo soldering iron that accepts 936 style K type tips that I already have. Also just another RM28.
3. Get a cheapish soldering station that accepts 936 style K type tips that I already have. Spend another RM85.
4. Don't cheap out and get the real deal. Spend another RM585
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KBDFans have not resumed shipping yet, on Discord they said 2 weeks from 11/2/2020, so I have some time to decide on soldering equipment.

Here comes a new contender:
https://www.lazada.com.my/products/ksger-t1....4d5d49fbOAY6aR

Using the supposedly vastly superior T12 tips which are directly heated instead of using a ceramic heating element. With a good review as well:
https://www.rchelicopterfun.com/t12-soldering-station.html

Decisions decisions. hmm.gif
niakulah
post Feb 20 2020, 05:43 PM

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QUOTE(Noob Boy 1996 @ Feb 20 2020, 03:53 PM)
Yeah sorry my bad. what about with backlit? any recommendation?
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Durgod Taurus 310 Nebula, Ducky One 2, Ducky Shine 7
niakulah
post Feb 25 2020, 05:35 PM

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Fresh off the boat from China! Don't worry I washed my hands. lol

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First, got myself a coiled USB-C cable, old school grey.

Shipment 1 of 3 for my new COSPAD. The aluminium case. It is heavy. Finishing is impressive. I'm seriously considering moving my main keyboard to this case too and make a matching set. If it weren't for the fact that they use different plates (I'd have to desolder ALL the switches), I would do it in a heartbeat.

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One thing I don't quite like about the case, the included pads are meant to cover the screws. This might mean I need to source spare pads if I plan to play around with different switches.
niakulah
post Feb 26 2020, 07:17 PM

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Sifus, do you normally put something in between plate and top for top mounted cases? A liquid gasket maybe?
niakulah
post Feb 26 2020, 09:42 PM

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QUOTE(horns @ Feb 26 2020, 09:30 PM)
don't quite get the idea, but i put eva foam between top plate and pcb, especially for aluminum top plate.
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Well the plate is screwed into the aluminium top case. The metal on metal can be a bit noisy no?

Was thinking of foam but don't know I can get something thin enough to fit, so I thought maybe one of those liquid gaskets? The kind you squeeze out of a tube, then it hardens into a gasket. Spread a thin coat on the plate or top case where the 2 pieces meet.
niakulah
post Feb 26 2020, 10:19 PM

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QUOTE(horns @ Feb 26 2020, 10:12 PM)
oh ok got it.

kbd67 mkii (with a top-mount brass plate) that i have doesn't make noise at those contact areas. however this is a good idea haha
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Oh so you don't put anything there and it's ok? Alright, I'll try it that way when my switches arrive. Kbdfans only resumed work on Saturday.
niakulah
post Feb 28 2020, 10:01 AM

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QUOTE(andrekua2 @ Feb 27 2020, 09:10 PM)
Guys,

Anyone played with programmable keyboard before? I'm interested to get a ydmk programmable numpad but wasn't sure about the flexibility of the programming.

The question that I want to ask is when you turn off the number lock, all keys become arrow keys except 5 and 0. Could you program key 5 to become F11 in this mode?

Thanks in advance.
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The YMDK is programmed by bootloader so you probably might want to check the documentation. Just got my COSPAD PCB yesterday which is programmed using TKG, so probably not the same as YMDK.

But for COSPAD/GHPAD via TKG it is not possible to do what you want. The num lock is a special layer within a layer. You can't change the function of 5 in this layer to anything else, nor any other number (e.g. 2 must be down arrow when num lock is off). But that doesn't stop you from doing it all in a different layer. So instead of using the num lock key, you use function keys to move between layers.
niakulah
post Mar 3 2020, 03:24 PM

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Just received my fix. Hnngghhh.
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Gateron-made KBDfans Aliaz 80g

This post has been edited by niakulah: Mar 3 2020, 03:34 PM
niakulah
post Mar 3 2020, 03:32 PM

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QUOTE(Lybrary @ Mar 3 2020, 02:36 PM)
After using lubed gat yellows for a while, I noticed something weird. Sometimes when at night when my room is cold from the AC, some switches get really bad spring sounds on the downstroke. I thought they were just a result of bad lubing or something with the switches but I noticed it comes and goes whenever the room gets cold (it returns to normal the next morning after the AC is off). Wonder if anyone else knows what's causing this or has experience with it. If it's important I lubed the yellows with krytox 205g0 but it was my first lube job so the lubed switches are probably inconsistent with some have thicker lube than others
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You lubed the springs with 205 as well? I thought you normally use oil (10X) for springs instead of grease (20X).

niakulah
post Mar 3 2020, 09:00 PM

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Build is underway. C3 stabs lube and band aid nodded.
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Too bad I don't have GMK Hyperfuse.
niakulah
post Mar 4 2020, 12:54 PM

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QUOTE(horns @ Mar 3 2020, 10:06 PM)
it looks nice smile.gif
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Thanks. Managed to finish it last night.
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niakulah
post Mar 4 2020, 05:08 PM

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QUOTE(horns @ Mar 4 2020, 05:00 PM)
very nice indeed.

plateless is ok imo, especially for smaller form factors. later i will build some more plateless builds too. the current one is built with lubed 5-pin gat yellow. to me, as long as a metal case is used, and filled with anti-slip mat between pcb and case, pcb flexes will be minimal.
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err....ooops. Sorry if I misled you.

That is not plateless. The previous pic with just the switches and stabs is just me getting the layout right. I didn't solder it like that. sweat.gif
niakulah
post Mar 4 2020, 11:05 PM

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QUOTE(Roddin @ Mar 4 2020, 07:26 PM)
bro, that's a really beautiful build. mad respects.  notworthy.gif
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Thank you! biggrin.gif
niakulah
post Mar 6 2020, 05:02 PM

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QUOTE(KnightFox @ Mar 6 2020, 04:03 PM)
user posted image
user posted image
Finally some upgrade to me Tecware Phantom Elite TKL
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Spring change?
niakulah
post Mar 7 2020, 02:14 PM

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QUOTE(KnightFox @ Mar 7 2020, 01:27 PM)
yip .... switch lubing and spring upgrade to some say insane 160g springs.... but i love it.... xD

in addition wanted to add foam on the back of the keyboard and change the stabliser to a different different sorts .... but it not easy as it seems as u need to bend some pin on the board to change the stabliser .... ended up .... let it rest for a while xD
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Whoa! I thought I was heavy handed. I enjoy my Aliaz with 80g. Had a 100g in a tester but thought it was a bit too much. But you do you man.

What kind of stabs did you get? I would have thought that tecware uses plate mount stabs that should be quite easy to remove?
niakulah
post Mar 11 2020, 07:16 AM

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GMK WOB is back for the low low price(for a GMK) of USD118 to MY.
https://drop.com/buy/gmk-white-on-black-cus...sh_notification

Wish it was BOW though. Don't like how obvious shine can be on black.
niakulah
post Mar 11 2020, 11:56 AM

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QUOTE(horns @ Mar 11 2020, 09:44 AM)
it's a base set with a better price to experience gmk's qualities.

first of all, key shine is a common thing. it just take longer time to build up for pbt compared to abs. (there are people who can make new pbt caps shine in a week or two) even though gmk sets, most probably due to additional surface treatment, builds key shine at a relatively slower rate, eventually they will have that.

key shine is not my concern anymore. their effects on typing experience (e.g. profile, typing feel, sound profile) have take over in terms of priority.
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Shine is inevitable. Unless you can make it uniform on all keys, shine on black is particularly ugly to me. That's why I would have preferred it to be BOW instead of WOB.

Of course some of my keys will always shine - my stainless steel arrow keys. Lol.
niakulah
post Mar 13 2020, 12:19 PM

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I was just taking off all my keycaps on the xd24 cospad to see how in the world I am getting a subtle backlight even with all LEDs on the bottom of the PCB. Turns out it's because the tempered glass/stalinite bottom of the case reflect quite a bit of light back up. That is the main difference with my main board xd84 pro which is in a full plastic case.

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Here I was admiring my pretty pink and purple board when I get an email from zfrontier that says they're releasing stock for GMK Vaporwave (among others) midnight tonight!

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Is this fate? RIP wallet.

This post has been edited by niakulah: Mar 13 2020, 12:20 PM

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