Taobao during 12.12 sales.

oic, I saw you wrote tested in shop, so I thought you bought from shop

a note on keep your local copy of qmk_firmware source tree updated via git and msys2:

chokkan's simple how-to will give you the option to keep a copy of your own custom key maps at github, and at the same time keep everything synchronized with qmk_firmware's master source tree, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oj9UBR1eW6I

for me i just choose to keeping qmk_firmware's source tree updated only. i keep my custom key maps archived in another directory, only copy them into the source tree when i need them. you do not need to create a github account for this.

it involves 2 parts:

a. create a local copy of source tree (just do this once)
1. create a working directory in your pc, say d:\cfgs\qmk\
2. run msys2 command prompt and navigate to that working directory: cd /d/cfgs/qmk
3. type command: git clone https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware.git
4. when it's done, navigate into the source directory: cd /d/cfgs/qmk/qmk_firmware
5. type the following command to set up the upstream: git remote add -t master -m master upstream https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware

with the above set up, now you can proceed with maintaining the local copy.

b. synchronize the source tree to its latest from github (repeat this when you want to):
1. run msys2 command prompt and navigate to the qmk_firmware's source tree: cd /d/cfgs/qmk/qmk_firmware
2. use the following to check changes: git fetch upstream
3. if there are updates, use the following to download the changes: git merge upstream
4. you will be asked to add a note opened in vim; just press esc key once, then type

CODE

:wq

to exit vim ( means write/save and quit/exit vim)


This post has been edited by horns: Dec 19 2018, 03:28 PM

Hi all sifus here,

Im new to mechanical keyboard and just got myself a ducky one . However, the lighting doesnt work when press FN + F10. Did I miss out something?

Thank you.

double post sorry

This post has been edited by TKW-: Dec 22 2018, 08:47 AM

no idea. maybe you should reset everything to defaults firs then see if it's working. the user manual is at https://www.duckychannel.com.tw/page-en/ducky-one/ (scroll down until the end there is a link to it)

Hi, does anyone here know where to buy lubricants for Topre switches? I'm planning to lub my HHKB keeb as i felt abit of frictions when the keys move. I lived in Klang Valley, but it seems like it's quite difficult to get by. I saw a groupbuy topic on Reddit ended 6 months ago though.

I heard Tribosys Switch Lubricant is good, but i'm just googling around, and absolutely no where near knowing what to do. Any sifu here can guide me on this?

Many thanks!

So during Black Friday I ordered a KBD4x kit from KBDfans, together with a set of MDA Big Bang and Kailh Box Red. Super happy with it.

Enjoice the picture.

you can pm quovadis123 for krytox 105/205. (or if you wanna have something like tribosys 3204, maybe 104 also) for easy applications, i think you should go for 10x (oil). get a brush and starting lubing hehe

on how to lube topre switches, just check out videos at youtube. there are a bunch of them.

nice

how are your key maps like? or just using defaults?

Hi, one of my k70 lux rgb key caps just broke down out of nowhere, its the "P" key, is there anywhere i can get a replacement or suggestions of the best that fit to replace it? single or a complete set is fine. could use it for future backups.

you can look it up at taobao or aliexpress for genuine corsair's cap sets. gaming fonts are unique so whatever you replace it with will make it look awkward.

alternatively as permanent solution, you should get a set of double-shot thick pbt (1.5mm) from corsair instead.

So I recently messed up my keyboard (HyperX Alloy FPS) and I broke one of the switch, I contacted support just in case I am able to get a RMA but it's a no from them. So right now, I just want to ask. Is there any place around KL that sell replacement Cherry MX switches? I can't order online because of some payment issue regarding my bank account.

if u use facebook, find for a guy name Evum Seu
dunno weather he is here or not.
he is base in cheras.
or maybe others here oso can offer help.

ps; dont rage on kibod next time

sauce:
https://techreport.com/review/34296/topre-r...yboard-reviewed



This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Dec 30 2018, 07:38 PM

for those who like topre they will appreciate it. it's one of the vast options in mechanical keyboard switches

these are concise notes for fellow beginners who are interested in switch lubing, but not sure how and where to start. just remember that like anything in mkb modding, it's all about personal preferences. as long as you like the outcomes, it's all good.

the main purpose of switch lubing is to make switches relatively smooth when you type on them. for instance, most stock switches, e.g. cherry mx switches, are scratchy when they are new. (i.e. the sandy feel when keys travel from top to bottom, and vice versa) to improve smoothness, lubes are applied at various contact areas in a switch to get rid of frictions. however, depending on the type of lubes, and amount applied, this also brings changes in typing feels and sound.

i hope the following can give better ideas on selection of lubes, and how much to apply them on your switches. still, it's better to experiment first hand with a few, before you apply them to the rest of them.

1. thick vs. thin lubes.
- the terms 'thick' and 'thin' are used to refer to viscosity of oil or grease. thick means high viscosity (e.g. to me it's krytox gpl 105/205 and above), while thin means low viscosity (e.g. krytox gpl 103/203; singer oil)
- if you were to preserve as much as the original typing feels and sound, use thin lubes. thick lubes will change typing feels and sound considerably, but it's really effective for sound dampening.

2. oil vs. grease.
- for relatively easier applications, use oil. however this doesn't mean it's very hard to apply grease on switches, e.g. for low-viscosity grease like 203, it's as easy as oil. as usual, practice makes perfect.
- use oil paint brush to control the amount applied.
- some lubes can be mixed safely, e.g. krytox gpl. the mixtures can achieve certain viscosity that you want (103/107), or to make grease easier to apply (e.g. 105/205)

3. less vs. more.
- in general, less is more.
- excess can cause lube fart, and 'stickiness' when you type.

4. cheap vs. expensive.
- this usually translates to the shelf life of a particular lube. usually cheaper lubes will cost much less (e.g. super lube grease, singer oil), but its shelf life is also way shorter than expensive ones (e.g. krytox gpl)
- cheap lubes sometimes also leave residues behind when they wear off. (e.g. super lube grease will leave white residue behind) however, imo it's easy to clean them up.
- this doesn't mean cheap lubes are bad choices (e.g. super lube grease or singer oil are very economical) it depends on options that allow you to reapply them if necessary. (especially when the lubing effects are worn off) if you have a modular board, or permanent builds that support switch top removal, or plateless, you can still opt for cheap lubes.

5. unlubed vs. prelubed switches.
- these days there are also prelubed switches, e.g. kailh box or pro switches. they're smooth by default. additional lubing is pointless.
- for these prelubed switches, the only part that requires lubing is their springs, if you wanted to bring down the noise level. (usually i use 105 for this)

6. always use plastic-safe lubes to avoid damaging your switches.

all in all, switch lubing is a task that requires patience. however with a good set of tools (e.g. compatible switch openers, good-quality oil paint brush), you can speed up the process considerably. imo it's worth the efforts.

edit:

as for the amount that you should get, usually 5ml is more than sufficient for a full-sized board, leaving you a little extra. also note that i use krytox gpl series as reference most of the times, mainly because the series consists of oil and grease with different viscosity, and they are relatively easier to obtain than before.

imo the minimum is to get 103/203 (thin), and 105/205 (thick), this allows you to get better ideas on how viscosity affecting application, typing feels and sound.


This post has been edited by horns: Jan 6 2019, 06:58 PM

am using Logitech G Pro Keyboard... romer G like brown switch.. hardly tell the different....

it's because we are not only looking at that part when we check out a keyboard. besides typing feels, there are other details that we also take into considerations:

1. compatibility with cherry mx style stems. this is because we intend to replace stock key caps with our own. romer-g switches have incompatible stems;
2. key layouts, especially the bottom row (the same row with space bar). most of the times, this bottom row has some odd-sized key caps. this also means the board is incompatible with key caps that are made based on keys that are from standard bottom row. here are examples of non-standard layouts, http://www.maxkeyboard.com/mechanical-keyc...size-chart.html

other than that we also look for more specific features (just additional preferences), e.g.
1. space bar and modifier stabilizers, i.e. costar or cherry;
2. key cap plastics (pbt or abs);
3. usb-type c or mini-usb ports if it supports detachable cables.

i see.. thanks for the input... i came to understand that.. romer-g is not for everyone.. some people may find it not that it is not that comfortable... typing feel on this keyboard so far good.. love it.. in the end i bought it....

It's really up to personal preference. And Romer-G switch already EOL, since Logitech already abandon ship for this switch.
However, after market still have this switch part if your switch really broken in the future.

MKB can last so long because of the part availability, repairability.