Ditch that bike! Haha. The frame is heavy, tyres also heavy.

Last ride i did on 2017, that heavy bike is just as slow the as the group it rides with (mtb and rb). Can only keep up with the group pace which is only around 30kmh.

I hate that bike because it basically can climb any hill that i encounter with so far. But the thing that i hate most about the dahon speed is, it is so damn comfy that i had to ride it everyday, no matter how short the distance is, and caused me to neglect my other bikes.

here is when it make me climb those dragonbacks.


This post has been edited by fatani: Jan 4 2018, 04:50 PM

cigna i already tested the folds. never test rode it. the fold is not as neat as the B. but least to say, it really is not my cup of tea, even if it's a B copy.

yes, i think for 20", it's easier to put in the car, while the 16" and 18", it fold even smaller making it much easier to bring it on a bus or train. even better if it's llighter too, since we need to carry it around from station to station. 13kgs bike, think i'll get a good arms workout too..

This post has been edited by fatani: Jan 4 2018, 05:01 PM

hi sifu. mind sharing me what brand is this repair stand that u using?

thanks sifu. i think i can get that same stand for rm250 or less in shopee. was wondering how's the quality, especially the clamp. since it's been holding up to your usage for a few years, i think it should be good enough. actually i already have 3 floor stands (hub and chainstay stand) but i think it would be easier and less sakit pinggang by doing those maintenance works on a proper bike stand. the main reason im thinking to get one is because the nearest lbs from me is about 40km away. so, for simple maintenance, i think i'll try to learn and DIY. lots of useful and helpful online videos nowadays. and also i can outsource the parts online if too lazy to go lbs. and in the long run, i think it's cost saving too (DIY maintenance), since i have also have MTB, which i think needs more frequent maintenance, due to offroading.

TBH i am surprised to hear this, from a few replies similarly. on the contrary, 11,12,13 is my most utilised range (sometimes i wish i had a 10 ), and with 53t most of the time. rarely used past 15t or 39t chainring, unless for the occasional very slopey climb. even when my energy level drops, my comfort zone is still with the big chainring. yes, i do hi cadence as well from time to time, but i dont think my lung is suited for it. my comfortable cadence (the zone where the level of fatigue can be delayed a lot) is around 60-70ish. and i am by no means a super fit person. only ride once or twice a week only. i guess different body have different level of adaptabilities. just do whatever works best for you.

Woah, that's a pretty 'low' cage you got there sifu. I'd freak out if i got similar setting on mine. I wonder how will the hanger hold up. Interesting stuff!

What about 4600 shifter + 4700 rd. Any experience?

That is why for me, having a chest strap HRM is such an important feature. So that i can monitor my safe heart rate limit during cycling. Don't overpush yourself more than your body can handle. Know your limits.

Due to the location of the sensor, wrist sensor data is not as reliable a chest strap (even the hi end one).Many variables affects the reading. It may be good for running though. But i dont think it'll provide accurate data for fitness or cycling, due to a lot of movement on the wrist. Also, sweat also will kacau sensor too.

haha.. i lol when u wrote about those who think that chest strap are heavy

yes, i agree ken. different people have different requirements. for me, on the contrary to your usage, when i ride hard enough, that is when i pay most attention to the heart rate data. im particular not to over exceed my heart rate limit (max heart rate) when i push the gas. doing that way, i can maintain to pedal at faster speed for a longer period of time, and aware of when i have to slow down. hopefully that way, i can avoid being another statistic of the fallen cyclist. hopefully lah.

isnt cardio also related to heart rate exercise? AFAIK we need to reach certain heart rate zone to get the most effective result of our cardio workout. HIIT also focuses on certain heart rate zone.

+- 5BPM is not that much of a difference. but, if for someone like me, depending on the HRM to show the current data of max hr during riding, +-5BPM is a lot! . for example, max heart rate is 180bpm. device A shows 180bpm, device B shows 175 and device C shows 185bpm (let's say B and C is the +-5bpm). on B, I'll run out of breath because i over exceed my max without knowing (of course by 'feel' sure know you're bonk! ), and on C, i'll be wondering why I still have the gas when i over exceed 5bpm of my max. to be honest, i'll run out of breath even i over exceed 1 or 2 bpm of my max hr, let alone 5bpm.

and for this reason alone, for cycling, im opinionated that chest heart strap works better than wrist sensor. but if for tracking fitness, any fitness tracker with a descent wrist sensor will do the job just fine. it really depends on the priorities on what are you going to use it for.

yes, heart rate differ from person to person, and age as well. max heart rate can be tested at the lab, or for me, i just follow the max heart rate test already pre loaded factory setup on my 530. can do it at home on a trainer or stationary bike. got LTHR, MHR, FTP test as well. how accurate is the test, i dont know. but it seems the numbers are working fine for me.

about the heart rate attack, maybe it's my ignorance also. but, i try to take the precaution step. prevention is better than cure. hopefully those hr data would provide early warning signs before the attack. hopefully lah

poor stand. now already yellow

What??

No!!!!

I just upgraded my d8 with those setting. Bike still at lbs. Hopefully my mech friend can produce some wonders with it.

Wishful thinking.😅

This post has been edited by fatani: Feb 5 2018, 11:36 PM

Got my bike tonight. Ask help from a dear friend to take the bike from lbs and bring it to tonight's ride. And Guess what? You're right. It doesnt shift smoothly. Right from the start, it all shift alright, except for the 11t, which is the one cog that i use a lot! Tune on the spot, it goes down to 11t but jumping up and down at the 6th and 7th cog. At least it's usable for tonite's ride. I dont use those cogs anyway for the kind of terrain that we were riding.

Anyhow, when i got back home, i did some more tuning. The last effort for tonite, i manage to get the chain rolling up and down, except for the 9th cog(it's 11-25 cassette, so i guess it's the 23t cog). I know i dont use all the gears, but at least im expecting all of them to be working in order.

Maybe i'll send it back again to my mech later on. Im still hopeful that it'll work out well in the end, otherwise i'll have to make do with current setup, or, either get another compatible rd or the 4700 shifter.

Sent it back today. I was intentionally trying to get the flatbar 4700 shifter, but got no stock. So, rd has to go. The problem is, there's also no new stock for 4600 rd. So tried it with 5700, and 6700 rd. Surprisingly, same problem. Left the bike at lbs, and went home.

Just now, my mech friend sent me a video of it working properly. Guess what's the rd? It's a freaking Altus. Weird huh? That's what we think too.

In the end, the solution is not that expensive. Phew!

So it means that i have an almost brand new 4700 to let go. If anyone is interested, just let me know.



This post has been edited by fatani: Feb 9 2018, 08:33 PM

I know right?
Supposedly it should be working well with those derailleurs (5700,6700). But it didnt, at least in my case. Well, im glad it's sorted out. And altus is just too damn cheap anyway. I dont mind, as long as it works.

Actually, my TRS bike use the combination of slr780 and 5701 rd. It still doesnt shift smoothly on the 13t. My friend use the same setup, but with 6700 rd, and his setup doesnt have any shifting problem. So, i dunno lah. Shimano stated that slr780 is compatible with 5701, but it does not do the job well for me.

I have a question to all sifus.

My dahon rear hub is starting to make noise. Actually long time edi that noise, but i ignored. So most probably the hub is starting to kaput.

The questions is, is there any chance for that hub can be repaired? Let's say i re-grease it or something.

And pennywise, would it be worth it to change only the hub, or just go buy a new wheelset instead? Actually, i still dont really know what's the hub advantage other than making loud sound..hehe. im starting to like the silence when riding that dahon.

The sound is almost like when bb kong. It started to sound 'ktak ktak' when i put on some force on the pedal. Im sure it's not the bb, because i changed the bb twice, with the latest is the hollowtech and the sound still exist. Upon inspection, My mech said it's the hub that's the culprit. I can get the 20/28 novatech hub from lbs, but the price is around rm300++, which i think is almost equivalent to a new litepro wheelset, if labour cost is added up. Taobao or AliExpress, of course can get cheaper. So, instead of pulling the plug for a replacement, im now trying to do a little rescue, if possible, because i kinda like the stock dahon wheelset.

for your ref . so it's confirmed. the rear hub really is the main culprit.


i didnt open the hub. lack of tools. my toolbox only provide max size 16 cone wrench. i got a pedal wrench size 17, but i still have no clue how to clamp the weird shaped bottom nut.



somehow, my gut feeling is telling me that this hub is beyond saving, but still usable. just have to bear with that annoying sound.

thanks for the link ken. but somehow i couldn't open it. nevertheless, lot's of useful videos online nowadays