all these 16" wheel makes me tergoda goda...

the kojak is 32 height where marathon racer is 34. my friend try to fit marathon racer 349 to his zephyr and the rear tyre stuck a bit with rear triangle (seatube). another option is joseph kosac tyre is 25.

i cant find any cheap kenda tyre. if u can read on ur tyre (and ur tyre height profile) what model it is, please let me know.

problem is the price
kojak is around rm75 (here rm65 at rodalink)
marathon racer is rm135
joseph kosac is rm150

thats why i plan to find some cheap tyre for my other friends to convert from 305 to 349

dont scare for rain lah bro. rain wont rust ur frame unless u had chipped/paint problem. as long after the rain u wash and wipe then it wont be a problem. been using speed p8 (chromoly frame) for quite sometime (touring and so on) and had ride under bad weather (heavy rain also) still no rust until now..

i do had problem with that bro. if before ride got rain, off coz i would cancel the ride and no mood to ride. and if the rain stop, i will use bike with rear fender such as my dahon speed p8..

goda u more

Let me go back and look for the label.
Surprisingly the kojak is not too expensive tho. RM65 each mean Rm130 for a pair, quite a good price.

Yea my roadbike is crmo and i don care about the rain. Parcel arrive yesterday and spend sometime to tune the index shifting and half way rain. segan abit. Tonight gonna test hehehe

hahaha... for kampung feel like ipoh rm65 is pricey lor..
scouting for tyre around rm25-35 and thats why im looking for any kenda tyre for it.

i've been using kenda 1.2 tyre on my previous setup 305 wheels. surprisingly, the performance not bad at all. same goes to kenda kriterium and kenda kotender (ettige gave me).. the drawback of both tyre is soft wall.after 500km better careful and ready to change another set.

I think mine came with this 1, based on the threading and the price.
https://world.taobao.com/item/543997422853....bucket=4#detail

True that RM65 still at the high side if compare to cheaper brand. I got quote extra 200RMB if want KOJAK and decided to stay with kenda, gonna be my santai ride bike and pasar malam bike. The only downside is doesnt look as good as kojak la...

hahaha..if u want to upgrade in the future, please pm me ur old tyre

saw this one, still 34 profile. a bit high, but since i saw u can use it, maybe no problem with it.still, need to try with zephyr coz gust dont have seat stay.. problem before like i said already sangkut at seatstay with marathon racer

For foldie, how do we know if the size of the bike match body height?

Except for Dahon Dash, most if not all foldies are one size fits all. Variations and suitability is just adjusting the front handlebar height (some newbies rides like using monkey bar ) , adjusting the height of the seat post (foldies seat post are extra long, most of them 600mm long and bigger diameter for strength). Foldies are not meant for stability, therefore the base length is not long. For bicycles, the longer the wheel base the more stable the ride. But foldies is good for 40km/h or so though. The problem with foldies is the maximum weight limitations. Most of them are limited to han dle105 kilos rider, except the new Dahon Curl which is rated 130 kilos maximum. Then again, this is the guaranteed limits and usually the manufacturer under rate their limits for safety factors. Not that you going to downhill with the foldie anyway.

Fenders are essential IMHO. In the wet, they keep dirty splash away from the Crankset and chain. In the dry, it keep debris away from my feet.
I will install chainboard if I can get hold of a suitable one at reasonsnable price. Keep the chain and hub bearing lubricant in place longer in the wet.
But please stay away from thunder and lightning. Rain water won't kill but lightning will.
As for soft side wall tires. Soft side wall tires = supple tires. The are more comfy and lower rolling resistance. Harder tires always more puncture resistance. So protection and suppleness are opposing qualities, we just has to compromise between the 2. (Don't worry about sidewall thickness too much, unless you intentinally ride on the side all the time)

This post has been edited by KenC: Sep 15 2017, 10:51 PM

I am on a year long experiment on rolling resistance. My 451 is on a pair of @RM45 Kenda Kwick Roller Sport (20x1-3/8 or 451x35) thin sidewall and supposedly low rolling resistance supple tires. My 650A (26x1-3/8, EA3) it's actually 590x35 are a pair of @RM19 Foong Leong Rubber becha tires. Both did over 2000km, Kenda has a few punctures and eventually a burst rear tire. The FKR no puncture, no damages.
I can always ride faster on my 451 than 650A, and more comfortable too. 2kmh is the difference at various level of finess. Disputing the myth of bigger wheels are faster.
Next I will swap the 650A to 700c with hard Kenda orange color 622x25c and see if narrower tire is faster or slower when both are high rolling resistance tires.
After that I will change to some supple 622x28c tires to confirm the result.
The 650A has shimano 105 hubs 9 speed free hub; the 451 also has cup and cone hubs but they are the cheap under RM20 8 speed freewheel BMX hubs.
Oh yes, not forgetting the 451 is 15kg and the 650A is 13kg. Another myth busted, lighter bikes are not necessarily faster.

This post has been edited by KenC: Sep 16 2017, 06:01 AM

Thanks for the info

Hi, I have just got a used Dahon Eco C7 foldie with 20"x1.5" rims, on a stock 20x1.75 tyres. Plan to replace those tyres as its probably been there since 2013-14.
Can the rim fit a Schwalbe Marathon Racer 20x1.50 tyre instead?

Thx.

The Schwalbe Racer is 1.5" and it don't last as long as the Marathon Plus or Supreme. Is it because of the treads? No worries, the Supreme and the Plus is pretty good too and the rolling resistance , I think the Supreme is much better with less treads. If you read through a website, actually foldie or roadies tires are too narrow to actually make a difference in tread patterns. Most of the time, just a narrow part of the whole width is actually in contact with the tarmac, so the treads makes no difference, unless you are talking about wider tires like the Big Apple or the Maxxis DTH. More important is the rubber compounds that makes the tires. Even the bald Kojak sticks to the tarmac but the compound is sticky when hot.

I think the original rims should be able to handle all three models of the Marathons though. But the 1.5" tires on the 1.5 wide rims will lower the bike just a bit....just a bit.

Just thought of getting something with least rolling resistance that can fit into the rim. Btw, Is there any shop in KL/PJ area currently having promos? Might want to replace it next weekend perhaps.
Another thing, if I were to replace my existing stock 7 speed freewheel (14-28t) to 11-32t, can I still use existing chains or RD cage plate? Alternatively, is to replace the stock crankset with minimum of two or three chainrings. I figured my 9yr old kid might have issues going up hills for those long rides with existing stock setup.
If the upgrades cost more than RM500, I might consider getting another foldie instead and keeping the C7 for myself.


Thx.

By far nobody cares about proper rim width for various tyre width cos one way or another you can always get them fitted, if it turn out bad, always blame the tyre.

If you are Nick picking like me, the tires relies on the rim width to maintain it's shape, the shape intended by the designer at least, too narrow you are squeezing it, too wide it will fall out.

Following is a table from a wheel rim maker… if you are interested.



As for tire threads, other than mud path, I mean wet soak sticky mud. No threads are required, you won't hydroplane at the speed of bicycle… you need rubber thickness for wear and tear AND puncture protection. There is another catch, thinner rubber = softer, softer= suppleness = lower rolling resistance; More rubber = better puncture protection = higher rolling resistance.

If you want comfy, reduce your pressure; If you want speed, increase the pressure, you can't have comfort and speed at the same time , gotta compromise somewhere. BUT if you insist on both, buy a motorbike.

Another note, too little pressure and you will get puncture more often… Please don't ask me how I know…

If all else are equal, wider tire = more air = more cushioning effect.
As smaller diameter wheels are inherently harsher ride, wider tires are more appropriate, said Dr. Alex Moulton. He also advocated high pressure low resistance supple tire. Mind you in the 50s, high pressure means higher than 50psi.

This post has been edited by KenC: Sep 17 2017, 04:46 AM

If you can find 7 speed 11-32t freewheel cogset, you are in luck! You may/may not have to lengthen your chain. You RD could most probly still work. But u r most likely to find 14-34t
Won't cost you more than 150
Changing to double chainring will cost you a bit more. you need new Crankset, new Front Derailleur , new front derailleur hanger and left shifter, will get you in the 500 ballpark either if you use used parts and don't go for the "finest" components.
Another alternative is to change to 8-speed 11-32t(or 34t). Freewheel cogset, 8 speed right shifter , under 200 kowtim.

Hi,
Few things come to mind, as the existing stock hubs are non-QR. might be an option to just that and upgrade to 8 speed cassette. Do you think the stock rims can fit the cassette?

Thx.

There's no point using the old rims if you want to change the hubs. The original 7 speed wheelset is single layer. If possible, get double layered rims. If price is a factor, you can get the WTB 20 inch wheelset which is around 300 bucks only. I don't know if it is still in the market though. The non QR hubs can be converted to QRs. The shaft used in the non QR are solid but hollow ones can be found in most local bike shops. The shafts are cheap and the rear ones needs no further modifications, just dismantle the original and transfer the components on the new hollow shaft but the front ones needs to be sawn off though as Dahons are only 73 mm wide and most front shafts are 100 mm. Another problem is......... I don't know if you can find 73 mm QRs.

PM me if you want an 8,9 or 10 speed wheelset. I am thinking of changing mine anyway. That is , if you are interested lah!

The most cost effective upgrade to 9/10/11 speed is to change wheelset... usually we change in a pair.
If you scourge hard enough and patient enough you will find a pair you want. Of course you can always buyall the "finest" wheelset around.
If you want cheap, sell your Dahon and buy a "lesser" brand. You may even get a 200-300 extra in your pocket.


This post has been edited by KenC: Sep 18 2017, 06:33 AM