What kind of wall do you have?
Brick wall (clay or sand brick) = any >500W hammer drill will do (bosch GSB10RE). This will NOT work well for concrete wall.
Concrete wall (RC wall/AAC brick) = investment in rotary hammer is needed (bosch GBH2-24, Makita HR2470 or any other rotary hammer using SDS+ drill bit) else you will struggle 10 mins per wall plug hole - rotary hammer can do in 10 seconds

The above are corded (wired) models.

If you wanna do cordless u need to invest in battery and charger.
Nowadays cordless tools are cheap (comparable with wired models prices) if don't count the batt and charger price.

Cordless drill+driver for brick wall onlyGSB180-Li, will work great for drilling wall plug and as cordless screwdriver.
Around 180-220 for tool only, some c/w carrying case some without - when you shop on pee pee

Cordless rotary hammer for concrete wall GBH180-Li around 350 for tool only

It depends.. I also like to take up same building (that I stay in) punya small job like hanging picture frame wall plug drilling coz almost every wall is concrete/AAC block A couple jobs paid off the GBH 180-LI' you recommended me earlier on

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jun 29 2020, 11:26 PM

Some condo very tight timeline, only can drill within 9am-1pm so every minute saved goes a long way to complete the job in time

On par with Bosch level but this one is expensive due to American branding and shipping involved. Bosch can be cheaper due to having more production factories and higher sales volume (in MY).

Is the recipient starting off with DIY work? or already has a set of tools on hand?

Out of curiosity, does a table saw make much more noise vs a circular saw?

Should be okay.. if on good terms w the neighbour just heads-up them I'mma be making some noise on this date this time so they can go out for food or something
People tend to be less if pre-informed.

IMO grinder noise on concrete can be a problem but wood cutting shouldn't take long for the noisy part.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jul 2 2020, 09:49 PM

for 12V tool u can buy the bosch 12V box
https://www.lazada.com.my/products/32cm-x-2....0__75063,67213

or
https://www.lazada.com.my/products/lomvum-c...383,38009,67213

When buying wired drills, usually it comes with a nice hard plastic case.

Cordless drill and rotary hammer must buy the version with hard plastic case. Some are cheaper but it comes with a rather useless cardboard box/soft tool bag/no box editions especially for solo unit.
Ditto for grinder, jigsaw, circular saw, usually just comes with cardboard box.

There are a few sizes of that hard plastic case. 12V box only fits 12V stuff so unless u have a GSR120 or just want it for drill bit/screw storage its a bit too cute to be used.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jul 9 2020, 05:42 PM

First u must decide the tool.
18V drill driver can get GSB (with light duty Bang "impact" function) or GSR (reversible, no bang aka no impact mode)
then see if get whole set or piecemeal (batt+charger+solo tool) is cheaper.. prices vary also if u include the hard case

18V rotary hammer for me it was cheaper to order batt+charger+solo tool w/hard case from 3 different sellers than buying from one source in a set

Metal no issue. But where does the metal frame mount to - concrete wall?
Concrete/AAC is best using rotary hammer (using SDS chuck).
Basic impact drill w hammer (using round drill bit) will work fine for sand/clay bricks only.

2-24 corded or GBH 180-LI Cordless Rotary Hammer else with non-rotary impact drill you will spend 5-10 min per wall plug hole

Concrete bro SDS rotary hammer =/= hammer drill

Technically about the same cost after add 2nd battery 4AH to match the worx set, but if he has existing 18V batt n charger then no need invest new system again as bare tool should be 350-400 (nowadays also brushless for GBH180-LI) - see the BL sticker at bottom of tool




This post has been edited by ceo684: Aug 13 2020, 11:08 AM

U will need sth like this (https://www.lazada.com.my/products/hitachi-chuck-adaptor-13mm-12inch-401506-chuck-adaptor-sds-plus-402561-i437422873-s642724368.html?spm=a2o4k.seller.list.1.46371000VXcz0V&mp=1) to mount the core bit if its round shank.

If core bit shank is using SDS+ no need adaptor

Small qty CSM hardware.. they stock cheese head and countersunk types

If you need in bulk qty CSM or larger hardware shops should have it

Usually the normal round drill bit will be either HSS or tile bit.. rest of it (concrete drilling) I use SDS bits so it fits perfectly. Round ones I use the GSR180 only coz tile bit max 500 rpm so no need powerful machine

More than enough, since you are drilling 12mm in concrete. These (2-26) output 3J force.
DFR better than DRE for all purpose bit selection.

I've successfully drilled M10 (10mm) sleeve anchor holes in concrete wall too using the 2-24 (output of 2.7J) and also chiselled out trenches using 20mm chisel, works fine.

Yes BL traditionally was more expensive but BL ones nowadays due to economy of scale have made their way as kinda standard feature.. like ABS for cars when first started is not common.. now almost all new cars have it

If landed one technically no restrictions (unless got area rules) so as long as you dont do it too early should be ok la..personally for me afternoon time should be ok... just not 7am on weekend.. just heads up next doors that on sat afternoon or so i wanna do some wood work so they can plan to go out for lunch etc..

Under normal consumer use BL or brushed also won't wear out that fast. Carbon brushes are common spare parts, for bosch, makita easily ordered online or major dealers.

Same, somehow I started with corded rotary hammer, then bought cordless rotary hammer coz if cut power (for electrical installation) easier, then as rotary hammer too powerful and no torque control it strips screw heads so easier to get cordless drill driver.

The cordless rotary works fine for small wall plugs.. if i drill bigger hole for sleeve anchor like 10mm ones I will prefer the corded one coz more force (2.7J vs 1.7J) coz the construction of the concrete wall sometimes kena hard stone one.

Best to get the right tool for the job, saves a lot of time especially when condo only limited noisemaking hrs (9am-1pm) so for me easier to drill with rotary hammer, drills in seconds rather than 5-10min per hole. Usually I will plan to drill all the holes first then only install the screws last coz that part not critical (silent)

This post has been edited by ceo684: Aug 17 2020, 11:11 AM

The major advantage is that they are open on Sat & Sun, for 20-50 pcs still cheap enough;
whereas the cheaper places don't open on weekend, some hardware shop does carry but only Sat, and you must know the right places to go;
and for consumer use they sell small packs (not MOQ 1000 pcs screws)

Your wall is made of concrete/AAC blocks (usually condos) or clay/sand bricks (usually older landed)

good for brick wall only, not good for concrete, you take 5-10 mins per hole security will come and check on you.

The hole need to match your screw size and wall plug size. typically 5.5mm or 6.0mm. Wood better.

Plastic one easy to pull out whilst wood one expands like a faux sleeve anchor and gives a stronger bite.

GSR = R for reversible
GSB = B for bang (impact function)

the hammer mode is weak and only for brick walls. Rotary hammer strongly recommended for concrete wall.

How to tell the difference?

Rotary hammer usually use SDS+ (slotted) drill bits.
Spec sheet will indicate impact energy in Joules.
Starts from 149 for corded no name ones, 3xx for corded stanley SHR263, around 4xx for bosch GBH180-LI or 2-24/makita HR2470/hitachi [tool only for cordless - no battery/corded]. Hitachi one only rm345 hitachi rotary hammer

Impact drill/"drill w/hammer mode" stuff usually much cheaper (from 40 to 300 bucks) and use round shank bits. Spec sheet will say many tens of thousands of bpm (beats per minute).
18V tools are more useful coz more powerful, but if you're only using the drill driver for LIGHT DUTY wood/metal/small wall plug on brick walls, you can consider 12V coz its lighter.

Can also consider getting one corded rotary hammer [value for money powerful for concrete] + one cordless drill driver [for use as cordless screwdriver].

This post has been edited by ceo684: Aug 19 2020, 04:25 PM

Hmmm I actually seldom use the drill driver more than setting 5.
90% of the time just gentle screwing at minimum setting 1 will do. It preserves the screw heads

From your description I think you need to look into impact hammer for high torque application but Bosch not really the best for impact driver. Can check out youtube reviews, those are more practical comparison.

Hahaha the best tool in my books is still the drill driver. Makes screwing fittings like Ikea wood table top effortless.

I did look at makita before picking Bosch. However the makita rotary hammer alone, the price for solo tool is already expensive (680 for DHR171Z from listing on Shopee). Add battery and charger already close to 1k+ I guess. That price can buy a Bosch GBH180Li with 4AH standard battery (exclude charger). So I spent 395+280+102 (solo tool,4AH procore,fast charger) = 777 in total for a working set. Once I had the batt and charger then just adding solo tools is easy, so got the drill driver solo tool for 230 as well.

Tiles are very hard, they need to be scraped off bit by bit using tile bit (run in normal mode at slow speed without impact). Hard but brittle, so do not use impact, else the tile can crack.
This is where the GSB120 excels, use on first gear only when using tile bit. It will take around 5 mins to scrape through one hole. Slow speed and dip dip the bit in water will prolong the lifespan for tile bit.

Usually I will use the CYL-9 from bosch: https://shopee.com.my/Bosch-CYL-9-Ceramic-E...4764.2342546053
If you have many tile holes to be drilled then can get a china bit bulk pack, they're much cheaper than bosch ones as tile bits wear out pretty fast: https://shopee.com.my/10pcs-Drill-Bit-Glass...6352.2160941573

Once you go through the tile then you can continue hammer mode on the wall bricks with standard masonry bit. Cheap one and expensive one works almost the same for the round shank type of masonry bit. Masonry bit you can use either 1st or 2nd gear setting.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 6 2020, 09:20 PM