Wah DFR one! Can change chuck!

This post has been edited by ceo684: Aug 19 2019, 06:13 PM

Actually I would like to clarify on the DFR change chuck means that it can change to a round shank chuck easily isit?
I have the 2-24 DRE (supposedly cannot change chuck), this is native SDS.
Since its SDS its very easy to just press down and loosen the SDS bits to change to other bits (which I don't really use much SDS beyond the 6mm for wood plug).

For woodworking, I rotate between 1.5mm round (on chuck adaptor) and screwdriver bit. This one is a PITA because have to keep opening and closing the chuck adaptor to change bits (racing against time for 1pm cut-off on Saturdays for noisemaking).

Maybe I try to buy another chuck adaptor so can just SDS-change rather than struggling with alternate bits.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Aug 20 2019, 11:04 AM

Thanks for the suggestion, but I already ordered the Hitachi chuck adaptor [+ chuck + chuck key] c/w 5 SDS bits and SDS chisel bit for less than 30
Prefer to use 2-24 since got 2 handles, more precise positioning and it has electronic speed control.
My old bosch drill (maybe 15-20 yrs d) has no speed control, sure overrun and strip threads de.

I do rough jointing of 1x4 pine panels to DIY TV rack, so no need to worry much about precise alignment since gonna countersink all the screws.

The screwdriver bits also came in useful when assembling ikea wood table No money for cordless driver (I feel macam duplicate tool) for me

I use rotary hammer to drive screws in but working with soft woods je. Usually I will predrill a 1.5mm hole and then drive it few turns with screwdriver by hand, then only use the rotary hammer. Got electronic control so easy to control the speed.

However the impact wrench I think is too high power for turning screws.. its like using a drill without speed control, full-on top rpm is not easy to control.

What kind of walls, brick wall or RC (concrete walls)?

I think its just a stepping difference if u are using for chiseling the 2-26 got more angles to lock the chisel at je.
But if your main usage is for 6mm wood plugs/10mm sleeve anchor the 2-24 also good enough already as even the 2-24 is designated as heavy duty.

If wanna cut the 38mm thick butcher block, jigsaw or circular saw is better?

I have an older bosch jigsaw (swiss made or sth) with these blades right now:
standard size Bosch T101BR Jigsaw Blade HCS Clean for Wood and also
the shorty blade (was told it was for making curved cuts) T101AO 20 TPI Clean for Wood T-Shank Jig Saw Blades

Wondering if I should procure the Bosch T308B Jigsaw Blades (5 Piece) 2608663751 Extra Clean just in case?


Will note down to use a straight edge. I tried freehand cutting pine wood with the "clean for wood" standard size blade (T101BR IIRC), so far ok lah, no splinters at the end

RC = must be rotary hammer else you can start drilling on Friday night with a normal drill... and we're not sure if you will complete by lunchtime Monday
Size of rotary hammer depends on the hole size you need. Depends on whether you will use a core bit OR normal SDS+ bit too.

Hi all,

As 10.10 is coming soon..
I was planning to get a circular saw to cut the sinkhole in butcher block countertop (28mm thickness birch).

For maximum theoretical load I might be using it to cut 2" thick (2x4) later on.

If I get the Bosch GKS7000 it will be sufficient right (as max cutting depth is 65mm)?

Do you guys recommend the GKS7000 or should I get the Hitachi C7SS instead based on:
- serviceability (eg carbon brush replacement)
- durability (should not fail under normal home use)
- consumables (184mm saw blade is common right?)

Also one more question, 40T is good enough for clean straight cuts (90deg) in birch butcher block, or I need to get a 60T/80T saw blade?

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 8 2019, 06:10 PM

Thanks for the input. Was thinking to get a router instead as I saw one guy on Youtube, he used a router to do very pretty undermount cutout on butcher block

Was looking at Makita M3600 black colour router vs Makita blue RT0700C small router + china plunge base.
No difference in terms of black and blue coloured tools from Makita right? Seems like the M3600 plunge router with Plunge capacity 0-60mm should fit my needs.


[https://www.lazada.com.my/products/corated-makita-mt-m3600g-12-12mm-plunge-router-1-year-warranty-i440589758-s650362199.html?ef_id=CjwKCAjw5_DsBRBPEiwAIEDRWx866R0-ClGUYXbnUT5ZYUwdoHEHtH4-23310smp9QxAAQOB8bh61xoCslIQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3150!3!244160057898!!!u!296303633664!&exlaz=d_1:mm_150050845_51350205_2010350205::12:1032211143!54400014687!!!pla-296303633664!c!296303633664!650362199!135750093!244160057898&gclid=CjwKCAjw5_DsBRBPEiwAIEDRWx866R0-ClGUYXbnUT5ZYUwdoHEHtH4-23310smp9QxAAQOB8bh61xoCslIQAvD_BwE]

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 9 2019, 10:35 AM

Hahaha if top mount a jigsaw will suffice. But I have a liking for undermount sink so have to do it right the first time since I'm holding the last pcs of butcherblock from IKEA lol

This one can use to drill on pure rotary (no hammer) mode ma.
Personally I prefer to use the rotary as it has two handles for more accurate grip.

For all-in-one,
See if GBH18V-LI should be good if paired with a lightweight battery (1.5/2AH)? It can do everything whilst not being crazy heavy.

I think a 12V from bosch or makita (cordless) would be a great choice. Not terribly heavy since its 12V. Entry level ones will do for the tile bit.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 18 2019, 05:37 PM

For laminates I believe they are rough sawn then finished off with router bit (trimmer), no?

I think the challenge is to get a 22mm bit in round shank (mostly this size 20mm+ will be SDS+) as impact drills won't be able to effectively drill >13mm dia.

22mm hole + 20cm depth sounds like you will need the masonry bit [https://shopee.com.my/BOSCH-SDS-Plus-5X-Masonry-Hammer-Drill-Bit-(22mm-x-200mm-x-250mm)-2608836644-i.1057873.1560631522] rather than core cutter as it's pretty deep. Best used with SDS+ rotary hammer.

If it's just one-off usage don't need to buy, just rent the rotary hammer (min 1 week) - https://www.12rent.my/pd-rental-bosch-gbh-2...s-plus-790w.cfm

For me I bought a rotary hammer (2-24 bosch) coz I stay in a place which has lots of RC concrete walls, normal drill would take too long to drill whereas a rotary hammer cuts through within 1-2 seconds for 6mm hole.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Nov 19 2019, 01:20 PM

Bosch also okay to purchase online via pee pee/lapsapda, just ensure the online seller is the online portion of an actual brick and mortar bosch dealer should be okay. The bosch website does publish a list of their dealers

Light usage GSB120 or so should be alright as long as not drilling concrete walls
As I remember for Makita cordless + BL (brushless) these are expensive tools coz brushless

Hi all,
would like to ask where to get those trim router (straight bits) for 6.35mm diameter shank.. other than pee pee/lapsapda.

Are these commonly stocked at hardware shops?

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 19 2019, 05:53 PM

Yes GWS060 is good enough. Angle grinder is dangerous tool. You can find variations with the ori handle, and also some c/w ori bosch discs.

You will need to use a grinding disc (thick one that looks like 5 DVD stuck together), not the thin cutting disc (thin like one DVD disc) if you're grinding on the flat side.

Why this is important? https://www.nortonabrasives.com/en-us/resou...ing-vs-grinding

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 24 2019, 05:54 PM