What you experience is the normal case , by right .It should be like this .
But now ,my cornering into left hand side is good and steady . But cornering into right hand side a bit shaky vis-a-vis the alignment I am getting now .

This post has been edited by zeng: Jan 6 2021, 07:04 PM

Oh, I get what you mean .
Tyre centre to foreward fender (horizontal) : LHS is 382.2 mm and RHS is 382.2 mm .Balanced .
Tyre centre to rearward fender :LHS is 386.2 mm and RHS is 392.2 mm .Unbalanced .
Front bumper had minor langgar backside of front car , not serious and car still drivable after minor accident .

This post has been edited by zeng: Jan 6 2021, 07:41 PM

Front sets of shock absorber, lower arm, stabiliser link, tie rod end and anti-roll bar bush set all had been replaced several weeks ago , as reported at bottom of Post #1 here .
So, it can't be unequal geometry .

This post has been edited by zeng: Jan 6 2021, 09:57 PM

Both strut tower top mounts were removed and reinstalled back .
So I think they are not damaged , IDK as I did not take a closer look at the top mount conditions in the midst of the suspension parts replacements job .

This post has been edited by zeng: Jan 7 2021, 11:09 AM

The only parts not replaced in the current job is steering column and its bush , steering pump , rack and pinion steering set ,spring set , steering knuckle , strut top mount/bearing and inner tie rods .
All other parts in the Front suspension system had been replaced , if I got it right .

Edit:


This post has been edited by zeng: Jan 8 2021, 07:59 PM

According to my Avanza wheel alignment screenshot whereby Camber +0° 30' is preferred by Toyota .

Add:


Do any of you having not so smooth/steady steering wheel movement during taking right turn of left turn corners after completing wheel alignment jobs or when new ?

I felt steering wheel not smooth and not steady even though alignment Camber angles are within specification and green coloured . Any similar experience from Avanza drivers here ?

This post has been edited by zeng: Jan 8 2021, 08:07 PM

Redo (foc) wheel alignment again , pulling left problem now is better than before ......
but steering wheel is not centred ..... ......

I don't normally tekan brake during turning .
Previously some times release petrol pedal during turn as often feel steering not steady and firm .
Now , with known -ve camber and firm and steady steering wheel , I normally maintain or tekan fuel pedal .....
without pressing on brake pedal always .

This post has been edited by zeng: Jan 12 2021, 11:46 PM

2007 Avanza 1.3L was said to be 5.5 .
1.5L was said to be 5.1 .

RS Ultra is strongly recommended...

I used to encounter severe understeer phenomenon with Avanza, only to realise Avanza's factory recommended wheel alignment specifications in a way promotes understeer, not so much of oversteer.
Having said this I did encounter oversteer once, several years ago on a rainy day.

This post has been edited by zeng: Mar 31 2021, 12:21 PM

Did you try the Gabriel for front set and if so, any additional improvement ?
Gonna to give stiffer Gabriel a try when time comes.

This post has been edited by zeng: Apr 1 2021, 06:41 PM

By changing oil on time, what's your oil change interval and oil type?
Anyway, appreciate the update.

This post has been edited by zeng: Apr 11 2021, 09:28 AM

Yeah, am keen to know why also.

My 13 yo factory lower arms were having 40-50 mm cracks on one side of both arms' bushes but no cracks on the other side of the bush.
He recommends it as good for continuing usage, which is in compliance with some OEMs' recommendations in manuals.
I replaced them anyway as most or all other suspension parts like absorber sets, tie rod ends, absorber stabilizer links, ball joint links, sway bar bushes etc were due and recommended for replacements .
Otherwise I would have kept them if not for the 'major' job in hand.
The pair of arms cost me about RM560 excluding labour.


This post has been edited by zeng: May 2 2021, 09:26 AM

You could buy the parts ownself (online or from spare parts shops) saving some bucks and pay more for labour I suppose.

Oops, sorry I didn't.
May I know why you wanna to reduce both sizes ?

Your online lower arm price is lower than what my workshop billed me.

Why the need for balancing, assuming reusing the front tyres ?

You surely need an alignment post repair where alignment angles are 'distorted'.

Appreciate if you would upload here an image of your 'After' alignment readings, to see if you are given factory front 'Preferred' positive camber of +00°15' which are lousy for cornering/turning.

If it was me, I'll specify to the shop a negative front camber. Currently I'm at -00°15' or thereabout.

This post has been edited by zeng: Jul 16 2021, 10:31 AM

Hi,

If it were me, I won't do further balancing unless steering wheel shakes (a little bit) at 130ish km/hr.

My mechanic did the replacements of RS Ultra front and rear and he actually advised against lower arm change with some 30 mm rubber cracks. Considering this set of original lower arms had served me over 300k km, I decided to have them replaced anyway to begin a new 'start'.

No, mine is not Saiko brand and I couldn't get 555 brand either.

Note:I did wheel alignment some 1 week after driving around 'hoping' for all joints/top mount/spring/absorber/bushes etc finally settles down..... not sure if it matters.

This post has been edited by zeng: Jul 19 2021, 09:49 AM

Lower arm gone case?