Senscents, is it HX7 5W30, semi synthetics ?
http://www.shell.com.my/motorists/oils-lub...-hx7-5w-30.html
If it is, it's a good oil.
But your Blotter Spot test looks a bit poor ........

Is your engine carburrettor type or port injection type , also meaning what year model ?

Thank you for sharing, btw.

This post has been edited by zeng: Oct 17 2017, 07:33 AM

engine carburrettor type 1997.
EO full synthetic


Attached thumbnail(s)

Thank you for feedback and the image showing this 5W30 being fully synthetics.

Yeah, my wira 4G15 is carburrettor type too, from year 1994.
Will post here later when I locate photo with 8600 something km , in Petronas Supremo 15W40.
I think my used oil Blotter Spot Test is 'better' than yours.Wait and see if I can find them.

Senscents , have you replaced the oil ?
As I'm of the opinion it's long overdue ....... when replacing this used oil, try take photo and upload here to see if its colour is dark grey or black without goldenish/amber colour.

Do your consider your engine is well maintained ? Like most Oil change intervals OCI normally at 8500 km.
I suppose you're aware generally carburrettor combustion is not as clean as MPI port injection , right?

Don't you think there may be something wrong with this Formula Shell 5W30 which claims 'fully synthetics' ?

Yeah just replace the EO few days back. Previuosly was using mineral with 5000km oc, just recently around 2 years trying out FS with around 8500km oc. For mineral it's about 4months and FS about 6months.
Like most of us the OCI of 5k km for mineral and 8k - 10k km for FS, can consider that the engine are very well taken care of. Right?
I'm not mechanically or technically knowledgeable regarding the cleanliness of carburrerator or mpi port injector.
Just a novice trying to maintain a good codition of a car.
I really don't have the knowledge of this Shell FS oil on what is wrong regarding it. Mind to elaborate.

Sigh of relief.
It's good that you have replaced the oil, whose Blotter Spot seems poor/weak/bad as compared to my 12,238 km or longer Blotter Spots (semisyn Total Quartz 10W40) in K3VE Avanza in post no. 1 .
While draining the oil, do you notice your oil was dark grey or black ?
What's the current oil in the sump now, is it Formula Shell 5W30 as per your photo ?



As a rule of thumb, 5000 -8000 km OCI for mineral oil and 8000-12000 km for FS should be fine, as you may have noted I did 16000 plus km OCI with a semisyn.
For our weather, oils of 4 months or 6 months or more than 12 months old also doesn't matter
But you have a problem here as your photo of Formula Shell 5W30 , I believe , is NOT Full Synthetic or Semi Synthetic as per photo.
..and it shows a rather poor Blotter Spot as per your upload above.
I believe it is a normal mineral oil as shown below :


which says at the bottom something like :
"use Formula Shell 5W30 (SN GF-5) conventional motor oil."

This post has been edited by zeng: Oct 17 2017, 08:30 PM

While draining the oil was very dark brown almost like black but i must say that the place was not well lighted also.
Still using the same FormulaShell FS 5w30 as posted, same 1quart bottle and lable as indicated.
By your opinion any thing wrong with the eo and blotter test.

Senscents,
Generally 8500 km OCI isn't a problem, IME with my cars.
However your FormulaShell Blotter Spot Test doesn't look good in a way for a claimed FS .

My assessment on your Blotter Spot is briefly as follows :
a )The soot/particulate products of oil oxidation etc are there but not detrimental yet, I guess.Btw what petrol brand and RON rating you use for this oil change ?
b )Oil dispersancy seems still working ok, and there is no question of breakdown of dispersancy property. Can't really see the 'suspected' negative effect of severe piston ring leakage as you had reported oil consumption in the other thread though.
c )There is indications of fuel dilution, do you take this Blotter sample when engine was cold or you always drive short distance of less than say 20 minutes ?
d )Overall, I would say it's time to replace the oil , as you had already done that.
e )You may consider Petronas Urania 3000 15W40 oils (as I suggested in the other thread) to see if it helps cleaning up engine internals and control oil consumption problem indicated.

There is nothing wrong with the eo except I don't 'believe' this is fully synthetics, though I can't prove it.
On the web, it variably claims full synthetic/semisyn/conventional oils , rather confusing indeed.

With same oil in the sump currently, I would suggest you try Blotter Spot 2000-3000 km before your 'intended' OCI and share them here for continuing assessment/evaluation by others .

Btw, can I have your kind permission to post this 'end of life' Blotter Spot Test in post 1 as easier reference for the general readers here ?

This post has been edited by zeng: Oct 18 2017, 12:06 PM

Btw what petrol brand and RON rating you use for this oil change ?
Shell95 being using that for years.

b )Oil dispersancy seems still working ok, and there is no question of breakdown of dispersancy property. Can't really see the 'suspected' negative effect of severe piston ring leakage as you had reported oil consumption in the other thread though.
Oil consumtion of around 250-300ml / 4k+ km, is fine for me as i just need to top up once.

c )There is indications of fuel dilution, do you take this Blotter sample when engine was cold or you always drive short distance of less than say 20 minutes ?
The blotter was taken when the engine was cold. Are there any major different taken when engine is hot or cold?

d )Overall, I would say it's time to replace the oil , as you had already done that. Done

e )You may consider Petronas Urania 3000 15W40 oils (as I suggested in the other thread) to see if it helps cleaning up engine internals and control oil consumption problem indicated.
Duly noted.

On the web, it variably claims full synthetic/semisyn/conventional oils , rather confusing indeed.
Ohhh.. can't be right. Should be FS for this FormulaShell, as per my photo attach. Same bottle, colour and label as indicated.

With same oil in the sump currently, I would suggest you try Blotter Spot 2000-3000 km before your 'intended' OCI and share them here for continuing assessment/evaluation by others .
Ok. Will try to.

Btw, can I have your kind permission to post this 'end of life' Blotter Spot Test in post 1 as easier reference for the general readers here ?
Ok. No problem. If possible you can post to bitog and let other sifus comments on it.

[/quote]

On behalf of ...

That partly explains presence of fuel in the Blotter Spot sample , and it causes oil deterioration.
It could be due to mechanical conditions of carburrettor fuel system or your driving style/habit with cold engine/excesssive idling etc .


Thanks, mate

I would like to ask if I may, my new car is about 14000 km now after a year. Thus i rarely travel far and long.

I do drive alot in city with stop & go traffic and thus I will never reach 10,000km OCI by 6 months.

My question is must I follow that 6 months interval? Is there an expiry date for my engine oil? Let's say in 6 months I only driven 3000 km but daily and short trips.

Can I prolong it to 10,000 km then only change even though it'll take 1 year and more?

I'm using Petronas syntium 800 10w-30 semi synthetic btw. And the car is proton saga campro vvt.

The only way to know if your current oil can last 10k km is to do a used oil analysis. It's better to just follow your owner's manual and change every half-a-year since stop and go driving wears out the oil and engine.

Shell Rimula mineral RX4 15W40; Rimula fullsyn or semisyn in 10W40 may be good alternatives to Petronas Urania.

VOA on PQIA for FormulaShell 5W30 looks not bad, indeed.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/formulashellsyn.htm


Feedback from Bitog appears not bad either.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthread...opics/3063402/1

But still, FormulaShell Blotter Spot at 8500 km:
https://forum.lowyat.net/uploads/attach-90/...-1508185758.jpg
https://forum.lowyat.net/uploads/attach-90/...-1508185786.jpg

....in a way , appears not as 'good' as Total Quartz 7000 Energy 10W40 at 12000-16000 km :
https://forum.lowyat.net/uploads/attach-2/p...-1495549001.jpg

Cylinder compression test may provide some clue whether leakage at stucked and worn piston ring sets occurs.IDK.

This post has been edited by zeng: Aug 28 2021, 11:00 AM

Comment like this kind of unobjective la....

Different engine
Different engine age
Different driving environment
Different driving habits

Imagination,

Before I comment further on 10000km OCI ,6 months, 1 year etc, may I know OEM recommendations on schedule service interval , viscosity grades etc , and whether you are concern about rights to warranty.
Your usage pattern appears like severe duty.
It would be helpful if you can upload relevant info from Campro Owner Manual with regards to above.

For now I may comment on your oil choice of Syntium 800 10W30:

a)
This 10W30 spec of SL A3 with TBN 6 is rather low compared to the other 2 below;

b)
This Syntium 800 5W30 SN GF5 with TBN 8.5 is stronger than 10W30 above;and

c)
Among the 3 oils, for better protection etc I would pick this Syntium 800 10W40 SN A3B3 with TBN 10.0 as my choice for Campro's 10,000 km oil change interval OCI, if warranty isn't an issue.

This post has been edited by zeng: Oct 19 2017, 09:56 PM

Your point on UOA is quite valid since it's quantative , but it's quite costly and not value for money.
For me, a Blotter Spot Test evaluation , though qualitative, is adequate to make assessment.
JMHO.

This post has been edited by zeng: Oct 19 2017, 10:05 PM

Hi zeng,

Thanks for the reply. I would like to confirm again (after seeing my service invoice) that the engine oil I'm currently using is Syntium 800 SE 10W30 SN-4L.

According to OEM recommendations (source from my car's manual):

1. There are 3 sections where engine oil recommendations are mentioned:
(i) At the front page where it says "PROTON recommends PETRONAS Syntium or Mach 5 product ranges meeting API SL or higher"

(ii)



(iii) Specs sheet on recommended lubricants: SAE 10W-30 or equivalent "SERVICE SL" or high grade


2. There are 2 conditions for oil change as stated in the manual:

(i) Periodical Service Maintenance whereby oil change is set at 10,000 km or 6 months (whichever comes first)


(ii) Severe Usage Service Maintenance whereby oil change is every 5,000 km or 3 months (whichever comes first)
- Severe operating conditions include but not limited to the following cases:

1. Driving on dusty roads or in an area in which the vehicle is likely to be exposed to salty air.
2. Driving on tough roads, on submerged roads, or hilly areas
3. Engine idling for long periods of time or short distances traveled during cold weather
4. Frequent, sudden application of brakes
5. Use as a rental car or taxi
6. Operation under excessive load
7. More than 50% operation time in heavy city traffic in hot temperatures of 32 Celsius or higher
8. Overloading
9. Operation in extremely hot weather condition.


Now my daily driving is about 15~20 mins to work in the morning. Ranging from 10 km ~ 19 km (depending if I have to drop someone off elsewhere first).

And on the way back home it'll take about 30 ~ 40 mins with I guess similar range but more traffic lights.

I do face a lot of traffic lights but rarely stuck in jam or idling for long periods of time. I'm also using a manual transmission car if it matters.

-----------

Regarding warranty, I'm sort of opting after my 3rd change (due to last free service) or even before that to do my OCI outside and possibly using other brand/quality of engine oil. Any recommendations? I'm sort of looking into cheaper oils like those in Lazada "Car Doctor" brands where have high review ratings & cheap fully synthetic. But a little skeptical as it is sort of too good to be true.

The rm60+ service charge is pretty darn expensive but yea I'll be losing the warranty. I am a little concern about warranty but would like to know if there is a cost saving route as well. Will have to weigh the pros and cons later.




*edit: I would also like to mention that I'm not so familiar with the technical specs & knowledge on engine oils

This post has been edited by Imagination *-*: Oct 20 2017, 01:19 AM

Tq for sorting out the reply that day.
How do you do that.

Here another.

Car: Perodua 2014
Engine: 1.3 auto
EO: Pennzoil Platinum Velocity 5w-40
Millage: 9000km

Edit: Add manufacture date

This post has been edited by senscents: Oct 20 2017, 01:44 AM


Attached thumbnail(s)

Senscents,
This 9000 km Pennzoil Velocity 5W40 in Perodua 1.3 blotter spot indicates :
a) very low level of insolubles or particulates/contaminants partly indicating very clean (year 2014) engine internals, btw what is the odometer km reading ? Petrol brand and RON xx used in this engine, same as your wira ? ;
b) low level of oil oxidation and minimal oil deteoriation, if you may kindly add 48/72 hrs pictures for better assessment ;
c) oil dispersancy capability is in very good condition, like new;and
d) no gasoline fuel in oil sample, may I confirm from you this is MPI port injection engines ?;and
e) This oil is good for continuing service , if you have not replaced it, and take another sample after 1000-1500 km usage.

Anyway, should you already change the oil, next OCI of this Pennzoil oil could be extended to beyond 10,500 km pending Blotter spot tests.


On checking its website, this oil has very strong specifications in ACEA C3, BMW LL04, MB 229.31 etc.
With this specifications, personally I would push OCI towards 15,000 or more in Perodua 1.3 with blotter spot tests. May be it's just me.

Note: I'm not familiar or seen this oil.
Based on facts available , all my comments in this thread are based strictly on blotter spot pictures with a tinge of personal bias/prejudice.
I'm biased towards oil approvals and certifications obtained, and no endorsement of oils is intended in this thread .

This post has been edited by zeng: Oct 20 2017, 09:36 AM

Where you bought blotting paper?