Hi guys, I am driving vvt executive 2016, planning to change the rim from r14 to r15.

I am eyeing advanti mp650u, is it going to increase FC even if I am maintaining the new tyres width?

Saw this randomly on Facebook. Funny how many people still love to hand pick only the cons of Saga just to make Bezza looks like the best A Segment car ever invented.

noise from the back is quite minimal to none. Most noise comes from engine bay, tires and side doors

my Silverstone Kruizer NS800 reached its end of life few days ago (Saga 2017). 32k KM milleage, 2 years.

I changed all of them to Conti CC6 @ RM720 (not sure if it is a good deal)

Now the grip and handling improved quite a bit(not sure if it is because the old tires almost botak already), but most importantly the noise reduced a lot! Really recommending this tire.

Silverstone is well known to be low tier tire, does the new Saga 2019 still come with silverstone tires?

This post has been edited by icebryanchan: Sep 16 2019, 04:28 PM

wow you are replying 2017 comment

wtf that QC , never heard of this problem in 2016 VVT also

Geely is trying to boost Proton's image , and DRB is there dragging their legs

sounds like some tin kosong is tied on your car and every small shake will cause the tin to be noisy.

Have you check your engine oil filter? maybe that one is loose? Coz it is the nearest tin-alike item in car that I can think of

This post has been edited by icebryanchan: Sep 23 2019, 06:31 PM

Not sure if I asked before, but I ask again,

when braking in D, the brake will not feel smooth and sometimes there are jerking too.

But when braking in N, the brake will feel very linear and smooth, no jerking.

Is this due to the CVT? or is there any other possible damage?

I hope it is not ABS though.

Thanks for the answer! Appreciate it

I think mostly is CVT problem as you said, I need to monitor more on my RPM to confirm that, because it does feel like engine braking to me.

Not really dirty throttle because I consistently using the "carbon cleaner" in my fuel, unless those are useless gimmicks

And for ABS, does it only trigger when high speed? because the situation I mentioned was all slow speed, 40kmph just before stopping in front of traffic light. And no Pulsating feeling too.

and no, I don't usually cruises when Neutral gear, it is quite dangerous to do so, I did it just to see if the jerking on brakes different on N or D gear

I got the same problem, do you park in shades then you drive out under the sun? I am 99% sure that is thermal expansion on the C pole or the rear bonet area. Pretty normal and I can only hear it during day time

Hi guys,

Anyone buy after market cabin filter for VVT air con? I tried finding at lazada and shopee but I can only found BLM/FL/FLX only.

Will it fit the same for VVT?

After waiting 1 whole month, ( 2 weeks for spare parts ordering, 2 weeks for appointment waiting), I finally get my Purge Canister and Fuel Pump Module replaced. Under warranty of course, not a single cent spent.

Surprisingly, changing these two items fixed both of my previous problems.

I knew that Punch CVT is very infamous of its delayed response and jerking in slow traffic. But my jerking was way way way too worst to be true, and the delay problem has been solved since the latest software update. So I started to suspect it is not due to the CVT.
Today my suspicion finally gets its answer

Endless of online research and youtube videos, after all the hassles my knowledge about cars has been improved a lot lol

Conclusion from my research:
for Saga VVT CVT jerks, it is not always due to CVT.
Possibilities are:
1. Fuel System (from fuel pump to canisters)
2. Air System (dirty throttle body)
3. Mounting ( engine mounts or transmission mounts)
4. ECU software (error codes or miss-tuned ECU)

Self-checking for these problems:
1. Fuel System - hardest to check, need proper tools to check the fuel pressure, with code device reads the sensors readings, etc. Usually can only be done in workshop or SC.
2. Air System - can self open up the air duct after air filter, can see the throttle body is dirty or not already.
3. Mounting - press the leg brakes firmly, then rev your engine. Then ask a friend to look at the engine, if the engine moves a lot when you rev, the mounting is dead. same goes with transmission.
4. ECU software - unless if you are rich enough to buy the code reader, better go ask SC for help.

P.S. can really learn a lot when you drive Proton, so many little problems hahaha ( JK

This post has been edited by icebryanchan: Sep 27 2019, 07:05 PM

Silverstone NS800, cheap and low-tier tire, balanced in everything for daily drive. Noisy AF, bad wet braking, not really durable as a non-comfort tire (30k for me, probaly because I drove Penang-KL 6 times, Penang-Johor 1 time? ).

I changed to CC6. Before that I heard a lot of people complaining about CC6 for having bad wet braking, hohohohoho, they never tried the NS800, aqua-planning starts around 15k mileage for me.


Oh yea, dont bother to change it, because 2nd hand tire really has no value, just use until one of the tire thread gone botak, then your excuse of changing good tires has come!!!

lol more likely to get RM100 for four, not RM100/piece

Noisy means, you can hear the tires even when you are at low speed (less than 60kmph). After changing to CC6, below 60kmph I can only hear my engine noise. 60kmph to 90kmph I can hear the tire noise. over 90kmph I hear the wind noise.

wow lucky you, RM50 per piece for 2nd hand really good price already, some bosses don't even want to get used tires. CC6 around RM700, just top up RM500 i think it is a good dea.

CC6 was only released in Malaysia at the end of 2016, how to you get 4 years with light usage?

it could be cc5, cc6 improved a lot on its durability, at least thats what I heard from the official conti guy and some youtubers

Mine is still running today after 2 years and 2 months. Literally just went to tire shop this morning ( 5th Oct 2019) and asked the boss to have my battery tested. All in good condition. The device shows 100%

Proton SC always recommend to change every year which I would say is BS. Just go to outside workshop or tire shop have the mechanics check for you, see if you really need to change the battery.

If really need to change, I heard Amaron is the best, Panasonics also not bad.

HI all, wanna ask stupid question

Is condenser, compressor, etc etc air con related item under warranty?

erm whats the different between manufacturer and proton warranty?