Oh but mine not hybrid one, Im those model before the current facelift. So the S still applicable to sports mode even for my model?

so far how? is it good to use jazz? is it underpower on highway? im still waiting for my jazz to arrive though

Thanks for doing this. While I've got no expectations from this feature, could you load some high frame rate content onto the phone screen while casting through MHL ? Just scroll through play store or something. Scroll through play store on the phone I mean, not the resistive HU touchscreen.
But then how would you record... hmmm...
I guess just report back if it's choppy and how many seconds delay before HU reacts...

Btw, I knew E spec got 4 airbags, found 2, where is the other 2? Steering, passenger dashboard and??

This morning when i start my car, only battery was running, engine didnt start, the electric power steering and starter indicator system shows up. So i refer to my manual and follow the solutions. First time happened this issue after driving for 4 months. Should i bring it to the dealer for a check up?

Oh do u mean the pillar ? Pillar = driver seat side and passenger seat side?

Ya...Cold engine light never lights on, what is the diagnosis ya? U face similar problem as me?

And i hope the cold engine thingy is the same as high temperature symbol right?

No... my manual just say because of the starter indicator system, the look is like (handbrake sign mix an clockwise arrow turning and surrounding the handbrake sign), so i have to press the push start button for 15 seconds while stepping on the brake. Never mention anythingg about the temperature. This sitution need brings to the dealer ma?

Yes, if you turn on A/C to Low Speed (1 bar) it should last ~7-9 minutes. Then engine turns on to charge for ~2 minutes.
If you turn off everything, leaving just DRL + HU + instru cluster, it should take ~30+ minutes (lost track of time).

wow~! man, if only IMA has full EV mode.....

*Edit* I'm saying this because I have a CBU 2013 Jazz Hybrid. Loved everything about the car. Only downside is that it doesn't have full EV mode, otherwise it'd be perfect.

I don' think you can get 6/6 unless you are coasting downhill. Please be aware that regen braking will not function when fully charged at 6/6. Not sure how that will affect the braking feel, but something to watch out for.
Excerpt here.
Here's a chart stolen from here as usual. Left chart is JDM pre-2014 recall. Right chart is after JDM 2014 recall. We are probably using Right chart.
When we just reach 4/6 bars, we are only half way there. 5/6 bars is where you wanna dump the power it into SPEEEEEED or you could just slowly discharge it at 90km/h.

Will you retain the stock HU or do you have plan to upgrade it to a better Apple car Play or Android Auto

How about the sound and  speaker quality

Did 610 km for my tank today (~30% city drive)

35 litres for 75 ringgit to refuel.

Happy

Nope, Jazz E 😅

I only manage get 400++ km full tank

32 litres

Pre FL 30% highway 70% city

But always speed on highway.

17' rims but much more lighter than 16' Honda City's rims

Oh hey that's my acceleration...
He's on manual, and shifts to neutral gear to glide(I think I heard him say "See no gear" @ 0:40), so there's no transmission loss for him (someone correct me). Dangerous guy.
Us EV guys have a different method.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AW6CdnZCKY
Run it at 2x + closed caption.

So, here's what I've done, then gave up on but it semi-works without replacing anything in the car.
I was mainly aiming to polish sheit into bronze, not shiet into gold, so it kinda works.
Do note, this is not the conventional way to get better sound quality.
This is figuratively shoving a square into a circle and you get squared circles, or rounded squares. Whatever.
Point is, am forcing stock speakers to behave like other speakers.

Equipment Used:
Phone [3.5mm AUX] -> [3.5mm AUX to RCA] MiniDSP [RCA to 3.5mm AUX] -> [3.5mm AUX] BT Transmitter [Bluetooth] -> [Bluetooth] Head Unit
Those who see the hardware and roughly know what I'm trying to do with the hardware above, just skip cause you already know it won't work proper. 

Pros:
80% match my reference (AFTER a little +1/2dB EQ bump with phone *sigh*)
Head unit saves volume profile across Sources (AM/FM1/FM2/BT) so can safely change source without changing volume.
Cost??Maybe?? (I haven't scouted the price of amplifier+crossovered tweeters+installation yet  )
BT takes over "Media Audio" profile only. You still can route phone calls to phone.
Blind test puts a smile on your face on how much improvement it got compared to stock... then you cross check with your reference... and    but keep at it  , it'll shine abit more, then you'll realise you've hit that limit and continue

Cons:
Soundstage/imaging located at top part of steering wheel which still sucks. Probably due to lack of tweeter/front speaker. Need hardware upgrade to fix which may void warranty (idk) and fork out more $$$.
Startup procedure is pain in the ass due to old ass bluetooth version pairing, but mainly because Honda Malaysia skimped on a <RM2 AUX connector for god knows what reason 
-Power up car > Turn on BT Device > on the HU, go to Bluetooth Audio > Settings > Connect Bluetooth Audio > Select BT device > on BT device, Trigger Rejoin procedure > immediately on HU click Connect icon > Exit main screen
Can't control Previous/Next track due to 3.5mm AUX.
Still need to tune with phone equaliser. (may be avoided, just need to spend extra few more hours or so)
Noise from BT transmitter can be heard at quiet parts of the song. Hissssssss. Like those AUX to FM transmitter noise. (This is gain-staging problem, MiniDSP mainly cuts dB to match house curve. You can try set Bass -5 on HU to so MiniDSP doesn't reduce gains so much, just an idea.)
Uses 2 USB ports to power MiniDSP and BT Transmitter. So you probably need a 12V to 3x/4x USB and a good quality or modern one. (1x charge phone + 1x dashcam)
--If you cheap out on 12V to USB socket (ones that use cheapo 50sen MC34063 ICs), both, BT transmitter and MiniDSP will cause a lot of noise.
----To fix BT transmitter noise, you can solder extra SMD 50V 10nF+10uF+10uF (space constraint) on BOTH input and output side tank capacitors. Solder them between the through hole electro cap legs. --BT transmitter has internal battery (most have it at least), so it will draw a light load current from the regulator, thus no noise. MiniDSP pulls too much current and it screeches.
Wires. Dem freaking wires everywhere. 2 AUX + 2 USB going from 12V to armrest.
Can't cast because casting forces audio routing to end device. (I think?) That means no 'Waze on the big screen'. Boo hoo.
No album art info & display. But FL HU already don't work proper ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Total damage:
USD $105 MiniDSP DSP hardware
USD $10 MiniDSP DSP software
USD $75 UMIK-1 calibrated mic (optional, you can do it by ear if you trust yourself, or you can do it the old way, RTA/ear+pink noise)
~RM9 3.5mm -> RCA
~RM0/RM9 RCA -> 3.5mm (BT Transmitter should provide it)
RM60/140 Bluetooth transmitter (~RM60 if you can wait for 1 month shipping from China, ~RM140 ship in 3 days)
RM??? 12V to 3/4 port USB charger. (Had one lying around, since 6 years ago. In the car. Under the sun. It didn't explode. Yet.)
Lots and lots of reading and trying to understand and actually doing by experimenting and failing.
Time.
Fuel because A/C due to Weather hot and humid AF, everytime, everyday.

Quick Overview:


That just about sums it up.

So the FL jazz wont show blue radiator when start in the morning? Correct?

Any hybrid FL / DCT owners experiencing this during jam ?
Jolting like in the video during gear shift at low speeds (~10-20 km/h).
Skip to 1:08 then just watch for 5 seconds.

Edit:
Done more reading on "bucking". DCT is a manual and should be operated like one.
So if jam and 2 bar battery:
Don't inch forward like those Myvis kissing bumpers.
Release brake pedal, let it roll first, then feather throttle.
Don't even be in this condition in the first damn place. Plan ahead when to charge your batteries or your transmission will hate you, then you'll hate the transmission then hate yourself.
Sacrifice a few 0.5~1km/l to force charge the batteries before reaching jam areas, better safe than sorry.
To anyone thinking that 'oh hybrid will solve DCT stop-and-go traffic problem', well yes and no. ^
Our puny batteries only last 7-9 minutes on 1 speed A/C and ~15 minute on blower only, no A/C.
If your commute has this amount of time stuck in jam, then no worries. Just make sure to top up battery before entering jam.
Else, this car is no different from other DCT during stop-and-go traffic.
Caveat emptor.

The new infotainment system sucks big time. Why the heck the move the usb and hdmi near to the screen istead at the bottom. Not kemas la i must say with wayar and all.haiyooo

This is not scientific, but this is by far the best i can (800km) get for roughly 35L. 90% highway driving, my current mileage is 4k. Im driving 100km/day, so i think hybrid is good for me.[attachmentid=9122590]

ya lor. not even wallpaper or time display on it. whaaaaaatttttttt

Driving a hybrid car efficiently is actually a very taxing thing to do.

Because you have to be constantly assessing the traffic in front and anticipating things so you do not waste energy trying to gain momentum unnecessarily and try not to lose too much momentum and keep on gliding the car as efficiently as possible.

Something not that easy to do in malaysia traffic in my opinion.

city hybrid or jazz hybrid? compare their noise level, handling, fuel economy and 0 to100km. i plan to buy one of them.