Best scenario for PS4 pro in regards to storage and performance is this (which is what I'm using now) : -

512gb SSD as internal drive, set as primary install location.
3TB 3.5" external HDD via a toaster.

All games that I've finished and don't frequently access anymore I'll move it to the external as storage. Games that takes zero advantage of an SSD (MGSV for example), I just put it on the external and load the game from there.

Moving a game from internal to external is pretty quick thankfully. Also, there aren't much difference in using an SSD as an external vs internal either. The SATA 3 interface is still routed through the USB bus internally on the PS4/Pro. I just use an SSD as internal storage on the Pro because it's impossible to fit a 3.5" drive in there.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Feb 7 2017, 12:56 PM

Sounds good.

Where you getting this deal from?

To answer your question very simply; NO, it won't shorten the lifespan of the PS4 Pro.
If you want to hear out a theory, keep reading.

Previously before "boost mode", the PS4 Pro will run at the exact same clock speeds as the OG PS4, both on the CPU and GPU side. According to Cerny, he said this is to ensure 100% compatibility for older titles that do not have a "Pro patch".

It's not quite clear yet what "boost mode" does on the PS4 Pro, technically speaking. The OG PS4 has 18CUs (20 on die, but 2 disabled) and the Pro has 36CUs. However the Pro also runs the GPU clock at 911mhz vs 800mhz on the OG PS4. Until we get an internal look on the die of the Pro, it's only speculated that the Pro's GPU is a variant of a RX480, custom made for Sony by AMD. That means it is not the same chip as the OG PS4's GPU, which was based on the HD7850.

There are no differences in architecture on the CPU side other that a clock speed increase. So it's 1.6ghz vs 2.1ghz, logically speaking it makes sense that "boost mode" is allowing the Pro to run its CPU at 2.1ghz instead of being locked to 1.6ghz. So with that said, it logically sounds plausible that the "boost mode" removes the lock on clock speeds on the Pro when a game without a "pro patch" is playing.

To further answer your question then, the Pro's cooling capabilities are built around the Pro's specifications. So unlocking the speeds simply just lets the Pro run itself as it should. If a PS4 Pro has no issue exploding when playing a "pro-patched" game, then it will have no issues (hardware wise) when playing games without a pro-patch.


AND, finally - before ANYONE brings it up to cause confusion: Boost Mode DOES NOT, I repeat; DOES NOT make games with a "pro patch" run better or faster, at ALL.



The ext. HDD support is account tied.

I have 2 PS4s. 1 OG and 1 Pro. I can move the ext. HDD to any PS4 as long as my main account where the games are downloaded from onto the ext. HDD is set as primary on each of the PS4. This is why when you move a game from the internal storage to the external one, not the entire file is moved. There are some validation files left over on the internal file should the user choose to move their ext HDD around systems.

There's actually an Asia wide shortage of PS4 Pros currently. Was at the US last week and there weren't that many Pros on shelves either.

So yeah, there is an issue with production currently.

My speakers system in my sig.

Sound quality doesn't suck at all. But it's not the best either, considering most games are still lossy compressed. Games that do have lossless compression though, they sound very good.

As for headphones, I do have Fostex TH900 and Fidelio X1. Outputting from the PS4's optical to a DAC with optical input and then to an amp, the headphones do sound good enough. The DS4 however do not have the capability to drive neither headphones to their maximum potential (not even the very easy to drive Fidelio X1), but it's not "bad" either. Fairly decent is about what I'd rate the DS4's headphone jack output.

Aune X1. Keeping it simple now a days.

Persona 5 doesn't have a "pro-patch" though. It also doesn't benefit much from the "boost" mode either.

The nominal charging voltage for DS4's batteries are 1.2v. It's safe up to 1.5v. Chargers without a resistor above 1.5v can and will damage the battery in a rather short term. The battery on the DS4 is rated to hold its charge for up to 400 full charge cycles. If within one week you notice that your battery is running out quicker than usual, then that's the sign the battery cells are already damaged.

In a nutshell, as long as your USB charger is below 2.1a then you are fine and is designed to the standards of USB voltage regulations, you are fine.




Honestly? Neither. Just wait for 2017 TVs.

But if you MUST choose between these 2 only, go for the Samsung.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Feb 21 2017, 04:45 PM

Not sure what's your issue, kind of contradicting yourself.

From PS3;

Gran Turismo - GT Sport is coming this year
Top Spin 4 - Tennis games are dead, go play real tennis instead.
Red Dead Redemption - RDR2 is coming this year (presumably), but there's Horizon Zero Dawn right now
Infamous - Uhh... Infamous Second Son and First Light has been out for years.
Last of Us - TLOU2 is coming.
Dragon's Dogma - Nioh?
Heavy Rain - Detroit is coming soon, Until Dawn has been out for over a year and half.


"No games" for the PS4 is such a hyperbole term.

Sounds to me that you're just not very interested in games anymore, generally speaking. You could go to the PC and say the same thing.

Top Spin 4 sold poorly. Pretty much every tennis game sold poorly in the last gen. Fingers crossed on another tennis game.

No, Nioh isn't anything like Dynasty Warriors mixed with Muramasa. It's a fusion of Ninja Gaiden + Onimusha + Dark Souls. Dragon's Dogma was cashcom's take on the Dark Souls franchise.
Nioh is not open world, it's "mission" based with different maps for each mission. The level layout is of course much more detailed and elaborate than any Dynasty Warriors game. Yes, there are skills to upgrade/acquired.

Also it's Horizon Zero Dawn, not New Dawn. Would be nice if the sequel is called New Dawn.

Until Dawn is free with PS+ (Asia PSN). You have no reason not to get it.
Infamous second son was free before, but it's not difficult to get a second hand copy for cheap.

I hated Fallout 4. A pointless waste of time.

Most if not all TVs (even no-name ones) are at least 60hz. True 120hz TVs however are still very rare, majority of the ones that advertises themselves are doing it via interpolation or black frame insertion.

Yes, 30 and 60fps is very noticeably difference.

I've been playing on 144hz for 2 years now, switching to 120, 60 and 30 throughout this period as well.
My experience are (in as layman terms as possible) as follows:

30 to 60hz = Day and night difference, instantly noticeable. You gotta be brain dead not to notice it.
60 to 72/75hz = Subtle difference, it's the cheap-man's version of trying to get more hz.
60 to 90hz = Quite noticeable, but not a day and night jumb.
60 to 120hz = A day and night difference, equivalent to jumping from 30 to 60hz.
60 to 144hz = Pretty much like jumping to 120hz, except with even less input latency. I'm not a pro SF/GG/BB fighter where I can count buffers and latency with my eyes so I can't appreciate the improved latency.

*bonus
120hz to 144hz = I can't tell the difference. For me, 120hz is where the diminishing returns kick in.
120hz to 165hz = I haven't played enough on 165hz, so I do not have a conclusion on it yet.


Now understand that up to 60hz, everything else only applies to PC gaming. Consoles are locked to 60hz and will forever be locked there unless everyone can stop whining about the possibility of $1,000 gaming consoles and TVs that cost half their myvis.

Get a good 4k TV that does HDR properly (both Dolby Vision and meta HDR10), a TV that upscales content well, and a TV with low input lag. That's about all a console gamer needs.


*EDIT*
However, with the advent of HDMI 2.1 - variable refresh rate can be a real game changer for console gaming.

If implemented correctly, the next-gen consoles can in theory give console gamers a smooth gaming experience regardless of the framerate (up to 60hz however) with no screen tearing and minimal input lag. Think Gsync/Freesync, but at a more moderate level. It's really the next most important thing for gaming.


Resogun. Native 4k, 60fps.


inb4 "b-bu-but it's not AAA game!"

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Mar 1 2017, 06:57 PM

Well you're wrong and from your post, it seems very clear that you do not understand refresh rates on displays as a whole.

You can set the refresh rate for a TV just like a monitor as long as the display device feeding it has the option to do so. Consoles don't have that, so yeah it's not possible on that front. But connect a PC to a TV, you can set custom resolutions and refresh rates just as you could on a monitor.

No, a TV won't automatically "upscale" (wrong term, but whatever) a 24hz source (Blu ray movie) to 60hz unless you tell it to. If the TV has 24p support, it will run at 24hz, thus no judder. Most decent TVs from the last 5 years has it. Seeing judder is however subjective, since you said you can't see it then I'll give you the benefit of the doubt there.

I've explained this before: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=82802258

The cable only matters if you are doing long runs. By long runs, I mean above 8m. The longer the run, the more the cable matters.

HDMI 2.0 cable does not exist, actually. It's a stupid term made by stupid marketers to sell their products. Because the bigger the number, the better it is, right?

Under a certain length, all HDMI cables (assuming they are built correctly) are the same. They are NOT called HDMI > insert number < cable. They're simply called a HDMI cable, nothing else. That's the correct term.


To add one extra bit of info however; since late 2013 there exists HDMI cables that are CERTIFIED as High-Speed cables. These are the so-called "HDMI 2.0" cables people are calling, which I always find hilarious because it's a term made out of thin air.
You buy a certified high-speed cable to transport 4k @ 60fps with 4:4:4 chroma at 8-bit depth. Most people don't need this cable because guess what? Their console don't even do it in the first place. The PS4 Pro only either lets you choose 4:2:0 with HDR or 4:4:4 at 1080p, end of story.

In short, if your need of a cable run is only 6 meters or less, just buy a cable built to the correct standards. They don't cost more than RM30.
If you need a cable length that runs for over 8 meters, then you will have to buy higher gauge cables, you may have to add a repeater, or if you need extremely long runs like over 15 meters, then you may have to buy a fiber optic HDMI cable (this one will cost at least your pinky and a toe).


Then you should have made your question clearer.

Once again, I run my HTPC to my TV every single day. I have 2 modes for it, 60hz for PC games, 24hz for movies. It is done through the GPU's control panel (Nvidia, in my case). Hell, I'm typing this post right now at 24hz with a TV episode of Arrow paused just to reply to you.
Movies aren't choppy at 24hz for me on a TV purposely set to 24hz, they are inherently "slow" of course but that's how they are filmed and that's a whole other topic.

To answer your real question: My question is about PS4 pro especially. If can choose 30fps or 60fps setting, is there any different on 4k TV? as in 120Hz, TV will multiply to fit it.


If the game is in 60hz and the TV is NATIVELY in 120hz, then no there is no difference. You would still see 60fps (assuming the game holds at 60fps 99% of the time). But I can count on one hand how many actual, NATIVE 120hz 4k TVs there are on the market right now.
Unless you want to play a game at 60hz, enable interpolation or BFI on the TV just so it is at 120hz to reduce motion blur; then be my guest. I'm not going to entertain the input lag hell it comes with.

It adds on to your current PS+ remaining days. It's accumulative.

Get your PS4 Pros ready guys, firmware 4.5 coming tomorrow (or day after rather, for us). Just don't expect boost mode to be beast mode, just sayin'.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Mar 6 2017, 09:58 PM

For all PS4s la. Just that Pro benefits the most.

Err...

Frame pacing issues are still there, nothing changed about that. But I've been on boost mode for the last 3 weeks now and have finished at least 3 - 4 heavily populated chalice dungeons that I really liked. I know by heart some of these dungeons drop to near the low 20s, with boost mode it's much more linear at 30fps. It's a very obvious difference, even if the frame pacing is still there.

While on an overall level, nothing much has changed.

That said, there are some games which were absolutely unplayable (hello Just Cause 3 and The Evil Within), boost mode allows those games to actually feel... playable, for real.

I've been mauling over 90 hours of Yakuza 0 and the game while was advertised running at 60fps, it really isn't. It runs more frequently in the 50s, boost mode pretty much bumps that up to near 60 and eliminate a lot of the screen tearing. That to me, was very much appreciated.

Yes.

You get the option to set either the internal or external storage as your primary drive. But games can be played wherever.

Both. Physical or digital installs the game entirely onto your PS4. Your disc is basically just a verification device, it does nothing beyond that after being installed.

Again, you choose which drive is primary. So if it's the internal one, the disc will install the game onto the internal drive. You can then move it to the external drive after that if you want.


You can have a small SSD on the PS4 (say 512gb) and then get a 2/3/4TB HDD as external. Make the internal SSD as your primary drive where all downloads will go to. Once you're finished with the game, you can move it onto the external drive. It's a relatively quick and simple process.

Basically that's what I'm doing now.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Mar 7 2017, 03:55 PM

Transcend SSD370 512gb - https://www.transcend-info.com/Products/No-631

It was just laying around in my store room doing nothing, so... might as well use it.