No lah, I feel so lonely, cant talk with anyone else about the card performance. I thought some of those cards might've been for local users so that we can share and exchange pointers on how to push it further. The air is fresh and cool up here at the top though, it just gets very lonely.

Was thinking of doing so, but the interest was so lukewarm, I decided not to do any sort of worklog on it. Case modding and custom liquid cooling is a dying art these days, people are getting more impatient nowadays and want to "get their stuff and immediately use it" (hence why lots of them flock to prebuilt brands like Dell (bleh!) or gaming brands like Asus or MSI, with limited styling and cookie cutter setup and limited expansion capabilities), instead of making it look as custom as your own personality, making it deserve that performance with custom looks.

PM me, I'll share with you on what to do, who to go for and what you need to make your own custom gaming rig of your dreams. You can actually opt to do all the mods and all the installs yourself, but I suggest going with those who know these things first, get to see them in action, and learn from them. It'll be an expensive mistake if you choose to do this yourself, and end up with leaking rigs, and mods that you cannot recover from.

There's a reason why I block that guy too. ^

Door number 1 - a physical tangible completed gaming rig.

Door number 2 - eight cards all cock talk.

Coincidentally, "8 GPU Man" did attempted to message and/or add me on Facebook. I just brush it off like the filthy POS that he is. Sorry Mr. L, not interested in the shit you're peddling.

P/S: my shit on FB's Public bruh. Everyone can see. Under which account are you hiding?

This post has been edited by stringfellow: Oct 4 2016, 08:50 PM

Use MSI Afterburner/EVGA Precision XOC or whatever OC app your card comes in, and set the fan profile to whatever you're comfortable in. You can either dial up up straight to that target RPM that is comfortable for you, but if the game is punishing on your card, the fan RPM will ramp up no matter what, to preserve operating temperature as much as it can.

My Asus Founder 1080, I set the fan curve up to 80% gradually (80% is as much noise I can tolerate with the stock cooler), unless the temperature goes past 83C, I set it to 100% full blast, which is very noticeable and noisy. I'm changing my GTX1080 stock cooler to the EVGA Hybrid Kit with AIO liquid cooler so that I can eliminate both temperature spikes and noise from the fan. Kill two birds with one stone, in this case, kill two problems with one kit.

Those who're still kept the faith with Mortal Kombat X, your faith is fulfilled today. Kombat Pack 2, which essentially turns the game into full Mortal Kombat XL is now available as DLC for RM19 only. Netherrrealm Studios fixed the mess that High voltage Studios made with the Pc version, and made the PC version the best version to play MKXL on. 4K, unlimited framerate, razor sharp details, and netkode on parity with the console version.

Off to satiate my blood lust.

Oh look, when there's juicy happenings going on, all the interesting characters from Kopitiam come out of the woodworks. .

What did I miss? Just woke up, been up all night and early morning troubleshooting, apparently being an early adopter means you inadvertantly being roped in as a beta-tester. But that's what gaming is all about these days anyway. Dick-measuring aside, what have you been using your rig on lately?

Hehe, shameless. Blocked here, still wanna lurk on my Facebook.

1080 in SLI works fine as long as the game supports it. Some games dont support SLI. "Quantum Break" for example does not support, until recently when it's made available on Steam running DX11. Even so, SLI scaling and support on most modern games are decent at best, and if you're sensitive to spiking frametimes, microstutters because of the SLI workload is also present. When you come to situations like that, your two 1080s might as well be a single 1080, coz the other card will remain idle while the other remaining card is working by itself.

If you can wait till early 2017, 1080Ti should be the one to go for. I wouldn't dare suggest a Titan X Pascal, that card will definitely be able to run 4K at 60Hz, or if it does dip below 60fps, a G-Sync monitor will smooth that out. Plus, the stigma that comes with that card, with being called "bangsawan" and all kinds of -wan as if it's a sin to use one, is probably something you dont want to live with. I just chalked those name-calling as a 7-letter word beginning with a J.

Bear in mind it'll be a pretty penny.

1080 Founders is USD799. Titan X Pascal is USD1199. Logic dictates the 1080Ti to be somewhere in the middle. USD999. And with our floundering Ringgit.....

This post has been edited by stringfellow: Oct 5 2016, 04:38 PM

Quote em, block em.

Easy. TS be damned.

Living area rig kept crashing to desktop(CTD), found the culprit.

Shadowplay.

So much for software-based broadcasting. Tested Forza Horizon 3 for 2 hours running overclocked, no CTDs. At first was suspecting either the EVGA Precision XOC or MSI Afterburner, but even after removing them, still CTD. Common denominator was Nvidia's Shadowplay, was broadcasting to YouTube and couldn't hold on to a live feed for more than 10 minutes before CTD so bad, a complete cold boot is necessary. Maybe one of those ElgatoHD will do good this time.

On a completely different tangent, maybe "they" are ashamed to show 'em because it's not a looker anyway. All that power, but looking like a rundown "taxicab". The "pretend" noble gesture of keeping it on the down low or in the closet, probably coz it's in a beige PC case anyway. Teeheehee!


This post has been edited by stringfellow: Oct 5 2016, 08:13 PM

SLI is only last ditch effort, if a single card can do the work, it's much better. And cheaper too.

Should be here in a week, hand-carried from US of A. Only USD104. Finally taming that hot and noisy beast!



Official unboxing at Cyberjaya soon.

This post has been edited by stringfellow: Oct 6 2016, 04:08 PM

If that is even real, I'm good for another year. I'm getting that on my TXPs, AND more, just by adding water. Plus, when you already hit 4K60 on maximum everything (everything that matters anyway, minus AA), anything extra is just icing on the GPU cake.

Gears of War 4 game-ready driver is out. Download yours now.

http://www.geforce.com/whats-new/articles/...driver-released

I'm not defending the Store, it is crappy. In fact, I had Forza Horizon 3 crashing on me multiple times until I had to reset the store and sync fresh copy of the game save. But the download indicator is not indicating true download size downloaded. I had to restart my gaming rig a couple of time after a times restart every night, and that includes when I was downloading Gears of War 4 80GB download, and even when the download indicated that it is downloading back from the start and not from where it was before, the download size is smaller. It's a mess really, but you're not downloading a fresh 80GB when you restarted a download when you have downloaded a portion before. At least that is what happened to my case. In the case when occasionally the store works properly, the updated download size will also be updated too, but mostly it will just say "downloading 80GB", instead of the remaining size.

downloading GOW4 on my main rig was problem-free, thankfully. But doing it on the VR rig, it blew past 80GB, right up to 90GB, then I was suspicious something went wrong. I had to delete the three folders created by the game by using Unlocker, reset Windows Store by using the "wsreset" function, and start a new download. It went by properly after that.

You cant hard copy Win10 games like Steam, UPlay or Origin. The games are tied to your account, and to your hardware signature. The same way your Windows 10 is tied to your hardware, and when you're moving/upgrading to a new motherboard, you'll have to request from Microsoft to transfer that Win10 to the new hardware/build you're doing.

"wsreset" does that. Click your start button, type "wsreset". Done.

The more crippling problem for those who have preloaded earlier was two situations: could not preload (button for install does not even appear) and the download going past 73GB install size. That's where the "Unlocker" method was used. The install apparently keep download the game over and over, even though the three required folders in the drive you install your game on, has already been preloaded. This results in the install, rewriting itself, llike a snake eating its own tail. The situation was described at www.gearsofwar.com forum, although it was fixed now and the thread entry was deleted by the mods there.

What do you use to test the stability of the core clock OC that high? Heaven? Firestrike Extreme/Ultra?

That wasn't my intention, if you OC is stable at that frequency, by all means, proceed. You may have a golden chip in your hands. But if you run looping Heaven, Firestrike or TimeSpy benches for 20-30 minutes without the app crashing, that would confirm its stability. I can get my own card up to 2150Hz core clock, but the moment any stress test is attempted, it either CTD or locks up the system or loses signal feed to the display, requiring cold boot.

Looking at your screenshot, it's reporting 2000Mhz, not 2133Mhz. 2133Mhz is as high as it goes, but due to the nature of GPU Boost 3.0, it will never maintain that clock throughout the game. Unless you push every settings up, do DSR or any form of supersampling, that'll probably push the card to try and keep it that high to maintain those settings. And then........the power and/or thermal limit locks you back down. Thermal limit I can do something about it, but power limit, well........unless you shunt a few resistors and void your warranty, that's the limit of your OC adventure.