Is time take ur car go make full paint correction (polish and wax or coat) , see macam got swirl hehe

Hello all bros.. have a question here
The mazda3 gl version stock tyres are 205/60R16
Must we replace with same size tyre? It seems rare to find.
Tyre shops are suggesting to change to:
1. 215/60R16
2. 205/55R16

I wonder if it is advisable? Also if we use stock rim, does it fit the above?

have you try to rev until redline and feel the engine roar?

for me road noise insulation is still more important, hopefully after changed to a new tyres it will feel better

what's the tyre model they give you?

how much discount you get?

this car is quite small compare to other C segment, after a while you should be able to get used to it, but do keep in mind our car engine hood is longer than other cars, so make sure you dont park or stop too close in front

I think 205/55R16 is a better match as the difference is just the aspect ratio (related to height of tyre).

No, still breaking in. Will try after first 1k service.

Tyre - Toyota proxies t1 sport 215/45r18

Thanks for the advice! , the SA gave me about 17k discount for this car. Probably the last showroom unit that I could find.

Thanks for comment
I am almost sold to the idea to upgrade the tires to 215/60 though. They say More grip = better drive

I can't find the car variance from Mazda website .

How many model does it have for 2016 / 2017 model ?

What is their market price ? Thx

toyo and toyota is different

that's a great deal there, 110k got high spec

LOL sorry, autocorrect.

Found a trick recently regarding the istop malfunction warning.

Yesterday, out of no where after doing my shopping, the warning symbol showed up. So double confirm from the error menu pointing to the istop malfunction. The car still can crank up without hesitation, so was a little perplexed.

So on the way back, got a long stretch of open road and drove rather swiftly averaging above 100km/h till i reached home. A slight sigh of relief as no need to call in tow truck.

I reached home, trying to figure out where could possibly go wrong. So i restart the car in accessory mode. And to my surprise, the warning symbol disappeared. Go check in the error log, also no longer listed. I fired up the car another time just to double confirm, also no more error message. Feeling much relieved, but still i took the precaution by putting the battery to charge with a dedicated lead acid charger.

So a short conclusion, if you see this error initially, it could mean the battery is low on charge but not to the point of dying. Just not enough charge to support stop/start function. Try giving the car a good run on the expressway for 15 to 30 minutes. A good long stretch of swift driving can help put more charge back to the battery.

Not a fool proof method, but give it a try before spending few hundred for a battery replacement.

The i-stop error indication just means that the battery is unable to support i-stop. It is still good enough for starting your car.

The i-stop error will disappear after using the car for a while. However it will re-appear again. This on/off error will continue for a while until the battery deteriorates further and it becomes permanently on. (For me it took about 2 months). However starting your car is still not affected. You can then decide whether to replace the battery or not.

Does getting a dedicated battery charger help? Been considering if it's worth the money..

Alright, thanks for the heads up. I'll continue monitoring it.

Actually yes. Lots of people get stuck in the misconception that batteries can only last 1.5-2 years, but actually can last almost double the time, even for normal non premium batteries.

If you have more than 1 car, and you can avoid 1 cycle of battery change, you get back your return through savings within 2 years. The more cars you have in the household, the faster the return. Just get a proper unit like Ctek/Bosch with electronic processors and cut off controls, not those unbranded/OEM desulfator that you can find on the internet cheap.

Interested too is it no need disconnect wiring battery just plug in & charge?

Yea man, never notice the importance of those safety until you need it.


Welcome to zoom zoom~*

Man you can search for Groovy / Amerguard
MR DIY have cheap and nice but doesn't have M3.

Yes, the warning will comes over again as your battery is getting weaker. As for my own experience, I drove until the warning stick on for sometimes and I then only went for a battery check, the reader show the battery was at around 51% and if you dare you still can drive your car for maybe few months to half year but without the I-stop function.

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Interesting.. I did a google search for Bosch car battery chargers and ended up with a couple choices. Could you kindly provide a link or more to specific models for consideration. Ideally, one also capable of reviving a dead battery. Thanks.

This post has been edited by voncrane: Jun 5 2017, 12:07 PM

Made a booking for GLS Aluminium on the 23rd of May, SA told me can get the car in June. After a week, loan approved and all, SA told me that Aluminium have to wait until August because there is no production for this colour in June and July???

Im getting a M3 sedan GVC soon. anyone know anywhere with good deal?

and to my understanding, its hard to churn out more power from the skyactiv. has anyone done any performance mod to it yet?