keep the myvi won't have much value being sold
when cars goes to used car dealer, some of them don't care for the car just leave it under the sun and never service.
just do bare minimum to keep the car presentable for customers.
then cars that are cared for nicely like yours would become unreliable or defects start to come out like windows rubber dying up and making the NVH not so great.
so if you're not hadap for that 8-12k for an old myvi.
keep it as a backup car or something your wife/mom can use to send kids to school or go pasar.
just follow your current upkeep schedule would be fine.

yes, proton usually always hype up their cars but rather nowadays it is not the cars but the people in proton
some of the salesman are dinosaurs from the old glory days so once the marketing team hype it up they just relax and sit in showroom wait for durian runtuh
their demeanour usually like....u wanna buy, buy lah, don't ask so much and make my life difficult

then there are the service people
although after geely took over they insisted to only work with super dealers that can afford to have 3s, no more showroom only
deswai u see now proton showroom is light blue theme from previous dark blue
i think although geely have insisted on improvements and better SOP
still imho only proton center of excellence is great others still many below par
if kena lazy gang write got service but actually didn't service that is going to be a problem
becoz newer cars from geely, e.g. x70, x90, x50, s70 all need TLC like conti else will quickly become problematic
if u drive iriz/saga abuse it still got tolerance but not the geely models.



what is aa/cp

Not reported doesn't mean anything especially in Malaysia.
Data is only there if someone input, the party that input is usually the insurance company after adjuster visit to approve repairs.
They can use smart words to avoid 'structural damage' but still big enough payout for repairs.
After that the owner just bring it to sell.
Maybe you can check /k always got accident videos mebbe this is one of them



oh

Hotel?

Trivalgo!

unfortunately this is far to common hearsay to be thought of as mere speculation or happen to certain individuals or unique cases.
when visiting the used car dealer lots you can have a fair idea what they're about.
if it is just a small lot with a few cars, and the cars are cheap for the perceived value, then most likely something fishy is going on.
usually these dealers will take stock from somewhere else or big absorbers like carsome.
they will create margin for themselves by adjusting the odometer especially if they find a car with decent interior and exterior, so the customer would be fooled to think it has lesser mileage.

2014 car
2019 service @ 177283km
= 2954km per month on average

that is quite high mileage, it could've been used by a salesman or grabcar.
however, what is done is done, it has been sometime so going back to the dealer to make noise isn't something they'd layan anyway.
gather your evidence, make a police report, make a case to small claims tribunal.
you might not get much but squeezing out some money from this effort is better than nothing since doing so doesn't require much money just some effort to compile and report.
if you get it, it is a bonus, don't expect much coz the limit is 5k.
anything you get can save aside for future repairs.
the car you got is pretty reliable but since the mileage is higher than expected you can opt to do a few things to starve off problems catching you by surprise

1. timing belt - change it / timing chain - service it
2. if no leaking then don't change the gaskets in the engine, but save up for it.
3. gear oil - change it.
4. throttle body - service it, especially if in the morning the rpm is constantly hanging at 2k during warm up
5. brake hose & fluid - change it
6. spark plugs - change it, while doing so ask them to check out the coils.
7. coils - if this needs to be changed might as well change the gaskets too
8. aircon - service it, if no issues don't change any parts
9. engine oil & filter - this should've been done when u did your last service so not an issue
10. fuel filter - change it if possible unless it is in a location which would increase the man hours then doing when doing major replacements like gaskets/coils

those would take care of the oily and mechanical bits.
get some silicon spray and service your auto windows.
other rubber seals for windows and boot may not need changing, or change only when needed.



personally the City HB (used to be honda jazz in this category) looks rather nice, like a baby a-class merc.
but it is true due to the sloping roof line the rear passenger headroom isn't as good as the sedan eventhogh they both have spacious legroom.

if you've done up your myvi to a stable state you can consider to keep it.
but if keeping it is too much heartache then just cash out and get another car.

i have owned a few generations of honda city, none had any major issues.
however, i do hear alot of people complaining of QC problems of late.
but there is 2 things about honda's which never gets fixed.
1. suspension & shocks - you'll always hear pomen say "kaki kereta is weak" it does a good job of balancing performance/comfort/reliability so you have a sportier ride, Toyota's are more towards the comfort/reliability so that's why you always hear people say "handling like noodle". it is a best effort and will fail over time especially if you live in an area with alot of speed bumps and potholes.
2. steering rack - ever since they transition from normal power steering to EPS (electric power steering) this problem does crop out now and then, especially now with our complain and cancel culture bringing it into the fore but it is just a 1% of unfortunate buyers.



there is a market collusion somewhere because you don't see market disruptive pricing for cars unlike any other industry.
then there is also protection, Toyota and Honda do have nice a-segment cars and i don't believe they don't have the economics of scale to price is low.
just check out the price of Honda Brio and Amaze in Thailand, it is cheaper and spec better than a Bezza/Axia.

never try, never know
usually used car lots will act like gangster

level 1: act dunno pretend to care but nothing gets done
level 2: u start to fedup they still tidak apa coz think u kenot do anything
level 3: make police report they either xapa or triggered start disturb u like monkey
level 4: sue or tribunal now they triggered and will start their smear campaign to push blame to you or say your evidence not strong



how about stationwagon?
true wagon which is a sedan car with long body enough to carry a coffin
not those mpv/crossover shite

sorry i haven't done so but i base my advice on common sense and information online.
win/lose - it doesn't take much effort on your side, and you can be sure that it will but that used car dealer on the map in the eyes of the authorities once more people come forward

2013 Mazda6 Wagon - of course if you have such a stigma the only response is one that has great design so it doesn't look like one, have great performance so it doesn't drive like one, and also reliable with decent upkeep so you don't become one of the inhabitants. I think Mazda6 wagon is a superb balance of all of the above points. And, yes usually because of this local stigma they're rare and usually bought by expats but the good news is that they're usually cheaper to buy than a sedan -- plus expats usually care for the cars better. Worry of no parts if kena accident, trust me if the accident is bad enough just write it off and buy something else with trade-in let your insurance guys do the legwork.

2013 Subaru Legacy Wagon - no doubt this car's upkeep will be on the higher side but the turbo and AWD performance is *chef kiss*, ain't got time to ponder about sohai's thinking i driving a hearse when i am having too much fun in this car. With the AWD you're assured this can has great traction at high speeds and corners like a hothatch. Yes, but upkeep is high so be warned -- join the owners forum to get to know the car more and where to maintain it on the cheap.

2011 Audi S4 Wagon Supercharger - An RS series it ain't but this is still more than enough power to match with the Subaru, put the RS4 bodykit and you have a handsome lil mobil.

2017 Merc CLA Wagon - this has more of a shooting brake look, it is newer and it is not the size one would use to be a hearse.

GLA is fairly reliable but it has a few recalls and 'quirks'.

Engine failure - The camshaft can fail on certain petrol engines in examples built between 16 July 2015 and 11 September 2015.

Front passenger airbags - In some cars made between 8 September 2014 and 7 November 2014 and between 1 August 2016 and 31 March 2017, the front passenger airbag might not deploy correctly in a collision.

Window airbags - An issue with cars built between 1 August 2016 and 31 March 2017 means that the window airbags might not deploy in a collision.

Risk of fire - the high-pressure fuel lines on some cars made between 28 October 2015 and 19 November 2015 could crack over time and allow fuel to leak into the engine bay.

Oil leak - Certain diesel models manufactured between 1 February 2014 and 30 November 2014 have been found to suffer with a faulty oil seal that can result in a leak.

Engine may stall - A faulty engine part on cars made between 1 October 2015 and 31 November 2015 could cause the car to go into limp home mode or for the engine to cut out completely.

Overheating starter motor - In the unlikely event the engine seizes up, the starter motor of cars built between 1 February 2014 and 28 February 2017 could overheat while repeatedly trying to start the engine.

NOx recall - All diesel models were subject to a voluntary recall in 2017 to apply software updates that aimed to reduce NOx emissions on any engine made before 2015.



Actually Proton RV overall is bad.
After the era of Mitsubishi clones RV for Proton dropped especially during the tail end when the QC issues become too apparent.
Waja onwards Proton RV, spec and QC shitty but since it is national car with big user base RV maintained to a reasonable level but you can always see segment vs segment P2 cars do better.

I think you over estimate your myvi resale value.
if you see that figure in mudah at least deduct 7k from it then you'll have the used car dealer's offer to you
45k is what they selling not what they buying unless you do private sale but at 45k most will be too lazy to do the leg work to do own loan

cars and budget you aiming at will have many drawbacks.

myvi = handling like noodle, seats like MR DIY sponge, etc.
iriz = bad fc, bad rv, punch cvt lag

etc.

upgrade your budget to japanese brand b-segment then you have a 200,000km car

trust me when you go from 2018 myvi to full spec yaris/vios/city there is a huge gap in quality above that is mazda2 but i find them rather cramp

This post has been edited by zenix: Jun 14 2024, 09:35 PM

send to mechanic for once over, if the usual seals good and not leaking not an issue.



2011 Toyota Rush - shared platform with Avanza, shared drivetrain with Vios but looks better than most on the outside, the inside is typical boring Toyota. Ride and handling nothing to write home about. Value for money? yes



2019 Toyota Yaris - either a Vios or Yaris is a good choice because they're complete cars with very little drawbacks, however if you prefer SUV's then that is another case altogether. Comparing Vios to Yaris, I think the Yaris looks nicer and is more practical in terms of having to load stuff into the car.

2019 Subaru XV - if you looking for a C-segment size SUV which isn't basic then you can consider the XV, it is well appointed the interiors showing better class than B-segment SUV's like BRV or Rush. However, it is AWD so higher petrol bills but you have great grip when taking corners.



it surely has more power and better fuel economy than you waja

if u only consider purchase price of coz it is cheap
i mean i can buy a used bentley for 90k new it is 400k but i know the maintenance is going to be a killer.



bezza is an a-segment car
you're going to c-segment car
upkeep alone will be a huge difference.

typical service for a bezza can settle under rm150 or under rm100.
lowest for c-segment car especially 2000cc forte your cost is doubled coz the cubic capacity is doubled.
so that's a budget of rm200 minimum.
and your bezza using punny wheels the rubber is cheaper.
c-segment you're looking at a minimum of 16" rubber



ask him a honest question.
he kept it for 10 years because he truly loves it or after settle 9years or 7 years loan the depreciation didn't leave him much RV to buy another car, or he rather drive it until it rots then only buy new.



perodua business model is to make cars for the people.
they make reliable and cheap to maintain cars.
they make their cars look ganas with bodykit but the cars themselves are quite mild.

don't hold your breath for perodua ever making anything exciting.

you want excitement there will be additional cost involve.
let's say for example a BMW.
new purchase price being high, put that aside let's talk about maintenance.
german philosophy is you follow the maintenance schedule to the letter, e.g. if your tire still got 80% treadwear left if the service center say change, you change.
if a japanese car usually mechanic considering your pocket will tell you to drive until a part kaput then only replace that ONE part.
you drive a german car until a part kaput, you have to replace a few other parts connected to it.

koreans make great turbo's because in their home country it is diesel biased.
diesel biased thus always gotta use turbo coz diesel good low end shitty top end.
korean turbo diesel or turbo petrol are decent.
n/a is like .... ok lahhh

oh your 2011 honda city is actually one of the better ones.
it uses a 5AT slushbox instead of CVT.
reliability better, however power lag and heavier fuel consumption due to gear ratios might be a small price to pay

2015 Honda Civic FB 2.0 - this is the model before Civic Ketam, this is less appreciated because it doesn't have a Type-R brother and doesn't look as handsome and timeless as the FD. FD does look better but too many abused ones in the market and above 10 years old kinda hard to get a loan. I recommend this, this is the last Civic you can get with 2000cc engine after this the top spec comes with the 1.5 turbo, I'd recommend u take a proven 2000cc non-turbo engine. The gearbox is no CVT bullshit a proper 5 speed auto slushbox with good ratios.

2019 Proton Perdana 2.0 - buying this perdana is a sure way to get a cheap 8gen Honda Accord. Spare parts for this is still abundant unless you need specific Perdana bodypanels. You can get a decently new one for Bezza full spec money. It is a comfortable and pocket friendly D-segment sedan. Diamond in the rough only punters know how to get a good deal.



If you only consider 1600cc below for c-segment you're targeting pre-2010 cars, or post 2017 cars with turbo.
I don't recommend for either coz one is too old and might become a money pit.
Another is turbo might be more trouble than it is worth if u r just considering cheaper roadtax.

Forte, Cerato and Suprima fall into that category of still having 1600cc post 2010 but I can't recommend any.
They're not that expensive to maintain maybe a 10-20% premium over japanese makes when u finding certain and specific parts for it.
Minor service is just as cheap as the others.
However, they don't drive all that well and fuel economy is quite terrible.

nope
2006 onwards most move from 1600cc to 1800cc because of emissions and safety regulations adding weight so cars need more power
only those that weren't in the curve still sold 1600cc n/a
under powered, under safety but usually pour a lot of accessories onto it, usually hyundai/kia style

go online to website like mudah, carlist, etc. to have an idea of your cars resale value.
there is a huge difference between brands.

e.g. you bought a top spec toyota vios vs chery omoda for 99k
both cars same loan amount and interest rate and tenure
however after 7 years your settlement value for toyota vios is 25k but resale value 40k, vs chery omoda settlement value is 25k but resale value only 20k
this is why malaysians generally target resale value when considering their new car purchase

used car dealer is still a business so whatever he buy from you he has to make sure it is sellable.
so they normally offer you 10k less than the selling price.
this is because they need to do some touch up of the car if it has issues, pay staff salary, then hassle money to get paperworks done on jpj/insurance/bank side.

you can sell the car yourself to try and get that 60k
but you will need to do the legwork to settle things for your customer.
also depending on your customer they might call you for every minor issue they have with the car until forever



bankers of course layan walk in they dun need to pay hassle money to 3rd party.
they will guide u and u just need to submit all the documents they need.

from my experience best is CIMB or PBB

it really depends on how much you got to spend vs how much you willing to spend.
cars under 5k but relatively reliable would be:

old wira/satria/saga are still good, especially the manuals they're bullet proof.
however they're kinda soft so a fender bender looks like a disaster but parts are cheap.

waja/gen2/persona of that generation might be a hit or miss because of QC issues.
however they were made tougher so survivability in a crash is higher.

got budget a bit try to hunt for civic ek/es.

your best bet is always something from perodua stable.
i would recommend first gen 1.0 manual myvi.
don't take kenari or kelisa too soft.



i think i have a friend with a rotting jimny awaiting someone to project it.
might get it cheap.

u got access to brunei export cars?



no more.
it could be possible before 1/8/24.



don't touch shitty nissan hybrids.

don't even consider shitty pugs.

forrester and xv can be considered but they're known for being thirsty cars due to all time AWD

ayam bag guys!