BMW > Merc > Lexus = sorted by "burn a hole in pocket" criteria

Bezza should be more reliable, sourced from either Toyota/Daihatsu.

i dun even know what biz to do.

LOL! because Vios, City, Myvi, and the rest of the below 70k cars the owners have this 2" mentality, scared to be belittled by more expensive cars so they act tough and fake their car performance wif garang2 bodykit and exhaust

yours is a bloody FTO don't kacau

BMW's in general have smaller cabin space, sportier look, better handling.
Merc's in general have more airy cabin, matured look, comfortable to drive.
Lexus well luxurious cabin with reliable toyota tech under the hood

I'll think about that and reply when I can.

I don't mind the last two but I would have to be by my own terms but knowing our auto industry that is impossible.
Once I'm there, there are things I'm sure I've to keep quiet about.

Naza is pretty huge in PJ.

hey guys the it dept gave me a lousy keyboard so not in the mood for long replies

it's a magazine?

yes, but really depends on the banker.

Well, now is an exciting time for people like you.
You can go with the obvious choice of Axia, or consider Bezza from Perodua.
Proton should be reacting with their new Saga and Persona soon as well.
Couple all this together there would be big discounts for the current Saga SV.

search for "unreg"

yeah we can never be 100% certain but here are a few tips:

1. service record based on the original manual and service booklet.
2. the car behavior during test drive.....engine/gearbox/handling.
3. interior condition.

A 2009 car at only 23k you should already get a clue about the car.
Pros: It is a good car and specced well.
Cons: Resale value probably is near rock bottom so don't worry about it sliding anymore but unless you trade-in you might not be able to sell this car in the future, maintenance and parts i'm not too sure about Hyundai cars but you can either talk to your local mechanic or try to email this guy to find out the cost and see if it is something affordable to you or not.

RICE ROCKETS

haha....then i've to really do research to vet everything
then become the most hated person in malaysia.

Size: C=ASX, XV, D=XT, CX5, Out, Fore

Firstly, you need to decide on a size.

If you owe bank 15k
But trade-in only worth 10k
You still need to pay 5k to the bank

If you owe bank 15k
But trade-in worth 20k
You can cash out 5k or put as deposit for new car

Nowadays with EPS (electric power steering) if there is an electrical issue the steering would also be effected.

(further information from Mr. Google below)

Key Mechanism
Not every steering wheel problem occurs when you have the transmission engaged and are heading down the road. Sometimes, drivers report that their steering wheel stays locked even after inserting the key into the ignition. When that happens, the car probably cannot be started let alone driven. More than likely the key assembly has worn out and needs to be replaced. However, before calling your auto mechanic, try to move the wheels to the left and to the right as sometimes the steering column "catches," a problem that can be resolved if you jiggle the wheel.

Lock Pin
General Motors issued a pair of recalls for the C5 Chevrolet Corvette (1997-2004 models) due to problems with locked steering. In addition to being locked while starting, owners complained that in some cases their cars could be driven but with no control of steering. This problem is due to a lock pin that fails to withdraw fully, allowing contact between the pin and lock plate. Visit the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA ) website (see Resources) for information about recalls #04006B and #04006C or call your Chevrolet dealer.

Rock solid engineering and would be cheap to maintain.
However, parts for certain things are getting hard to come by nowadays.
You might need to get OEM/compatibles or used parts.

Worst thing about cars this old is getting one which is in decent condition as getting one in original stock condition would be like finding the holy grail.
Just aim for good condition with not many things to fix up would be best.

2013 Proton Saga - i'm in favor to getting something which is newer yet within budget and can almost do everything you'll need for your new life. Unless you're not so good at parking you should always opt for a sedan because you'll have more space for moving house or outstation trips -- or if suddenly an unplanned family suddenly emerged and you'll need space for baby stroller and stuff like that. Saga although only a B-segment would of course fall short in terms of power and comfort from the Waja CPS but it is expected to be a much more reliable and cheaper car to upkeep over the same period. Being newer also more less likely things would go wrong plus by the time this saga came into the market Proton has reduced QC issues to industry norms, Waja and batches of Gen2 are likely to still suffer from a teething period where Proton rationalised their suppliers and final QC. Safety wise it should be still quite okay for such a price range and relatively short distance drive per day.

really depends on what you want to focus on and what is your job about.
if you're in sales/marketing thus you'll be using the car more often thus you want to lower the cost / learn to lower the cost of car ownership over time.
and got more "ular time" to fix it up as well.

if you're more office based then you might want to get something boring and reliable in terms of maintenance.

2002 Nissan Serena 1.6 (A) - i think it is quite underpowered though.

he wants a bangbus, dun make him say it out

"time is money" is a relative point.

here is a simplified example:

2007 Proton Wira Sedan 1.5 (A) @ 8.8k

2005 Perodua Kenari 1.0 (A) @ 9.9k

The parameters are for a used automatic car below RM10k Proton vs Perodua.
I decided to use the Proton Wira as the benchmark.
Thus when I started the search for Perodua it has to be a Myvi, I was pretty confident there would be no Myvi of the same year and price as the Wira.
I was surprised I couldn't find any Myvi below 10k, then I changed to Kenari and I had to roll from 2007 to 2005 only found two units.
I chose this one because it looks in stock condition although it is more expensive.

The safe answer would probably be the Kenari for most people based on your argument above, it is quite true that is what most people think anyway.
However, not only it is more expensive it is also older by 2 years.
If based on minimum usage per day of 20km x 365 days x 2 years = 14,600km additional at minimum.
For Japanese cars which service intervals are usually by 5000km, that's 3 additional service intervals.
How well it was maintained and how much additional wear & tear the components had to endure is unknown.
So if we take the worst case scenario it is better to get a younger car which has a lesser chance for the owner to f-up things.

Would the Kenari be more reliable eventhough it is two years older?
Well if both cars were maintained equally well then yes it probably would.
Around that time Proton was still trying to sort out it's QC mess so there would still be some units sold to customer with subpar QC.

Would the 2007 Proton Wira be a better buy?
It is C-segment vs the A-segment Kenari.
It is a sedan vs the hatchback Kenari with almost no boot space.
In the likelihood of an accident, being inside the slightly bigger Wira would give a slight advantage over the Kenari, as both were from an era where safety wasn't an important factor in cars at our region so the only passive safety aspect is size to buffer the impact.

If one needs a car that can do everything for that budget and not just an A-B (office to home) vehicle then I'd lean more towards the Wira.
It is bigger, got room to grow if buying/upgrading to another car isn't an option for the next 5-10 years.
1500cc engine makes it just good enough for interstate highway travel.
the 1000cc engine on the Kenari can bring you from KL to Penang for sure but at the risk of higher fuel consumption, limited to no overtaking, high NVH and poor handling would result in a tired driver and longer hours on the road. Longer hours on the highway just increases ones risk/exposure to accidents/anything.

True the Wira is rough around the edges and although may not be that reliable but fixes are easy and relatively inexpensive.
That time spent at workshops learning about cars would of course add to ones experience.
Experience learnt is never wasted.
It can also be something to help one based their decision on future car buy.

Whether to take it safe buy an over priced reliable car from Toyota, Honda, Perodua (new/used) or look at the other options from Nissan, Mitsubishi, BMW, etc.

the engine is at the nose.
the transmission is between the driver row and passenger first row.
i recall it fits 7 with dynamic seating.
would be under 20k.

what you using it for?
what is your daily drive distance?
what is your job?
how much you can afford for upkeep a month?

Inspira = you can consider but it would be 35k at least for 2010 models. however since you're more budget conscious i don't recommend this.
Polo Sedan = although you can get a 2012 model for about 40k, that would be on the upper end of your budget with nothing left to spare, and again for your being budget conscious this might not be a good idea.
Insight/Fiesta/Cruze = not the cheapest and easiest to maintain.
City = the one within your budget is the older one which uses a CVT, I don't really recommend you'd get that one being budget conscious.
Vios = is a good buy but of course the problem is the RV, RV is too good so you're bound to pay a premium price if you want to get a younger car.

2013 Nissan Almera 1.5(A) @ 37k - this might be stretch to the limits of your budget but the good reason is the Almera is a pretty solid car and it isn't really very old, a 3 year old car. I've checked around the Almera is pretty cheap to maintain and not very fussy. Space wise it has a decent boot size and good rear leg room for passengers, so if you can't afford a C-segment this is as good as it gets. About the only downside is the performance -- with the stretched body and a pathetic engine -- it is good enough for daily driving to office, family duties and outstation in relative comfort but without a powerful engine highway speed overtaking isn't something you should do often and if you like powerful cars (or light cars with decent engines like Kelisa/Wira) you've gotta change your driving pattern else you'll always be stepping on the throttle to force it to pick-up faster which just makes the gearbox drop a gear and push the car forward at high rpm burning more fuel than you actually need (unless for overtaking).

2008 Nissan Latio 1.6 (A) - on the other end of the scale if you're looking for something very budget conscious you can consider a car like this, of course within your budget you'll also see younger Latio's and Latio's better spec like having a 1800cc engine, bodykit, etc. Those are also good but let me talk about this car incase in your mind you want a car that can do everything yet is the cheapest in town. So this is a 2008 model which means it will be 10 years old in 2 years time, plus even if you take a modest 5 year loan to finish it off quickly you're still looking at a car which is 13 years old before you fully own it (but it would be a cheap under 400 a month repayment), will it matter and will it last? It is quite reliable and the Japanese engineering put into it will also mean parts are usually cheap. For the matter of parts you can either buy the originals from TCM/Nissan Malaysia or compatible/OEM imported from else where in the region or Japan. Since the car is way beyond the warranty period no need to get the originals and usually those OEM parts from Japan are of a higher quality standard. Find a used car in good condition and it should be quite cheap to maintain it from then on, do note that things like absorbers, mountings, and bearings are consumable items which are bound to fail at some point so since you're buying a used car do take into consideration the cost of these parts to be replaced somewhere within a year or two since it is reaching the 10 year mark as even the most resilient part the suspension springs are only rated for 8-10 years but usually last longer.

you should never fully trust them

why not you stick with axia for city driving and take a bus back to your hometown?

2014 Suzuki Kizashi - you think too small, why not get a superb car like this? Viva to Bezza might be an upgrade from going from Viva to a Kizashi would be like a caveman going from riding dinosaurs to flying the Millennium Falcon. If you can afford such an upgrade in terms of upkeep (fuel, tax, and maintenance) why not? If you can't then see below.

14/15 VW Polo Sedan - get a nice low mileage pre-reg demo car from VW, you'd still get fully warranty and assurance that the car was maintained properly at VW, if it wasn't then you can always take it up with VW, if you got any problems buying from a used car dealer or individual then you're hard on luck. And it is a much better value for you, although it is technically still a B-segment but it has some C-segment qualities such as it's large size, comfortable & classy interior, rear aircon vents, etc.

It is a very new car, don't expect much discounts for it.
Unless you're getting a pre-reg or stock clearance model.
I'd say the asking price is reflective of that, a price i'd say is astronomical, might as well top-up for a new car.
67k with higher interest rates or 80k with lower new car interest rates....do the calculations the net sum might be the same

Oh and don't put so much hope in the SC.
Their job is to service car not help people check car before they buy a used mazda.

i say kenot fully trust, not kenot trust.

When you buy the car you need to transfer insurance and roadtax to your name anyway so that extra 1500 isn't really a deal breaker.

The mileage on the car is quite high, plus it is a 2009 car, meaning in 3 years it will be a 10 year old car.
By then the mileage will surely be over 200k km.
I'd say the stuff he put in is probably nice but quite worthless.
I'd say he is a guy that has already fully utilised the car and looking for his next buy.
A hand me down like that from a family member is fine but to shell out 40k for it, maybe not.

2014 Nissan Almera - lets you want a better car around 40k why not pick a car like this, in terms of fuel consumption they're probably equally just as terrible but the Almera is more spacious with a stretched rear so more leg room for people sitting behind. It comes with what looks like OEM bodykit and sport rims as well, why not consider that? Not having leather seats isn't really a deal breaker because usually the extra RM2000-RM4000 for the leather option when people buy a new car is fitted by 3rd party appointed companies so that if anything happen you'll still have warranty but if you fit your own leather seats and something happens like airbag deployed then they won't cover it -- anyway besides warranty issues the leather seats doesn't come from "honda" it's 3rd party and usually the quality is decent but if you want better ones you can fit it yourself. Unless you're talking about BMW's or Merc's those that come with leather as standard are fitted at the factory is it is 100% original.

2009 Nissan Latio - if you don't mind a 2009 car then why not choose the Latio it is much cheaper at only 25k so ridiculously cheap your monthly probably around rm200 only...benefits of the Latio? bla bla what i usually say

I cannot see the first link, the second link is a mazda5 mpv i see.
That Mazda is a good car, is well spec'ed and depreciated alot from it's original price.
Quite a good buy but of course the only thing you might have to content with is the maintenance.
It isn't as common as an Avanza but not as rare as a Scenic, so expect maintenance and parts to be above average in price if you compare to anything from Toyota (budget asswipes like to talk about this) but be reminded you're in a car much nicer to drive and be inside than most Toyota's of this price range.

Wish got rear aircon, stream doesn't.

2012 Nissan X-Gear - this is the 5 seater version of the Nissan Livina, same platform but shorter only. I think it fits your uses well, although it doesn't come with ISOFIX points for baby seats there is generous amount of space in this car for baby car seats. It is a car with a tall roof so no worries for you getting bumped around on the inside. Maintenance for this is pretty straightforward and doesn't cost much because it is using quite basic technology -- no fancy dual clutch or CVT transmission to muck it up. ISOFIX seats are only now becoming standard equipment so if you want them the few cars that have them are VW cars and Honda Jazz Hybrid. Some of those can fit your budget but might be a pain in the maintenance front.

Elgrand and Elysion imho are much better in terms of build quality, class and features but upkeep is going to be high. Alphard would be the cheapest to upkeep for this range of luxo mpv.

2011 Honda Civic 1.8 - don't muck about with B-segment cars anymore with that kind of budget, get a good car. The Civic FD although it is 2 generations older than the current one it is more handsome and reliable -- the new turbo is nice but there have been issues with it and Honda is trying to cover up. Well this one doesn't have those push button start and keyless entry like Nissan or Korean cars but if you like those you can buy the crap shit Korean cars with lots of accessories and features but cry when you go service the car the maintenance is expensive then feel like someone kick your nuts when your Korean 2000cc lump loses to a Myvi at the highway. What this Civic offers you is power, reliability, and cheap maintenance (for it's segment don't expect rm50 per service like a kancil). I purposely show you this advert with the stock condition FD1 (1800cc) because it is better to always buy a car as stock as possible because owners that modify their cars aren't good thing for used car buyers plus the FD1 is superb in terms of FC and power for highway is not bad.....you can go 200kmh without noticing the speed.

Well the two things that the Latio would excel at if you're talking about it as a package in terms of used car is that it is the cheapest c-segment you can buy which isn't too old or pocket burner to maintain.

You can go for the pre-facelift 2007-2009 models floating around the market at 20-27k
You can go for the newer or better spec models (in terms of accessories) floating around the market at 32k-50k

In that range there are competitors but the 3 things of young car + cheap maintenance + cheap to buy, usually pushes my favor for it.

Of course a Vios might be cheaper to maintain and might be more reliable but due to better RV it is always more older for the same price vs other cars.

The city i'd say give it a miss because the better one with the CVT is too old, the one just before the current one has a better interior and highway stability but fc is terrible.

Slim pickings for this price point but let's try...

1999 Proton Wira 1.5 - this is one of the few that from visual inspection only i think it hasn't been in an accident or the mechanic did a superb job, the shut lines are nice and clean and the paint job looks worn yet uniform so most likely original paint. As for the interior i can't really see without pictures but stay away with cars that have been modified.

1996 Toyota Camry - looks in decent condition but the bodykit and paint is surely not original, plus he installed an NGV kit onto the car, well i'm not sure what maintenance penalty that would mean but it is a quite a cheap car to maintain if in stock condition.

Mileage quite ok for the age but it is 10 years old, if you sell it earlier easier for people to loan it, now you're pretty much stuck with it until it depreciate to around less than 20k for people to afford it as a cash buy.

might be my last reply for sometime....busy

Roughly....this is my feel of the market prices for maintenance and parts.

Honda : some models cheap to maintain but some aren't but the good thing is honda always provides the latest technology in their cars. so they're actually value for money coz cheap + new tech. that's why this brand is on top.
Toyota = Nissan : cheapest to maintain and usually very reliable but most of the time hardly can get latest technology from either of their offerings.
Mazda = Suzuki = Mitsubishi = Kia = Hyundai: due to economics of scale they aren't as cheap as the tier above them in general but some models are cheap.
Subaru = Isuzu = Ford: due to economics of scale they aren't as cheap as the tier above them in general but some models are cheap.

You're talking about which model?
Latio facelift not much difference except grille looks abit different, and the 1800cc engine option also available on the hatch.

well, if all else fails just remove the NGV and sell the kit to someone else.

Estima: that old better forget it.
Wish: The older rounder one or the newer sleeker one?

If you want Toyota can consider the new Sienta?
If used car I think the Innova is a decent buy but no sliding doors and interior comfort is just slightly better than Avanza

u wanna buy a used hyundai for 92k?



here are some cars you can buy for 90k

2011 Nissan Juke 1.5(A) TURBO + Push Start

2010 Toyota RAV4 2.4(A) Recaro seats!

2016 Toyota Wish 1.8(A) Facelift

those are pretty good cars.

"salesman" not company.
generally all big used car companies have to do business above board.
especially guys that wannabe the best examples in the industry like Topmark & MUV.
however, the issue is the salesman.
usually nice and honest salesman don't last in the industry coz kenot cari makan.
gotta becareful of the slick bastards that will over charge you or not give you much discount.

or those sole proprietors at the road side....those be-careful 9 9

because they are selling used cars their stock is always floating.
it is quite a pain to keep updating.
usually the ones cannot sell are always on the website.
i'd suggest you go to the nearest showroom if you wanna see fresh stock.
sometimes the better ones already booked.

1997 Proton Putra - buy this and be happy, you've got a decent car which isn't too expensive to maintain, yet is rare and cool enough to get street cred from girls and guys.

People buy recons all the time.
Just make sure they give you a warranty for the main stuff like aircon/engine/gearbox and you should be ok.

No money don't bother you're going to dig a deeper hole for yourself.
Plus the new persona isn't guaranteed to be better than what you have now.
You might end up with something more expensive to maintain.

Recon EvoX aren't cheap.
Why not go for Sti around 130k can get one
Wish is a good choice, plenty of spare parts and models out there you can get something really worth your money. Some of the unregs start at 80k but be-careful of scams.

2013 Honda CRZ 1.5(M) - when you're talking about cars that are quite fun, manual and cheap to service this is the first thing that pops into my mind. Reason is that 1500cc is a pretty common engine among Honda, it is the same stuff that is inside the City and Jazz albeit with a slightly different configuration. So abundant parts means it is cheaper to maintain. Speed, performance, handling might not be as sharp as true sports cars but it is alright if fun is more self pleasure than traffic light drag racing.

SSS - performance and handling isn't too shabby but it ain't got the kind of top end speed and low end grunt to be a real sports car, again another self satisfaction car like the CRZ but has abit more performance built into it but it will cost you because this guy is rare over here so parts ain't going to be easy to find unless you go back to 3S and that usually means it will cost a bomb.

FFST not going to be as reliable as the two above, performance would be better slightly than the SSS but not by that much, but maintenance would be about there too. Basically, not much point to think about FFST as youo don't get bang for your buck.

P208GTI is as your've suspected this list is going from bad to worst. The end.

2013 Audi TT - if you ask me why not get straight to the point? You want manual? ppfftt! c'mon you ain't never going to shift faster than a DCT, worried about DCT failure? FYI only pariah dry clutch DCT's like the ones in Fiesta and Golf TSI's fail the wet clutch DCT's in GTI's and Evo's are superb A real sports car with turbo so yeah handling/performance/speed is head and shoulders above everything above but maintenance? Yeah it would probably cost you about the same or slightly more expensive to maintain that 208 GTI in Malaysia but the benefits are worth it. If you search around you might get unreg/recon at around 100k so you're not even buying a second hand car, you get to buy it with cheaper new car interest rates and usually unreg/recon condition is much better than second hand plus they usually give you a limited 1 year warranty which is better than nothing.

I'm thinking CRZ but you've got a bunch of contradictory information.

CRZ doesn't have a short throw stick, imho it is a "shampoo girl" coupe that has aspirations to be a sports car or looks like a sports car but isn't really a sports car. It is pretty quick because of it's size but it is lugging around that extra weight from the IMA (hybrid) system so it isn't really an MX5/Miata kinda deal, infact it is so cheap is partly because of the hybrid system as it gets tax breaks else it would be expensive because the tax for coupe/2 door body types in malaysia is pretty high which is why even the entry level Scirocco 1.4 is way expensive. But then what makes it cheap in taxes to sell in many countries also makes it not as an exciting of a car to drive because of the additional weight and also because it is supposed to be an eco friendly hybrid it doesn't come with a environmentally barbaric K20 lump which the chassis can handle. But then again I do think it is something suitable for you because for all intents and purposes it is a cheap car to maintain, fuel consumption is very good, and it is quiet.

Cause I can't think of of anything else which meets all your criteria and isn't rock hard, loud and thirsty.

so it is a brand new one or used one?
aren't used ones around that price anyway?

LOL....read properly lah.
Probably Teana after discounts.

If low budget is the priority then you should instead look for older Mitsubishi era Proton's.
I know some might say that Perodua cars would tick more boxes in terms of being a student car, it is smaller thus easier to park for newbie drivers, fuel efficient for poor student budget, and of course cheap to maintain. But I find Perodua cars of that era woefully unsafe. I know it might be an extreme example but remember that Kelisa that got split into half when a construction equipment fell on it? Granted not many cars and owners would survive such an event but I've seen too many Kelisa's in bad accidents lately thus it goes against my conscious to suggest such a car.

1997 Proton Wira 1.6XLI - this would be about your budget level and I tihnk it is a good car, firstly body parts for Wira is literally littered around the country, no problems getting door, glass, aircon parts, etc. Those are the common stuff this particular model is the 1.6xli not the 1.5gli (which is more common). The big difference? Power and gears. 1600cc of course is more powerful and also the automatic gearbox has 4 gears while the 1500cc only have 3 gears, so that means overall you've got less gears and higher chance that fuel economy sucks. The bad news is that the 1.6xli is less common than the 1.5gli so expect to buy parts at slightly more expensive prices if it is specifically for the 1.6xli which is mainly just anything for the engine/gearbox. Overall, it ain't going to really hurt your pocket that much compared to the 1.5gli but you'll enjoy better performance and fuel economy everyday with the 1.6xli, service and parts is just 1-2 days per year

Haha....what kinda sound you expect?
If you're talking about the rumbling of the boxer engine isn't your thing.
News is the newer ones don't really make that kinda sound anymore.
Especially v10 really sound like a regular engine, however if you want sound you can always change to Remus exhaust for that sharp F1 kinda sound or Arkapovic for that raspy boxy rumble.

Funny thing is the Kembara although shares many similarities with the Myvi, it isn't as cheap to maintain, it isn't as powerful and fuel consumption is terrible in comparison.

Don't buy death traps from Perodua.



The only older Perodua that is decent is the Myvi.

here is an example...

A = axia, attrage
B = vios, city, almera, myvi
C = altis, civic, sylphy
D = camry, accord, teana

there is a huge difference between 'sporty car' and sportscar

as long as you think it is a good deal, then it is fine.
don't dig anymore.

you can choose a cheap and older perodua, but the safety aspects are so bad i wouldn't want you to die a horrible death driving one of those.

older koreans and china cars are the same too, look at this 2005 Chery A160 it is only 6.5k to buy but is it any good? Well that depends on what you're looking for -- a transport or a coffin.

or you can tell me what is on your mind instead of letting us guess what you want.

I'm thinking the new one is only going to be a facelift since this body style hasn't been around that long, but i don't know why i just don't like it....maybe also because of the look of it.....but also because unlike honda's in the past this one just recycles the previous earth dreams engine....usually every new honda has new tech unless it is a facelift.

the new perdana is a rebadged honda accord, ever thought about it?

Actually these two are in the same price bracket for used cars because they've got crapshit gearbox, at first I thought it was just a matter of driving style, but more digging I found out the problem was the design instead of driving style which causes the gearbox failure.

The facelift for both these models have a gearbox cooler but it doesn't fix the root problem it is only a run about way of keeping it in check.

If you're looking for something cheap and not too old, look around for Nissan X-Gear & Latio.

Is that someone a car salesman trying to get you to buy their cars instead?

The biggest difference between recon Wish and the ones sold by UMW Toyota Malaysia is the engine.
Recon's are using a 1800cc lump while the local ones is a 2000cc lump.
Gather to take a guess the model code for the 1800cc lump they using?
It is the 1ZZ-FE, the same one that's fitted into the local Altis 1.8

So if got accident need body parts....eh got local wish with identical body parts you can either get from UMW or chop shop, Wish is too abundant on our roads this isn't an issue.

So if got engine problem how? Well since it uses same engine as the Altis no problem getting parts for it. Wish/Estima/Alphard/Vellfire are the best supported recon cars in Malaysia, also because of the way Toyota manufactures cars there are alot of cross compatible components.

If you buy a recon car like Fiat 500, yeah you're pretty much out of luck since cross compatibility is limited plus also Fiat aren't common here so finding anything that can be cross compatible is hard. So parts that suppliers carry for specific for this particular model and they gotta keep it in their warehouse until someone needs it, then they'll charge a premium for it.

For recons of Toyota/Honda/BMW/Merc usually isn't an issue cross compatibility and abundance of other models lowers down cost by a tremendous amount. Like the high end recon Toyota Mark X and Lexus IS250 are practically the same car under the skin.

2003 Toyota Altis 1.8 - the 1800cc is the top spec no need to worry what ABCDEFG spec so come on, what are you waiting for? You want ABS? Please nigga....Altis give you EBD and BA as well. You want airbags? Altis got. You want power? 1ZZ-FE VVT-i 1.8 DOHC 16V I4 which is cheap to maintain and reliable isn't enough? Significantly better than anything a Proton can muster up.

However do check if the car has been sent for a recall fix yet. The issue involves the engine control module, and includes the potential for it to develop a crack on the module's circuit board, which can result in the car not starting, the transmission shifting harshly, or the engine stalling. But that's mostly for the 2005-2008 models in America.

The kinda maintenance that a VW Polo 1.2 would need is about the same as one would need to maintain a C-segment Japanese, so it usually makes more sense to recommend those instead of the Polo. Not everyone is willing to pay that kinda money to buy and maintain something which is a segment smaller.

Like someone asked before which to choose between Teana & Sylphy, obviously the Teana is D-segment and is better overall but maintenance and prices aren't always equal, so happen that those two models are priced around the same in the used car market but the maintenance for the Teana is always going to be much more expensive than the Sylphy.

If you want my 2sen then just buy a cheap car then put money down in for a house of your own or save money using Amanah Saham or Wawasan, don't be like those people that gaya wayang habis when go out with friends or dating but other than that makan roti kosong + air kosong to pay for it.

2000 Honda Civic EK - get a personal loan to pay for this car then enjoy, you will not get anything that balances power, performance, cheap maintenance and versatility (sedan with seating for 5) in one car -- oh it must be stock too that's why I searched mudah for the unmodded model to show you.

2008 Renault Clio 1.6 Paddle Shifter @ RM30k - yeap this 30k little pocket rocket depreciated so fast it depreciated even before arriving in Malaysia so now you can buy it at only 30k, being a renault you know it is going to be performance orientated even on their ordinary models. I don't think you can find a better handling car with paddle shifters for this price which you can buy with a new car loan. It is probably the cheapest recon around and they'll give you a one year warranty which is good as 30k only you should be able to finish the loan before the warranty expires -- if you can't then it is okay usually if nothing major happens in the first year then you didn't buy a lemon thus any part changes in the future are all part of regular maintenance with wear & tear. It might not be cheap to maintain but should be cheaper than the Polo and it is cheaper to buy too so for me it is a win.

2009 Perodua Viva - instead of getting crap shit old stuff like the Kenari which has high mileage and lacking safety features why not consider something newer around your budget range of below 10k you can choose a car like this. Normally, I'd recommend something better overall but I don't know if you're ready to learn more about cars to maintain them better so you can choose one abit more manja but better spec, or choose something like this from Perodua which is more user friendly.

2004 Nissan Sentra 1.6 - an overall better car in terms of comfort, power, size, safety and many things more. However, maintenance is going to cost much more than a Viva. Typical simple maintenance is at least going to need RM150, where the Viva you could get away with using really cheapo stuff and promotions workshops usually do like RM50/66 promotion for service. Safety doesn't come cheap but when you need it, it pays for itself.

Okay let me butt in to explain in something more understandable.

Let's say you're buying a condo.

On the same floor, good facing, and same price.

The Teana is a 1 room studio and the Sylphy regular studio without a room.

Which would you buy?

This post has been edited by zenix: Sep 2 2016, 11:41 AM

Latio with boot isn't hard to find.
But really what do you really want?
You're everywhere from sedan to mpv.

Innova is based on a special body on platform designed by Toyota so they can produce the innova, hilux and fortuner with minimal retooling.
Nothing really to shout about.
It is big and you get the space.
But material quality is lowered down to become cheaper.
Compare Wish and Innova interior is a huge difference in refinement eventhough the Wish is supposed to be a segment lower.

About that 3rd gen Proton Perdana.
Those were like CKD Honda Accords but only badge change from Honda to Proton.
Those for government use only.
Don't think it will be available in the market anytime soon.
But the real Honda Accord which is similar to that is only about 50-60k nowadays.