FYI

before 2006 i325 is actually a 2.5
after 2007 i325 is actually a detuned 3.0

Visual inspection seems fine

When you go see the car make sure:
1. No xmas tree dashboard when you turn on the car
2. All the buttons work, ALL OF IT
3. Make sure tires has lots of life left in it, replacements aren't cheap
4. Best if service has just been done, you're looking at RM400 over at minimum per visit

it is the usual lingo for the problems the car highlighting to you.
you know like battery low, transmission failure, etc.



Warranty is attached to the car, not the owner.
However, if the previous owner voided any warranty regulations like service at non authorized service centers than all bets are off.



Here is what you plan to you, right?
Buy a car that depreciated a little bit because it is 2 years old.
The thing is people rarely sell 2 year old cars unless it has problems.
Anyway, lets look at the math.

Look at the yellow line, interest paid to bank is the same amount if you buy new or used because of the interest rate difference.
Of course monthly you've got to fork out an extra 400 but you'll be getting a new car instead of a used one.

The car you intend to buy like Vios or City don't depreciate from 80k to 50k in 2 years.
People buy Toyota & Honda because resale value is high.
If you're to aim for Mitsubishi/Mazda/Nissan you'd be about right.

hey jack can add this to the sticky? oh and delete this line

Today I'm going to talk about the thing on everyone's mind. How to buy, finance and maintain a sports car.
A real sports car not some sporty car, special edition, standard car with higher capacity engine & bodykit, R3, TRD, GT and all those other bullshit.

First let's talk about affordability.
Let's say you have a take home salary after deductions of $3000.
Let's put a ballpark figure on your cost of living and savings from this.

Rental = $400 (assume your rental includes your water, electric and internet)
Food = $5 * 3 meals a day * 30 days = $450 (total budget of course if you eat $1 nasi lemak for breakfast you got extra $4 for dinner)
Petrol = RON95 @ $1.70 per litre * $0.15 per km * 2000km in a month = $510 (assuming you cannot claim this from your company)
Phone = Umobile $28 plan
Savings = $500
Total = $1888

Your sports car budget is $1112.

Next is 3 options you need to think about.

Option 1: Everything into one basket
Option 2: Cheap runabout + Expensive sports car
Option 3: Cheap sports car + Moderate runabout

In Option1 at first you might think is $1000 really enough? It can be enough if you plan properly. This is going to be a sports car so you're going to go all-in on the banking side which means low downpayment and maximum of 9 years loan, because of two reasons, one a true sports car no matter how old there will be interest and value, and secondly sports car if maintained well you'll want to keep it for a long time so no point saving on the banking side because you're not going to do a quick loan and resell the car after 5 years like you would if you own a Vios. Also going all-in on the banking side would leave you with cash on hand as maintenance fund so you don't touch your savings. You'll be targeting cars like Evo, WRX, GTI as they are cars that can serve a dual purpose as a family car and sports car over the weekend, but of course there are compromises



2007 VW Golf GTI MK5 - i decided to use this one as an example because they're pretty common on the Malaysian roads, especially KL thus there is the critical mass needed for lowering of parts cost.

Let's get down to the maths, so the asking price is $64k so running through the loan calculator with minimum deposit of $1000, interest rate of 4% and loan for 9 years the monthly repayment would be $794 so minus that from our budget you've got $318 extra which should be sufficient to maintain this car.

Now let's talk about maintenance.

If you like to change oil every 7500km than I guess any VW 502.00 approved oil like Castrol Edge 5W-30 or Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 should be fine. They are "fully synthetic" oils ,actually hydrocracked (semi-synthetic) lubricants. The Hydrocracked is a just a chemically refined (purified)mineral oil. Price check at Lazada for Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 the cheapest for 4L is $190 and 1L is $50, you'll roughly need about 5L per service so I suggest to lurk online or shops for the best deals and buy to keep, and it is probably cheaper buying two 4L than one 4L and 1L each.

If you prefer to change oil every 10000-15000km than you should use VW 503.00 approved oil like Mobil 1 SuperSyn 0W-40 or Castrol Edge 0W-40. They are 100% synthetic oils - PAO(polyalphaolefins) or esters . They are more expensive, price check at 11street is $287 for a 4L bottle of Castrol Edge 0w-40.

If you are perfectionist than you should use Motul 300V POWER 0W-40, Castrol Syntec 0W-30 however keep on mind that ester oil may soften engine seals. Plus this really breaks the budget so it is here only as information shared.

Accordingly to VW Golf GTi manual:

Vehicles with LongLife service should use - High lubricity multigrade oil / VW 504 00, VW 503 00
Vehicles without LongLife service should use - High lubricity multigrade oil / VW 501 01, VW 502 00, VW 504 00

However, mechs in Australia prefer to recommend their clients to use VW 502 00 because of the harsher conditions there together with shorter service intervals. So it should be the same for Asean region. Now lets do the math for this.

One month you're running 2000km and you need to service every 7500km.
So that roughly is 3 months before you need to do an oil change.
You might be thinking $318 x 3 months = $954 you can afford to put in more expensive oil.
Please don't think that way you're going to go broke fast.

Your minor service fee would be:
Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 5L = $140
Fuel filter = $70
Air filter = $70
Labour = $75
Total = $355

The $599 you've saved put it in a separate account as sinking funds for major service in which you might need to service and/or change parts for the aircon, or as emergency fund to change things like absorbers, bushings, rack-ends, lower arms, bearings, tires, etc. since it is afterall a used car. Believe me that even one of those issues lures its ugly head around that $599 isn't going to be enough unless those things happen after a year or so in that time you would've added quite a sum for this sinking fund so it won't hurt you that much. This is why it is very important to get a well taken cared of car, will full service record shown, and best is just serviced so you've saved yourself at least $300 bucks.

Also don't forget that 6speed wet clutch DSG gearbox although more reliable than the 7speed dry clutch DSG has a hidden secret, DSG and Dual Clutch Transmission in general are expensive to maintain but if you don't change it then it will fail like the dry clutch DSG. You'll need to do this change every 60,000km which is roughly based on 2000km per month is roughly 2.5years. Price check at Mudah quotes a DSG fluid change would cost you $750 with installation/labour minus GST. So you can see how that $318 budget seems like just enough to cover everything?


To be continued for Option 2 & Option 3

Now is a good time to buy Vios
I've been quoted this price by Toyota salesman

Vios J (A)
82k OTR + GST
73k 90% loan
9000 remaining
6500 discount
2500 so you only need to pay this much as downpayment/deposit

Vios E (A)
87k OTR + GST
79k 90% loan
8000 remaining
7500 discount
500 downpayment/deposit

when they modify it shit happens.
just keep it stock.
that's why i don't believe in all those shitty "special editions".
in the end there won't be enough power.
get a proper sports car.....straight to the point.

The Vitara isn't something I would attach the word spacious with, plus you know obviously it is something wrong with the car when it depreciate from over 100k new to 50k used within less than 5 years.

2008 Toyota Voltz 1.8 - maybe you wanna explore this model, it isn't sold locally and was previously a recon, two things to remember for JDM cars are mechanical components and body parts. Mechanical components for Toyota shouldn't be an issue since this model shares almost everything with Altis 1.8G, body parts might be tougher since it is JDM there won't be many parts laying around for you even at chop shops thus price for those things might be expensive but usually from my experience the more common stuff like bumpers can be bought with relative ease and not so expensive (mind you that the pricing level is at least around anything as expensive as Altis parts), however for anything more than fender benders parts should be expensive since it is going to be import so get a good insurance cause you either gotta write-off the car to cash out for another car if it is really serious or if not so major then don't worry no matter how expensive the parts will be the insurance gotta pay for it. Plus at only 30k for such a car if anything really goes wrong then it isn't that heartache to write-off .

Scirocco 2.0 and Golf GTI are both within the same performance range because they're using the same engine and gearbox, but because of the coupe body style it gets taxed much more than the GTI in malaysia thus it is never going to fit into the budget of the scenario above.

CRZ at this moment is about 10k off the budget but it isn't a sports car

"car leg" so so only, considered quite soft imho for a SUV.
I was using a loaner once, and it is mostly a city car.
Absorbers and probably bearings gone from the sound of it, and it is only a 2010 car.
Mind you it is not a rented car, it is someone's main car, i was loaning it while he was overseas.
Space wise for your purpose it is going to be feeling quite tight.

I think I explained about Wish already.

Yes, there are alot of additionals like Air Asia style.
There is a sticky on the first page on all of this.
Usually sellers put a bare bones used car price then when he finally works out the OTR price it can be alot.
JPJ inspections, name transfer, GST, insurance, roadtax, etc.

About 80% of the time a buyer will get duped, it is not a system rigged in favor of the seller, more like lack of information on the buyer part.
Because unless they're lurking in mudah everyday to find their dream sports car and calculate the cost often.
Most buyers would only do a deal once every 5 years so lack of experience and information will make them easier targets for used car salesman.

unless you really need it urgently, it is best to just buy something cash at this price point.
because they're either decent but really old cars like Protons or fairly new but expensive to maintain cars like some Korean and most Conti's.
20% of 15k is about 3000, why not consider a decent and cheap car like Axia?

You can always use imoney to check.
I just did a check for 2010 Mazda 6, with luxury windscreen cover, NCB 0% and 40 year old drive is RM3068.
If 2010 Mazda 6, with low windscreen cover, NCD 55%, and 40 year old driver is RM1309.

I am not surprised based on the table below (for new car) you can see some sellers will always quote you the selling price then Air Asia to get OTR price.



Put it this way instead of us answering questions after questions without end.

What is your budget, absolute budget no more "i think i can add abit if the car good" kinda crap. Or how much deposit or monthly repayment is your target.
Then 3 important things you will use this car for.

Cerato....RV?



it's been done to the death.
if your budget low, want good RV, want cheap maintenance, want decent reliability, must be non-local then just buy Vios J-spec, end of the story.

Look at the bottom for City and Jazz.



City 5000
Jazz 6000

If they're really giving you cash rebate then for the Jazz that money can be used for the deposit, you don't need to come out with a single cent until you need to pay your loan at the end of the month. It seems the Jazz is the better offer you get a voucher for a pretty good tinted as well.

IFFFFF they giving cash.....else if they giving you value added crap worth that amount just skip it.

Usually the low interest rate is for 9 years loan, if you prefer 9 years then go for it, cause usually for me these low interest but for 9 years is kind of a trick, if u do the math you're actually paying more.

Don't expect local reviewers to be honest.
Even if it is utter trash they won't dare give much negative comments.
Unlike European reviews where they focus on the owner in terms of "how it drives", "how much is the upkeep", and "how practical it is".
The local reviews usually 60% is explaining the spec sheet, 35% overall test drive feel and fuel consumption report, 5% negative feedback with a spin.

Here is an example from the Persona review:

"The experience is hairy to say the least – at speeds above 100 km/h, a sudden, violent flick of the steering wheel one way, then the other, is enough to upset the car, causing the Persona to snap into oversteer before the computers very quickly gather it all up. It’s a very stark reminder on why we champion this active safety feature, as it is essential in preventing accidents during emergency manoeuvres such as these. Kudos to Proton for yet another car with stability control as standard across the range."

Any reviewer from outside this country will instantly call this out. Nanny electronics is good but it shouldn't have to be so much in your face and the car depends on it so much. The reviewer said above 100km/h which is a pretty common speed nowadays if like that also need nanny electronics there is a critical flaw in the car's design and handling. Additionally, it instantly means this car cannot go on any highway with a 110 speed limit because Malaysian style you'll need at least 130/150km/h speeds to overtake even lowly lorries crawling at 90km/h.

"It’s not perfect – some of the plastics still feel low-rent, and there are still a few quirks like too-small instrument gauges and mismatched switchgear fonts. But it’s inched closer to being a complete, well-rounded car than any other Proton, and while we’ve said that many times before, this time it’s tantalisingly close."

Cheap plastics is inevitable nowadays so can't complain, even most under 100k Toyota's feel pretty darn cheap like just 30% improvement over Perodua. Mismatched fonts is probably forgivable but it shouldn't happen. The big mistake are the tiny instrument gauges, as you can see from pictures at the source the tachometer seems okay but the speedometer is too busy making the thing overall bigger would make it easier to read, i wouldn't go as far as say you'll need to concentrate and probably cause an accident trying to read it (unless you're a senior citizen with an eye sight problem) but it takes that little more effort.

Before you go and bash local reviewers, which you should but not blatantly without knowing this first, the car industry here if you look properly is pretty much a controlled market by a handful of companies (see below) and because the population in Malaysia is small for so many brands they really cannot afford any of their models getting an honest review as some of the brands they're carrying is already standing on the grave like Citroen, Skoda, Alfa Romeo. Thus non co-operative media won't get called for media events or given cars for test drive.

Naza Group is the franchise holder for Kia Motors, Peugeot, Chevrolet, and Citroën. With the option to rebadge Kia vehicles under their own brand.

Sime Darby has BMW and Mini (Auto Bavaria), Ford passenger and commercial vehicles, Land Rover, Alfa Romeo, Hyundai, and also Inokom when they JV with Hyundai.

DRB Hicom has Honda, Isuzu, Suzuki,Proton, Audi, Mitsubishi.

Berjaya Group under Bermaz has Mazda and Skoda.

MBM Resources has Daihatsu, Hino, Perodua, VW, Volvo.

Tan Chong Motors has Nissan and Renault.

Bloggers are also split between two types, one type doesn't care about the industry and try to give information out anonymously online, while others find there is fame and fortune being a car reviewer so of course polish the apple until they get noticed by a magazine publisher or directly get offers from the brand owners.

TLDR if you're FaMa supported then just get Vios or City.
Vios would be the cheapest especially now with the discounts and J-spec.
City top-spec is good enough as a C-segment except for it's size.

Anytime you get a funny feeling, just walk away.
It is your money.
If you wannabe sarcastic you can say "you want money or a depreciating product"

2013 Honda Civic - if you want a big upgrade from your current car this would be it, this generation of Civic suffers from relatively bad looks (compared to the generation before it) and without a TypeR model in the stable it is generally viewed as the boring version. Market perception aside this car still sold in good numbers so parts and support is there, so maintenance and upkeep is relatively cheap for a C-segment also adding to the fact that the 1800cc version uses the same R18 engine as the generation before it while the 2000cc variant uses an R20 engine. The R-series engine is newer than the K-series, although not as powerful as the K-series it has better fuel economy and the way it is designed it is meant to be cheaper to maintain and more reliable. For me it is a good combination as maintenance wise it isn't going to hurt and the price is down due to FaMa and most people thinking it is not as good as the previous generation of FD's, and with the latest generation already out the prices of cars in this generation will further drop.

2013 VW Beetle - if you're not worried about maintenance and want something fun and not so practical yet cool then you can consider to buy a car like this. The Beetle with this 1.2TSI and DSG combo doesn't have as many complaints as Golf/Polo but you can never tell. Nevertheless, for an iconic car it can be worth the money if you want the street cred.



it is a buyers market now.
this seller either smoking too much weed or dunno about cars.
maybe he thinks the value appreciates like property.
tell him 80k or else f-off

Who is a better person Devil or Satan?

In mudah now got one guy selling Mitsu Colt 1.5 turbo for 43k.
Abit high.
28-35k is a decent price.

Bluebird U13 aka Altima isn't a cheap project car.
Properly restored it is quite a beast especially the manual one as it has an SR20 heart, which can accept a turbo "pacemaker" anytime there are lotsa bolt-ons readily available in the market or you can keep it stock it is pretty much still very fast but don't expect the kind of power and fuel economy of newer cars. I remember my dad had to sell it when bushings were quoted to at RM4000, so it isn't cheap.

If your friend does any modifications on the Myvi then don't bother cause it really isn't that much cheaper than the cheapest used car on the market. The cheapest for that kind of mileage is 15.5k so friend discount is only 500 bucks?

Getting a good condition Wira for 5k isn't easy but if you just need a cheap runabout then this is the car to buy.

2011 Toyota Mark X - for me this is a value buy for many reasons but you've gotta accept the higher fees for roadtax because it is a 2500cc car but that is a V6, and although the most common V6 is our market is the Perdana this one from Toyota is much more smooth, powerful, economical and cheaper to maintain. This is capable of highway cruising at 150km/h @ 2000rpm when talking about looks it is a hit and miss for some as some people prefer newer looks no matter what but i find that the new one looks too "sonata" and square like the new Camry while this design is more rounded and instantly recognisable as a Mark X. Nothing much to worry about this car as it shares many components with the Toyota Camry and Lexus IS250, plus the new *cough*facelift*cought* models of the IS250 and Mark X although have a different exterior look uses the same engine and gearbox so you don't have to worry about getting parts.

2012 Ford Mondeo 2.3 @ 43k or 2012 Ford Mondeo 2.0 Ecoboost @ 68k - so there is a 25k premium if you wanna go for the Ecoboost model (turbo), if you ask me this is a matter of preference and maintenance cost, a mondeo isn't going to be cheap to maintain no matter how you flip the coin because in Malaysia this brand isn't as strong as it is in America or Uk, thus overall parts prices aren't going to be cheap either way but of course the turbo is going to cost you more to maintain due to the fact that turbo has more parts and require better engine oil. Some would rather spend on getting a Volvo or German at this kind of maintenance cost but only Volvo is this cheap to buy, if you're talking about Audi, Merc and BMW for this price range you can't get a 2012 car.

2006 Skoda Octavia 1.6 - this is the facelift and final version before Skoda stop selling cars in Malaysia, although Bermaz still support these cars for servicing and parts. It is a very good car to have as the Octavia's are basically VW Jetta's and Audi A4's but under another badge, kinda like how Perodua is a reworked and rebadged from Daihatsu and Toyota technology thus just like Daihatsu Boon = Perodua Myvi the same can be said for Skoda Octavia = VW Jetta = Audi A4. Since Audi and VW are here to stay getting parts for Skoda isn't a big problem but effort is needed if you want it at a cheaper price. If you don't want to headache but don't mind spending on the maintenance then just park at Bermaz 3s and they'll settle it for you but at a 3s price. If you do some leg work you can source cheaper parts from Singapore, China, or even a specialist shop at Jln Ipoh. Some of the Skoda gang do make a TT drive down to Singapore to buy parts for non critical stuff like door handles, interior bits, grille, power window, etc.

Real deal or not, nobody is going to pay for a used limited edition turbo alza at 80k

The Hybrid's sold to the rest of the world except Europe and America iinm are all made in Japan.
So they are export spec Japan CBU cars.
I've never had one beyond just a normal test drive, it seems that to get the same amount of power as the 1800cc Civic you'll be spending that hybrid reserve power quite often, not too sure about the reliability of the battery as these are first generation hybrids for Malaysia, although in other parts of the world they're like 4th generation already but we have to remember the climate here is different from Japan and Europe so eventhough 4th gen but there might be issues they haven't encountered in those countries since the climate is different.

Please check on the warranty properly, it is 8 years for the IMA system including the batteries, not the whole car.

It is a decent buy, but too complicated for me.
Many things can fail because of the integration of two fuel systems.
In terms of value there are many that buy it because used car value is as low or lower than the 1800cc variant but it comes with better quality materials, if the system does fail it is only a rm5000 job to transplant the 1800cc engine into it but you still get the nice made in japan cabin

Haha....you got poisoned by my suggestions of the Kizashi's haven't you?

It is a compact D-segment like most 3-series and Euro Accord, not full barge D-segments like Camry and Teana.

few people complain the rear....


looks like this....


maybe that's why it couldn't sell well, this is chinese uncle talk, but i find the car superb looking has that european-asian luxo look like the Infinity's, Lexus, Acura's, etc.

Achilles' heel = overheating CVT gearbox

Mini/Smart are the kinds of cars you'd want.



1. Depends on how gullible you are, it might inflate to 50k
2. Car dealers won't help you with this because the bank officer that will give them undertable if car loan is approve is only doing car loans. Other types of loans no kick back.

everything new so don't expect cheap legacy parts

Elantra?


That is a good price range and within the kind of budget for Audi TT.
Can't really recommend any dealers, you've gotta find one nearby you which isn't an a-hole then you can consider to buy

2011 year car can go maximum 9 years.

Latio (read the old stories)

1997 Toyota Camry 2.2GX - look no further for a comfortable and budget barge to drive. Although it can be cheap to run but don't think it is going to be cheap like a Kancil, it is a D-segment afterall so cheapest would be a RM150 normal service bill. Cars back then aren't as fuel efficient as cars now so don't expect this 2200cc to be as frugal as a 2500cc nowadays, but for this price range you can't expect much if you go for the lower cc cars it the safety levels are even more ancient and c-segments of the time like Civic EK and Corolla SEG are famous for being modified.

well wira isn't so bad especially the 1.5 one the engine and gearbox is relatively bullet proof.
however, the only gremlim you should be cautious of is rust.

because not square?

any other requirement or usage info?

Checking online the insurance premium for a 2012 3008 with 55% NCB and premium windscreen cover is going to be RM1700++
However, you should check to ensure that also covers the panaroof, as it usually doesn't.
Also another thing to note it doesn't cover panaroof leaking just breaking from stone chips, etc.

Peugeot's are really for people that love their cars.
They're expensive to upkeep and reliability is not their strong point.
If you're just choosing it because it is in your budget range, then even if you get a decent one without issues you'll still feel you bought a lemon.

Hybrid's are pretty much still new stuff in Malaysia.
Malaysian mindset usually is less complicated and old tech is cheaper to maintain.
Which is usually true, there is much maintenance that needs to be done for the Hybrid in terms of it's IMA (hybrid) system since everything is electrical.
However, when it fails I don't think they're up to the task and would recommend you'd go back to Honda 3S to fix it.
Usually at this point you'll get really frustrated with the 3S people as they'll either give you two answers:

1. I dunno how to fix the problem, this kind of problem never happen before, also you never service here (implying the workshop outside did something wrong and honda won't be responsible for it).

2. This is the problem, this is the solution, this is the price. We cannot guarantee it will fix the issue because you never service here.

I think you can go for a Nissan Latio or Nissan X-Gear, as both these cars already suffer heavy depreciation and would fit your requirements.

So in your first post you said you wanted a Civic then now a smaller car.
I'm confused.

I don't know if they still have any cars after doing the stock clearance but you can check this out.

2009 Toyota Altis 1.8 - don't muck about it get a good car like the Altis, it has the safety features that would give you peace of mind when travelling on the highway everyday, being a 1800cc car you won't feel tired driving an under powered car and having to push it to it's limits everday, maintenance wise i wouldn't say it is cheap because it is a C-segment afterall so expect normal service around RM120-170.

I'm going to assume you'll be paying a cash amount without any loan attachment.
Also do note that most of the prices quoted when used car dealers sell the car is the car price, even if he absorb the GST, you'll still have to top-up roughly 2-3k for runner handling charges, jpj inspection, roadtax and insurance.

You're in luck since I am also searching for a "cheap shit" car that can be capable of highway usage. My requirements is basically to find a car that is cheap to buy and maintain while mostly being a in town runabout but capable of highway journey's from Johor to KL, and it must be comfortable as my group coming up and down KL is usually 4 adults.

2006 Nissan Latio 1.6 Sedan - usually even this old it is above 20k but the owner is doing a quick fire sale at 15k, you might wanna give a call to check it out, if it is legit then it is a steal. It should be able to fit all your requirements. While still being slightly newer than your target of 2005 cars. You can read more about Latio's in my previous posts.

2004 Toyota Altis 1.6 - checking around there aren't any 2005 models within your budget and for 2004 only a handful of cars available (in KL region), anyway this particular ad the car looks in relatively good condition plus it is stock so hopefully it was well taken care of and driven by a lady to go pasar buy vege only. All in all, when going for older cars if you do not know what you're doing or much about maintenance then it is better to go for Toyota's as they're cheaper to fix it anything goes wrong and are built quite tough so even if it wasn't serviced well it should still be okay.

If you're willing to up your budget there are better cars you can choose;

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer 1.6 - there used to be many for sale but nowadays few remaining and there is reason too as now is 2016 and the last batch of these cars that were sold were in 2006 so this is the last year someone can actually buy them using loan. It is a relatively good car as it shares much in common with Proton Waja as they come from the same platform so there are parts that can be shared between the two so you can source for cheap parts via this avenue but if you can't then you can always still get new parts from Mitsubishi Malaysia but it would cost you

about the only thing the civic hybrid and the civic "regular" have in common is the chassis, interior and exterior parts.
of course the hybrid has specialize bumpers which are made to reduce friction and powerloss, but you can of course still install a regular civic one if you wanna save cost. Eventhough the Civic is EOL usually any manufacturer will continue to make parts for it a minimum for 20 years, sometimes if the model isn't selling well they release it to their OEM's to continue to make parts for it under "oem", "compatible", etc. but not "original".

as for the engine it has more in common with the CRZ and Insight, so you can estimate the maintenance from your Insight buddy.

like i said before the oily bits you can get a normal workshop to settle for you but once any electronics or IMA ducks up, you're in for a world of pain.

i don't have those figures with me but let me put it this way.
the lower the rpm = less fuel usage.
a vios in the town doesn't rev up to high rpm to get around, neither does an altis, but of course you'd get better pickup from the altis because natively you're spending more fuel as 1500cc vs 1800cc.

however when travelling at the highway a 1800cc car can comfortably cruise between 2-3k rpm at 110-140kmh, while a vios would need to be in the 3-4k range for similar performance, and if you need to go faster to overtake cars going at 90/100kmh you'll need to rev the vios 1500cc engine to an inch of it's life to get that 6k rpm surge and go from 90kmh to 140kmh quickly to overtake, while an altis wouldn't take that much effort.

in a nutshell the fuel consumption difference might be negligible.

If you want cheap don't go find Top Mark.
If you want safety (not get cheated by salesman) and warranty find Top Mark.
Cause anything happen you complain to UMW Toyota they will look into your case seriously.
Used car dealer by roadside you wanna complain to who?
Like Kipidap everyday go make police report?

D-segment running cost are innately more expensive because of the size of the engine and better components used.
New Saga is probably going to be 1000cc-1300cc how to compare against Camry 2400cc.
Like comparing the maintenance fees for a 400sqft apartment in the wrong side of town to a 5000sqft bungalow by SP Setia.

If Nanny electronics like VSC, EBD, etc. doesn't matter to you then pickup a Nissan Latio 1800cc.
Iinm the 2006 models are going for around RM23k.

1. Almera/City (new)
2. Starex (new)
3. X-Trail (new)

do u mean x-gear 1.6?

x-trail has only 2.0 and 2.5

Yeah, I know what you mean. After going 300kmh on my Bugatti slowing down to 140kmh feels like standstill

A good city runner would be a car like Mitsubishi Mirage, however they axed that model.
Probably good for them as the A-segment seems to be hotting up lately with many new models as buying power decrease you can see top range A-segments now with C-segment features like USB charging, Ipod/USB input for music, bluetooth connection for phones, sophisticated engine technology like Dual VVTI (previously manufacturers just dumb down their C-segment engine or update an older and smaller engine to current emission standards), and stability control.

Don't say A-segment previously not many B-segments had this, the most popular car in Malaysia didn't have stability control until the model they're about to launch.

The new Persona and Iriz are B-segment cars from Proton however interior space for me feels A-segment in terms of build quality, looks and space. The rear seating space can be said to be large if you compare to cars like Honda CRZ or BMW Mini, else even comparing against the older Vios it is small, don't say lah updated B's like City and Almera.

You might be tempted for the new Persona, Saga and Bezza. However, unless you really wanna take the risk I'd suggest you either wait awhile so the waiting period is shorter and white rat owners complain and manufacturers fix teething problems.

Nowadays 80k is pretty much no man's land.

Mid-spec B's like City and Vios are around 85k ++
Entry level B's by the time you get to OTR price would be nearing or slightly beyond 80k

best to avoid such scum.

pretty decent car and age for that price.
though the ones in better condition with the higher range 1600cc engine would be nearing 20k

i agree with this assessment.
it is one of those cars where there is no performance, but is relatively cheap to maintain, and relatively decent brand.
for someone that wants something different on the road but isn't going to pay am arm and leg for it, maybe just a few fingers.

Wira 1.6xli is a good car.
So you're assessing a Ferrari?
Why you need to do high speed test?

Drivetrain assessment can be done from 20-60kmh.
Look out for weird jerks during gear shifts.
Make sure your route has turns, speed bumps, and a long straight.
You can assess the gears going up smoothly, then up down shifts during corners, and quick downshifts when aproaching speed bumps.

Yeah, the original Perdana is fine.
More Mitsu parts in it's design.
Pv6 is where more Proton parts and corners were cut.