Hi,


I am looking into buying a second hand Satria Neo 1.6.
I am having problems finding many Satria Neo which is model 2009 or above.
I found plenty 2007, and 2008. Price also slightly lower for these models.

But, the different models - 2006,07,08,09 look the same.

Can any one please tell me what are the noticeable differences between Satria Neo 1.6, models 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009? Any internal difference I should be aware of before purchasing? I asked some sellers and they say almost no difference between the 4 models. So I am really confused.


Please help!


Thanks a lot.

the year does not signify the different models.. just the year the car was manufactured.

there is no difference between the year manufactured between the models.

eg of models: M-line, H-line, CPS, CPS R3, etc etc.

a 2006 M-line will be the same as a 2009 M-line.

^ this covers it....

and dont expect the r3 cars to come with any performance parts ya.... its basically just like a high line with asthetical stuff bolted on

This post has been edited by lsm1991: Mar 16 2016, 05:36 PM

got one cps r3 with r3 performance parts..but limited edition.

This one does....limited edition...145bhp

yep, only a few variants,
1)those limited edition 'real' r3 ones with the numbered plates
2)those clubsport editions with the cage
3)the lotus edition

i think thats all? keep in mind that those have eye popping pricetags!

the lotus racing edition is the best variant of the Neo's, maybe?

with a price tag of 6 figures when it was launched~

**them brakes and suspension though... i much jelly....**

This post has been edited by lsm1991: Mar 16 2016, 05:49 PM

Wow, Thats a lot of helpful information!
My confusion is almost gone now. Thanks a lot guys.

Another thing, I researched and found out the 2006-2008 models have the Campro S4PH engine, where as the 2009 and above have the Campro CPS engine. Is it true? I know the engines are different with the CPS giving higher BHP etc., but how much of a noticeable difference does it translate to on city roads driving, slopes etc.?

Thanks.

not 100% sure.... but i always thought that the cps model replaced the top range neos... meaning that at that point of time, the 1.3 campro, 1.6 campro and 1.6 cps were available concurrently (not that it completely replaced the campro 1.6)

if i were to compare 2 stock units.... cps models were prettier looking, had a nicer interior and had a little more power to match the looks

[QUOTE]

Just look at the bodykit. The CPS has screws on the fender and big spoiler

If you're not planning on heavy mods go for the cps

I got some good deals on the non-CPS models. I might go for those.
The CPS ones are not easily available second hand, and the ones which are, are kinda outta my budget, so I might settle for the 2006-2009 version.

I always wondered what those screws on the fender where for. Now I know. Thanks!


The model which I might most probably buy is the 2006. I got an h-line version for it. There are 2007-08 models with same pricing, but all m-line versions, or some are 1.3. I have heard 1.3 is not as good. So I guess eventhough its 2006, but h-line, it would fare better than 2007 or 08, m-lines right?

Finally, I would like to know this. Since I am going for the above car, mainly because its h-line, can any one tell me what would be a good way for me to ensure that it is indeed the h-line and has all the features that the h-line supposed to have? I apologize if it sounds like a stupid or noob question. I am not that good with cars, and none of my friends have the satria so cant ask them.. :/

Thanks

just a reminder....
-make sure car is accident free
-dont trust the dealers, check and double check to make sure (paint originality, leaks,tyres)
-call before you view the car, prices are rarely as stated

just an advise
-buy a car from an owner... most dealers are ripoffs (not saying all dealers are like this, nor am i saying all owners are honest)

i still liked the Neo's design even today. nice car.
but alas i cant fit in the Neo. I'm not even that tall, only 175cm, and my head is almost touching the roof of the car, and when trying to drive, my view feels blocked by the roof-line. Have you sat in the car and driven around?

Don't buy the non CPS Neo, especially with the Auto gearbox.. its has infamous torque dip.. if possible get the CPS version.

Can distinguished by the Red color plug cover on the engine head.

ehh not so badlah, around the same height as you there is still some headroom

My previous car I got from an owner (Kancil), and it was an extremely bad experience. Everything started like breaking down after 2 months of usage, and now I have to spend like 4-5k yearly on repairs on it. So that is why this time I was looking to get from dealers.

I will of course do proper checking before buying.

Thanks for the advice.

Are there any visible differences or any indication that it is H-line? Like if I test drive, or have some one look at the car, how can one say it is for sure H-Line?

My only fear is that what if some one cheats me saying its h-line but its not actually? So was wondering if there is some way to check that.

dealers are the buggers who tend to pull stunts like this..... they say, ohh~~ trd ver, type r, what bollocks~~

i dont know this car well enough to help you here BUT google does.... (tip, go into paultan archives and check the 06
-highline comes with engine cover (i read off the paul tan site)
-high-line model comes with anti-lock brakes, rest dont
-cruise control for the automatic transmission
kenot post paultan link kan?

**from personal experience i still feel that a private seller is better, u know the history, less bs, pay less (usually lower otr price tag, dealers will tell you there is this and that processing fee, all rubbish)**

This post has been edited by lsm1991: Mar 17 2016, 04:39 PM

Thanks.

Also as I was researching more, some people say that the auto gearbox is bad?
I finally liked a good H-Line piece, and I have been looking for auto 1.6 all this while and this particular one suited all my requirements, and it looked EXCELLENT! But its auto, which I really wanted.

But is it that bad? Like compared to what? I have driven isawara auto, waja, myvi, mutsibushi all auto, etc. Or is it really bad compared to like sporty higher spec cars? *worried*

well.... basically it wont be the fastest car around. Personal opinion here.... the cps manual barely has the go to match its looks.... what more the campro auto BUT compared to the cars in ur list like an auto iswara/waja it cant be that bad.... (hef no experience driving an auto satria)

Easy.

If cps they are all H-line

If non cps. Easiest way to tell is passenger airbag. If got SRS airbag on passenger dashboard

Really ah, in my area i seen a lot of used neo cps at car dealer...and if you dont mind, how much is your budget?
And..why neo? Have u ever ride neo before?

Mune has airbag on passenger dashboard. Its hline. However, i thought only hlines of 2009 and above are cps? The ones before 09, all got campro but not cps one..read this on paul tan website

Budget if its hline, is 25k otr price. If not hline, 21k otr. Auto 1.6 yh.

And no i hvnt ridden neo before, but ive had my heart set on this car since years. Used a crappy kancil bfr this, and hv driven a friend's iswara on many occassions. For my next car purchase, wanted something with some killer fancy looks n features (check) and also great performance compared to other similarly priced models (check), and fairly new, like 2006++ (also check). Hence the neo. also its been recommended by many of my friends, over the safa flx or even myvi (at this price).

the old neo..cps one..i find it uncomfortable. after that cps r3 (the red one)..and cps r3 (only the bodykit one) they lower down the seat a bit..i found it better. maybe i'm used to high roof car such a myvi and saga blm. (btw, i'm 180cm).

actually im abit confused as well.....
what i would go with is...
pre 09 cars
-2 airbags, abs,ebd,cruise control = H-line
post 09
-2 airbags, abs,ebd,cruise control + CPS = H-line
-1 airbag +Campro = M-line

keep that in mind, an example of dealers bullsh*t*ng:
http://www.mudah.my/Proton+Satria+Neo+1+6+...07-38425312.htm
-07 car, no way in hell its a CPS
-probably a h line from 07
(lots of adds like this in mudah)

http://www.mudah.my/Proton+Satria+Neo+1+6+...ly-43641595.htm
-more garbage than the 1st, all the descriptions are rubbish
-look at the engine, year and interior, has a campro, has 2 airbags but wait, 12 car? this no make sense cause, afaik, campro units post 09 did NOT come with twin airbags.... so... either the dealer messed the pics up(unlikely) or he is lying bout the year, OR the info we have on the specs are not 100% complete

now this~~~ i kinda like (but manual)
http://www.mudah.my/2009+Proton+Satria+Neo...M+-44675680.htm
-seems like its a personal car owned by G-ShoCk (traced the phone no to his lowyat acc). No idea why its listed under a company
-not exactly cheap, but alright AND personal car means, less likely to be tampered with

This post has been edited by lsm1991: Mar 18 2016, 10:04 AM

dun buy auto neo la.. no fun

Haha, I am 170cm, so maybe should be ok.

I am going to be test driving it in the weekend, so will see then.

Wow, that was an amazing breakdown of things!
You know, apart from the owner model, the other 2 I had looked into before hehe. I did not pay any attention to the 2012 model as it was already overbudget.

But the other one, the info seems ok for an H-Line.

The thing is this: ALL neo cars have campro engine. Even the pre 2009 ones and the post 2009 ones. The only difference is, Post 2009, H-Line only, has a difference campro engine, which is the CPS. Campro engine is of two types, DOHC and CPS. 2006-end all models of b and m line have dohc. 2006 till 2009 h-line also have dohc, and 2009++ h-line have the CPS. So if any dealer mention campro engine, that is ok. Only thing I know is that the CPS one is only 2009 or above in h-line.
Regarding dealers, the only thing I absolutely hate is that the sites never give the OTR price. Whats given is the car price only. Later when you go to them and ask, they will give you OTR price which is usually more than listed price on site. Besides that, whatever specs they write, is the SAME for all their cars, specially things like "100% good condition gear box, 100% good condition tires".. etc. I have seen many dealers, incl mine, to just copy paste these things and paste it in all their Ads lol.

So that is why I was asking here things like how to tell the h-line apart, and other characteristics. So I know what the dealer is offerring, I have seen the car, love it, and now I will be going with a friend and test drivign it, and will check on important things, like proof of h-line, and things under the hood in good condition, tires etc. Might also take my mechanic to personally check the car, my dealer allowed that. Just need to convince my mechanic, as I do not trust others so cant take them, and mine is hard to convince :'( lol

Also I read on paultan that airbags (2 of them) are also on ALL h-line models, pre and post 2009.

The one I am planning to get, is a version with those red leather seats. (black and red). But its pre-2009. In the paul tan website, for the CPS review they showed those seats, but mine being 2009 below, cant be cps, but I have those seats. So either the previous owner did that, or my dealer is mistaken and maybe it has cps? I hope its the second one personally. Also I forgot, how can one tell the difference between CPS and DOHC engine? Any idea?

Thanks!

yep you got it basically all covered....

cps has a red spark cover, while the campro has a black one (quite obvious) and its written there haha
(incase some smartass paints it, the dummy way to tell is.... one has cps written there (clockwise 90 degrees, T shape) and the other has no cps written there (counterclockwise 90 degrees, L shape)

This post has been edited by lsm1991: Mar 18 2016, 12:30 PM

You missed the Cusco JP variant
http://www.proton.co.jp/parts.html

Satria neo is a RM 200 mil/500 mil writeoff from proton. Too niche a car to be profitable.



The lotus is the most expensive, but rides high. You want the more sensible r3-2011 year model.

People are complaining of the torque dip actually, which is quite bad.

If you want a hatchback, get the Suprima. Has rear doors. The neo's long doors+small parking place at shopping mall = trapped inside

Neo cps / r3 still one of the best looking car around

the car itself looks good. too bad high cost of r&d..bad interior design and overall packaging.

Was wondering if you guys have any experience in this. I am planning to go test drive the car with a friend tomorrow, who knows stuff about cars. However, he is not a mechanic, but knows many things.

Could any one from any experience or reference, give me a quick list of things I need to check while test driving, to ensure I have covered all bases? I can think of the driving itself, performance a bit, brakes, stereo, all lights inside n out, aircon, power windows and other controls. Anything else?

Also, I initially had a plan of getting my usual mechanic to the dealer shop, to check the car. But the mechanic does not wish to travel all the way for this (bit lazy one i think), and he's asking me to get the car to him. I can't do that since the car has no road tax etc., so can't take it far around. I would prefer not to get other mechanics as I do not trust any random mechanic. So in this case, any one got any ideas on what should I do? Is there a quick way to pop the hood and check things with my friend (who knows about cars), so that it wont be necessary to get my mechanic?

I might be able to get him by paying more, but that is also painful since I will be sending quite a lot on downpayment for this and such so saving for that. :/

Need ideas!

basically.... check everything, i had my own checklist... i was an idiot so i didnt write it down and everytime i went, i forgot a few items

+can check normally
++hardcore mode
*random tips

-interior
+check wear and tear, see if it matches the mileage
+ofc check the specs to confirm trim level (cruise control, airbags)
+check the electronics....
++stripsearch, look for stains under the trim at the sides and the bottom feet wells, also look for rust at the corners (this means pulling out the seats for the back and the mats at the bottom, but this is more applicable if the car is like 20 years old)
*on japanese cars, the general year of manufacture can be found on the seatbelts (not sure bout potongs, never checked)

-engine
+this one... u pandai pandailah, too many ways to check, many dif ideas
+no funny sounds, check if fluid levels are up, color all ok? (shops usually dah cover all problems here)
+leaks (unfortunately i have seen cars pre and after masuk kedai, signs of leaks all missing)
+some have poop on the engine covers 9means car has not moved for some time, check harder now!
+ask bout belts, oil whatnot, all adds up
++look out for mods.... (but auto campro less likely to be molested)

-exterior
+check for accident damage, search throughout the car!!!! look underneeth, look at the sides, look at the front radiator mount/subframe with the bonet open, any strange curves and its a sign the car has been repaired (anything funky, take pics hehe, no fnky also can take pics! we mau tengok)
+check for overspray, some fellas respray the cars to coverup damage some will admit resprayed, some wont (ask before vewing, pretend you dont know nuts)
+in the engine bay, u can find info on the car (from the plate, u can tell the color, trim, some cases engine, differs from car to car)
+check tyres, all same?(not same means kept on a budget) any bald spots?(means been sitting), wear rate same?(if no, allignment)
+lampu
++jackup! see if bottom nais or not!, also helpful to find oil leaks~

-driving
+check steering ade veer to any direction,
+brakes ok,
+no funny sounds, some would advise you tekan abit to see if it does anything funny

remember take your time~~
not sure if i missed anything

Stage 2 na stock mod... damn cun

Wow!That is an amazingly comprehensive list. I guess that covers everything and I wont need to look much further.

Thanks a LOT!
I might print this and take it there haha.

ahh yes...
-check the back spare tyre area for signs of rear collisions (in event of a bad accident, very difficult to repair this...
-check tyre age
-

Well the car I am looking it is indeed 9 years old (2007 model).

So perhaps IF no prts have changed in that time, it could mean two things:

1. It still has all original things in it.

2. Because they have been there for so long, what if I buy and then suddenly soon I have to change them? :'(


I'm gna go for test drive and checking like in 2 hours.. nervous a bit haha

so, hows the car??
if things have been replaced with original things then i guess thats good, car has been maintained accordingly
if things have been modified, it really depends on what it is, the quality of the work and what part (sometimes, original is better) (*for example, an added atf cooler is usually a good mod)
if things have not been replaced, it might need replacing soon, adds cost (mountings, timing belt)
sometimes things are replaced to solve a problem, might be an underlying problem (which may or may not be solved, there is always a risk buying 2nd hand cars though in u case, its not an extremely old car so should be fine)

Ok so I saw the car. Turns out, it was not an h-line after all. loool. The advertisement was not accurate and when I checked for the h-line only things, none of them were present, so it was an m-line 2006. For the price of 25k, an m-line 10 year old car suddenly was not worth it for me. When I checked the insides thoroughly (based on ur awesome list), even the insides some areas look pretty old and all; no wonder though coz its 10 year old car.

Thankfully the dealer also admit its an m-line and not h-line. I was glad he admit his mistake.

So after I was not interested in it at all, the dealer showed me another neo. This one is a 2010 model. definitely h-line (I checked), and has everything in MUCH better condition, as well as ofcourse the cps campro engine. Additionally it comes with full r3 body kit. Mileage is around 53k, so that is also good, and it being 2010, its a newer car. The condition was so good, it was as good as new in many area, incl under the hood.
The price for this is 35500RM (OTR). I have checked online and neos with similar specs incl r3 body kit are going for similar or higher price.

I took 2 friends with me, whose car knowledge is way better than mine. They approve of it too.

So I guess I might be going for that one. Gona ponder over it for a day or 2 more and then decide for sure.

Also, any one here have experience with Satria Neo H-Line CPS Model? Any thoughts or numbers on the FC?

whoa... budget blown ...... before you decide... i still think you shoud join the neo club... ask if anyone wants to let go of one... lots of these car lovers take really good care of the cars...

ohh ya... fc is on the higher side, but really depends on your foot, the mods (mods = makan more petrol and sometimes hp goes down if an idiot did it)

**personally feel that you can get a decent car for 30k+otr if you get it from an owner, asked a friend, and he said, shops will only pay around 25k for a 09 cps

-just some poison, toobad its in johor though (and this should have been a manual car!)
http://www.mudah.my/2011+Proton+Satria+Neo...er-44800679.htm

**dont be in a rush to buy a car, take your time, good deals will appear to those who are patient!

Can you get me the link to the neo club? Is it in lowyat forum?

The car I saw had no other engine mods done..so that would be stock and nice. the exterior is fully r3. interior is really new-ish. (well maintained)

The Johor car you showed was amazing! The price would be around same as mine I think. haha.
Also, I can't really buy from an owner easily as I am foreigner, and am limited in my budget to suddenly pay a huge amount or even a huge d/p.Buying through a dealer will gimme the benefit of some flexible loan options and so on. I would be buying this particular one on a 7 yr loan (if I am getting it), so the amount per month I have to let go is in my budget atm. The benefit also is that its a 2010 car, so a bit newer. Well those are the pros in this deal I guess.

I looked around on mudah, and the best deal I got for the same car, is my own dealer lol. There was another dealer too, selling the same model, but his OTR price was higher.

Hehe remember to try negotiate on the price, the satria neo club is on fb, there are a few, I u can just simply apply to join, then just ask

Sold mine 6 months ago for rm27.5k to a direct seller. The used car only wanted to take it fo rm 23k.
Mine was 2010 cps / auto. It only came with white or black that time. Hope this is some figures for u to gauge with.

Great car, good handling, fuel consumption was ard 350km per full tank for ron95. 50% highway. Sound proofing wasnt great.

whoa... so little?? they actually make quite abit selling these cars.....

Apart from the red valve cover it have higher hp..125 vs 110hp...
Perhaps test drive could tell them apart..

Pre 2009 is H line...no cps bodykit...
CPS is post 2009...red black leather + bodykit + rims + cps engine..

Yea man, looks like their margin is at least 10k. At the end I found a buyer who bought the car for his son. Great car I must say. Just that it's time to move on...

I am like days away from getting my Satria Neo CPS auto 2010, with full R3 bodykit.

I was wondering, is there any place I could get a softcopy of the owner's manual that comes with the car? Since this is second hand, pretty sure it does not come with the owner's manual. So was wondering if there is a copy of it somewhere online?

Thanks

congrats!! how much did you pay for it??

bout the manuals, if u cant find em online... u can try join the satria neo club, they might know where to get them

look for CPS model and above, anything less is a bit boring.. hehe

Btw, I have one unit of Works air filter for Gen2 and can fit to Satria Neo for sale. Got the wrong one for my wife's Persona. Its brand new but unwrapped. It can't fit into my wife's persona as the air filter for Persona and Gen2/Satria Neo is different.

It's good to have this air filter for the car as u can wash it and reuse it for a long time. Which saves you money in the long run. It also slightly improves the power of the car.

This post has been edited by itwj27: Mar 28 2016, 11:40 AM

Hi!

Haha long time no post.

k a lot happened between then and now, and its not been a good story so far.

Well I did not get the car yet. My first bank (cimb), rejected the loan.
The secnd one, heong leong, looked very hopeful, but then they evaluated the market value of the car to 30k, and hence got me a loan of only 21k, which means my downpayment would become like 15k, so had to let that go.

My dealer says he knows of no other banks to try.

I am personally gna try a few banks myself and see as last resort.


Meanwhile, I saw a newer car (2011) and an overall better deal at AutoCraver. Its a new much much more awesome service for second hand cars, so I have submitted my process and documents there for processing. They will try to get bank loan for me from their side. If that works out, then I will let go of this 35.5k deal immediately and go for that one.
I will be getting a reply from the Autocraver service on the bank loan results in like 7 days, so fingers crossed.


Its been such a tough one month trying to chase down the car and the bank loans. the bank loans are definitely the most excruciatingly difficult part from a foreigner perspective, it is so difficult! :'(


Well I hope this new try goes well. Any one got any tips for bank loans for foreigners? Any good recommended banks? Any experiences?

I would love to know.

Thanks.

Hi,

Well I havn't gotten the car yet unfortunately.

But when I do, this looks like an interesting offer. Still available?

How much is the price?

Please leme know.

Thanks.

am not sure @_@ i just paid in full.... then again my car is 20 yrs old so it didnt really cost that much

Hi all,

Ok here is another update. A very interesting and weird one. (I am not even sure if this is the right thread for it, but since you guys have been so kind in helping me all this time, I feel better asking here. Perhaps you could guide me)

So my satria neo plan, is still unsure. I have tried many banks, bad luck with all of them. Only one final bank loan application remaining, and if this one says no to a good loan amount, I wont be able to apply for any bank loan for a while, and then due to some circumstances with my visa (as I will be moving to a different company this year later), looks like I wont be able to apply for another car loan till next year February.

So meanwhile, I will have then time to do 2 things:

1. To back off for a while, and save money for a higher downpayment for next year, so I do not have the same issue again next year.

2. My current kancil 660 (2001 modle) is almost dead. As in, it has TOO MANY issues and fixes to do, which might properly cost me around 2.5-3k to fix. So I was thinking, why not get a very cheap temporary car for now, which is better than my Kancil atleast, so it can last me for some good time (a year or 2 MAX), till I plan for a nicer better car in future. The cheap car would mean I might have to spend a bit more than the crapped up kancil I have for now, and it will be a much better car to last me a while. This would be direct buy, no loans etc. Lets call it the 'Interim Car'.

For this, I was looking around choices, which would be around 4.5-5k for the car. I found a NAZA Sutera (1100cc), being sold by an owner on Facebook. This is a 2007 model, and he seems to have maintained it and taken care of it really well. He has changed a lot of parts recently. The overall car, along with all new changed parts, and everything else, is going for around 5k. Here is a few things he said in a chat recently:

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mounting rubber 180rm (Have to replace sometime in future soon)
Drive Shaft 150rm. (Have to replace sometime in future soon)
Paint chip on right side was there when I bought.
And small dent on back door left side from taxi.
Insurance road tax till 2017 worth 700rm+
Interior no issues at all. Very clean. may be get new steering cover.
Tyres good for about 6 months, the back ones. Front wheels no problem.
Blue led light in Floor of car, looks cool at night.
Passenger window doesn't open from when I bought but I don't open Coz in Malaysia aircon is a necessity. It is very cold. New compressor, air filter etc. Worth 1500
Drive Shaft only makes noise when you are turning steering full.
Engine is very stong. Went up genting without stopping once
Every 5000km when I go for maintenance I changed something new.

New parts are (all changed within last year)
- left drive shaft
- Fuel pump
- Aircon compressor
- Clutch cable
- Clutch plate
- Brakes front and back
- Battery
- Spark plugs

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now, I have seen lots of reviews of the Naza Sutera, and they do not paint a very pretty picture honestly. But I have a suspicion, they might be comparing it to better cars like Myvi. I wanted to know, is the above specific Sutera, a good choice for a decent temporary car for a couple of years? Specially as compared to my 2001 Kancil 660ex? As this is a temporary car, its only 5k, with new parts, and it would replace my kancil, so I am mainly thinking, is it a better replacement, for that price and above specs?

I would really appreciate any honest reviews or help with this and let me know what you guys think. Trust you all a lot so it would really help me make a decision.

Thanks a LOT as always guys.

i dont own a NAZA Sutera (is that how you spell it?? i cant seem to spell it), but i its one of those cars i personally would not poke even with a stick.... if im not wrong (again this is heresay, i dont own one) parts can e more difficult and expensive to source.... there is a reason why its so cheap

whats wrong with the kancil btw.... should be an easy car to deal with

Hm, Thanks for the input. The rest of the internet seems to hold the same view.

Well my Kancil, I have been using for years now, and because its old, it keeps getting issues.
Currently, it has issues with drive shaft, ball bearings (all), carburetor, engine too (a prev mechanic said that the engine is kinda really gone, so needs full servicing and replacement of stuff which would cost 1200 for the engne thingy alone), aircon compressor gone (needs replacement which will also cost around 1k++), engine oil finishes pretty quickly compared to before, etc. These are the major major problems. I am sure there are some minor ones too.

So you see, fixing these itself could go around 3-3.5k, and at the end of it all, I still have a 660cc car with no power steering, no proper music system, really old lookin exterior, not such a good interior, etc.


So which is why I was looking into a cheaper car, like 5k, so that if I spend 5k, might as well get something newer, better?

Ouhh... Would ask you to get a 2nd opinion but all in all, Car sounds very worn.... Maybe you should just look for a simple to maintain car since it looks like its very difficult for you to get a loan.... Actually 2nd hand cars like vivas or axias are pretty cheap, easy to maintain and cheap to run...

Actually I have gotten loans approved, but not for high amounts, which makes my downpayment very painful. So the basic idea is to collect money for a bigger downpayment in the near future, meanwhile use a car that is cheap and ok.

I was also thinking on the lines that, perhaps if the Naza is really that bad, maybe I should just overhaul my kancil afterall, since no other option. Maybe I should check prices with my mechanic to see how much it might cost n all..

dont know if its worth overhauling the kancil for that kind of money..... u wont be able to sell it for that much...... especially if the body and interior are run down... u have lots to think about before you start pouring money into the car

Hm.. yeah ur right there as well.. haha.. so then im back to square one.
You see why I am all confused and all?

I have asked this as a separate forum topic too. Perhaps some others might know..

Bro, why not consider a cheap new car? Trade in your kancil for downpayment for a Proton Persona SV? < RM50k

Or Perodua that offers 100% loan and get Axia. You sound like you have a clean financial record.

Something that old rebuilding and fixing up and spray painting is only worth it if you have sentimental value. Otherwise scrap the Kancil.

Thanks for the advice bro.

Yes my financial record is clean, but I am a foreigner, so getting loans for me is super complex, and nearly impossible to get loan which I want.
My Kancil is so old and has problems, it might fetch me just 1.5k haha, so not even enough for d/p.

I am not looking into the sutera anymore. Too many bad reviews.

I am researching getting second hand cheaper cars now, which allow for loan, but are also good, and I can afford d/p one. My current choices of research are:

1. Proton Gen2 (2007 model) [coz auto, 1.6 and under 10k]
2. Proton Saga (2005 model) [1.3, manual]
3. Proton Waja (2006 model) [1.6, auto]


Any ideas or verdict on these?

As a foreigner, those cars will give you headaches. Can I ask how much is comfortable in terms of d/p? Why can't you consider a new car since you can get loan for a used car?

Anyway, if you have a choose a used car, you're better off buying direct off a seller not through those used car salesmen. You'll get ripped off left right and center.

Depending on your budget I could recommend a low maintenance and cheap to repair car. Personally - if you have a budget of 10 to 15k, a good Wira wouldn't be too far fetched. Or a Satria 1.5. These two are the cheapest to maintain and have parts readily available everywhere and anywhere in M'sia. You could find a decent one for about 7k and using about 3-4k can spruce it up with a full engine service, interior touch up, paint job all in. If you don't want paint, decent rims and good tyres can do wonders.

If your budget is bigger, a brand new Axia is the better option. About 30k to 40k region.

Waja and Gen2 are in the generation of Protons that had problems every other day. Door handles breaking off, off-center steering wheel, power window issues, central locking issues, etc.

Saga isn't too bad, but for a 2005 car, you can do better.

saga, satria, wira.... these 3 are tanks... they will keep soldiering on and on if you maintain them....

If want to mod with supercharge, which neo should i get? The R3 neo limited 145hp or Neo CPS R3 125hp?