Having used both claycloth and claybar before, I would say so long as u arent going into the detail of using the plastic bag glove test on your car, then clay cloth or mitt should work perfectly fine. Just remember to store them well and it should also last a long time.

Yes, plastic bag glove test is most logically used only when u plan to do paint correction. It is probably abit more overkill if claying to perfection just to apply protection. I have tried it before, lol.

Well, personally I find black and white paints to be exception to many rules, because both being at opposite ends of the color chart, that means certain defects are more visible to them than others.

Having said so, very recently I did clay my wife's black Toyota prior to applying protection. Nothing crazy like plastic bag testing, just light single pass claying with my claybar cuz almost whole year didnt do much. Does bring back the deep black gloss quite well.

Based on my experience, to clay to the point of passing the plastic bag glove test, clay cloth/mitt requires more effort per section compared to claybar. In saying so, my experience was based upon the typical clay cloth vs Meguiars Pro Aggressive claybar on 2-5 years old cars that had never been detailed before. It can take 6-8 rounds of claying with the cloth on what would take 2-3 rounds on the bar to pass the plastic bag glove test.

Having said so, since we are a regular home detailer, this may not apply to us since we care for our cars regularly. So best to gauge based on your use case.

If u still have your detailing gear, then u could consider doing detailing as a part time income hobby among family and friends. Dont need to charge shop price, just minum makan price also okay. The joy of detailing doesnt need to be confined to your own vehicle.

Think that one bucket system is one thing, but knowing these kinda wash places, its same bucket for all cars system. Hehehe...

If budget not issue, Rupes. If budget is issue, Osren, ShineMate.

I personally using Rupes LHR21Mk2 and Nano iBrid, not yet ROI after 3-4 years owning them cuz rarely use (maybe 1-2 times a year only). Abit regret buying, lol.

Erm, as everyone said, that B&D model is pretty much only good for waxing, does very little when it comes to polish.

If budget is a major concern, u can also try opt for vertical rotary polisher from MYDIY (check them out on facebook). However, a strong word of caution, rotary polishing is a fairly advanced skill and system, hence the easier Dual-Action/Orbital (DA) machines are more popular (and also more expensive).

I would suggest before u deep dive into a machine, perhaps consider checking youtube on rotary polishing vs DA polishing. Alternatively if u have spare time and if Osren's office is convenient to ur location, then consider visiting at minimum, or even signing up for their classes as they will cover machine polishing also.

Lol, no promises I want to really sell, but kalau minat boleh PM untuk bincang.

From personal experience (as some of the forumers know me here), coated cars have a much higher tendency of water spotting that would be hard to remove. Adding on to that would be your car parking under trees. We may think parking under trees helps to keep the car cooler during a hot day, but apart from bro woodentiger86 comment, I would like to add that dust will also stick on tree leaves, and when it rains, all those dust will be pulled by the raindrops and down to your car underneath. That alone pretty much makes your car dirtier faster, and combined with potential tree sap and bird poo, its just a mega car paint disaster waiting to happen.

Sorry, think u may have misunderstood my statement. When I said "all those dust will be pulled by the raindrops and down to your car underneath", what I meant is your car is underneath the tree. The dirt and dust and leaves will fall on your car during rain.

Hmm, if I am guessing it correctly, the liquid they spray is either ONR type, or some form of diesel, or some concentrated chemical cleaner. However, damaging your screen may not be very probable, but there could be wiper damage.

To know for sure, give a thorough wash of your windscreen with your home dishsoap or glass cleaner if u have it, then give it a round of good claying. Consider claying your wipers also for good measure.

However, I would not suggest using alcohol to rub your wipers, as from experience alcohol can end up drying your wiper and make it crack.

Yes, I know there is a component of alcohol in most glass cleaner, but not sure about wiper fluid because I dont use it.

I am just saying based on my personal experience alcohol can harden rubber and cause it to crack.

If u are interested to share a different understanding/experience about it, do feel free.

Mmm, as I recall there are forums from detailing products sites like Autogeek, Meguiars, etc. Personally I dont visit anymore cuz detailing interest shrink.

Mmm, firstly the most common product type for glass would be a product that contains Cerium Oxide, and the one product that comes into my mind (because I have it) is Carpro Ceriglass. This product is used like a polishing cream, but designed specifically for glass.

However, glass polishing creams are great for removing heavy buildup of traffic film, water spots, etc., but when it comes to removing scratches, it may or may not be effective. The reason is that unlike paint, glass is an extremely hard surface.

Nonetheless, here is an article of Carpro Ceriglass review for reference.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/produc...-ceriglass.html

U can consider trying this product or similar products that contain Cerium Oxide to try removing or at least lightening the scratches on your glass.

From the description of your case, tar remover, u can purchase from Osren, or even ACE Hardware if lazy to travel far. Just spray, leave for short while, and wipe to remove. Repeat if required, but the cloth u use to remove the tar residue should be thrown away after that.

Yes, cars fresh out of respray is usually polished one round, but havent heard of after respray come back later to polish. Usually its done after paint cures.

I dont think u should DIY hand polish, but should be done by the shop.


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Mmm, I'm not very sure if its to get rid of orange peel per se. I believe it could be also to remove excess residue of paint particles that didnt fully adhere to the body.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BV0PMYfc3o

Just a video for more understanding.

Lol, maybe its viewing angles from camera kua. Or probably they didnt chase orange peel removal also. I only know that even from factory finishes they also polish one round, but never knew what were they specifically chasing after.

Hi everyone.

Just a tip with M105/205, dont work it too long, it flashes pretty fast. A spray bottle of plain water on the sides can help with lube.

Actually, its not entirely impossible, u could always try polish by hand if no power source nearby for machine, and u could always work in evenings with some portable lights when sun goes down.

Even back when I used to live in my parents place, there are some days I lazy do the wash part, so I bring car to wash, then come back just give a light damp wipe before doing the other detailing works like claying, polishing, waxing.

Work with what u have, can be done.

I know I shouldnt be recommending this, but Osren StainX works for me. Strong acid though, have to work with extreme caution and with paint and personal safety in mind.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNPtBeyOlNA

Just sharing.

Tried before, not great. Main problem was speed lacking a variation control compared to a proper polisher tool.

Mmm, still wouldnt recommend. Ideally u need to start with the lowest RPM so that u wont easily lose control. A typical rotary polisher starts around 600rpm.

Try only at own risk, else safer route is hand polish.

Yes, there is a possibility to create some mild water spots if u let the shampoo dry before rinsing, especially if its a hot day. It is always recommended to rinse shampoo off before it starts to dry. U can consider shampoo half car then rinse then shampoo the other half then rinse again.

Clay may not be very effective if the water spot has hardened for a period of time. Clay can probably remove mild and more fresh water spots, but not older ones.

I dont think Osren will sell StainX on shopee or lazada because this is strong acid.

https://osren.com/product/solutions/all/stainx

I personally had always compound/polish for water spots, but I have also encountered water spots that cannot be removed by compound/polish. So StainX comes to the rescue in those situations. Again, its super strong stuff, always wear self protection (gloves, mask, goggles if possible), and rinse quickly after rubbing StainX.