Dont worry, plan your time to do a full detail one day. My DA also lies idle most of the time, and I need to plan my time when wanna do complete detailing so that I dont get distracted in between.

Erm, sorry but I'm the opposite where I usually dont apply anything after wash. In fact, ideally I will use Super Degreaser to wash the tyres until extremely clean and leave it with its natural tyre shine. Whenever I do use some form of tyre shine it would be Carpro PERL cuz I can apply to the wheel arches and other plastic trims as well. Only reason I do that is because PERL is quite bang for buck, lol.

Hmm, firstly I would say skip your 4th step. After compounding, polishing should remove whatever compounding haze or holograms.

Secondly, u will need to go abit more detail on your plan, such as how do u plan to compound/polish your car, whether by hand or by machine.

Thirdly, skip step 6 as your step 3 and 5 already does what meta clean is supposed to do and even more. Replace step 6 with IPA wipedown to remove polishing oils residue.

Fourthly, I kinda think Soft99 Premium Authentic Wax and Soft99 Luxury Gloss would provide similar gloss enhancement function, but since u are applying Fusso Coat as the base, then I would say skip the Premium Authentic Wax and just apply Luxury Gloss after that.

That is just my 2 sen.

Mmm, think my suggestion stands as it is. Personally I would think the Premium Authentic and Luxury Gloss to be of similar wax class, which is to provide gloss enhancement. The reason I suggest to drop Premium Authentic is because it is a paste wax, so it is possible that it may contain solvents that can degrade your Fusso Coat base.

However, generally I think u have protection aspects of detailing covered more than enough (perhaps abit of overkill to some extent). Just perhaps consider what would be convenient for u once ur regular maintenance kicks in.

Yes, u can try, get some compound or polish and test.

Mmm, based on experience, pressure jets are able to remove loose dirt more efficiently, but not stubborn dirt that normal DIY car wash cant remove. As it were, when u DIY wash, u would be using a wash mitt to scrub your car with soap already, so that scrubbing pressure would be as strong if not stronger than pressure washer in terms of loosening dirt from your car prior to rinsing.

As u mentioned your car is white, dirt is most noticeable compared to other cars. Perhaps consider using a cleaner wax to rid of the stubborn dirt.

From the pic, I would say the paint quality still looks good! Kudos for the good care!

Mmm, that is a tough one, as have not come across a detailing shop that even uses it. Maybe some of the really high end ones might, but they would cost a bomb.

Exactly. Perhaps if u wanna go the pro detailer's route like what we see on youtube, then consider DIY instead. Detailing can be a fun and very satisfying hobby.

If u want easy, drop by Osren in Kepong and ask their sales there. They can get u sorted right away.

For interior detailing, the most budget way is APC, brushes, microfiber towels and plenty of elbow grease. Some of the brushes u can check out places like AEON or ACE hardware, a medium or soft bristle brush is quite easy to find there.

Erm, Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax is HCW. Osren Hydro Ceramic Shield is HCS. Which product are u referring to?

In my first application of Osren HCS, I applied all over the place, paintwork, naked trims, windshields, etc.

I would say for parents or elderly folks, the easier the better. So my recommendation would be Megs ultimate quick wax, or any spray quick waxes or quick detailers. My assumption is most elderly folks may not be so in tune with the specifics nor would they be very interested, so anything that can spray on and buff off with minimal streaking should work for them just fine.

Try check out Magic Boo, as I know some users found IPA there as well. as IPA is highly flammable substance, shipping would be quite difficult if not very expensive. Hunting it down at your own locality is always a better bet.

Another grade u can consider is electronics grade IPA (used to clean flux and other gunks off electronics boards). This u can try find from your local DIY electronics store (the shops that sell stuff for u to do soldering electronic components).

Medical grade is probably hardest to come by as usually sold to hospitals. However, some pharmacies may carry (rarely seen), but I know for sure they carry those small alcohol swabs.

IPA is commonly used as a rinse-free method of removing polishing oils. So if really cannot find IPA, then re-wash your car with diluted dishsoap as your wash soap to remove oils residue.

Precaution when parking under trees, while they may be great for shades from a hot day, but apart from dust and whatnots that falls off the tree during rainfall like u mentioned, there's also the worry of tree sap and other material dropping. Worse is during evenings, some birds like to hangout together in the tree and creates a potential for bird poop bombing for cars underneath it.

The worst that I had seen from my previous detail shop days was a client parked under a tree not realising there was an ant nest at its base and the ants swarmed the car. It took me numerous hours with bug spray, interior cleaning and vacuuming to rid the ants.

My general advice for cars with good car care regime and decent tinting, better to park out in the open. Just my 2 sen.

Me thinks Meguiars Ultimate Polish, Osren's Nao Glaze 26 and Perfect Cut 20 should do the trick. However, even though they dont leave any waxes, they will leave polishing oils.

Also, its hard to judge a flat clearcoat unless u go microscopic. With a typical flashlight, so long as there are no more haze/holograms and fine swirls, it should be fine. A trick I use to judge a good polish is when the circular reflection of the flashlight on the panel doesnt have "tails". This takes practice and experience. Its easier to explain it visually than typing it here.

Hope this helps.

Mmm, perhaps try ONR Wash & Wax. Similar if not same outcome, more bang for buck at least because of dilution.

Erm, I use Goodmaid Glass Cleaner, can be purchased off AEON. Works the same, probably way cheaper. Try it out.

I've been using it for some years, clean all glass matters with it, works very good for me. Try it out first since u have it, no harm.

Hmm, that stain that comes from your car porch ceiling is some form of cement residue if not mistaken. U should handle with care because trying to scrub it off too hard may induce scratches, even on glass. For your glass, using a razor blade and gently scraping may be able to remove most of it.

Hmm, piano finish is quite tough to restore. Mine also has scratches but I did nothing other than regular damp wiping because I worry if I attempt to polish, the remaining haze will be quite difficult to finish. The main issue is unlike car paint which I know is made of clearcoat topping, I dont know what is made of the piano finish for interiors.

Perhaps other sifus here can share a more meaningful experience in dealing with this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4an83rCMPK0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0vCMo7EyFY

This is my reference point for not doing my interior piano finish. Hope it helps.

U could try compounding by machine and polishing/finishing by hand, that could work.

Lol, now u understand why I am hesitant to polish piano finish stuff.

Just something that came across my mind. Many years ago when I was a kid, I used to play Tamiya toy cars, and there was a black car body that I polished to a fairly high gloss finish. However, instead of using a car polish that was meant to work on clearcoats, I used plastic polish (I think it was Autosol).

So apart from M205 on Meguiars range, u could try the likes of PlastX. Do go gently though.