On top of what pro Celciuz recommended, u will need 1-2 wash buckets (can be purchased from AEON), 2 good wash mitts (1 for rims and wheel arches exclusively, one for the rest of the car exterior), 1-2 medium/big microfiber drying towels, 4-6 small microfiber drying/detailing towels, and 2-4 applicator pads (for applying your tyre dressing, wax, interior protectants). With all that then u should be ready to go.

For mitts and cloths, I kinda prefer to go to detailing places to get them. Having bought from both places like AEON and online, I find that its quite easy to get the poor quality type because for them is just sales and no R&D involved. At least places like Osren or even detailing specialty online stores would have probably done some testing their products and "certify" them good quality for car detailing usage.

Ahhh, all for the sake of keeping our ride beautiful.

As far as I know, waxes are okay with rims, though due to the heat when driving, the waxes will naturally melt off quicker than usual. If u watch some of the detailers on youtube, there are some who do apply wax on their rims and claim that it makes it easier to clean off brake dust because of it.

I applied Carpro PERL on my wheel wells before, it gives back a nice black finish on the arches. However, the applicator or towel u use for the application or buff-off would end up quite dirty. Make sure the applicator u use is not the one u sayang.

Nope, too much hassle. Besides, rims tightened by machine often are much tighter than what our hands with wrench can do, so I prefer not to mess with it.

Actually the semi-OCD way is plainly to get a car jack and lift up enough of the car to create more space between the wheels and arches, then most likely any hand or arm can go in to apply the entire arch. Once the tyre is just a little bit off the ground, that is all the space u can get (which is plenty). Not necessary to remove the wheels for it.

Get this is more than enough:
https://shopee.com.my/3-Ton-Portable-Heavy-...3511.2337854775

Get this if u are extra lazy to crank:
https://shopee.com.my/MY-DIY-Emergency-Port...7541.1737624594

Hand to heart, I am the lazy man, and lazy men thinks the most efficient way of doing things, lol.

In detailing, its always the shop psycho customer, not the other way round.

Mmm, if u do a hard degreaser wash on the wheel wells until clean enough to kiss, the the PERL could last a little longer. However, if u wanna spray into the arch just as is without really thorough cleaning, there isnt much durability to speak of. I think have to be realistic in expectations of any protections for wheel arches as alot of road dirt, mud water and grime will just whack off any protection u put on with relative ease.

All is not lost though, the PERL is highly dilutable, so very value for money that u can reapply over and again without feeling wallet pinch. And the blacker look on the arches does help make your rims pop out.

Lol, actually we arent, cuz everytime visit high chance of blowing budget. But we go anyways.

I think they do accept credit card, but normally I pay cash because I dowan blow budget, lol.

Sorry, think I misread your previous statement. No perl is not meant for painted stuff. For ur rims probably go with any wax or spray sealants that works with painted surfaces. However, just to be mindful also that rims also get alot of grime from road, so there’s only so much durable that u can put.

Yes, I tell uncle Heng I using Rupes and he still try pancing me buy his Osren to have variety. Lol.

Mmm, looks like stain to me. Try feeling it with your fingers between the unaffected and affected area, if the is the difference in height then could be clearcoat peel (which honestly shouldnt be). Try to clay/polish and see if it comes off.

Hmm, clearcoat failure, maybe poor paint quality? New car or old? Respray before?

Condensation happens due to humidity and temperature difference. Inside temperature if set very cold, then outside humid air when hit on your windshield will condensate. Consider to set aircond temperature higher and see if it helps. I usually set between 22-24C and dont face as much of this issue.

Try visiting any detailing shop for nano mist service. Some have advertized that their nano mist can shoo the bugs out of the car.

Erm, does that look like your clearcoat peeled off along with your badge? Do u see clearcoat residue on your badge? Or this only appeared after u used your adhesive remover?

Possibly try to hand-polish to reduce all the scratches around the edges, but unless u stick back the badge, u probably need to respray that section.

Hmm, lets start from the beginning, when u run ur finger between the area where the badge was and the area next to it, which one feels higher? If the area where the badge was feels higher, then like what bro woodentiger86 mentioned, could be adhesive residue. If that is the case, then I recommend try zippo lighter fluid, rubbing alcohol, or Goo Gone to rid the adhesive. Be careful not to let it drip all over the place in case nearby areas also have things glued together.

If area where badge was feels deeper/lower than surrounding areas, then possibly its clearcoat peeled off, and nothing much can be done except polish where u can, and respray if u have the budget.

Sooo, I had the opportunity to try out Osren's new Hydro Ceramic Shield. Its pretty much the same range as the popular P&S Bead Maker, Carpro Reload, Meguiars Hydro Ceramic Wax, etc.

In the past, me and another detailing friend had this discussion about how we read many reviews about how the products from overseas are very durable, just to bring it to our shores and watch it perform sub-par compared to what was written. My friend has the conclusion that it is due to the difference in climate, as we are in a tropical country with high humidity and slightly more acidic type of rain, which causes the popular sealant brands to fail in our climate despite the rave reviews from overseas. Hence came Osren to make a sealant product that carries the popular and similar SiO2 protection, but crafted for our climate.

I managed to apply it to 2 cars. Car 1 is my wife's black Toyota, which under her care it is a daily driver to work and medium distance driver back to her parents place in Subang. Car 2 is my silver Honda, which me being a work from home guy, not driven so often and less distance traveled. As both of us live in a condo, our parking is mostly indoors. I applied to both cars after fresh from wash and dried. Here I would like to share some observations:

1) Ease of application: Quite easy, can apply to most surfaces, so I applied to both cars on all panels, windows and even naked trims. Only exception were wheel arches and rims. Application method is similar to Carpro Reload, which is shake frequently, squirt onto microfiber cloth, apply on and use separate cloth to buff off.

2) Slickness: Compared to Carpro Reload (my only reference point), it doesnt seem to be as slick, only provides marginally increased slickness during application and post buff off.

3) Gloss enhancement: Increased, as I noticed in both applications the before and after there is a slight increase in glossiness. I believe it may not beat wax when it comes to gloss enhancement, but still good.

4) Streaking potential: No, I didnt see any streaking post buff off. I suspect because it is not as slick and oily, so it also isnt so easy to cause streaking unless an excessive amount was used.

5) Durability: Unsure yet, but my wife definitely enjoyed the Rain-X like beading of water on the windscreens.

So the application has only been done in the last week for my wife's car, and yesterday for my car. I will update again once I have more results in weeks down the line.

I was also told that the first application of this product should be done on a dry car. However, subsequent applications (as a topper) can be done post wash with a self-diluted version of this product. Apparently its just spray on the car after wash before drying (as a topper and drying aid), then dry all at one go. If that is true and the durability holds with our climate, then this may well become the most value-for-money product we have in the market.

Anyways, this is just my 2 sen. Perhaps fellow forumers here can give consideration to Osren's product as well.

This post has been edited by blurcase: Aug 21 2019, 12:23 PM

Osren Hydro Ceramic Shield will cost RM120 for 1 liter of the product. If used as topper or drying aid after washing car, can be diluted up to 1:4. So that makes it quite bang for buck.


Can u take a more angled picture of the dent? Need to see if dent has only scratches, or there is an actual dent. Then only we can give some better suggestions.


Looks good overall, though I guess we have to be realistic about the beading part. If beading isnt doing too well but sheeting is still good, then me thinks still good to go.

Hmm, looking at the scuff mark, it looks abit like minor dent. However, since bumpers are plastic, dents isnt something u can do much about. For the scuff mark itself, u could try to polish it to make it less visible.