For clay lube, tap water is fine as long as got some filter. If u living in landed house and have that torpedo looking water filter outside then more than enough. If in condo then maybe your own drinking water is also good enough. Not necessary to use distilled water for clay lube, save it for maybe diluting IPA or something else.

Put a blob of compound on the edge of a microfiber cloth, gently rub and see if helps. It may not remove everything as it looks quite deep, but should make it better.


Personally I go with claybar, as I clay the entire car with it. However, I wish to say again there is no glass-specific claybar as it is a general use product for car exterior claying.

Orange peel wont be something u wanna chase unless u willing to go for wetsanding or compounding with jeans pad. With a new car also, giving it a first round light polish and waxing should be quite sufficient for the long run.

Squeegee is a big no no. If u have issues properly drying your car when doing ONR wash, then u need more dry microfiber towels, ideally bigger and thicker ones that can absorb more. A good microfiber drying towel, even when already somewhat damp, wont leave enough water on windscreen to streak or spot.

The dark car swirl look dont often come by unless u have had some years of neglect. As long as u maintain good washing technique and tools, u should be fine.

For microfiber towels, unfortunately going cheap via MR DIY or places like ACE Hardware isnt going to cut it unless u are buying Meguiar's drying towel (which is damn expensive btw). Feel free to visit Osren or SGCB to buy bigger towels for drying purposes. The towel I use is 60cm x 40cm, just to give u an idea. Alternatively, https://www.fireballmalaysia.com/collection...-3-size-options

Yes, the idea is either natural flow from hose or pail of water splash. Thats why many car wash shops splash water at the end of their rinse, its not to give car final rinse but to sheet water off so that easier to dry.

Although kinda wrong thread because here discuss more about beautifying and maintaining cars, but as far as I know there is no restriction or limitation on who can buy an electric vehicle. I have known all sorts of ppl buying electric vehicles and there is no confinement of any form. Unless I am reading your question wrongly, then this is all I know.

Erm, this is polish, not protection. Polish is used to remove a thin layer of your clearcoat and restore natural shine to your car, it does not add a layer of protection unlike Fusso Coat etc.

As to usage method, one way to try is to buff off before your polish becomes too dry, else u will face that issue. To know is the polish has come to the end of its cycle, use your finger and swipe over the polish, if it rubs off cleanly then its time to buff off the rest.

Hard to say, probably u need to know the product they use. However, u are paying not just for product, but also service, so if u think RM190 is affordable to u every 6 months, no one will argue with u.

As per my comment above. I encounter similar issues with Meguiars M105 compound, where it flashes dry too fast and almost impossible to buff off. So end up have to have shorter working time with it so that I can buff it off while its still somewhat wet/damp.

Just to make sure I clarify the distinction again, polish cannot be used the same way as waxes or sealants like Fusso Coat. They are 2 totally different products for 2 totally different uses. If u have swirls, scratches, marring, etc, then polish helps to remove them. It does absolutely nothing when it comes to adding protection to your clearcoat.

Once u are done polishing your car, then applying your QD, spray wax or even Fusso Coat comes into play to protect your clearcoat.

Hope u understand the difference.

Yes, especially m105 dries particularly fast, so have to wipe off quicker than usual. M205 on the other hand is far more forgiving, so gives a much longer working time and much more joyful to use.

As for the waxes u mentioned, unfortunately I dont have solid facts to tell u because I have not tried either products before. However, from my past readings, my theory is Collinite 476 should not cause as much water spots as compared to Fusso Coat. Fusso Coat's immense durability is what causes it to bead and spot more (similar to typical ceramic coatings), whereas Collinite 476 is more sacrificial, so u remove water spots as u remove the wax when washing. That is my theory.

Well, it doesnt necessarily have to be cheap wax to be your sacrificial layer on top of durable protections. But any form of quality spray wax or sealant should help to be good sacrificial layer against tough protections like Fusso and coatings.

I am assuming your trim area is painted same colour as the rest of your car, yes? Try compound and polish by hand, should have some improvement for a majority of the scuffs. And residue only appear if u leave it to dry without buffing the residue off.

However if your trim is unpainted, then not much u can do except mask it with trim protectant (designed for naked plastic parts and trims).

Technical term: IsoPropyl Alcohol

If u are as old as me, this used to be called tape-head cleaning alcohol. Other common terms is rubbing alcohol.

For unpainted trims, give it a good wash with some APC or dishsoap or car soap, then use any trim protectant u like. U can even use your tyre dressing if u want.

However, since its unpainted, dont compound/polish/wax, as what u said it will leave white residue when dry. Compound/polish/wax is only for painted surfaces.

If u are interested to have some value for money protectant for unpainted trims or interior, u can consider Carpro PERL, or u can also contact Osren for their UV Dressing or Reblack.

Yup, works fine.

Clay (whether claybar/cloth/mitt/pad), all can be reused. For claybar, I would recommend keeping it back in the tub or box that it came with and give it a light squirt of quick detailer before storage. Keep out of sun and heat.

If clay cloth/mitt/pad, usually the way to keep it is in any plastic container filled with water and covered up (I usually use containers like the cookie containers that ppl sell during festive season).

Maybe the ONR may have broken down your claybar. I keep it in my container and squirt quick detailer in it and store, no issues. If keeping it in its original box without any fluids to keep it moist works for u, then keep doing so. However claybar definitely isnt the "soak into tub full of water type", just bits of fluid will do to keep it from sticking around the walls of the container.

Sorry double post.

This post has been edited by blurcase: Aug 2 2019, 05:03 PM

Erm, I do hope u understand that polishing function is to remove defects, and wax is to add protection. Depending on what u wanna do, then those are the products u use them for. Sometimes when u just polish a section and leave the rest, u will find that that section will stand out from the rest, making your paintwork look uneven.

Jalan Pasar electronics shop can get electronics grade IPA, also not expensive. RM20+ the last I paid for 1 liter bottle.

Does your condo have wash bay? If yes, then u can get car wash soap, some buckets, wash mitt, a microfiber drying towel and few detailing towels.

If no then u may need to consider Optimum No Rinse (ONR) rinseless wash as your "soap", and more microfiber towels to both "wash" and dry.

Pay a visit to Osren and u can complete your starting kit there.

Oh sorry, Osren is based in Kepong, KL. U can pay a visit to their website to see what they have, then go to their FB page and PM them to order.

http://osren.com/home

That's the idea, lololol.