Agreed on the noise of the air compressor. However, these days I have found that there are new generation air compressors that generate less noise, some are called quiet or ultra quiet air compressors. Prior to moving to condo, I did consider of getting one to try, lol.

Besides, the other plus side of an air compressor over an air blower is all u are carrying around would be the air gun hose (assuming u bought a long hose). That is lighter than air blower anytime. Oh and 3rd plus side is that if u are polishing and need to blow out your pads, then air compressor is there.

Among the important things to air compressors is learning how to service your unit, remembering to empty the air once finish using for the day, and ideally getting a filter for the intake. I recall with my old air compressor from shop days, without the filter there is water in the tank due to moisture from the air compressed in. When I let the air out at the end of the day, there is rusty water coming out at the outlet. Sometimes even when using the airgun, the initial blowing will have water coming out.

https://www.facebook.com/mydiymydiy/

Check this place out for cheaper air compressors.

Unless the contaminant is tougher than glass, then I dont think it could have made such scratches. There is that possibility that it was there but covered by watermarks, but on order to know for sure, try cleaning your other windows with other methods. However, just remember as always, handle acid with great care. Sorry to sound like a broken radio, dont want my detailing friends here to risk their life for detailing.

Mmm, perhaps I should try to clarify that the quality isnt just in the coating alone per se, but also the polishing required. Regardless whether new or old car, or whether u DIY or send outside to do, if u want to apply coating then u should first try to make your paint surface as flawless as possible. That means substantial polishing work before coating. When it comes to proper coating, u also sacrifice numerous microfiber towels that can no longer be used after buffing off coating residue. Hence, those are among the reasons why coating services are charged higher.

Also, I would say every product has its price point. Cheap gets cheap quality and expensive gets better quality. It would not be fair that u assume that a shop detailer is charging u over RM1k using an RM10 product u found online. Besides, shops also tend to provide some warranty and maintenance care to your coated car, so all these things bundled in created the value.

Hmm, unfortunately there isnt much u can do as far as I know. Glass isnt exactly a soft surface where u can grind off scratches. U can try some glass polish and machine polishing, but be prepared to end up either closing one eye on the issue or change your entire windscreen.

Wouldnt it make more sense to get an extra long hose for the air compressor? Most air compressors arent that great for lugging around, even if they have wheels.

Wow, my apologies, I thought your air compressor was purchased for detailing purposes so expected it to be at the car porch as well. Dont think it would make sense to pull such a long hose then.

Claying is broken down to 2 main equipment required, claybar/claypad/claycloth and clay lubricant. For claybar, as bro V429 stated, got a few brands that are common, so choose which suits your budget. I would also suggest to cut the claybar in half when first purchased so that u have half that is unused and use half first to give u best value for money for your claybar. If u are going for claycloth or claypad, there are plenty coming from China and I believe it is quite generic, so pick any that suits your budget. That being said, from my personal experience claybar does a better job in claying than claycloth/claypads, but I think results may vary with other folks.

For clay lubricant, u can either consider quick detailers (more costly) or Optimum No Rinse (ONR) (more value for money).

The reason claying may create new scratch is because as u are pulling embedded contaminants from your paint (especially stuff like tar and bug residue), the contaminants stuck on existing surface of claybar is being dragged to other sections, hence the contaminants may create new scratches. That is why in order to reduce the chance that happening, u work on small sections, and regularly fold and reopen fresh new surfaces on your claybar. For claypad and claycloth u would need to regularly rinse it to get rid of residue. If u are diligent enough to do this, then the chance of creating too much scratches that require u to polish your car will be much lesser.

Storage for claybar is usually straightforward, spray some quick detialer or ONR in the container that u plan to store your claybar before throwing the claybar in, then keep in a place out of the sun and heat. For claycloth/claypad, it is recommended to store in a jar filled with water to avoid the clay surface of the cloth/pad from drying out. Usually a plastic cookie jar that u get during festive season should work just fine. Just make sure the jar is filled full with water, then immerse your pad/cloth in and let excess water flow out before closing the lid tight. Storing also same with claybar.

U will need some more thorough cleaning, and also some disinfectants of sorts. If the milo had seeped deep into the foam under the seat covers and base carpets, u may need to try something like febreeze to remove it, or even acids like vinegar. Also, placing some charcoal in the car should help reduce the overall smell.

DIY removal of insects is abit harder and more risky, but one way I know is to full blast aircond then spray some bug spray and let it circulate within the car. However, for health reasons, after doing so it is required for u to give a thorough wipedown of your entire car interior to remove residue of bug spray.

The potentially easier way for u to remove bugs is u may want to consider bringing to a shop for nano mist service. I dont know exactly the chemical used, but many ads I see on nano mist says it can kill bugs, remove odor, and safe for us after use.

99% fake. If u hunt for the real 3M claybar, it comes in a black jar with the model number label. I bought before these fake ones for cheap, and they are really rubbish.

Hmm, sorry to say I never did bother searching for it because I would never know for sure unless I order them from places like Autogeek. For the price paid including shipping from overseas, I opted instead for Meguiars professional clay bar, pretty much same size as the 3M one, I cut it into 4 and use 1 until today still good.

Think I have seen some shop ads that say they can kill bugs and bacteria and odour with nano mist. Perhaps it may not actually do so much of kill, but instead shoo the bugs to get out of the car.

Perhaps ur experiment requires a small chamber with bugs, then a small tunnel to another chamber to see if the bugs do run away from the mist.

While it is true that many detailing products are sold cheaper via shopping website, just beware of some that could potentially be clone products. So far as I know, there are plenty cases of 3M claybar clones, and if not mistaken some cases of Soft99 Fusso coat clones as well.

Personally while I have not tried it myself, I think no harm in trying the vertical rotary polishers that come cheap from MYDIY. As long as they are using the standard thread for backing plates, then u get the option to change to smaller and/or better quality backing plates if the need arises. Another thing is ideally their starting speed should be low, 600rpm or lower, so that u dont risk paint burn right from the start.

Perhaps u can consider attending Osren's detailing workshop so that they can show u how to do machine polishing, then it will be a slightly easier learning curve when handling a machine on your own. Rotary is definitely a riskier option for the inexperienced, so best have pros guide u from the start.

Purely from claying perspective, I prefer Meguiars Last Touch, as it is geared towards a quick detailer hence abit more slick when claying. ONR as clay lube feels more like water, which is slighty less slick.

I also like Last Touch as quick detailer for windshields, as it helps reduce the chance of water spotting with regular use.

If to compare:

Meguiars Last Touch:
1) Clay lube (1:1 dilution ratio)
2) Quick detailer, final coat protection although very mild (no dilution)
3) Interior quick detailer / protectant (no dilution)

ONR:
1) Clay lube (1:64)
2) Quick detailer (1:16)
3) Rinseless wash (1:256)
4) Many other uses (https://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/how...r-detail-spray/)

Guess it depends on what u wanna use it for.

Well, Carpro PERL was designed as an interior/exterior plastics protectant in mind, so it is no surprise to carry UV protection of some form if true. However, Last Touch was not designed for that, only that ppl found other uses for it other than just clay lube and exterior final quick detailer, so I wouldnt be so sure if UV protection is in the mix.

Having said that, I guess any product that we can find more uses than what it was initially intended is always a bonus. Chemicals like Super Degreaser and APC have tons of uses, and even polishes can be used beyond the car (test spots required as always).

Based on the website, that bottle is ONR made into quick detailer. Any spray bottle would do, can buy from daiso if u want.

That tool u mentioned is a mini tool extension of rotary, mainly for polishing very small spaces and tight edges. I dont have experience with it, but see few detailers on youtube using it with quite good effect.

The work looks very good! Keep it up!

Yes, rotary can be rather heavy, and if u are not doing it every day, a sudden decision to use it will leave u aching at the end of the day. From my personal experience this is normal. My polishing work usually takes me 3-4 days, and end of first day is always the most tiring. One way to keep yourself from over-exerting is to take plenty rest in between, drink plenty of water, and if u have a bottle of 100Plus handy, that help to replenish your energy.

From technique standpoint it would be hard to know whether u were holding the machine right or not, but perhaps by attending a detailing course u can understand better the right ways of using the machine.

U can either get it from Magicboo or if u are in the viscinity of Jalan Pasar, then the electronics shops will carry electronics grade ones. There is also medical grade, but hard to find because usually sold B2B between pharmacutical companies and hospitals. Generally most pure IPAs are 99% and above rating. Anything below that usually means got dilution. Its not a bad thing because generally we dont use pure IPA on the car anyways, but instead dilute it for post-clay or post-polish protection application.

IPA usually can strip even cured wax and sealants, not just residue. It can also strip fresh coating if it was applied incorrectly.

Rightfully glass cleaners shouldnt cause streaking because many of them contain some bits of IPA also to evaporate residue. Thats why glass cleaners are sprayed on and wiped off with dry cloth, any residue evaporate leaving a clean and streak free shine. If in doubt, can try using Goodmaid glass cleaner that comes off AEON shelves, quite cheap and multipurpose.

As other bros suggested Osren and CSM. I would like to add SGCB based in Puchong.

Actually there is a reasonably big topic surrounding lights for detailing, but it depends if u are polishing or not. Apart from polishing specifically, for the rest of the activities these headlights should work just fine.

https://www.lazada.com.my/products/creeper-....25421.138196.0

For any detailer that want convenience of carrying stuff around while detailing lower areas of the car.

Any claybar and lube should work fine. There isnt a claybar or lube designed specifically for glass because its just another surface on your car from claying perspective.

From shopping standpoint u will find plenty of choices from Shopee and Lazada, alternatively can also contact Osren via FB and order from there.