Maybe he dont show his true finishing move? Its like martial arts abit, lol. 😂

I have seen other youtube detailers that use the same method of paint brush for dressing. While I believe it does leave a slightly thicker dressing than if using sponge or microfiber applicators, I do not expect that it would sling if done properly.

Hmm, firstly I am assuming that when u mention meta cleaners, u are referring to Soft99 Meta Clean.

Secondly, when u refer to Osren ones, I am assuming u are referring to Paint Restorer 51, Solid Clean 07, or Cleaner Wax 06.

In terms of label instructions, I believe the straight line motion is solely referring to when using it by hand. Perhaps Osren finds it to give much better results by doing straight line than circular motion when using it by hand. The only way to find out is to experiment.

Using machine with these liquids u mentioned is generally okay, as they are in the AIO category, so a polishing pad or finishing pad paired with these liquids on machine should be fine.

More impressively is your headlights have hardly any yellowing despite the age.

Perhaps u could consider the Samurai 2K spray coat for longer protection durability. Alternatively the Meguiars headlight restoration kit that also comes with a spray clearcoat of sorts.

Sorry, I have not tried the Meguiars one before, just saw it in youtube and some ads. It does look like a typical clearcoat spray, so its durability shouldnt be that far off from the Samurai one.

To add on to bro Quartzphene comments, avoid using powder detergents and instead use liquid detergents when washing microfiber towels. Also, if u plan to wash your towel using washing machine, consider using a fine mesh laundry bag (available at daiso) to reduce the chances of towel catching lint during wash.

When wringing towel to remove excess water during drying car phase, try to avoid excessively twisting the towel as this will overly stretch the towel fibers and eventually make it run out of shape.

As with other guys' comments, degreaser if u have it. If u dont have or want to buy a bottle of degreaser just for this, bring the cap to your kitchen sink and scrub it with concentrated dish soap. It may not be as efficient, but almost equally effective.


Your pic is too small, cant see much. However, based on your description, u need to look closer onto the black mark and see if the mark is actually due to the wood left a residue mark on the chrome or the chrome itself chipped/tore off from your panel. If its residue left on, u could try using some polish to gently polish it off, if the chrome tore off then not much u can do except to touchup paint or rechrome the panel.

I have seen chrome paint in those model hobby stores like Tamiya before. However, in order to get the chrome level to be mirror-like with those is unfortunately pretty much impossible or at least extremely difficult. I had seen one video a long time ago of a guy using such paint to get it to very close to mirror-like finish, but even so there were alot of steps and the outcome is nowhere near doing a chrome plating.

U could try using silver instead of actual chrome to touchup, as your trim area matte coloured.

Just bear in mind silver has numerous variations.

If not investing on any machines, then u need APC, some brushes, give it a good scrub, then microfiber towel to try absorb and dry off the seat. It may require 1-2 days of drying under the sun also.

For the smell, febreeze may have some effect, else u could also try vinegar in spray bottle. Again, it will require some sun to dry it off, but from the theory the acid in vinegar should kill the odour causing bacterias.

If u wanna invest in a machine, then a steam cleaner should be able to both clean and remove the smell.

Alternatively if totally lazy to DIY, then send to car wash shop and get them to do interior cleaning plus nano mist.

Sincere apologies, think u may have misunderstood my reply regarding drying under the sun. I did not mean u had to take your seats out of your car to do the cleaning I mentioned. Instead, once u have done your cleaning of the seats, they may still be damp, so park your car under the hot sun and head to dry them out that way. No seat removal required.

APC is All purpose cleaner, a common cleaning solution that is usually concentrated and require some dilution, good for general cleaning most interior surfaces. There are few different brands in the market for this. Alternatively, a cheap and easily accessible alternative would be either dish soap or laundry detergent. However do use with care as they are not designed specifically for car use.

Hmm, I'm not sure if your Opti-Seal should be placed on top of the wax. Wax is known to be the weaker product compared to sealant, so it is always recommended to have the stronger protectant as the base and the weaker one as the top.

However, considering that u have those dark stains, then some form of AIO may need to come into play.

Perhaps u could consider hand polish your car to remove all those dark stains, then followed up with Opti-Seal, then once cured apply a wax.

Correct, AIO stands for all in one.

Below are some AIO:
http://osren.com/product/professional-seri...int-restorer-51
http://osren.com/product/professional-seri.../solid-clean-07
https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-paint-rec...cream-d151.html

Below are some cleaner wax:
http://osren.com/product/professional-seri.../cleaner-wax-06
https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-d16601-polishing-wax.html

Both does pretty much the same thing, which is provide some polish and some wax. As I know, AIO provides abit more polish, cleaner wax provides abit less.

However, these options are only great assuming again that u are not going to apply Opti-Seal on top of them. Since these products do leave a bit of wax (quite weak wax), your Opti-Seal would not last being on top of them.

Perhaps I can suggest u try instead:

http://osren.com/product/professional-seri.../perfect-cut-20
https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-ultimate-polish.html

These are pure polish products, does not leave any waxes. Once polish done, then clean surface with IPA one round (to remove polishing oils) then u can apply your Opti-Seal. This will ensure best bonding between paint surface and sealant.

I think it depends on how u define worth. As bro FirstOne mentioned, many coating services are cheaper now, so there is more value for money.

However, as bro DaBai89 mentioned, there is an increased risk of water spotting, so u will need to clean your car even more regularly to prevent or at least reduce the chances of that happening.

Personally I have my car which is not coated, and my wife's car was previously coated. As I am not as diligent in cleaning cars as I used to be, my wife's car coating eventually had alot of water spots, made even more obvious because the car is black in colour. My car on the other hand doesnt catch much water spotting. Eventually I had to polish off all the coating on my wife's car (which was a pain in the ass), and now after 4-6 months of just using spray sealant, no water spots came back, and surprisingly the car doesnt get as dirty.

Also, having the coating doesnt prevent another 2 main issues, which is paint chips due to fast driving, and also swirls. Yes, fine swirls and scratches can also happen, but instead of it happening on your paint clearcoat, it happens on your coating instead.

After having tried coating before a few years ago, I am now on the camp of no coating required. I feel that it is generally better to get a very good quality polish, then just apply sealant or wax once in a while.

Anyways, this is just my 2 sen. If u are keen to explore the world of sealants and waxes instead, there is plenty to be found these days. Easy to DIY apply for anyone.

I think that's the point of the coating issue, that despite the marketing gimmick that has been played by most of the shop detailers, in reality coating requires more care, not less care. If a car owner is really rajin enough to regularly wash and seal/wax their car, then coating becomes less beneficial as a result. Good washing techniques, regular seal/wax regimes can prevent the swirls, bird poop etching and other forms of droppings from damaging the paintwork.

Besides, from my personal experience in detailing, the scare of too much polishing will strip your entire clearcoat eventually is pretty much a scare tactic more than anything else. While it is entirely possible for such things to happen, if u only polish once per 1 or more years, chances are u probably would have sold that car before the clearcoat wears out.

Anyways, its just my 2 sen.

I think that ultimately depends on your detailing practices. If u are generally a disciplined detailer and regularly wash and wax your car, then no harm polished all of it off and maintain it yourself. However, if u are the type that doesnt prioritize cleaning your car, then best to close one eye and leave the coating on.

Just bear in mind, polishing may degrade or completely strip the coating, but it depends on how deeply your detailer works your car. Perhaps before u proceed to take this step, try products like Carpro Eraser or Carpro Reset to clean up your coating, just to make sure that it isnt stubborn dirt stuck on your coating.

[quote=munsies,Jun 17 2019, 05:34 PM]
is Sensha coating the best?
it claims to be the number 1 coat in malaysia?
https://www.facebook.com/sensha.malaysia/

[/quote]

Everyone claims their coating is the best in the market. It is the most common marketing tactic. As Sensha is based near my place, I can only say that their business is good, so guess their product and service quality is decent also. Perhaps u can pay a visit to their shop and see what they have to offer and compare it with other detailers.

[quote=celciuz,Jun 17 2019, 10:26 PM]
So I have quite a bit of watermark on my windscreen... and I did a quick wash on the area I wanted to test out... and kinda removed the watermark but caught some minor scratches ... not sure it was there before cause the watermarks can't see them.

Using Osren glass polish and the rayon cube (was trying on the small triangle glass).

Should I actually clay the glass, then probably carpro spotless then only glass polish?

[/quote]

Clay yes, but spotless handle with great care because it is acid, and wrong use means acid etches into your glass. Furthermore, spotless may help with watermarks but does nothing to scratches.

In terms of the scratches, where do they appear? Where the wiper wipes or non-wiper areas? Glass is a very hard surface, so it is not as prone to scratch as compared to paint, but scratches that do appear are also very hard to deal with.

Again, I cannot emphasize enough to handle with alot of care in using spotless or any other forms of acid. Etching your glass and burning your hands (not to mention acid reaction to waterspots creates noxious and dangerous fumes) are things not to be messed with.


[quote=presario316,Jun 17 2019, 11:23 PM]
[quote=blurcase,Jun 7 2019, 04:24 PM]
Correct, AIO stands for all in one.
Bro blurcase,

Say after I completed the procedure with AIO or cleaner wax, how do you clean the surface so that a sealant can be laid, and then maybe some wax if I want extra protection or shine?

[/quote]

One way is as bro V429 mentioned, stripping your wax with dish soap washing. Another method that is faster is to use diluted IPA (isopropyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol), spray and buff off.

From your description of the scratches, it could have actually come from the polishing. However, I find that to be odd as glass polish shouldnt scratch glass. Did u apply alot of pressure in effort to remove the waterspots when hand polishing?

Hmm, sorry to say that I wouldnt be able to tell u how strong Carpro Spotless is. If there is rough gauge of comparison, I would say it is definitely stronger than vinegar, though it may not be as strong as Osren StainX. When previously I tried remove waterspots from my wife's car windows, I followed the recommendation of using a damp cloth with a few drops of Osren StainX, and that may have diluted it just enough to removing the waterspots without harming the window. However, for my procedure I was very fast in using a 2nd damp cloth to wipe off acid residue then dry cloth to remove all the dampness, so I worked small sections at a time.

I recall bro slk recommends air blower before for drying car faster.

Personally I had tried with a friend's one, but not a fan of it cuz of the noise and also requires me pulling out a long extension cord for it. However, during my shop days we had an air compressor, so using air gun from compressor can really blow dry most of the crevices, especially useful for rims, grills, side mirrors.

To reduce time for drying car crevices, I prefer the natural method of "water pulling water". Basically the technique is to use natural flowing water instead of water spray during the final rinse. Water when contacts other water bubbles join together and get heavier, eventually pulling themselves off the surface. The chain reaction of the water pulling leaves less water on surface and crevices, making it easier to dry. Most days I can dry an entire car with one medium sized cloth without required to wring the towel.

Hope this helps.