Try Karcher brand, I have used them before and its quite good. Some hardware stores could be offering them on sale.

depends on your wallet size.

from order of cheapest to most expensive, there is wax, sealant, coating, clear bra.

I used meguiars waffle weave drying cloth before, 1 cloth lasted 3-4 years, everytime after use wash with washing machine. at the end of its life it still absorbs water well, no streaks, minimal need to squeeze the water out halfway. I usually use 1 cloth to wipe my entire civic, start from all body panels and windshield, then wipe door jambs and engine and boot area, then rims. After finish rims dirty liao so send to washing machine.

However, I have moved to other cloths because meguiars cloth abit expensive.

Thanks for the idea, though I generally avoid investing in machines for washing purposes because I lazy to pull extension cord everytime I wash car (same goes for pressure washer). Good idea anyways, never thought of that.


What I do is usually throw the dirty drying cloths into those washing bags and wash with washing machine using abit more than normal clothes washing liquid to clean the cloth. It seems to do the job of cleaning away any grease or dirt stuck to the drying cloth and comes out clean almost like new.

What does the white dots feel like? Dent in or bulge out?

When did u first notice it and do u remember where u park when it happened?

Quoting from detailing gurus, claying technically removes everything (except glass coating and clear bra films). So u can safely change to wax after claying.

I believe Osren also has a glass polish worth trying, I have seen it used before and it does the work pretty well using DA. Personally I am currently using Pinnacle GlassWork Water Spot Remover and it does a good job too, only problem is it tends to create alot of residue that flies around the rest of the car and need to be dusted off.

I chatted with Kevin Brown from Buffdaddy.com on glass polishing, he mentioned that any polishing cream that contains cerium oxide as its main ingredient would be ideal for glass polishing.

What rotary are u using?

Hmm, I have 2 suggestions:
1) Use smaller pad
2) Angle the polisher rather than flat on windscreen, and lift the polisher a little bit so that it doesnt catch and slip around.

Erm, how bad is the scratch? is there a dent in along the scratch line also? Can try using a compound rather than polish, and toothpaste is not recommended.

Otherwise, if the paint on that scratchline already come off, then u either need to respray, or apply touchup paint. U can get touchup paint from AEON stores if your car paint colour is manufacturer made, not custom colour.

If that is the case, then it might still be possible to remove, but not using toothpaste la. Try getting a compound, like Meguiars Ultimate Compound or something, and a clean micro fiber towel. Squirt a small dot (size of peanut) onto one of the towel corners, then work on the scratch and see if it goes away.

But bear in mind, if gloss layer has come off and only left colour layer, then the shadow of the scratch might still be visible after compound.

This post has been edited by blurcase: Feb 27 2017, 01:45 PM

Lol, nothing to be afraid. U probably cant do any worse damage by compounding. Worth trying for DIY.

Maybe u can try go any detailing shop near your house or workplace and see if they can try to remove the scratch for u.

U can try pay a visit to Osren office, I believe they do provide detailing service on top of marketing and distributing their products.

Osren Office in Google Maps

Can describe further the difficulty u having? Is the pad constantly catching and slipping? Or just having trouble achieving the final result? Or your compound/polish seem to dry out quicker than expected?

From my experience using Meguiars M105 and M205 on rotary, due to the speed of cut they can dry rather quick, thus having a spray bottle with just plain water to wet the polish agent helps to re-lubricate the surface and continue polishing.

This post has been edited by blurcase: Feb 28 2017, 11:50 AM

For slipping issues, I believe it should be mostly too much pressure on the pad when polishing. The machine itself usually has enough weight to pressure down on horizontal panels, so no additional pressure down from the hands are necessary.

For vertical surfaces, due to its nature, the pressure on the body panel is very much dependent on your own hands force.

So what I can recommend is to reduce downwards pressure on horizontal surfaces, inwards pressure on vertical surfaces. With practice, you will notice that you only need to guide the machine, not add pressure to it. For foam pads, its especially easy to see if you put too much pressure by looking at how much your pad as compressed.

Hope this helps, just sharing personal experience.

Agreed, I use Meguiars M105 and it dries quickly, quicker than Osren in many cases especially with rotary. Even Meguiars M100 has much more lubrication than M105. However, from following Kevin Brown method, drying up does not necessarily mean end of life of the liquid. One squirt of water and the polishing can continue.

On that note about DK, how does it fare? Do u achieve results quicker? More efficient? Cost effective?

The pads with hole in the middle are more commonly suited for large throw DA polishers, especially the likes of Rupes 15 or 21 DA polishers. The reason for the hole is to reduce heat buildup on the pad, especially since DA polishers generally buildup pad heat in the center, whereas rotary builds heat more on the sides. Thinner pads are also created mainly to maximize DA performance and bring its cutting capabilities closer to rotary standards without the risk of paint burns.

For rotary, it is still recommended to use the full thick pads. However, from a technique perspective, it is a generally steeper learning curve.

This post has been edited by blurcase: Mar 1 2017, 02:08 AM

I think that is still reasonable price compared to Meguiars. A bottle of 16oz M100/M101 is about RM200 each, and suppliers in Malaysia dont even sell small bottles of M105/M205, minimum 1gal. With last year GST price increase, it is even more expensive since then.

U are correct about the oilbase. Meguiars products are using oilbase as lubricant for their all polishing compounds. Thats why u see some youtube videos some pro meguiars detailers will use diluted alcohol for final wipedown after polishing before applying protection.

Hmm, havent kept in touch with Osren for some time. Didnt know their rotary pads now have holes as well.

No worries bro. Practice makes perfect. If u are living in KL/Selangor area and willing, end of this month I can come over to share with u some rotary knowledge that I have. Just PM me if u interested.

Oops, sorry, actually it wasnt 16oz or 32oz, cuz in Malaysia got special packing 28oz for M100/M101, black colour bottle. The light brown/cream colour bottles that we see online are 32oz.

To add to windskill comments, the other risk when using rotary is clipping/chipping edges of body paint with rotary on too high speed. My staff kena before ripping out 20sen coin size of paint from edge of bumper, lucky it was my car and he was still learning. After that mistake he more to DA and dont dare use rotary liao, haha...

Contact Rupes Malaysia on their FB page, also lnown as Autocolortech Marketing, or visit their showroom. I bought my Rupes LHR21Mk2 for RM2500 roughly.

The repack is actually by Meguairs themselves, just that its for EU market if not mistaken.