True true, but the principles techniques still provide a reasonable foundation.

Oh u mean the put a pencil length of polish, then rotary sapu in from right to left and start polishing?

What’s the new way?

Autogeek was my first go-to channel in youtube when I first started learning polishing. The channel is very old, back then Mike Phillips was teaching. He is quite a legend by many means, and his videos still give very good foundations to learning about paint correction.

For interior detailing, Ammo NYC taught me most of what I needed to know.

Sooo, I actually am still in the midst of restoring my wife's car, and it has plentiful of watermarks on both windscreens, side mirrors, and body paint. I initially started by compounding using my Rupes 21Mk2, Microfiber cutting pad and Meguiars M105 (the most hardcore I can get), but it couldnt do enough to really remove all the watermarks in an efficient manner. Then I recall a video I saw that used acid-based wheel cleaner as an initial step to remove watermarks. So I contacted Osren and got myself a bottle of Stain-X to try (its quite strong acid). In short, removal is much faster, and any watermarks not yet etched into the paint were pretty much removed. Even for those that were etched in, the acid managed to reduce them to the point it is almost not visible unless use torchlight to review the area.

However, before u run out to do the same, just want to say first that I am not advocating use of acid as a solution to this problem by any safe means. It is very much use-at-your-own-risk. I definitely took the risk myself, and was prepared to respray the entire car and change all the side windows and side mirrors if anything bad happened. If u arent prepared for such risk, then polish is still the safer bet. This acid is quite strong, I wore disposable gloves that I bought from daiso, and even then and with the acid in a damp microfiber towel, the occasional times it touches the gloves it turns the gloves colour dark yellow (a sign of acid contact and reaction). Proceed with extreme caution at all times.

Ahh, good to know. Always good to learn new ways of doing things to make life easier in detailing. Thanks very much.

As I just shared above, I did use acid on glass. However, I must share first that I put abit of Stain-X on a fairly damp microfiber towel, rubbed gently on the glass until it became smooth, then immediately followed up with another damp cloth to clean residue and dry cloth for final clean. Even went to the risk point of doing the side mirrors that way, and it managed to clean all. The only place I did not use the acid is on the front windscreen, as the worry that it will impact wiper performance. For front windscreen I polished with Carpro Ceriglass to the best of my ability.

Yeah, that was what I heard years ago from another detailer shop also. Personally while I have no evidence of it, but not willing to risk that when the rest came out okay and I saved enough time and money already from the other risks I took. Lol.

Not sure about scotchgard suitability and purchase locations, but for most interior cleaning (including headliner), a good all purpose cleaner, some soft brushes for agitation and microfiber towels to absorb residue are all u need.

In my dream world, I would prefer compressed air to blow out water instead of blower, lol. Unfortunately cant find an air compressor that is small, powerful yet quiet and affordable, so there goes my dream.

Hey that’s quite basic and old technique, I use it all the time with all the cars I wash. Water pulling water, works even with cars that dont have any protection. Saves a ton of drying effort cuz less water stayed on panels, so most good drying cloth can dry whole car in 1 wipe without wringing.

Hmm, not sure if u need to wash again after claying, as personally I dont do it and go straight to polish. Perhaps u can consider washing after polish instead to remove the polish oils before waxing.

Doing all by hand is not a problem, but u must manage your own expectations. Hand polishing results cant reach machine polishing standards. There will be some defects that u will find very difficult to remove by hand. As long as u happy with the before and after results, then thats good enough.

Actually there has been many debates about the logic and practicality of 2 bucket wash methods. The original assumption had always been that doing the 2 bucket with grit guards will minimize the chance of dirt from a different section being dragged on other sections and scratching. However, there is always the probability of some dirt being already trapped on existing wash mitt and did not come off in both buckets and thus continue its ride in the mitt and marring the paint.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuxWadJygkU

I find for those looking for alternative methods, this is one definitely worth to consider.

Could it be just specific to the bumper section? I had a similar experience where my wife Altis paint between the metal body panels and bumper panels seem to be abit different and the bumper part is softer, hence harder to finish than the other body panels.

My go to is Zippo lighter fluid. Great for cleaning most light glue marks and whatnots, doesnt require washing after as it evaporates like alcohol.

I have 2-3 more suggestions before going into claying:

1) Zippo lighter fluid / IPA, both solvent thats great when cleaning off glue stains, might help with ur grass
2) WD40, this I have not tried before but bro slk have recommended this a few times on other occassions
3) Sticky tape, stick on and pull off, see if it comes off.

If all these dont work and claying is your only option left, then I suggest doing it with care. Every piece that gets pulled out with claybar will drag onto other parts of the car u clay and potentially scratch. Not to mention also with such chunky pieces loading into your claybar, it may render your claybar eventually useless in the future. I would suggest tearing a small piece out to try it first instead of committing an entire piece in.

Zippo lighter fluid quite easy to find, many hardware stores and even stationary stores would carry the small cans at minimum.

Agreed. I believe one of the commonly used fuel for commercial cleaning (even some cheap car washes do it on cars) is using diesel. Alternatively try degreasers, they should lean abit on the alkaline side.

Maybe u can take a good picture to show, then we know what u could be up against.

Hmm, I am still thinking that some form of chemicals should be able to remove it just fine, just find it odd that your bug and tar removal didnt work earlier. Even claying should work, so again odd that it didnt in your case. If whatever in ur current arsenal didnt work, u may need to get new products.

Here is a random tip to try. If u have white vinegar, spray it on a tissue and place the tissue on the affected spot for 3-5 mins. Make sure the tissue sticks on your paint. After giving it abit of time to work, then wipe off and see if it works. Vinegar is acid, but one of the mildest form and should not harm your paint in any way.

I used to hand polish when I was a newbie about 20 years ago. Now dont have stamina to do it anymore, and besides after moving to machine polishing and see much more work done in the same amount of time, never looked back.

I use Rupes Bigfoot LHR21Mk2, solid workhorse and long term investment. I also have Rupes iBrid Nano for small sections.

Before u think me as rich kid, just know I am no longer a kid, and these are machines I invested in for long term use. However, I always believe detailing is a passion and long term hobby, and each person should have their own budget for this hobby. It is kinda like photography enthusiasts.

That depends, as I know there are 2 types. 1 type is purely double-sided tape only holding the visor, 2nd type has a small metal bracket and plastic stud to give firmer grip.

For 2nd type, u need to push the stud out first. To do so if I remember correctly, u need to wind down your window, then push the stud from inside out.

To loosen the existing double sided tape glue, u can either use sticker removers like Goo Gone, maybe some oily stuff like WD40, or rubbing alcohol. Personally I like Goo Gone, as I can pull the entire double-sided tape out with minimal effort once the chemical has chance to absorb in. Takes between 30-60mins for it to be taken out quite easily.

If u are planning to use oil based products like Goo Gone or WD40, remember to rinse off the oils thoroughly, preferably with soap also.

Hahaha, no la, everyone also work and earn money lor. I had less commitments few years ago, so could afford the Rupes. If u ask me to buy one now, different story liao.

I have it, but personally didnt find it strong enough. But then again, I tried it on very severely baked on waterspots. If your water spots are light and recent, u might have a better chance.

Some tips for u:

1) Claying is more about frequency of movement instead of pressure on claybar. A good claybar will pickup embedded contaminants very quickly, so folding and reopening a fresh surface is important for it to be effective claying. Usually my method is to flatten the clay to at least cover 80% of my hand, then clay the same section twice (use one side, then repeat with opposite side).

2) The extreme test for claying effectiveness is to wear a thin plastic bag over your hand and glide it over the clayed and cleaned surface. If it is smooth also then contaminants 99% remove, if not then repeat.

3) The best way to observe polish differences is to do 50/50 shots with some torchlight. Even your smartphone light can help if required. Mask half and polish one side, once done remove masking tape, shine light between 2 side and see differences.

4) Every wax may have different ways to apply. Some apply one section then immediately buff off, some apply 1 panel then buff off, some apply whole car then buff off. However, I believe most waxes would recommend working in cool conditions. If the front half of your car is shaded and back half exposed, then wax and buff off front half first, then drive your car and reverse position, then continue with 2nd half.

5) If ever u have wax dried too quickly before buffing, or your wax gives an uneven effect (usually because of wax application too thick), easiest way is to strip the wax with IPA.

Hope this helps for your next session.

Unfortunately there isnt any easy way other than polishing. U can try hand polishing with a polish and pad, but best manage your own expectations on the results.

I used to stay in landed with my parents, so had the luxury of car park with electricity via extension cords. However now I live in condo with my wife, so dont have such luxury. If I require polishing, then I go to my parents place.

Honestly speaking, battery operated machines doesnt give u the length of time required to polish an entire car no matter how good it is. Even when u see furniture ppl come fix up furniture at your place, everywhere they go they will try to borrow a power socket to charge their batteries while they have other spare batteries to work. If u really talk about mobile detailing, then a generator set is the more practical solution, and that is definitely not a DIY home detailer's ideal situation.

So what would be my best recommendation? I have 2:

1) Send your car to a good detailer u trust and have seen their work, go for a good 2-3 step compound polish. After that try your best to wash yourself and wax regularly to keep the paint always looking good.
2) If u do get a battery operated device, then complete 1 panel a day. Clay, compound, polish, wax 1 panel a day. Your batteries only last that long, so u should at least target to complete 1 panel before the batteries finish so that u dont have to worry about it being naked before moving to next panel. Finish 1 panel, go home and charge the batteries and repeat next day.

Hope this helps.