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 Car Care & Detailing [V5], Caring for your car apprearance

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blurcase
post Feb 24 2019, 12:55 AM

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QUOTE(SwarmTroll @ Feb 23 2019, 09:35 PM)
Hey do you guys think that painting (thinking of getting those touch up paints) over a hairline crack is alright? (the hairline crack is caused by another car bumping into my front bumper)
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I had used it numerous times on different cars. One that I remember the most is my friend's car got a long scratch line on the front bonnet (suspect it got keyed). I used the touchup paint to fill it. It has been over 5 years since, and the line has blended in and hardly visible at distant glance.

QUOTE(V429 @ Feb 23 2019, 11:09 PM)
Noted. I also hope maybe BSD can withstand Malaysia's hot weather and random rain, but I doubt it. Haha. Still I would like to try BSD just to see how it is like.
It should work. Just make sure to clean the crack before applying the paint and you might want to use something finer than the supplied brush (maybe a toothpick) to fill in paint into the crack.
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Well, any non-permanent protection systems are designed to be temporary and sacrificial layers. With our climate, its more of good discipline to regularly wash and clean the car that is important. smile.gif
blurcase
post Feb 24 2019, 09:49 AM

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QUOTE(Eternalgl0ry @ Feb 24 2019, 03:22 AM)
My friends car got the same issue of yellowing though they say their films doesnt get yellowish. But i doubt that unless wash car every time after rain but the protection is good but 15k full wrap is so painful

I am thinking to go ceramic pro
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Mmm, I believe yellowing happens due to sun factor instead of rain factor.

In any case I always say detailing is all up to ur budget. Just remember even the best protection is not invincible.
blurcase
post Feb 24 2019, 10:12 PM

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QUOTE(SwarmTroll @ Feb 24 2019, 05:07 PM)
These were the damages I was talking about:
user posted image
user posted image

First one is the hairline crack, and the second one is the rusted part. Touch up paint should be no issues for this? I went ahead and got the ezy touch up combo (removal, base coat, clear coat, rubbing).
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As per V429 mention. Just to add, considering your car is white, there is a possibility the touchup paint will look whiter than your car panel when applied, even after cured. Unfortunately the reality of many white cars (especially local and Japanese cars AFAIK), the white does turn abit yellowish with sun and rain here. So when u apply your touchup, it may look abit whiter than your current paint.

However, for the purpose of budget DIY, if u dont mind the potential tone difference, then feel free to apply it. Think of it as a temporary solution until u either sell your car for a new car or decide to do a complete respray.
blurcase
post Feb 25 2019, 10:52 AM

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QUOTE(genkis3 @ Feb 25 2019, 12:46 AM)
Hi guys,

Im using Bosch GEX125-1AE with it's polising sponge. Now looking for more aggresive cutting pad. I've tried putting Meguiar's pad on GEX125 but seems this entry level DA doesn't have power to spin the pad smoothly. 

Now thinking to get 'Bosch Lambswool Polishing Bonnet'

here's some info of this pad:
-For use with polish or for working in surface
-Suitable for polishing slightly dirty surfaces and scratches
-Suitable for surface finishing after polishing and for removing dried-on polish residues
-For dry application on curved and even surfaces
-Creates the desired high-gloss finish

So does it mean this wool pad is for finishing step? Anyone have experience with it? how does it compare with Bosch Sponge pad?
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As far as I know, lambswool is categorized under the compounding stage pad, not polishing/finishing pad. Although I have no experience with this pad, I do not think the info provided in the box is correct per se. However, since u are looking for an aggressive cutting pad, then this should work for u.

Having said that, I do agree with slk, even though your pad and compound can be much more aggressive, but your DA's lack of orbit will take a long time and effort to do some decent cutting. Perhaps, if u are not willing to invest in more expensive DAs, then u could still try to go on budget and get a vertical rotary. Of course, u must remember that rotary is a fairly different beast compared to DA, so u must handle with care at all times until u get the hang of using it.

QUOTE(Eternalgl0ry @ Feb 25 2019, 02:04 AM)
Would you guys go for ppf with hydrophobic coated or just ceramic coating

lets say if budget is not a issue.
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Hmm, I think it depends on the purpose of the car that u have. If its a daily driver, I would probably have a less interest in overspending for protection (even though budget is not an issue). The main reason is because while u may protect your car from the environment, but things like accidents, scrapes, door dents can still happen due to daily driving.

If your car is a weekend car (or u are a big boss, u have a driver and your car is always parked in the shade), then having the best of the best protection like ppf and coating combo would make sense.

Just my 2 sen.
blurcase
post Feb 25 2019, 03:16 PM

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QUOTE(Kaffatsum @ Feb 25 2019, 02:20 PM)
Testing out some pads and product combinations. I realized some combinations cause some swirling on the paint when trying to paint correct. Any possible explainations for this?

I was thinking maybe the paint is too soft, need to follow up with a jeweling polish or caused by dirty pads/panel.
While there is a likelihood of the latter being an option, new pads  and brushed used pads and an already decontaminated surface should prevent this. Is it possible that it is caused due to my work environment (I work in shaded outdoor area)?
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When compounding, generally it is expected that the process will remove the original defects and leave machine-made finer swirls on the paint, hence the requirement to follow up of polishing/finishing step to make it swirl-free.

Clearcoat hardness or type could be a factor if polishing/finishing step still leaves random spiderwebs or swirls even. However, if based on Kevin Brown method that I learned from videos and reading, pads cleanliness could play a role also. If its new pads, then priming the pads would be important.

From personal experience, changing other variables like machine speed and movement technique and quantity of passing overlaps also can help to reduce the possibility of swirls during polishing.

Hope this helps.

QUOTE(WiLeKiyO @ Feb 25 2019, 03:01 PM)
any recommended product for car seat(fabric) cleaner?
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My typical go-to would be All Purpose Cleaner. More important would be to have plenty of microfiber towels handy, and a good soft to medium bristle brush to scrub the fabric. Try check out more interior detailing videos on youtube to learn more.
blurcase
post Feb 25 2019, 10:26 PM

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QUOTE(faiz5200 @ Feb 25 2019, 04:18 PM)
Help, my microfiber towel does not absorb water anymore when wiping to dry my car. I think this happen after I decide to wash all the towel.

Before this the towel can absorb almost 95% water in a single wipe, but now only 20% or maybe less. Need to wipe multiple times to fully absorb all the water.

Already search online, some said need to soak in warm water for 20-30minutes. Already tried that but still the same. What to do now  confused.gif
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Mmm, do u sun your towels after wash? AFAIK, microfiber towels are not recommended to sun after machine wash, but instead air dry cool. The rationale is excessive heat will damage the microfibers.

Also, do u use powder or liquid detergent when washing your towels? Powder detergent is not recommended because not all the powder will dissolve when used, thus some of it will lodge into your towel.

Finally, if u mixed wash all your towels, perhaps lint has cross linked with your towel microfibers? U can try getting a lint roller and remove the lint from your towel and see if that helps.

QUOTE(WiLeKiyO @ Feb 25 2019, 08:34 PM)
user posted image

Any idea how to fix scratches on rim?
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I recall some tyre and rim shops can repair these types of scuff marks. Try enquire with rim shops.
blurcase
post Feb 26 2019, 05:44 PM

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QUOTE(faiz5200 @ Feb 26 2019, 09:35 AM)
Funny thing is this happen right after I tried my mom new dryer machine. I put all towel inside and let it dry. Before this every time I dry my car, I will put it under direct sun to let it dry. No problem till now.

Actually I did used powder detergent when washing the towels. I guess that is the reason why?
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Hmm, then the problem is still 2 fold. Firstly, dryers generally would be more concentrated heat than the sun. That alone may have burnt off the microfibers in your towel.

Also, powder detergent may have not dissolved properly when washing.

https://www.microfiberwholesale.com/info/kn...ing-microfiber/
https://www.autogeek.net/mi101.html

Unfortunately since u have put it in the dryer, there isnt much u can do about it already. Maybe the towel can be repurposed to do other things like wipe table or as a rag for general use, but for drying car or car detailing purposes, I believe it is no longer efficient. Perhaps best for u to purchase a new towel. Future towels should only be washed using liquid detergent and air dry to maximize and maintain its quality.
blurcase
post Mar 1 2019, 04:07 PM

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QUOTE(V429 @ Mar 1 2019, 12:40 PM)
Guys, would like to seek your opinion. Let say I am working with a white car, I want to clean the paint of embedded dirt then apply pure wax, let's say Fusso coat.

Now for me, to clean the paint I usually use AiO wax. But AiO wax also give the car a layer of wax right? To apply fusso coat on top of AiO wax would reduce the durability of fusso coat right?

Then to ensure fusso coat is applied on clean surface, does it mean it is ideal to strip away the AiO wax then only apply Fusso coat? Seems like duplicate effort is it not?

Or maybe other products can be used to clean the paint of embedded dirt without giving the car a layer of wax? Light polish liquid maybe?
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If claying is not sufficient, no harm just give a quick run of polish. Even if by hand, u dont have to go in aggressively with polish because your plan is purely paint cleansing and not defect removal. However, for best surface contact, it is still best to IPA clean after polishing because polish itself will leave polishing oils residue that is invisible to the naked eye.

However, even if u are using AIO wax as paint cleaner, I believe it is a simple task of using IPA to clean off the AIO wax very quickly without the need to re-wash the entire car.

Just remember, true naked paint is like a very clean plate, it squeaks when u rub your fingers across it. If it is smooth and gliding, there is still something on there.
blurcase
post Mar 2 2019, 01:39 AM

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So, I had been neglecting in my daily driver's protection needs for some time. After washing it has become apparent that there is very little beading, and the only saving grace is my previous polish was quite decent so the car is still generally quite hydrophilic.

Few nights ago I went to SS15 area for dinner, and considering the lack of convenient parking, just parked at the first parking I could get, which happened to be under some trees. As I got out of the car, I could hear alot of birds calling, and my wife mentioned that the tree is a popular spot for birds and we risk having a bird poop bomb on my car when we return. As I was lazy to continue rounding to find another parking and we were running abit late for our dinner, I decided to risk it and left my car there.

3 hours later I went to get my car and true enough, bird poop bombed, covering front bonnet, roof and some on the doors. I decided to drive back home to Wangsa Maju and proceeded to use ONR to clean up the mess as now I was living in my condo. After cleaning whatever I could, I decided that it would be best to go for a complete wash the following day as there were bits and pieces of poop in some of the crevices of the car.

Next day I waited for evening, and did a complete thorough wash as following my usual methods. I went abit heavier on the soap so as to get the panels cleaned real good. However to my disappointment, after a complete wash and dry, 3 bird poop spots on my front bonnet didnt go away completely and its traces could be seen in certain reflection of light on the bonnet panel. As it was already late in the evening and I was tired, I decided to leave next steps to tomorrow.

The following day (today), I decided to try claying the front bonnet to see if I could remove the 3 leftover spots. However, after a few rounds of claying, the spots remained. After some thoughts I came to this conclusion theory that the bird poop may have etched in to my bonnet because that night I chose to drive home first then only remove the poop. During the drive, the engine heats up and naturally the bonnet will get warm, thus the heat caused the poop to etch into my paint. All the other poop stains (especially many of those on the car roof) were completely removed with no issues.

So lesson to be learned for my fellow detailers: if u see bird poop on your car, try to clean it ASAP before driving (unless its raining). Prolonged heat has a tendency to make poop (and water marks) etch into your car paint or windshield and will leave traces that are harder to remove.

I will probably be doing a complete polish of my car soon, so should get it off by then.

Attached Image

Picture marks the traces of bird poop, picture taken after wash before clay.
blurcase
post Mar 3 2019, 12:32 AM

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QUOTE(Par@dox @ Mar 2 2019, 10:06 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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Spot on regarding coating pros and cons. I believe the main issue with the car detailing industry and market is that it lives on marketing hype. Ceramic coating is one of the more recent products from the history in car care and protection hype.

I gave the same answer to a friend that asked my opinion regarding coating his BMW. I told him his clearcoat is already hard, ceramic coating doesnt add as much value as he would hope.

Perhaps when u run this coating a year or so from now, u can consider investing in some paint correction tools and dive into paint correction world. smile.gif
blurcase
post Mar 3 2019, 02:12 PM

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QUOTE(SwarmTroll @ Mar 3 2019, 02:03 PM)
Anyone here does the DIY toothpaste method to buff out light scratches? Is it recommended?
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Tried, not recommended. The less consistent nature of abrasives in toothpaste creates unpredictable results. U could end up remove original scratch but add more scratch from toothpaste.

Better to buy a bottle of car polish from any brand and use. Keep in cool and dry place when not in use.
blurcase
post Mar 4 2019, 06:58 PM

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QUOTE(clement5949 @ Mar 4 2019, 05:42 PM)
hi guys,would need to get some advice.

Recently i saw a lot car coating advertise on fb and their price is like 399 or 699

I am wondering are they really reliable? For example, Sensha car coat from kepong quote me rm699 for 3yrs warranty. Is this worth the investment?

i do always believe "u pay for what u get", actually my budget is set around rm1k.

As far as i know, car coating has the same function as car waxing but car coating will last longer. Recently, i just waxed my whole car with Soft99 fusso coat and Osren Synergized.  Please correct me if i am wrong.

If i can afford the time to do waxing myself, does doing car coat still worth it?
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Based on your statement, since u can afford the time to wax your own car, then my personal opinion is save your RM1k to buy some other car detailing products to enhance your existing arsenal. As the guys was just mentioning in this thread about 2-3 pages ago, coating has its pros and cons. I have done coating myself and now am having the nightmare of trying to remove all the waterspots that built up over 1 year since I applied it, lol.
blurcase
post Mar 4 2019, 08:52 PM

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QUOTE(clement5949 @ Mar 4 2019, 07:49 PM)
Which means u apply your coat on top of those watersports?
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No, I got the car brand new, did a complete compound/polish session to almost flawless (car sat at home for 1 month from the day I collected), then applied 2 layer ceramic coating on it. As this car was parked outside regularly, the waterspots formed on the coating and unfortunately cling on coating very quickly. By the 2nd week after coating was applied, washing couldnt remove the waterspots anymore, and it just grew from there, lol.
blurcase
post Mar 4 2019, 10:19 PM

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QUOTE(Par@dox @ Mar 4 2019, 09:54 PM)
Ouch.

I wonder why ceramic coatings are prone to watermarks, and whether it is more so compared to wax / sealant.

I get it that generally, water beading is not preferred, especially in our weather, since the water beads are basically little magnifying lenses on our car paint that focuses the sunlight, and thus causes etching.

In that case, ceramic coating should fare better than waxes / sealants because it tends to sheet more than it beads.

Unless what is happening here is that water spots etches easier into the ceramic coating, and we can't polish it without removing the coating.
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My theory on why the watermarks happen (at least in my case), is due to surface tension and lubricity. In applying and buffing off coating, the surface hardens and becomes very rigid. Coated surfaces are not slick and glidey if compared to waxed surfaces, so when water latches on and dries, it is quicker to etch. I have read that in some instances of Soft99 Fusso Coat, the same holds true that the coated surface is not slick and glidey, and also tend to be a waterspots magnet over time. However, beading still happens quite well because the coated surface continues to be tense.

In the case of slick and glidey surfaces like those with applied wax and sealant, water has more trouble latching on, and with the weaker durability from these protection systems, when u wash away waterspots u are basically stripping a thin layer of protection with it.

Just a random theory, please correct me if I'm wrong.
blurcase
post Mar 5 2019, 10:06 AM

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QUOTE(Par@dox @ Mar 5 2019, 12:02 AM)
By the way, does anyone have any experience with CarPro Boa Towels? Bought the 500gsm one off Lazada. While it is soft and plush, it does lint quite a bit. Also, I don't see the CarPro logo on it, and I am beginning to question whether it's authentic.
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Can share the link of where u bought from?

Maybe try google some pics and compare. Dont think they tend to label towels because labels can potentially scratch your car when wiping.

If after checking and found that it is indeed genuine, then the other option is to use a lint roller to remove lint from your towel.

QUOTE(celciuz @ Mar 5 2019, 07:58 AM)
These pesky bird poo... is there something I can put inside my car to spray so I can remove them easier? :S my house doesn't have car porch so.. always dirty sad.gif and damn birds love to poo on it.
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Common recommendation is ONR or some quick detailer in a small spray bottle. However from a hygiene standpoint they are not antibacterial. I prefer to use antibacterial wetwipes (like from dettol), after all it is bird poop. Downside of antibacterial wetwipes is they contain abit of alcohol, which means they could potentially strip your wax/sealant also. Also, after using wetwipes, I highly recommend rinsing off the soapy residue with water, else from my experience the soapy residue will trap dirt and stain the clearcoat, requiring some wax cleaner or polish.

blurcase
post Mar 6 2019, 07:22 PM

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QUOTE(Waliuuu @ Mar 6 2019, 09:44 AM)
Thanks for the input! Found this video in YOutube.. But still don't dare to do myself lol. Maybe send to the auto detailing centre and stand beside and monitor  sweat.gif

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If u are willing to DIY, there is a "dry clean" method u can employ. Simply get a good degreaser in spray bottle, a brush and plenty of cloths. Spray, agitate, wipe clean. If worry of residue, then keep the cloths damp to wipe off residue. No need to hose down the entire engine bay, no need to cover electronics (as long as u are not spraying on them). Only clean what u can see and convenient to reach. Do this regularly and u probably wont need to go to wash shop for engine wash for a very long time.

In fact, in my regular car washing cycle, I always open the front bonnet at the end of my drying process to give a simple wipe clean of all visible and convenient to reach parts. Done that for my last 3 cars, and never needed to do any special cleaning.
blurcase
post Mar 7 2019, 10:39 AM

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QUOTE(slk @ Mar 7 2019, 07:24 AM)
when someone get something which "can last longer", one tend to slack/take is easy to maintain later on.

With better formulated spray wax that is available today... i think you can forgo a normal wax/sealant. Spray Wax is soo easy to apply (WOWO) and takes only 5 mins to apply the whole car. this means you can spray wax after each wash.

If one is lazy, there is spray on rinse off sealant (Gyeon Wet Coat, P&S Bead Maker) smile.gif

or spray wax as you dry rclxm9.gif
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I am lazy. innocent.gif
blurcase
post Mar 7 2019, 10:49 PM

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QUOTE(slk @ Mar 7 2019, 10:48 AM)
not lazy but many things to do  smile.gif

BTW bead maker is crazy slick!

user posted image
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Naise! U got both via online? I am contemplating on BSD, but wouldnt mind know how beadmaker fares. Was watching from Forensics Detailing Channel review and shootout that it may lose to BSD abit. Your take?
blurcase
post Mar 8 2019, 03:06 PM

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QUOTE(slk @ Mar 8 2019, 09:01 AM)
my BSD is the old formula which is more "pekat". Bought it from the previous importer before the current one increased the price to RM150

Bead Maker is very easy to apply and the slickness is immediate. Noticed that BM sheets more than beading (good as it prevents water spots). I'm getting a gallon of it to share with a friend  rclxm9.gif
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Oh there is a formula change in BSD from when u bought before?

Sheeting is definitely good element because that is the key component in easier drying of cars after washing also. I would take sheeting over beading any day, lol. Lazy man’s thoughts. biggrin.gif

QUOTE(ITforce @ Mar 8 2019, 11:16 AM)
Spray wax is it equivalent to liquid/water wax?
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Erm no. Liquid wax is usually the liquid version of paste wax, thickness is like concentrated dish soap. Commonly sold in a squirt bottle and applied using applicator pad. Its durability is usually close to paste wax.

Spray wax is the watery version of wax that is applied using spray bottle and microfiber cloth, usually spray on wipe off method. Its durability is usually lower than liquid/paste wax.

Water wax as I know depends on who defines it. One version of water wax is water-activated solution that is sprayed on a wet car after wash and wiped dry and solution leaves a layer of protection. The other version is the wash and wax shampoo combos, which Is what is commonly used in quick wash shops.

Please correct me if I’m wrong.

blurcase
post Mar 9 2019, 12:30 AM

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QUOTE(V429 @ Mar 8 2019, 10:53 PM)
Just to share, watched Ammo NYC's below youtube video. Very informative smile.gif Learnt some things I never realised before :

-Car's paint need to be able to flex, to be able to expand and contract according to temperature.
-ABOVE surface contaminants can become BELOW surface contaminants due to car paint expansion & contraction cycle.
-Being a newbie who's never tried machine polishing before, I never ever consider polishing residue being a factor to take into consideration. An eye opener for me.

AMMO NYC youtube video 1
AMMO NYC youtube video 2
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If u have the time, budget and interest to go further into the compounding and polishing part of the car detailing world, many of these videos will be very helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUdnj4CVFmQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvy5YztoGBM

This video got me started in the Kevin Brown method of polishing. It is quite a good method, following it gives consistent results, just the entire process is slow and steady. smile.gif

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