The average price is mentioned by douglas_tong. However, considering that u already have more than 1 part of your car that is starting to face potential clearcoat failure, then I would suggest considering respraying your clearcoat for the entire car. Some may argue not to fix what's not broken, but my opinion is that the entire car's paint age is about the same (unless some parts got resprayed before). While failure usually take place at areas that take the most direct impact of the sun (front bonnet, roof, boot cover for regular sedan cars), however over time the upper parts of the pillars, doors would also not be spared.

If u do have the budget, then I suggest for entire car. Do some price shopping, as clearcoat also come in some varieties, such as German, Japanese or local clearcoat ranges. Their main difference is mostly on the hardness of the clearcoat. At least once the clearcoat has been resprayed for the entire car, u technically start from day 1 care again, and with diligence ur new clearcoat will last much longer.

Just my 2 sen.

Yes, why not? I recall a member here did 1 panel per day, and many times only on weekends. Just remember to end your day process with a protection (sealant/wax) so that it is protected while u are working on other parts of the car.

Before u begin, u should also analyze your car's each panel size and plan abit which part may overlap. Also, it may be wise to find some form of shade even though u wanna wake up as early as possible to start polishing. It is always recommended to polish in a cooler environment, so your available timeframe will be short once the sun starts to hit the paint. U will need to feel the car body regularly to see if it is still cool enough to continue polishing, or it is become very warm or too hot.

Give it a try, dont be overambitious to polish too much per session.

Mmm, if u get a fluffier and thicker microfiber towel that should reduce the need to go in one by one to dry. That's what I usually do. Besides, leaving a small water residue doesnt do much damage, unless u are the very anal type and want it to be completely dry dry.

Yes u can, just do the plastic bag test to see if u need to clay before re-waxing. Else, worst case just re-wax anyways.

Just sharing, for anyone looking for a range of consumer products for starting or adding on to your own detailing arsenal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Jay8KUMYb4

Not all products shown in the video is sold here, but many are, especially in ACE Hardware.

Sounds about right. For claying, some use car shampoo, some use quick detailer, some use ONR. If u plan to use shampoo, please remember not to use the leftover from the car wash if it is dirty already.

Cleaner wax is as it sounds, a combination of small bits of abrasives (polish) and also wax. U will be doing a very very small bit of polishing to bring back ur car shine while waxing process.

Quick wax is also as it sounds, easy spray on and buff off.

Ppl tend to use cleaner wax when the car has not been waxed for some time, and got time on their hands, so do abit more to give the car shine. Quick wax is for when u dont have the time and want to lay on a mild protection after washing as a quick fix.

They are similar, but uses depend on situation. Hope this helps.

Well, based on my experience, claybar quality plays one important factor in the claying process, the lubricant used (whether car shampoo or quick detailers) plays the part of whether compatible with the claybar u use. I have experienced before some claybars dont work well with shampoo as the shampoo broke down the claybar over time, but so far all the claybars I used are definitely compatible with quick detailers. The other difference would be cost, as car shampoo u already have because u need it to wash your car anyway, but quick detailer is an additional product and not everyone is willing to pay extra. So it depends entirely up to your budget.

Also, from experience, the claybar only plays one important factor, the other important factor is the frequency that u fold and reopen a new claybar surface. For example, if u try to clay the entire bonnet with 1 claybar surface, u will find pretty early on that at the end of that process u effectively only clayed maybe 1/4 to 1/8 of the surface (the cleanest would be at the area where u started), and the rest are pretty much the same. This is because once the claybar picks up contaminants quickly, that claybar surface no longer has the claying power and needs to be folded in and reopen a new surface. The key for absolute contamination removal and clayed clean surface is frequent folding and reopening of new clean claybar surface.

Hope this helps. Feel free to PM me if u need more detailed clarification as sometimes its not as easy to explain the procedure purely with words.

The traditional way would be to use IPA (isopropyl alcohol, or rubbing alcohol). Dab some onto your cotton bud and clean those areas.

I am also a fan of Meguiars. Yes the price is premium, but there are much more support in terms of usage than other brands out there, so getting reviews, how-tos and more knowledge on any Meguiars product is much easier.

The top line scratch looked like clearcoat was removed, maybe compound can remove the rest of the scratches, but where paint is no more present, nothing compound/polish can do.

Usually ppl only use cleaner wax when car has not been waxed for some time (between weeks to months). Weekly seem like overkill. And it goes without saying that u only use cleaner wax after drying the car, not while the car is wet.

They may sand and putty some parts of the paint to level it, but they dont remove the whole paint to repaint.

Wax yes, I've seen numerous youtubers apply wax to their rims, maybe just dont use the same applicator pad on rims and body paint.

U probably need to strip your sealant using IPA for that section first, then hand polish it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLvMeOT0Iko
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQSAhc-2h-E

Some videos to guide u along the way.

On a separate note, anyone wanna get their lifetime supplies of affordable detailing chems, here's a company to consider.

https://www.facebook.com/kleensonmarketing/

Try Osren.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eL_UXp2ZXls

However, I cannot guarantee that the addition of multi cleaner is safe for your Fusso.

U can look for some carnauba wax to topcoat your fusso as the sacrificial layer. Also, u could consider a spray wax.

One of the early signs usually is water beading. The less water beads, the less sealant is left. However, there is also the water sheeting factor. If water no longer sheets off cleanly from your car, then the sealant is definitely gone.

If u find the surface to be rough, u can consider claying before reapplying your sealant. Else u can just apply it anyway.

My friend tried it before, works quite well, water beading on the windshields were quite decent. However, I wouldnt know if the wiper judders. Only thing is its best to polish the windows one round before application.

Please understand compound and wax are 2 different things:

1) Compound is an aggressive liquid/paste "sandpaper" that is meant to remove tough and deep defects on your car (medium scratches, embedded water spots, etc)

2) Polish is a milder liquid/paste "sandpaper" that is meant to remove finer defects on your car (swirls, fine scratches, etc)

3) Wax is a liquid/spray/paste that is meant to ADD protection layer to your car.

So based on the definitions that I had just written, my personal suggestion for off the shelf compound would be Meguiars Ultimate Compound. For car waxes, there are many in the market, u could try the likes of Meguiars Ultimate Wax, Osren wax, or even try Soft99 Fusso Coat.

At their USJ office or online? Lazada?

Lol, same question then, where is the warehouse?

As I know headlamp tinting can be removed by car accessories shop. Try visiting them instead.

As far as I know, not heard of fake Meguiars products. Cheaper prices could be because they bring in bulk, or they thin out their profit margin for higher sales.

It could be possible as Zer0Pulse said, improper washing method or something stuck on wash mitt and rubbed over during washing.

The other possibility is when u got ur new car, it was waxed using a wax with fillers to mask the scratches. Now that the wax with fillers have gone, the scratches start to appear.

I have tried the Soft99 Glass Compound Z long time ago, didnt work. I tried Carpro Spotless and CeriGlass recently, Spotless didnt do much (maybe technique not right), CeriGlass worked okay (still left abit of the harder and etched water marks, but mostly gone). However, I think hand polishing is quite tough to remove it all, because it takes much more effort, best still done with polishing machine.

Sorry but as I know IPA wont do anything to remove watermarks.

3 options in my personal opinion, PermaGlass (PG), Osren or Meguiars. Depends on your budget.

Alternatively, u could also try clay cloth.

If u need advice on how to work with Meguiars M105, feel free to PM me.

Actually from experience, 3" pads can work the sides/top/bottom of front and rear windscreen quite well. Only very close to a standing wiper based will be a challenge, so that part usually go in by hand.

Honestly it is hard to tell if your watermarks are deep or light from photos. The only way to know is once u have used the glass polish 1-2 rounds on the affected area, u may see most of it gone but at certain angles can still see very small donts of watermarks left. The one glance from 5ft distance should probably look clear.

I think Soft99 Glass Compound Z is quite an old product and no longer in the market. I was also sold by its advertising videos back then, but in reality it doesnt work anywhere near as good. For a more current tech product, perhaps u could try Carpro Ceriglass instead.

No, please do not use this glass-specific products on side mirror and headlamps. Side mirror is especially a big no-no, as the so-called glass material is very different from your windows and from my reading, polishing will most likely permanently scratch it. For headlamps, I would suggest for u to assess the headlamp condition first, as most newer car headlamps have been sprayed with some special clearcoat. Unless your headlamp clearcoat is peeling, yellowing, or even hazy now, then only u should consider wet-sanding with very fine grit sandpaper, followed by normal car compound and polish.

For the stone chip, from the picture it looks quite serious, so I suggest bringing it to a pro to assess. If the chip is serious enough that it starts to crack more when driving (and wind pushing into the crack and opening it more), then it definitely should be repaired first prior to doing other things with your windshield.

I have not tried windshield repairs DIY, but from videos it seems to look simple enough. Only way to know is to buy a kit and try it yourself.

During my car wash days, we also encounter many BMW and Mercs that have the same issue. I think the typical soaps or APC dont have the breaking down or cleaning power as compared to acidic/alkaline based cleaners.

Just a word of caution when using Cartec Wheel Cleaner, it is alkaline in PH level, so its spray vapours and mist can sting and should avoid breathing it in at all costs. When spraying u should try to set your sprayer head to less mist and more squirt. If the sprayer head is set tightly to high mist setting, ur chance of getting the mist blowing into the wind and hitting your eyes and accidentally breathing in is quite high. So loosen the sprayer head setting to single line squirt, then tighten it bit by bit to a slightly wider squirt but minimal mist.

Also, while the Cartec Wheel Cleaner is dilutable, if possible your spray bottle head should also use one that is highly chemical resistant. So far as I experienced, the grey head type of sprayer head isnt as chemical resistant to alkaline and its internal parts eventually fail, but the black head sprayer is much more resistant. The head is sold by SGCB distributor in Puchong.

https://www.facebook.com/sgcbautocaremalays...?type=3&theater

Just my 2 sen experience, hope it helps.