Well, it depends on the depth of cleaning that u want. If u are cleaning mostly surface layer of the cushion, then the budget methods I mentioned would work just fine. Karcher steam cleaner like the SC2 is also good if u want to mop the kitchen floor if it is oily after cooking. It is also great for cleaning greasy things or stubborn toilet stains without using harsh chemicals.

However, if u want to do deep cleaning and sanitizing, then a steam extraction cleaner like what slk mentioned is the better choice.

However, looking at the market offerings, I would agree with both slk and douglas_tong, u'd probably get move value by just paying someone to do the cleaning instead of investing a machine that u would hardly use beyond cleaning your car cushion once every year or few years.

So overall, my suggestion for interior cleaning would either be doing it the budget way or sending it out for shop to do.

Try reading a few posts earlier on cushion cleaning. With regards to dust in the cushion, I have one basic technique that I use and generally effective without need for high end equipment.

Firstly, wear a face mask, any face mask also can, but preferably the n95 compliant type to reduce the amount of dust going into your lungs. Then, have a vacuum cleaner turned on at the side pointing in the air near the cushion. Then, with your free hand, smack as hard as u can on the cushion to push the dust out on to the air and use the vacuum to suck the dust. Once most of the dust have been removed, then use vacuum cleaner to vacuum the surface of the cushions to remove the remaining dust that settled back on the cushion.

This is similar to how ppl hang house carpets and beat them with rackets or bats, but with addition of vacuum cleaner to clean off the dust.

Sorry, the orbit difference isnt related to coverage of working space as u mentioned, but pretty much how douglas_tong explained. The orbit difference affects the amount of cutting power.

Just to add to douglas_tong's comment:

1) DAP8 has interchangeable backing plate, which means u can switch between 3" and 5" backing plates and pads. 3" is good for working in smaller surfaces, especially typical car boot area.
2) While DAP8 may finish easier than DAP15, however from cutting power standpoint DAP8 is less than DAP15.

May I suggest u take into consideration the pad and cream strategy u wanna deploy as part of this purchase decision. That would make it easier for u to decide.

I have seen the brand around before, did some background check and I suspect they are a local company using Italian core tech but local assembly. During my travel in Italy, I dont recall seeing this brand being sold there. Unfortunately, I wont be able to tell u if the product good or not because I have not tried this product or even this brand myself.

I think for its price, there is no harm trying. Considering Knight Auto is a physical shop also, perhaps u can pay them a visit and ask more details such as warranty and parts replacement before committing to the purchase. Alternatively, u can also visit shops like CT hardware for recommendations. As I know, CT hardware is quite reputable, and they also have good in-house warranty support for numerous brands.

Actually I agree with douglas_tong, so long as u are satisfied with your detailing results, that is what is important.

While often we watch videos like Larry AMMONYC and drool about the tools he has and results he gets, we must remember also that often our cars are daily drivers, not showroom cars. Thus, our detailing results are only as good between the day we finish detailing and the day we start driving. Defects eventually comes back for our daily drivers whether we like it or not, so we just do what we can to minimize causing the defects ourselves (regular wash with good techniques and tools, regular protection application). If anyone is OCD and want to chase for perfection in their detailing, its entirely up to them. Our forum is here to cater for all forms of detailers, from the laziest (like me) to the most OCD. Feel free to share your thoughts, no harm in teaching and also learning.

Just to add to what the rest is saying here. As considering u are living in condo environment with limited access to private car care space, may I suggest considering using products like Optimum No Rinse (ONR)? This can help u clean car faster with less water required. U will just need to have more cloths for this wash process.

Unfortunately for white cars as others have mentioned, it is easiest to see dirt, and worse still u will get those dirt streaks at some edges of the car where rainwater commonly runs off. However, all is not lost as u can use products like cleaner waxes to remove those streaks quickly. U may need to apply wax/sealant more regularly due to open exposure even when parking at home. However, as someone who used to have similar parking issues in the past, I can also suggest that instead of needing to apply wax to the entire car every time, is to instead wax sections that regularly exposed instead. As u mentioned your front and rear gets regular exposure, so u wax front and rear more often. An example of this process would be, every month u may wax ur entire car 1 time, but front and rear u wax 2 times (once per 2 weeks).

Apart from spray wax as douglas_tong mentioned, u can also consider using a spray sealant such as Carpro Reload.

Whether ceramic coating is worth it is rather subjective question. It can be worth for ppl who generally lazy to wash car, but for those who dont mind detailing regularly, ceramic coating may only be a nice to have.

Wow, u bad bad man. I see video terpancing liao. Can please share with me where u got it? Thanks.

Just to be fair, while polishing thins the clearcoat, this is not something to be overly feared. It takes alot of polishing to cut clearcoat to the point it disappears from your car paintwork. While I cannot give u an estimate on how many times u can polish before your clearcoat wears out, but perhaps this video from AMMONYC will clarify regarding clearcoat removal as part of the polishing process:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHEpqYGuUHI

AIO polish basically has some polish abrasives and mild wax, commonly used to give a quick polish+wax for new cars before passing to customer.

Cleaner wax has less polish abrasives than AIO, and more wax, commonly used to remove milder dirt that washing alone cannot remove. It is often used by what/light colour car owners.

While I say that both AIO and cleaner wax both contains polish abrasives, they are far far less than any pure polish cream, and even far far far far lesser than a compound cream. The frequent application of AIO or cleaner wax will only remove an extremely negligible amount amount of your clearcoat if it is even possible for these products to remove clearcoat to begin with. So I would say not to worry about killing clearcoat with AIO or cleaner wax.

Well, for most brands cleaner waxes are clearly labeled, such as Meguiars/Mothers/3M/Zymol Cleaner Wax. Only AIO tends to have some custom name, like Osren Paint Restorer 51, or Meguiars Paint Reconditioning Cream. I think if u go to major websites like Autogeek, they would be a great reference.

A long time ago, they did have retail distribution, however I believe the retail biz somehow didnt bring in enough revenue compared to b2b, so eventually their products went off the shelves.

Biz operators can order larger quantities when they have volume, especially the barrels of car washing soaps that they can stock up. Return business from b2b is also much more frequent compared to retail consumers.

Wah! Sendiri spray paint at home?

Can consider Claber or Karcher if u looking for branded with quality hose connectors. Else, can search for garden hose reel for cheaper alternatives.

Try check out Carpro Reload. This is a spray sealant though, not spray wax. Available from Cquartz Malaysia.

This post has been edited by blurcase: May 29 2018, 09:53 AM

https://www.autogeek.net/qude101.html
https://adamspolishes.com.au/blogs/news/pai...-sealant-vs-wax
https://www.lenosgarage.com/blogs/news/wax-...re-a-difference

For your reading pleasure.

Erm, I dont do anything to my tyre lug nuts other than a typical brushing when washing the wheels.

However, in theory it depends if your lug nuts are colour coated, chromed or bare metal. Colour coated can be polished using typical car polish, chromed can be polished using a chrome polish cream, bare metal probably use autosol or some metal polish.

Just my 2 sen.

Hmm, in the recent months of this thread, there has been many questions regarding white car maintenance. If u dont mind reading backwards in this thread, u will find alot of useful tips and tricks on this topic.

As per just repeating from previous discussions, white cars generally will require more frequent washing, and also using cleaner wax to clean off some of the more stubborn stains and maintain the whiteness. While spray wax is generally good for regular protection, it may not prevent the occasional dirty water streaks at the door handles and other areas. Having clay bar and tar remover handy also helps to remove some of the potential stubborn stains.

A good combo as per recommended in Autogeek would be to apply a sealant as the base protection layer, then apply your spray wax to give it the shine.

Just my 2 sen.

Perhaps if u could share the general location that is convenient to u, then some of the members here could probably share detailing shops that u could try out. My location is Wangsa Maju, so I only know the detailers around my area mostly.

With regards to initial detailing steps, think the common notions apply. Regular wash with good washing techniques (assuming u DIY wash yourself), periodic application of some form of protection. Have some good microfiber cloths handy also, and maybe a small bottle of quick detailer to remove bird poop quickly instead of letting it dry on the paint.

For sealant, I could recommend an easy one called Carpro Reload. Do google up reviews and search some of their youtube videos on how it works, how to apply and pros and cons. Another common recommendation for relatively long lasting protection outside of nano or glass coating types is Soft99's Fusso wax.

Just dropped by Carpro office earlier, they now got bring in Carpro Reload 100ml size, RM38 is the price they told me. Worth for anyone that want to test their product without buying a big bottle.

Honestly, my method is called no eye see. If rain, the heavier the better, then rain help wash my car. Hehehe....

My principle stands, accept things we cant control. We live in tropical climate, so we accept the sun and rain. When car dirty enough then only wash. When weather permits we wash. Dont wash too much because we have a life beyond our cars. Dont neglect our cars also just because it rains all the time. Balance is the key because its our daily driver. We use car so that we easier cari makan, so we jaga the tools that help us cari makan.

If wash cannot clean we clay. If clay cannot remove we polish. If polish until paint wear off we respray. Wont die wan.

Only showroom cars need to be clean and shiny all the time.

Just my 2 philosophical sen due to nice rainy weather.

This post has been edited by blurcase: May 31 2018, 05:30 PM

Hmm, if u're a high-rise dweller, u can still consider using ONR for DIY rinseless washing. ONR is quite practical because u technically only need 1-2 buckets of water and a few good microfiber towels (and maybe a wash mitt) and u are pretty much good to go. Try checking out youtube videos on Optimum No-Rinse Wash and Shine. If u are interested to get, u can contact Waregem in this forum. He also got his own thread selling detailing stuff.

Erm, think the properties of coating isnt mainly for shine, but more for protection of the clearcoat from the weather and environment elements.

Generally, coating is also commonly known as glass or nano or ceramic coating, all pretty much similar technologies with different names. Coating is broadly defined as a semi-permanent protection that bonds with your clearcoat and protects over an extended period of time and has durability much longer than wax or sealant if maintained properly. In layman view, it is a liquid applied onto your car paint and hardens into a strong invisible coat of protection. Warranty is usually offered with a periodic maintenance package, so u have to occasionally bring back to them for cleansing and coating topup where necessary.

So far I have not met or heard of any car dealers that do coating in house, so it is definite that they will bring it to 3rd party to deal with. Perhaps u should check with your SA to see what sort of maintenance is required for the warranty coverage to be valid if u wanna commit to this addon service.

Erm, not sure if Meguiars Last Touch is the cheapest, but its RM172 roughly per gallon (3.78 litres). Used without dilution it works as quick detailer, used 1:1 dilution it works as clay lube.

Alternatively, u can also consider ONR as it can be used as quick detailer with 1:16 dilution ratio.

https://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/how...r-detail-spray/

Hmm, I applied Camui coating on my wife's car last year, and her car still beads beautifully after over a year. Only issue is watermarks, which is annoying, lol.

However, it is true that there is a 6-month interval maintenance that needs to be done, especially for coatings that have a base coat and top coat. The top coat usually needs to be reapplied after 6 months.