My supplier from Osren used to say Mr Heng dont like to talk price, because then cannot showcase their products. Hehe

Hmm, the main question would be whether the scratches are on the film itself or underneath the film (meaning on the paint). As we are generally aware, whether coating or film, it is best to get the polishing to be as perfect as possible before application, else it will be a pain to remove the protection just to repolish.

If the scratch is on the film, then I personally think its okay because the film is doing its job of protecting the paint from scratches.

Try this place:

https://www.facebook.com/GlamourSurface/

I did steam cleaning on interiors before during my biz days. Bought the low end Karcher steam cleaner to do the work, works quite good especially for fabric interiors. For leather I prefer APC and a good soft bristle brush.

For exterior I have not tried before, but have seen videos from FB of some local mobile car wash service providers that use this as their selling point. Whether good or not, guess not too sure myself.

Perhaps the best suggestion I can give is to go back to the shop that did your coating and see what they can do first. Usually they will have their methods of removing watermarks safely from their coated cars.

Well, to be honest its not that I dont want to suggest DIY methods, but generally I believe detailing shops that offer coating will have solutions or maintenance packages as part of their offer, especially if u went to those reputable ones.

Before I provide this suggestion, I must say first that I have not tried the products I'm about to mention before. I only know of this method from reading in other forums as well as watching youtube. So u should do your own research and not take my suggestion bulat-bulat also.

I have read/seen somewhere that u can use Carpro Spotless to carefully remove watermarks without damaging the coating. However, this comment was based on removing watermarks from a car coated with Cquartz coating products. Also, as part of the sacrificial layer to the Cquartz coating, they apply Carpro Reload sealant on top of it. On top of that, they also recommend using Carpro Reset for the regular car wash regime to maintain the Cquartz coating.

If u are interested in getting some of the products that I have mentioned, this is the local distributor (recommended to call as there are some Carpro products they carry but dont put on the website):

http://cquartz.com.my/

Again, I wish to say what I have suggested I myself have not tried, I only read/saw it from somewhere else. So my suggestion if u are still keen on DIY is to do more research into coating cleaning and maintenance products and see what makes sense for u. There will always be an unknown risk of some of these products not compatible with your coating, just so u are aware.

Oh? Lol, will definitely find u for yumcha one of these days then, always willing to learn more.

No worries, just sharing what I know.

Few that I found:

https://ezbuy.my/product/51000178024302.htm...20000000.22.0.0

http://auto143.com/single_products.php?id=291

https://www.youbeli.com/extension-shaft-pie...html?stores=656

For the SGCB one, they have an authorized distributor in Puchong, u can try to contact them on FB.

Mmm, stopped using rainX long time ago because it made a rainbow-like streaks on my old Nissan Sunny and also makes wiper judder when I eventually need to use wiper for heavy thunderstorms. Then again, that was nearly 20 years ago when I stopped, so not sure if the formula improved.

Nowadays I dont apply anything on my windshield, though I may consider again if the right product comes along.


Depends on the dirtiness level. Often steam cleaning alone can clean off most interior parts just fine, but for the more stubborn dirt, then I do scrub with APC first before steam cleaning it. This is especially true for fabric floor mats (some older cars tend to have that), driver seat, and also the base fabric carpet underneath the floor mats.

Mmm, to be honest I dont have a fixed schedule on polishing the windshield. While paint and clearcoat may have issues like scratches and swirls that make me wanna polish more regularly, for windshield so long as not alot of watermarks then I tend to leave it for a fairly long time. At best I will clay the windshield when claying the rest of the car, but thats about it.

Actually I saw an offer that is branded Osren when I was googling, but it was sold from non-Osren site, so didnt add that into the list because not sure if Osren officially sold it or someone stole their name to print on the label.

Sounds very similar if not the same to the theories I have about it also, though I didnt know how to word it earlier, hehe. Generally I find slickness also applies to bare windshield. I had some cars that I would mix abit of dish washing liquid to the windshield wiper spray, and while it does help to lube the windshield abit and clean it better during rain, it also can create too squeaky condition that wiper will start to judder. And this is just a mixture of maybe 5-10 drops of dish washing liquid to 2 liters of water.

Lol, as a detailer I see this type of car I very happy, cuz all the defects laid out for u to see, and with the right combo for polishing/finishing, the 50-50 shot would be absolutely beautiful.

You are correct regarding Meguiars G8224, it is more for normal glass cleaning and the properties for the product can probably remove oily residue if normal car wash cant also. However, when it comes to watermarks, there are 2 known methods:

1) Acid solution, however this is not recommended especially for the front windshield as some detailers have said that it can destroy the wiper to work effectively on the windshield after using acid to clean.

2) Polishing using any cream that contains cerium oxide, as this is the method commonly used by detailers to clear watermarks from windshield.

There is also another method, which is to use regular car polish or compound to clear watermarks, however the brand/type/effectiveness of the polish used is often debatable because not everyone gets the same results.

As slk shared in the video, method 2 is most effective to remove watermarks safely.

In terms of protection, again that is subject to debate. Products like Rain-X and windshield coatings can be effective to reduce water from resting on the windshield, however regular cleaning is still recommended.

If u are hardworking, after polishing off the watermarks, try to keep a typical glass cleaner (dont need to buy expensive like Meguiars, just buy those from AEON will be fine) and a microfiber towel handy. Even on days that u lazy to wash the car, u can always just spray the windshield with glass cleaner then wipe off and dry with towel. This regular maintenance can keep watermarks off for a very long time.

Just sharing a good video for everyone chasing for swirl free finish. This will give u an idea of the different aspects of polishing to adjust.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcTMDvKQJzA

Think the basic principle is to have a good wash regime and also a maintenance plan. If u dont have any car wash tools, then start with the following:

1) Car wash soap
2) 2 wash mitts (1 for paint, 1 for wheels, never mix up either one)
3) 3-4 microfiber drying towels (1 large for overall drying, 1 small for door jambs/boot/engine, 1 small for interior, optional 1 small for windows)
4) Wash bucket, best practice is 2 buckets, 1 filled with soap water, 1 filled with clean water

Do check out youtube for car washing methods and practices, there are plenty of videos on that.

Apart from washing, next is maintenance and protection. The best place to start would be to get a good tub of car wax, applicator pad and 1-2 microfiber buffing towels. Also check videos on how to apply wax in youtube.

Hope this helps.

On top of agree with douglas_tong on his comment, from my personal experience of a few paste and liquid waxes, I find that they have some paint cleaning properties (probably less than wax cleaner, but better than nothing) and also they can remove some stuff that usually done with claying. So technically liquid/paste waxes are doing abit of extra 2 functions with 1 product and process. Just my 2 sen.

Honestly, if your purpose of waxing is to prevent rust, then perhaps u have the incorrect perception towards wax. Wax is a non-permanent layer of protection that can wash away with rain and car washes over time. U wont be able to see when there is or is not any wax protection left.

If u already have paint chips that are rusting, then the first thing u need to do is to repaint, as repainting is a permanent layer of protection of the metal. The reason I say this is because they need to sandpaper off the rust from the metal before repainting, else if they just repaint on top of the rust it will still continue to grow. If u have paint chips that not yet start rusting, then perhaps u can still DIY touchup paint yourself (assuming your car colour is original from manufacturer).

Regarding your detailing shop's wax price, personally I think it might be abit more overpriced, unless they also clay your paint with it. Else the RM100 seem to be more trying to pancing u to join member to get discount.

1) Osren, their shop in kepong
2) SGCB Malaysia, shop in Puchong

Yes, sorry forgot to mention that. I went to their shop in Puchong last week and what u said is correct. So far dont think they have much online presence other than FB page. I never explored online purchase from them before also, as few occasions that I wanted to buy from them I just go direct to the shop and find Yong the biz owner.

They both have websites and FB pages, but unfortunately their sales is either contacting direct or go to the shop and deal. They dont have website to sell things online.

Worth checking out Osren for their DAP8 and DAP15 polishers (both are DA).

Erm, using acid or polishing?

Recently I went to SGCB and mentioned about issues with the grey spray head, he said from SGCB perspective the grey one is not so chemical resistant, and sold me a black spray head and ask me to try. He say SGCB China say its better than the grey one and is chemical resistant.

Major difference between both techniques. Acid based watermark removal can be quite risky and may kill your windshield outright. Polishing with the right cream (that contains cerium oxide) is a much safer way of watermark removal.

Ace hardware got variety from cheap to expensive ones, just not sure of chemical resistance. Most likely the cheap ones wont be chemical resistant.

Not so sure about what Hypercoat sells. Last time I approach them to buy professional line stuff they redirect me to their sub-distributors.

Agree, as far as I know of detailing products, its only the alkaline and acid based chemicals that need to worry about. Most common of the alkaline/acid cleaners are usually the strong degreasers, wheel cleaners, and to some extent the watermark removal chemicals.

In my arsenal of spray bottles, I have Carpro PERL, ONR, Meguiars Last Touch, 1:1 diluted IPA, all no issues. Only one that killed my sprayer head is the Cartec Wheel Cleaner which is alkaline based.