Hmm can't find any information related to nano wash 2.0 from Google or official website. Is this a normal car shampoo without wax? How's the dilution ratio?

Wow that's cool. Dilution ratio 1:400 seems to be similar to Meguiars Hyper Wash! If the price is cheaper than Hyper Wash (meguiars malaysia quoted me RM250+ per gallon), it will definitely be a good bargain!

I can't wait this to release officially and try it out!

I guess it's just a simple wash and apply AIO. Probably that's true.

Hmm based on the descriptions, the ion concept is to make the bonding between the paint and wax better.
Heard of this Taihokohzai wax before, but I have never used this before. Probably you can try it out and let us know .

If you don't want to take any risk, but you still prefer Japanese wax, you can go for soft99 fusso coat 12 months (年間防水).

This post has been edited by windskill: Sep 9 2016, 02:40 PM

All this while I use soft99 king of gloss (KOG) instead of fusso coat, as I wanted to try out something that's less mainstream haha.

Thin white layer? Did you buff off your wax with microfiber towel after you have applied the wax?

This post has been edited by windskill: Sep 13 2016, 05:05 PM

Nope I don't think fusso coat will leave a white layer thing on the surface. At least for KOG, it didn't give me such problem.
I use it on my red color car. Yeap the gloss it's absolutely stunning

Yes you can use other pad as long as it fits nicely

Okay..For KOG, the buff-off is easy. However, I noticed (sometimes) the application will cause some wax residue (wax lump together) to come out. Still trying to figure out what's going on.
In term of durability, the wax lasts about 1 month-ish.

I am currently testing on outdoor car (full 24 hours park outdoor) to see how long it can last.

You can look for steam cleaning service. Most likely can clean the dirty gunk.

Wool pad usually provides more cutting power compared to sponge pad.

To polish headlamp with minor oxidation, you can use a smaller size pad to polish the headlamp.
If the oxidation is severe, usually I would sand it before polish. But make sure you have the correct tool and technique to remove the sanding marks.

Wool pad you can get from Osren (they have LC purple foam wool pad and LC 8" wool pad if i am not mistaken). Or you can look for Antirain in FB. Meguiars Hypercoat might have too.
As I mentioned previously, the method is dependent on the initial oxidation condition (some headlamp even have old coat that peeled off). Sometimes, just purely polishing without sanding for too severe oxidized headlamp cannot produce astonishing result.

So far I haven't tried to polish windscreen by using machine. All the works are done by hands. I used Osren watermark remover to polish windscreen (just to remove watermark stains). I have tried out the same product and method to remove glass scratches, but it is not effective. I think it makes sense. Because glass is quite tough and by using hand, most likely I can't achieve the result. Plus, the product might not contain ingredient which is capable to abrade glass surface (eg: cerium oxide).

I used to use water bottle brush to clean car rims but recently just bought a decent brush to clean rims

What kind of compound did you use?
IMO, there are a few reasons. It can be either you did not completely remove the swirl marks during compounding. Or the buffing process caused swirl marks. Or the compound product did not break down completely.

Try to put some warm water (besides detergent) to clean your microfiber cloth which is used to buff-off wax. It works for me.

This post has been edited by windskill: Oct 8 2016, 07:26 PM

I don't recommend using the sponge that comes with the fusso coat. I feel it's quite rough and not safe to use on paint.
As others have mentioned, the oily stains could be due to thick wax. Or probably you didn't buff-off your wax properly at that spot after wax application?

Hmmm that's weird. I am using soft99 wax as well, but I don't have any oil stain issue as you mentioned. The only chance I get the oil stain is when I missed out the spot when buffing off the wax. If I left the stains there, the stains will disappear after a few days.

UPDATE

Just searched in Google and found this:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/arch...p/t-328751.html



Is it because you buff-off your wax just immediately after you have applied on the surface?

This post has been edited by windskill: Oct 10 2016, 01:20 PM

Hmm I have no idea about this one. Maybe the abrasive particle is too abrasive to the delicate clearcoat. I would suggest you not to take the risk, unless you want to experiment it on a scraped test panel

It could be the surfactant from the car shampoo make you think the car wax is no longer there. Nevertheless, car wax does diminish over the period due to environmental factor/temperature/moisture/etc.
To prolong your existing wax, you may use spray wax (eg: Meguiars Ultimate Quik Wax) as a "topper" to your existing wax.

There might be a chance that the high pressure of the water stream remove the wax. I might be wrong.
Not sure there's any experiment to verify on this myth? Haha

Go to Ace hardware and search for Goo Gone to remove adhesive residue (https://www.amazon.com/Goo-Gone-Original-Liquid-Adhesive/dp/B00006IBNJ)
Alternative is to use tar remover.

It's common issue faced by coated car. Suggested method is to have a top coat (which is a soft coat) to serve as "sacrificial layer". And it usually has strong water repellency/water sheeting ability.
May I know what kind of coating you are using right now? From what I know, some are really easy to get watermarks.

Touch-up paint.