Cutting ability depends not only on machine.
I used the same combination on both machine.

Hybrid blue foamed wool (lake country)
Nao compound 46
Hard paint.

Manage to remove moderate swirls with ease on both machines.
I'll say the rupes have the upper hand on comfort in terms of vibration and noise. Highest speed settings , noise are similar with dap having sharper gear tone.

Both are 15 orbit that I tested.
Best of all....zero holograms.

Wah. Where have you been Mia so long?

Yes in a glance it does seem like a weird combination. Somehow after trying many different cars, it seems to be working.

I have a video on it. Any idea how to upload? Not willing to upload to my YouTube channel.

Hint: https://www.instagram.com/p/BcCOtPEFDet/
Look at the pad Henry is using

indeed indeed. I have always preferred the purple foamed wool on a rotary for cutting. Thereafter, finish off with a dual action polisher.

However results are very different.

foamed wool on dual action polisher (on medium soft paint) cuts without leaving buffer trails or holograms. On hard paint, tutup mata one step really settle.
foamed wool on rotary + interface, cuts fast but leaves buffer trails that can be easily removed with dual action.

I think earlier this year I have also read in autogeek that they are some detailers who go with purple foamed wool on dual action polisher and gotten good results.
I tried both purple and blue, somehow the blue gives better correction than the purple one. It varies from one paint to another, but on most occasions, blue was the better choice

I'm still a sucker for 2 steps paint work correction. The finishing polishing step really gives more clarity on paint.

I remember there is a blog about detailing from a member here...but i dont know whats the name of the blog.. If anyone knows what I referred can share the link here? 

My first attempt to try glass/ceramic coating. Paint prep using Wash with all purpose cleaner, Clay using Meguiars White Clay using ONR diluted as Lube, Meguairs Ultimate Polish on Yellow Rupes Pads on LHR15 Mark 2 (lightswirl), Finish with OSREN P20 on White Rupes Pads  on LHR15 Mark 2. IPA 99.7% diluted 1:1 with RO water. Glass Coat -> 30 seconds light pressure MF buff -> 5minutes later medium Pressure  buff.

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Zoom in the lamp part

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Applicator suede MF used to apply the coating, right after coat already sunk in water with APC, yet it still hardened.

Am I right doing the application? Please Comments and Critics sifu.

30 second is too quick beforing buffing?
3 mins is fine. Or stay with recommended time by manufacturer.

Coating cystalises. The cloth we use for buffing or applicator sure harden. Mf cloth I downgrade to wheels

Unfortunately i live in a high rise that has no facilities for self wash. Btw, my quest has lead me to a detailer/product called G guard. They've recommended 2 packages. 1 is a quartz coating after detailing and polish for RM599 (comes with 12 mnths warranty) and another is a ceramic coating for RM988 with 3 yr warranty. Any ideas if this is any good?

Hey guys ,
anyone try Sierra Glow or Ecoat before ?
Can share the experience how good they are ?

Thanks in advance

Hi guys, i have a lunar silver car. Just got a ceramic coating done. Any advice on maintenance care? The people who applied the coating suggested using SuperGold Carnauba wax. He said stuff like Fusso99 are a bit harsh@ not natural.

My question is, is carnauba wax good for maintenance?Is it very difficult to apply by hand for a beginner?

why they still recommend you to do waxing?    when you do coating, by right we wont do waxing anymore. I was advised not to do any waxing, just regular car maintenance, if it rained wash your car within 5-7 days. fyi, watermarks will still occur, can't escape that, but some company, they provide free watermarks repair within the warranty period.

There are actual differences.

http://www.carwashmag.com/issues/feb-2011/...-management.cfm
https://www.theragcompany.com

Read through the article and check out the variety on the website, it will give u a general idea of the variations of microfiber towels.

Think for Meguiars, their towels are good but pricey. U can find cheaper towels that can do the same task just as well or even better.
Carnauba wax is a natural wax, not synthetic wax. Its durability is quite weak, but ppl swear by its superiority in glossing up your car. It should be quite easy to apply and buff off. If your coating supplier can recommend, possibly they may have tested it and the wax does not degrade or damage your coating unlike other waxes or sealants.

Perhaps I would suggest instead of getting a paste or liquid wax, is to instead get a spray carnauba wax instead. Just my 2 sen suggestion.

Maintenance wise, regular washing is highly recommended. As coating will repel dirt with relative ease, washing your car at home should not be difficult.
While I understand and appreciate both your comments, personally I am abit torn in that argument. It is true that the original selling point of coating was its superiority of protection performance and durability over sealants/waxes, hence the original perception that after coating dont need to DIY waxing further.

However, having coated 2 cars myself and maintaining it over time and seeing the watermarks grow to an unbearable point, i begin to understand that coating in and of itself isnt perfect product. As some folks that uses Cquartz coating and apply Carpro Reload on top of it, the purpose of the Carpro Reload is meant to be the sacrificial layer against the weather elements, while the coating itself will protect your clearcoat against harsher stuff. Similarly, the topcoat that some detailers offer that equivalent function of being the sacrificial layer. There are also coating suppliers that dont have a topcoat, hence u may need to find your own topcoat of sorts to protect the coating.

Just my 2 sen, feel free to debate.

need some advice, my car has ceramic coating but i can feel some bump when i run my finger over the surface.
can i use clay bar to remove those contamination on the car pain? just wonder will it remove my coat as well?

please advice, thanks

hi, im looking for new compound. been using osren nao 46, wit DAP15. using microfiber pad. i think it can remove 90% of scratch, swirl n watermark. any opinion on compound which give similar effect as osren, as it give good shine after applying it. tq

If it is just some light scratches, should i use polish or compound as well? There is some so called 'scratch remover & swirl remover' products by turtle wax, will it work on removing the scratches or it just cover the scratches like how some wax did?

Clay cloth is not abrasive as clay bar, as the contaminants quite dull. The dripping are in dark colour despite already wash clean during the first clay that day
My concern is whether this clay bar (No. 1) is okay to use while clay bar No. 2 is more suitable after read the manual guide after unboxed
I think the shampoo shouldn't be much impact as it's from the same manufacturer and recommended by the store too. Don't feel like buying additional kit as lube anymore since I have no more space to fill in my washing bucket and the pain that I have to travel just to perform detailing.

Polishing is the only way to truly remove swirls.
Alternatively, if it is not a severe defect, you can mask/cover it with wax. But it does appear after few washes.

Unfortunately, honda paint is one of the softest paint to date. My go to is always perfect cut 20 + softest polishing pad on a dual action polisher. That's how soft the paint is.

You can look at aliexpress, antirain, osren, scgb, meguairs for start.
drying cloth? i always recommend fireball twisted towel. but somehow they have not been restocking.

Mine lasted for 3 years. Still doing good.
I dry it indoors and don't really twist it to dry after each wash.