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 Car Care & Detailing [V5], Caring for your car apprearance

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m_man
post May 6 2020, 03:16 PM

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QUOTE(frankzane @ May 4 2020, 05:19 PM)
Turtle Carnauba Wax (green container). Yes, I agree with you but it only happened this time. Used to be OK.

Could it be some spores attached to the sponge and transferred onto the wax?
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Possibly. But maybe it's just the dampness and humidity caused by the rainy weather. hmm.gif

Or maybe you applied too much of it and it starts to cake up, hence causing mold to live off it. Because we are only supposed to apply very little product.

This post has been edited by m_man: May 6 2020, 03:16 PM
m_man
post May 6 2020, 03:19 PM

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QUOTE(woodentiger86 @ May 4 2020, 06:31 PM)
No wonder!!

Every morning sure got dead small bugs on my car's roof...

Maybe they love the smell of whatever wax/coat I have applied...

Latest is Meg's Mirror Bright which admittedly has quite a nice scent too. brows.gif
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Haha. They probably poisoned themselves after eating all the candy.

I heard good things about Mirror Bright Wax. I plan to try it out.


m_man
post May 6 2020, 03:47 PM

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Never tried any clay mitts or cloth yet. Still prefer the good old clay bar, I'm a traditionalist in that sense. rolleyes.gif One thing is for sure, I will never use a clay bar unless it is absolutely necessary. I prefer to just do a few passes with the clay and then proceed to mow-down the paint with quick passes before polishing it proper.

I think those paint touch up kits are just a stop gap solution. sad.gif If it's plastic, I'll usually won't bother since no rusting possible. As for application, the pros usually use a tiny baking brush to lightly dape the paint onto the area. Some use a syringe to slowly "inject".

In the end, nothing beats a proper touch up at the body shop. FYI, my usual body shop uncle told me that there will be no visible joint mark for painting a portion of a plastic part. Metal is a different story, so the whole panel needs to be repainted. But your colour match will cabut one way or another. sad.gif


m_man
post May 6 2020, 03:49 PM

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QUOTE(woodentiger86 @ May 6 2020, 03:26 PM)
Which one. This one ah bro?

user posted image
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Ah yes this one. Are you using this?

m_man
post May 6 2020, 09:10 PM

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QUOTE(GuyM @ May 6 2020, 07:48 PM)
OK bought these
Tried the degreser, failed. Then try PG, SUCCESS! WILL take  a photo tomorrow
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The Simple Green Motorsport is a great degreaser. Not too powderful, not too weak, just nice for me.
m_man
post May 6 2020, 09:19 PM

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QUOTE(woodentiger86 @ May 6 2020, 04:07 PM)
Nope. I'm using the detailing spray though.

user posted image

Kinda tempted to try paste wax again - Soft 99 Kiwami comes to mind...
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Ah I see. Haven't tried Kiwami yet. I'm actually looking for a pure carnauba wax. Soft 99 Authentic comes to mind. but I heard Collinite #476 or #915 are the gold standard when it comes to affordable pure carnauba. hmm.gif

Unlike Swiss Vax....Mahal gila rclxub.gif

No doubt the latest in sealants and ceramic sprays last the longest, but I believe pure carnauba still has a place today e.g classic cars. And of course nothing beats the feeling of applying a traditional paste wax. thumbsup.gif

m_man
post May 6 2020, 09:21 PM

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QUOTE(frankzane @ May 6 2020, 06:25 PM)
Well, I only applied very little.
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Then it must be the weather then. hmm.gif

Anyway, perhaps you should strip it off and reapply. I believe that's the Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell right?
m_man
post May 6 2020, 09:26 PM

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Brother Waliuuuu,

I stalked around your Shopee and found the wheel cleaner to be of great interest to me. Is it acid base?

m_man
post May 7 2020, 02:55 PM

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QUOTE(Waliuuu @ May 6 2020, 10:39 PM)
Hi, thanks for your interest. Wheel cleaner is alkaline based. The product can effectively remove all kinds of contaminants and is very cost effective as it is dilutable.
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Coolio. Do you have the Safety Data Sheet for the product? Or maybe you can disclose the main ingredients? sweat.gif Sorry, I'm a bit anal when it comes to chemicals. sweat.gif Also wanna reduce environmental impact. sweat.gif
m_man
post Jun 5 2020, 09:43 PM

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QUOTE(woodentiger86 @ Jun 5 2020, 04:50 PM)
Just to share my pride and joy:

user posted image

I know bro V429 asked how I maintained my ride with all those stickers around...The answer is - I tend to avoid rubbing or wiping those areas vigorously in case those decals, especially those texts becomes frayed or starts peeling. And oh, cannot simply spray any chemical on it otherwise the colour fades... Glaco especially. So i just apply along the glass area trying to be as careful when I buff them off.

So far, all's good.

Usually when those decals start to age/fade/peel, I will replace it with new ones.

I know it does seem rather ah beng of me to do up this way - rather think of it as striking out in a sea of ubiquitous rides since Myvis are practically everywhere.  cool2.gif
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Sticker galore! That's about 1000hp boost liao.
m_man
post Jun 6 2020, 08:39 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Jun 5 2020, 10:37 PM)
Nice posts on your signature btw. I wonder how many pads do you go through for these jobs? or rather how do you clean them between panels out in the job? And XFE cordless looks great, why not the XCE though since using single machine?

I'm itching to go for wireless system, the XCE is one of the considered system.
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Many thanks. biggrin.gif

I wash them by hand and then spin them dry with the rotary after each panel. So I usually go through 2 to 3 pads per car. I try to stock up on pads on a monthly basis if possible.

I was supposed to get the XFE together with the cordless PE and PXE. But decided to be fiscally responsible for the time being until my shop is open. Not planning to get a force rotation anytime soon, don't see the point in getting one yet.


m_man
post Jun 6 2020, 08:56 PM

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QUOTE(hihihehe @ Jun 6 2020, 07:24 PM)
decided to DIY simple coating for new car soon so any recommendation for newbie like me?

i searched thru this thread and a lot using soft 99 fusso coat. i guess that should be fine?
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The term "coating" is pretty vague nowadays. Any product which has cross-linking nanotech can be considered a coating. To me, the Fusso Coat is more a sealant than a "coating" per se.

You can try beginner ceramic coatings like Carpro Cquartz Lite, Tacsystems Moonlight or Gyeon CanCoat, which are designed with ease of use in mind.

Tbh, I don't have experience applying a proper ceramic coating yet. So I can't really comment any further.

m_man
post Jun 6 2020, 09:47 PM

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Any traditional wax, sealant and coating will bead water. It's just a matter of how long the beading lasts until it starts sheeting water, and then finally wear out completely.

I never tried Fusso Coat, so I can't comment on its durability. But I would expect to get about 4 to 5 months of protection out of it, instead of the 12 months as advertised.

But bear in mind that water beading is not always desirable especially when you have water spotting issues. This is when water sheeting would be favorable instead.

But for long lasting water beading, any ceramic coating would do fine for you.




m_man
post Jun 7 2020, 11:15 AM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Jun 6 2020, 10:59 PM)
Ahh I see, I will get a cordless XCE eventually. Likely if I get hooked up with cordless I might grab the PXE to replace my Shinemate 3" DA and Rotary.

Do you use any solution when washing the pads by hand? Or just kneading it outwards with water only?
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Cordless is definitely the way to go. The only downside is the battery life, but I charge them after each panel so no issues for me. The PXE is a must if you do a lot of spot work. Otherwise, your Shinemate EX603 (i suppose) would do just fine. But it is definitely better than the Rupes nano price-wise.

The cordless XCE is quite expensive though. Costly enough to cover three sets of PE 8. Or in my case, almost the cost of the PE 150 + PXE combined. That is why I don't see the point in getting one because the advantages are marginal over a free-spinning long throw. Moreover, I'm a rotary kind of person, so I'm more super excited about getting the PE 150 instead. If you're still keen on the XCE, then a corded version would be a better choice in my opinion. Because the cordless ones are slightly less powerful than their corded siblings. And it's far cheaper.

I use dish soap or APC to wash the pads.

This post has been edited by m_man: Jun 7 2020, 11:39 AM
m_man
post Jun 7 2020, 11:35 AM

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QUOTE(hihihehe @ Jun 6 2020, 11:38 PM)
so what do you recommend me especially for a new car?
glossy and water beading are the reason i asking
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Depends on your budget. And how often you're willing to work on your car.

Ceramic coatings as someone mentioned are very susceptible to water spotting. No single ceramic coating in the market right now has what it takes to totally prevent water spots. It's just the intrinsic nature of glass, just like how you get soap scum and calcium deposits on your toilet glass or mirror. So you really need to stay on top of things. Coated surfaces actually require more care to look tip-top.

If you're the weekly wash kind of person, then yes you can consider a ceramic coating. If you pemalas and don't care, then maybe not. So you're better off with a wax or sealant instead. I've encountered a lot of trashed coatings which are far beyond rescue because the owners thought they don't have to do any sort of work apart from sending it in for the "yearly maintenance".

If you're still keen on a ceramic coating, then any reputable brand would do like Carpro, Gyeon, Tacsystems, Gteqniq, IGL, Modesta to name a few. There a lot of "Facebook marketing" products out there claiming their products to contain ceramics, but I usually take them with a raised brow. Because it actually takes effort and R& D to formulate a good ceramic coating.

I think Gyeon CanCoat may be suitable for you since it's easy to use. Or the Turtle Wax Ceramic Spray Coating, IGL Premier, or Carpro Reload if you decide to go for ceramic-based sealants instead.


m_man
post Jun 7 2020, 01:49 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Jun 7 2020, 12:03 PM)
You rotate the batteries after each panel, due to routine or do they run out of juice? I think the runtime was about 45 minutes (not sure was this the XCE or XFE, but the later has higher runtime), so should be able to cover 2-3 panels since there's some downtime in between for buffing and etc. I have both the EP803 (mini rotary) and EX603 (mini DA), which I used for edges and spot corrections.

The cordless XCE is +RM680 vs. cordless XFE, I don't plan on getting a full sized rotary so GA is something in between. Main motivation is I wanted more cut for glass correction, especially wiper tracks. My current 8mm DA kinda meh on this, and also I tried a friend's 15mm DA, not much improvement =/ so I considered the XCE and then it had as cordless option where I thought of getting the lights and blower too since they all uses the same battery. You're right about the corded XCE being more powerful, and also it has a compensation tachy/tacho thingy to prevent bog down while the cordless doesn't.

Every time I detail, I always get tired of laying the extension cords and then storing them back. I think for detailing shop this doesn't really matter since just put the machine back on the work table or something.

You are going for the cordless PE150? Or maybe the corded now for more power and since you're using in your shop in the future. Given a choice if you could decide between corded and cordless XFE, would you still go with the cordless XFE?

Thanks for the info, much appreciated to get actual feedback from Flex customers... so far the inputs I've gotten are from the seller so I'm taking it as a pinch of salt for now.
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Rotating them to maximize charge cycles. They last about 30 to 40 mins per full charge.

Since the PE-14 and the PE 150 are priced similarly, I'll get a cordless version since I'm planning to get a few more batteries. I don't usually go above 1000rpm on a rotary, so power is not an issue for me.

And I'll go cordless for the convenience of not needing to worry about extensions, so no regrets getting the cordless XFE. I'm a low and slow, weight of the machine kind of person. So stalling is technically not an issue for me. Even so, Flex DAs don't stall as easy as Rupes ones anyways. But I think I'll be using the PE 150 much more exclusively than the XFE.

This post has been edited by m_man: Jun 7 2020, 01:50 PM
m_man
post Jun 7 2020, 03:03 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Jun 7 2020, 02:31 PM)
notworthy.gif thanks for the inputs! I was chatting with one of the dealers (closest to me he's at Tampin). Cool guy who shared his experience on the cordless XCE to me too, his run time quiet similar to what you're getting. And he said usually the charger shows 48 minutes to full.. so I guess technically able to run at least 1-2 panels before going flat.
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No problem. smile.gif

m_man
post Jun 7 2020, 08:49 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Jun 7 2020, 08:19 PM)
m_man ^

Btw what is the reason for sale? This unit purchased from DK? Warranty until when?
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Interesting.

But sorry, I feel safer with a warranty. I can't afford to have my tools breakdown in the middle of a job. Time is money.

My Meguiar's MT320 failed on me once before. But Meguiar's Malaysia was quick to fix it within a week. So I value a warranty. sweat.gif

Plus, DK has expressed interest to make me a representative and reseller for Flex once they get Flex Malaysia up and running. So ya guess I can't buy from anyone else... sweat.gif

This post has been edited by m_man: Jun 7 2020, 08:52 PM
m_man
post Jun 10 2020, 03:24 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Jun 7 2020, 09:06 PM)
laugh.gif that is nice, getting the items for your own use at cheaper price while selling them and making money too. Flex needs more exposure here in Malaysia! I search for Flex Malaysia, and I found one of his dealer in Tampin, then only I found DK.
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Agreed. Flex machines just feel so much more robust compared to Rupes. Not trying to shit on Rupes, but I think they are a bit overpriced. I am better off saving some money by buying Shinemate instead...
m_man
post Jun 10 2020, 03:40 PM

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Normal cars measure at only 2-3 mils according to my experience, and that leaves you about 1 mil of clearcoat to play around. My father's ceramic coated BMW, never heavily corrected or polished before measures at 4 to 5 mils only, with some areas dipping down to 2 to 3 mils. In conclusion, paint systems are getting thinner.

I'm using one of those cheapo gauges for now. But plan to get something proper because I really need one for business. Also need to get a gloss meter.

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