Is that a Myvi or a Perodua? If so, Perodua red is extremely porous according to my experience. Not sure why, but it is what it is. Had a freshly coated red Myvi with the same issue. I use mild APC to clean it off.

Do wear a mask when using Delete. Only light pressure is needed to work the solution.

PreCoat is just 75% IPA with a scent.

This post has been edited by m_man: Nov 28 2020, 08:58 PM

I started out with cheap Chinese no brand pure bristle brushes, but they broke after a while. I’m using the Carpro or Maxshine ones now. Not cheap but well worth the price. At least from a professional standpoint.

Not sure what your budget is, but there are a few plastic specific options out there such as Carpro Dlux or Cerakote. I use IGL Trim professionally. Otherwise, you can consider those cheap Chinese coatings and be done with it.

That looks very serious. You can try polishing it off with a glass polish e.g Carpro Ceriglass. But that might take a lot of effort with hand. I would attempt it with a rotary polisher and rayon pad. NEVER EVER use acid cleaners on your front windscreen.

Use whatever that suits your budget. I never tried any of those Facebook marketing rebrands so I can't comment on them.

This post has been edited by m_man: Apr 20 2021, 10:49 PM

IGL Delete contains Sulphuric Acid (I use it regularly on my clients' vehicles). Hence the warning not to use it on the front windscreen as I have people coming to me with permanent stains on the wiper marks, simply because they attempted to remove water spots with a water spot remover.

Those look like Type 2 water spots, and the best fix in my experience is to go straight to polishing usinf Cerium Oxide. But the vinegar technique might work for him.

My 2 cents.

Just polish lightly with some mild polish or cleaner wax. Tread carefully and you'll be fine.

Fusso has high solvent content, so it will definitely strip whatever wax/sealant applied. So I would personally stick with Luxury gloss or any other spray protection.

It's generally not a good idea to mix organic waxes with polymer.

Hope this helps.

Wax: Commonly in paste or liquid form. Usually contains organic compounds like carnauba, beeswax, montan, etc. High-end concourse grade paste waxes usually contain high-grade T1 carnauba. Ease of application varies but are usually easy. Durability is usually low-mid because organic compounds don't tend to last long.

Sealant: Commonly in paste, liquid and spray form. Usually contains inorganic polymers that will cross-link with the paint, thus creating a barrier e.g Silica (SiO2), Graphene, Fluoro polymers, etc. Ease of application varies and usually require a bit more elbow grease e.g Fusso Coat. There is also a "flash time" i.e the time for solvent to evaporate before wiping off. Durability varies depending on form. Paste products tend to last longer than spray products.

Coatings: Full blown paint protection solution. Contains various ingredients, but usual suspect is Silica as the base material. Coatings can be further reinforced with Graphene, nano-diamonds, Titanium, Silicon Carbide, Fluorine, etc. Ease of application varies depending on the percentage of active ingredients. The more the active ingredients, the lesser the solvent/transfer solution. Lesser solvents means more forgiving flash times or leveling time. Durability also depends on the active ingredients. Professional only (not available to consumers or prosumers) coatings will last the longest. Finally, coatings require full prep before application, so polishing is recommended.

If you have the time and money. Go for a coating. If you don't mind or actually enjoy applying something more often, then a wax or sealant is more than enough.

Hope this helps.

This post has been edited by m_man: Nov 21 2024, 12:43 AM

Alcantara is just some branded synthetic suede. Just clean and maintain using any fabric cleaning products.

This post has been edited by m_man: Nov 21 2024, 12:53 AM