i dunno leh. i only used mine 2-3times less than 1hour total.. damn useless cos too much vibration. oh well long ago, bonus link FOC redemption item.

you can try, dont think it will make more swirl especially if u using a polishing pad and proper polish/swirl remover.

I went thru what you are at now. That BD will not even burn your paint, no worry. Polishing pad, I assume you are using the black pad? Very low cutting power and it does remove holograms. Swirl marks? Not really.. I gave the same panel a few passes, means repeat polishing the same panel for a few times, the swirl marks are still there, but holograms were removed. Cheers~

Depends on quality. I heard Rupes is less noisy than the duplicated/generic ones.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Ca...0612.0.0.el3QII

You should check with osren too, i remember once henry tried introducing me the garden hose snow foam

I'm no sifu

Grey force disc yes.
Microfiber pad too.

Mf has got better cutting ability, but i hardly use it cause cleaning on the fly is difficult without air pressure gun.

Grey force disc is my go to now. the shape allows pad to continue to rotate even at difficult angles. Slightly better than others.

Generally white cars will look dirty faster than other colours, and depending on the brand of car u buy, there is a possibility of the white paint turning yellow-ish over time. However, advantage of white car is most of the time u wont be able to notice any swirls or fine scratches on the paint unless shine under specific type of lighting.

Grey cars dont look as dirty so fast, but generally grey cars wont significantly stand out compared to other colours even if after polishing and waxing/coating.

Finally i buy clay bar from shopee online direct from china. im in melaka. i cant go to KL just to get clay bar. time is very precious.

perhaps people in melaka never clay bar their car. aeon and tesco also dont have. i am very disappointed.

Never used PG's quick detailer before, but personally I clay with Meguiars Quik Detailer or Last Touch (diluted) on dry surfaces, but work on half panel at a time and wipe off residue before it dries. Maybe try diluting your PG quick detailer 1:1 ratio and see if it still have wiping off issue.
Yes, big difference if u are comparing against those china-mari no brand types are untested by local distributors. There are numerous potential issues I had encountered before buying those cheap pads, such as the pad density/firmness is the same regardless of their description (say one for compounding and the other for polishing, but both too soft to do anything), pad size not compatible with backing plates (cutting too small end up too close to edge of backing plate), some pads doesnt absorb the polish properly end up everything sandwich on the pad surface, etc.

I personally would recommend to at minimum buy pads from local distributors that got do their own testing of pads before selling, or like Osren that have done all the testing and custom manufacturing of their own pads. At least if the pad has some issues u can refer back to these guys for replacement.

I personally think investing in good pads for home detailers can last very very long because u wont be polishing daily/weekly. I use to have a set of Lake Country CCS pads that lasted me 5-7 years when home detailing. In shop detailing those pads only lasted 2-3 months, hehehe...

I doubt the "wax" in the Meg Ultimate Wash & Wax is significant enough to do anything. I did a test on the wash before. See here. Even if it does, should it not "enhance" Meg Ultimate Paste Wax? Since they are both from the same range.
Not a straight forward answer but let me share what I think. Please bear with me.

If water beads up it shows that the surface is hydrophobic and because of the surface tension of water, it will not "wet" the surface and beads up. The general idea of a hydrophobic surface is that dirty liquid will not "wet" and smear all over the surface. But if those water droplets are left to stay till to dry (and with some dirt encapsulated in them), there could potentially be water mark. So I read.

IMHO sealants protects the paint by being a sacrificial barrier. It prevents dirt from sticking directly onto the paint. Be it hydrophobic or slick. So a slick surface that sheets away water and dirt is as good as a surface that beads water. It is just that a surface that beads water gives a Wow effect. And this is where the marketing gimmick works, I guess 

Just my 2 sen on rotary, Makita is a workhorse that has been a long favorite by professional detailers for a long time, but it is a heavy machine when compared to hitachi/ken/bosch. When polishing long hours on the side doors and panels, the makita weight can tire u out rather quick if u not used to it. I would suggest testing out each machine first before deciding.

Also, perhaps consider a DA machine instead. A good DA machine that doesnt have massive vibrations during operation can be a better companion for home based detailing.

if possible get the hitachi/makita. the machine will stop when you apply pressure

Erm, not trying to challenge the guys at Osren, but AFAIK rotary has more base power than DA, which means that for cutting down scratches rotary is very good, but finishing swirl free is harder because of its power. DA on the other hand has lower base power, so cutting down scratches takes longer but swirl free is much easier to achieve.

Personally I would still suggest getting a DA because both your cars are japanese (which means their clearcoat is medium hardness), and u are also new to machine polishing. Then, if osren's perfect cut 20 cant finish swirl-free, try other polishes like meguiars ultimate polish or m205. Also, a good polishing/finishing pad helps.

DA is also great for applying waxes like what gfwong mentioned. Not recommended to apply wax with rotary.

I believe your existing setup is sufficient for what you need. Change to another compound product as what blurcase told you if you think the cutting power is not enough. However, skill also matters. So, you might probably get more cutting from perfect cut by adjusting your pressure, passes, speed, etc.

Da. But get the dap15. Cause dap8 vibrates like hell. Your hand will go numb for long hours usage. Plus the noise, crazy loud compared to dap15.
Good for swirl removal. Also extra cutting just go for microfiber disc. The dap15 got better torque compared to dap8, yet safe for beginners.

It is up to you. But my suggestion is still go for the dap15.
Better ergonomics, less time consuming, less noise and vibration, better swirl buster.

3-4 mins per panel is too quick imo. Depending on how bad the swirls are.

In terms of combo, try different pads and polishes and u will find out which is best. Always, the principle is start from least aggressive method first.
Hehe, just sharing from experience, not so much of stopping, but more of knowing the factors that can affect usage.