Wax tend to stick on paint better than smooth plastic, acrylic, or polycarbonate. And we wouldn't know how effective is the UV inhabit in wax. Guess that's where the headlight protectant comes in.

The headlight's factory UV resistant coating  would go away one day due to UV. Guess it wouldn't be a bad idea to protect the protective layer while you could.

BTW, there's no need to protect the tail light. Acrylic does not turn yellow due to UV.

waiting for your feedback bro
btw,
I just went out and bought meg white wax after reading its cleaning ability and did wash->clay->wash then rubbing that meg white wax all over my gf silver moon dust iriz yesterday. it was a quick 3 hours task and I did not expect miracle from hand application.

but Damn! I was totally shocked to find the applicator pad has been stained black from just from rubbing a panel. I was expecting the claying part will take care most of the contaminants but i was so wrong. In the end i've used around 6 pads to wax the whole car.

nevertheless, I am quite satisfied with the end result since the paint really popping out now and thinking back about how many contaminants i have removed from the surface

side note: that wax in metal tube form is plain stupid to use!

hello sifus, looking for lake country 5.5' foam pad. Can't find any seller in penang, any online seller to intro? thanks

Haha, actually I just bought Carpro IronX and TarX, but plan to use it on car body panel to remove contaminants and ease my claying process after that. For rims I use Cartec acid-free wheel cleaner (its alkaline instead of acid).
Try claying. If doesnt work, try wax cleaner. If doesnt work try polishing/compounding.

I suggest claying before reapplying wax after 2-3 months. Wax cleaner depends, do a test spot after claying to see if paint have stubborn dirt.

If dont clay and apply wax immediately, there is a risk ur wax and ur pad may pickup contaminants that will scratch the paint.

You can opt for spray wax, not as damaging as using machine that causes more friction.

For me I use spray wax so during drying I just spray and wipe dry. Followed by a mf cloth to buff

Hi guys. Got a random question for u guys as home detailing enthusiasts.

If there is a car detailing garage available for rent, facilities provided is pressure washer, air compressor with gun, vacuum cleaner and electrical extension, only bring your own chemicals and polishing machines, fully lockable and secured for overnight stay. Would u guys be willing to rent such a facility?

same here.. but my case i can start to see the car more kilat after let say, 12 hours. i attribute that to the sealant that cross linked during that period which makes the car shinier/glossier. More obvious when i use optimum product such as after wash using ONR.

what wax and shampoo are u using ?

have you ever wonder is that also your 'psychological' effect where you self-convincing with your own DIY work ?

Unless you have a gloss meter to proof else its not 100% trust-able haha

What's your car and color? White civic if I remember correctly?

Can someone intro me a reputable website where I can purchase detailing stuff?

Any CG user here ?

still prefer foreign brand.

CG shampoo is great, aside Optimum, MG, ValetPro, Sonax etc

I use CG I use ButterWetWax, i like it a lor. Make the car gloss more.
Anyway, where do you guys buy Sonax product from? Can't really find in the market much in malls.

their best wax is the synergized

I've tried Osren's Paint Restorer (AIO). Easy to apply and buff (used my DA).

Meguiar's Ultimate Wax is also easy to use, would not stain trims but durability is poor.

Others include Duragloss 105, Zaino Z2, Polish Angel Master Sealant, Dodo Juice Iron Gloss, Auto Finesse Power Seal and Meguiars NXT 2.0,