Mmm, generally u should go back to your coating detailer for that opinion as their package should contain a specific cleaner that is safe for your coating and removes water spots. For Carpro, they have a product called Spotless that is formulated safe for their coatings.

Yup, personally the more I watch the videos from Dallas Auto Paint Correction, the more I take a pinch of salt to what he says. I understand he has alot of professional experience with detailing, so I wont dispute his experience and expertise, but I dont like the idea that ppl try to trash talk or disprove of everything the detailing industry norm has on almost every recent video. It makes me feel more like they are doing it just to get more ppl viewing their videos and make money from Youtube rather than being honest about things. I believe everything in detailing has its pros and cons, and to only tell one side of the story most of the time isnt a balanced view.

I have not tried Meguiar's Ultimate Fast Finish, but from reviews and how it works, it looks like a liquid wax put in aerosol can. From my personal experience with aerosol cans, there can be disadvantages such as the compressed air finish before the product finish. In this case the remaining product becomes wasted. Another disadvantage is nozzle clogging, but this only commonly occurs in spray paint, hopefully it doesnt happen to this product.

I also will stick to my current regime. I am currently using Meguiars NXT Ultimate Wash, and I find it effective in cleaning the car even though it is pH neutral. My ratio of concentrate to water is higher than recommended in the label description, as it gives me more effective cleaning of visible contaminants. For non-visible and below surface contaminants, I continue to use clay, tar remover, and polish when necessary. For protection I wax or coat, but now trying out spray sealants as well.

Just my 2 sen.

Unfortunately from my experience there are certain contaminants that wont come off even with claying. Whether they are old wax residue or contaminants from driving, I am not entirely sure. However, considering that wax and the applicator pads generally do have some minor abrasion (probably the lowest form, enough to remove contaminants but not enough to scratch or polish paint), it will lift some of the contaminants off, hence u see your applicator pad turning black after applying wax on a few panels. My personal recommendation is always to have more than 1 wax pad, preferably 3-4 pads as they are not that expensive, and change once the pad starts getting dirty. Another alternative would be to use a cleaner wax prior to waxing. Please do read this article for a better clarification:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/2009-2...ishing-wax.html

Whether using a stronger detergent can actually clean your car to the point where ur wax pads wont turn black when waxing, I wouldnt know to be honest. But would I be willing to risk my entire car paint durability by using such strong detergent? Personally I believe my car cleaning regime of using Meguiars NXT have proven well for me in the last 10 years of maintaining my car without respray, so I dont think I need a stronger solution than what I have now.

Guess it is quite normal that once the detailers get very experienced, they may have different ideas on existing products in the market and want to create their own. Larry from Ammo NYC is also one of them, as if u watch his videos from many years ago he was all about Meguiars, now he has his own brand of products. I have even met a detailer in Puchong that does sells detailing products, and on the side has told me he is currently creating his own blend of products.

Mmm, AIO to me is very good for new and very well maintained cars. But for those that are gonna go crazy and chase orange peel and trying to remove every scratch they find, the compound/polishing combo still works best. Dont get me wrong, I think it is a great product, Meguiars had a previous one called Paint Reconditioning Cream, even Osren has one also.

Guess that boils down to purchasing power, which unfortunately our currency dont have. If our currency is 1:1 with US, then we also no issue to buy their products.

Mmm, I am not a chemistry expert (form 5 Chemistry also barely pass, that also knowledge all give back teacher liao), so wouldnt be able to say for sure the justification of pH towards cleaning purposes. As not all dirt, grime and contaminants are created equal, so perhaps pH can play a role in breaking contaminants down for easy clean off before the emulsifier lifts the oil layer. This is what I see from toilet floor cleaners, as hardware shops sells acids for cleaning dirty floors and tell u to just pour on the floor, watch all the stubborn dirt bubble up, then wash away with plenty water to neutralize the acid.

This is just my 2 sen layman theory.

Perhaps try to clay, then run your AIO again on it. There is a possibility that u didnt clay, so end up when polish with AIO, it picks up contaminants and continue to swirl your spoiler. Alternatively instead of using AIO, use a fine polish such as Osren Perfect Cut 20 or Meguiars Ultimate Polish to refine it.

Just to confirm, your spoiler paint have not cracked or peel off right? I see many older myvi spoiler paint eventually crack or peel/flake off eventually.

Erm, maybe u wanna describe the issue in more detail. To say totally no glossy look means that your clearcoat is totally gone, which technically nothing u can do but repaint.

I am assuming your clearcoat is still on the spoiler. So just reclay and polish again, the shine should return and swirls removed, then wax it to protect.

Theoretically agreed on possibility of overpolishing, but to come from an AIO polish is something I have not heard of before. The amount of cut produced by AIO polishes are not as aggressive as most other typical compounding creams, and to some extent it is not even supposed to be as aggressive as most polishing creams. If not mistaken AIO is positioned to be fine polish and cleaner wax bracket.

The only way to know for sure is if after rubbing the cream on the car, the pad becomes the car colour (example if car colour red, ur pad colour become red after rubbing), then confirm clearcoat gone.

I typically machine wash my microfiber cloths. Very important is to put them into lint bags before throwing into washing machine so that minimize lint from washing machine stick onto cloth.

Any liquid detergent is fine, but try to avoid powder based detergents because sometimes they dont break down properly and end up getting stuck in your cloth.

Yes, air dry is best. It can be warm but not under direct sunlight.

Yes correct, but the holes are very fine type, finer than mosquito netting if u seen it before.

Yes correct. This is the lint bag I normally use. If u have daiso near your place u can find it there. Comes in many sizes and designs.

Oh just to mention that another important feature of these bags is it also reduces your cloth stretching over time, so your cloth wont run out of shape.

Hand wash only stretch the cloth if u twist it to remove maximum water. What I normally do if hand washing or rinsing microfiber cloths is to either roll it into a ball and squeeze inwards first, then fold it over 2 times and do small twists between thumb and 1-2 fingers width. Its a bit hard to explain, but basically I do multiple small twists instead of 1 big twist to remove water when hand washing. This also reduces possibility of stretching the cloth.

Yes, fold up the cloth 2 times, then small twists every 1-2 inches depending on size of cloth after folding. My cloths are generally long rather than square, so I tend to fold 1/3, then another 1/3.

Mmm, while I agree with everyone that your spoiler problem can be rectified, whether compound can remove such scratches based on your picture remains to be seen. If u are willing to try, u could try wetsanding with 1500 grit sandpaper followed by 3000 grit sandpaper before proceeding to compound and polish. Even if wetsanding is too risky, I may suggest the alternative to use denim/jeans pad if wanna remove those scratches. However, this is just my personal opinion. Proceed at your own risk.

That is called a vertical rotary polisher.

Nothing wrong with buying rotary if DA over price budget. Just the machine alone is only 1 factor in polishing cars, the other 3 factors are pad, cream and technique. Whether rotary or DA, the same precautions apply, start with least aggressive method.

U can even get Skil vertical rotary polisher as I think it is the cheapest in the branded range, less than RM300 if not mistaken. AFAIK, the Japs prefer vertical rotary polishers over the standard ones, and the produce brilliant shine too.

Just my 2 sen.

For vertical panels, I usually sit on low stool or floor (depending on height), sometimes kneel on pillow. When in sitting position, I support my arms by resting my elbows on top of my knees to reduce muscle fatigue. My principle is consistant body distance from machine so that I dont overstretch my arms carrying heavy polishers like rotary or even Rupes DA.

Also important is to drink lots of water and good to have isotonic drinks handy, and abit more rest in between.

Just my 2 sen.

I think the Shinemate ones work decently enough. 12mm 5" or 12mm 3" DA usually is safe bet for starting out. If u feel more adventurous or want quicker cut in your work, then 15mm/21mm is the way to go. Price wise it isnt half bad. I met the boss of Active Star before, based in Puchong, friendly guy and seems committed to expand his distribution. U can also ask him if u want any other products, he carries a wide range, just that not very active in putting his products for online display.

Hmm, for your case of long exposure to sun issues, it can be a hit or miss. U could try doing some hand compound/polish on a small spot to see if the shine comes back. However, most of the time your type of case would probably require at least wetsanding to peel off that dead layer of paint, or end up just respraying.

If u dont have any compound/polish at home, try go to a detailing shop that u are regular with, borrow a few drops of compound and polish and try to work on a spot.

Sorry bro, I live all the way Wangsa Maju side, so not familiar with Puchong detailing shops. There is one I know of that is 2 doors away from Active Star Trading, local SGCB distributor. U could try there. Address is on Jalan Puteri 5/16.

I used Bosch GEX 125-1 A/AE as my first ever DA, and personally I think it is only good for minor polishing and paint cleaning. The throw of its DA action is too short to do any meaningful cutting/compounding in my personal opinion. Just upgrading to any 8mm-12mm DA will show a night and day difference it DA capabilities.

Never tried the Worx before, but if its DA throw is anywhere like the Bosch GEX, then dont think it is any better anyways.

Just my 2 sen.

Erm, I got my Rupes LHR21Mk2 at RM2500, Rupes iBrid Nano at RM3300, both from the official Malaysian distributor.

If u are asking for ideal price, I think everyone would agree that the cheaper the better.