Lol, okay here goes:


The bag comes as a complete carry kit. I would have preferred they sold more separately, cuz some of the stuff are probably not gonna be used.


Autocolortech Marketing only sells the Long Neck version. Comes with 2 batteries and charger and also power adapter if u want to run on direct power instead of battery. The batteries can run about 35-40mins, and charging is about 20-35 mins full charge, so can be endless cycling batteries with minimal downtime.


Blue and yellow pads at back row comes with the kit. Not a big fan of the blue pads, after a few use it starts to disintegrate. Front row are LC MF cutting pads and finish pads from Detailed Image.


Top row: Some brush, opening tool, another brush
Middle row: Rotary attachment, 12mm DA attachment, 3mm DA attachment
Bottom row: Sanding backing pad, 2" backing pad, 1" backing pad


Left pack is microfiber cloths. Right side are some manuals and 1" sanding discs.

Overall a very good tool to get on tight areas and work on selected spots. I contemplated between this kit and the Rupes LHR75E, but felt this kit more versatile.

Anyways, please dont take me as bragging because I buy expensive tools. I think detailing is a hobby for everyone here, some spend more some spend less, most important is share knowledge and enjoy the fun of detailing.


The UV coating can be damaged through running polish over. Not sure if the typical car coating works the same for headlamps. However if your headlamp is already yellowed, then u need to wet-sand, compound and polish the headlamp before applying any coating.

I saw a youtube video by ChrisFix that shows he use a special clear UV resistant spray paint to respray his headlamps after he removed all the haze and yellowing. If anyone knows where to get such spray paint please share info. Thanks.

Yeah, it is only cheaper if u happen to have someone in UK coming back and u can tumpang bring back.

Mmm, didnt see Shinemate EP803 when I was considering the iBrid. Guess the ultimate question is whether u want the DA function or not. For me, the key point was 1" and 2" and DA/rotary capabilities.

If u dont mind waiting, maybe see if Rupes would launch a revision of this iBrid with more items sold separately rather that in bundle like this.

Mmm, the more I read your post, I understand u are looking for interior cleaner, correct? For interior rubber and vinyl cleaning, I think the most economical way is just to use some diluted dish detergent, then follow up with some protectant like Meguiars Natural shine protectant or ultimate protectant.

For cleaning bird poop, jetspray with garden hose water to break loose the bigger chunks, then gently rub off the rest with a wash mitt and some car soap.

Nice and shiny. Good water beading.

Yeah, I compared with Slim's Detailing and few other places. Price difference bigger if u could get VAT refund.

Mmm, guess it depends from panel to panel. I usually run iBrid on DA mode cuz its most tricky for me at the boot section, but I dont think the paint is significantly thinner there compared to other common areas. Just my personal gut feel as I dont have a paint gauge to assess, hehe

I do realize that painted plastics do sometimes have a slightly softer clearcoat than painted metal panels. At least that is based on my latest experience with my wife's black Altis.

However I do spot defect removals using rotary mode on iBrid for some severe or deep defects.

Does your car have good quality tinting? That is first step in maintaining car interior, as it helps to block out most of the UV rays that can potentially dry interior parts.

When u have time, every 2-3 months, try to use a damp microfiber towel and wipe the interior, followed up by applying some form of interior protectant like Meguiars Natural Shine protectant. Such protectant usually only need to apply on dashboard, door interior panels, center console area. Areas that dont require protectant would be your gear knob, steering wheel, radio, meter display.

For your leather seats u should try get some form of leather cleaner and conditioner (Meguiars have one), and also do once every 3-6 months. For driver seat maybe more frequent as usually that is the most common seat used.

Hope this helps.

Mmm, sorry, I am no tinting expert. I suppose u will need to visit a few shops and check out a few brands to see what works based on your budget. There is plenty of tinting brands these days, to the point it is hard to differentiate them other than price.

Among the pointers I can give is:

1) Check for UV blocking percentage
2) Check for Heat reduction percentage
3) If u are a Smart-tag user, or live in a gated community/condo and require waving a pass tag of some sort, check if the tinting will allow or block the signal.

On point 3, I discovered a certain type of 3M tint actually blocks Smart-tag signal, so end up I have to wind down window each time I use my Smart-tag.

Hope this helps.

Erm, can let us know what polisher exactly are u using?

To clarify your steps, compound and polish cream is not "applied", u should be "rubbing" or "buffing" the compound/polish cream. Try google some car detailing videos on youtube to learn more.

Also, wool pad is not meant for buffing out waxes. Wool pads are the roughest pads meant for compounding (removing deep scratches and imperfections). A wax pad or finishing foam pad is used for applying waxes, then a clean microfiber cloth is used to buff off the excess residue.

If u find difficulty buffing off wax residue, that means u applied your wax too thick. Try to apply thinner coat of wax instead.

In general, pads are defined by their hardness, the harder the pad the stronger cream is used.

1) Hardest pad pair with compound cream
2) Medium pad pair with polish cream
3) Softest pad pair with wax

Again, compounding/polishing is not applying cream. Think of compounding/polishing like sandpaper, compound cream and hard pad is like rougher sandpaper, polish cream and medium pad is like fine sandpaper. U are using the cream and pad combo to polish (remove a fine layer of paint) from the surface. So after running the combo for a short period of time, wipe off residue compound/polish.

Only wax is considered applied on, because it has no abrasives and is meant to add protection to your car.

Maybe u should take some photos of what pad and creams u have and post here, then ppl here can assist on advising u further.

5 inch pads are cut abit bigger than the backing plate measurement, so u should have no issues if just getting back 5 inch pads.

Mmm, from the looks of your photo, it looks like all your products are either AIO creams, or just pure wax. Sorry, I dont read Chinese, so cant tell exactly what the other 2 products are. However, AIO creams do abit of compound/polish and usually leave a thin layer of wax.

As for your Osren product, did u consult with Osren on how to use it? They should be able to guide u.

In terms of your foam pads, u probably need a wax pad to apply waxes.

I generally prefer to buy pads from detailing supplies shops like Osren, or order from US. These are the reasons:

1) Reputable detailing suppliers either test the pads before they sell, or their clients give feedback on the pads they sell. They do the research so that u dont have to headache.
2) Pads sold cheap in a bundle often dont work as advertised. I bought before such cheap pads and most of them dont have the right foam density or texture to do any proper compounding/polishing work.
3) Quality pads are always cut to the size that is bigger than backing plate. Cheap pads tend to cut right at the edge of backing plate, so often it risk scratching ur car body. The velcro on cheap pads also dont last as long.

If u dont mind spending abit more, give Osren a FB message. They carry their own OEM pads as well as Lake Country pads, so they can advise u on what to buy. If u are DIY at home type, usually 1-2 pad of each type (example is 1 compound pad, 2 polish pads, 1 wax pad) is more than enough to last a very long time.

My own practice (in between polish cycles):
Peel pad from machine, wash with garden hose and squeeze to remove polish residue, fold pad and squeeze to remove excess water, put in between thick microfiber towel and lay on floor and punch it to get towel to absorb remaining water.

My own practice (end of detailing session):
Put into small laundry bag, throw into washing machine and use clothes detergent to wash it out.

From my experience, wringing/twisting pad is not good because of it can damage pad and the velcro easily. Similarly, wringing/twisting microfiber cloth also not good because it overstretches the cloth and eventually make it less absorbent over long time.

Just my 2 sen experience.

Mmm, well, larger cloth should generally dry the car in one wipe without needing to wring. Alternatively is to split the drying task with different cloths. Example is big cloth only wipe body panel, use 1 small cloth for door jambs, 1 cloth for boot and engine area, 1 small cloth for rims. This is what I usually do.

I also do that as the last step if the other steps dont dry the pad enough.

Soooo, I had been having an annoyance with my relative's Myvi headlights whenever I see the car. It is quite an old car, about 2006-2007 model. Today she managed to spare abit of time for me to polish it while she attended her class. Just sharing some pics of the work:


This is how it looked like at the start. Both sides are almost equally faded and whatever film protecting it long gone.


Started with 1000 grit wetsanding by hand using forward-backward motion. Alot of brown water dripped off cuz I didnt wash or clay before starting.


Followed up with 2000 grit wetsanding by hand using left-right motion.


Final wetsanding by hand with 3000 grit using forward-backward motion.


Just to show the left one after completing the same wetsanding process.


For compounding, I used Meguiars m105 with microfiber cutting pad. For polishing I used Meguiars m205 with black finishing pad.


Finished result under semi cloudy daylight. Didnt have any appropriate protection product to apply, so left it as it were.

For this short detailing work I used the following products:

1) Machine: Rupes LHR21MkII, 5" backing plate and washer mod, mostly running speed 3 throughout the process.
2) Sanding: 1000, 2000, 3000 grit sandpaper
3) Compounding: Meguiars Microfiber cutting pad and Meguiars m105 Compound
4) Polishing: Meguiars Black finishing pad and Meguiars m205 Polish
5) 3 regular microfiber towels

Overall had only about 3 hours to get this done cuz she needed the car back after that. All the work was done within 1.5 hours. I think the lights came out okay considering its age. When turn on the headlamp lights can still see the little hairline cracks inside but cant do anything about that.

Didnt have LSP cuz didnt have an appropriate product. Wanted to apply something long lasting but dont have anything that would last very long, so left it bare, lol.

Mmm, not a fan of woolpads since microfiber pads came. How did Meguiars M100 work for u in sanding removal? Good? U did more steps than I did.

How is Gyrob Q2 Trim durability? Good?

Thanks!

No worries, detailing is alot of trial and error. Never fear that u will kill your car doing it, cuz paint spoil doesnt mean car total loss. If worst case do wrong until cannot recover, learn from it, repaint and try again.

I read old comments from some of the forumers here and also other reviews that Fusso Coat's shine factor is poorer than most other sealants/waxes, however its selling point is the durability of its coating can outlast most sealants/waxes.

Having said that, there is also a possibility you metallic silver car needed a more thorough polishing. If possible, try to strip all the sealants and waxes from ONE panel of each car, then use a warm white torchlight/sunlight/nighttime streetlight and check if there are still defects like swirls/holograms on the stripped panel of each car and compare.

Soooo, I was watching the latest video from Dallas Paint Correction (Link here), and very curious but also at odds about the idea.

To be fair, few years ago I bought and tried to use this product EZ Jet Water Cannon and it sucked big time. The cup cracked within few uses, and generally it leaked everywhere making water pressure very low. So when I watched this video I have some reservations about it.

The unit that Scott mentioned in his video is this one in link.

Anyone have experience or opinions about it? Worth a try or no?

Based on your statement I am assuming u stay around USJ or Subang area? If thats the case u can also consider visiting SGCB Malaysia, also known as Active Star Network Trading. Find their FB pages, they supply detailing products and also machines. They are based in Bandar Puteri Puchong. U can direct call or msg their boss Enan for more info. Hope that helps.

Mmm, Ezy Touchup is how I do it, but I use a very fine brush I get from regular art shops. I thought about the Paint Pen that Larry AmmoNYC recommended, but felt it didnt make sense if I needed to paint underside places or even side door areas.