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 Car Care & Detailing [V5], Caring for your car apprearance

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blurcase
post Aug 5 2017, 12:10 AM

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QUOTE(N33d @ Aug 4 2017, 11:11 PM)
suddenly one question came to my mind
if to let you guy choose with option and stick with it in your whole life
will you rather want a hard CC or a soft one?
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Hmm, tough question. I would say soft clearcoat reluctantly. Main reason for it is then I have more detailing activities to do rather than just washing and waxing. It probably sounds stupid like I am asking to torture myself, but I like it as my exercise. biggrin.gif biggrin.gif biggrin.gif
blurcase
post Aug 6 2017, 10:42 AM

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QUOTE(jakal sombong @ Aug 6 2017, 10:25 AM)
any idea on the pricing? anyway. if going there what product also is worth to purchase. any personal sales contact at osren easier to wassap them
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They carry a full range of detailing products, and have a small showroom inside their warehouse where u can see most of their collection displayed. Its almost like a kid going to toystore if u are the detailing enthusiast.

However, their prices are upon enquiry basis, as their big boss dont like ppl comparing prices before knowing their product better. U can visit their website for product range, PM them on FB for pricing info, and if u lucky meet the boss' son Henry at their office for more explanation or demo.

I like their spray bottles, cuz 1 liter size. Tar remover also very good. Overall prices are affordable if compared to US brands.
blurcase
post Aug 6 2017, 06:04 PM

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QUOTE(gfwong @ Aug 6 2017, 03:32 PM)
I don't know man, I always wash with shampoo.
AFAIK, shampoo not only acts as lubrication. It lowers the surface tension of water (form five kimia) so that water would wet the surface more and become more miscible with oil, grime, and dirt to carry them away. Shampoo also have properties to encapsulate dirt and "suspending" them away from the surface to prevent scratches. This is one of the key properties especially in rinseless wash shampoo but I think exists in all shampoos. This is known as colloidal properties. Sightly advanced chemistry but Google shalt be thou teacher. tongue.gif

Being an avid follower of Larry Kossila, and based on my understanding of basic chemistry,  I won't skip using shampoo. Being a technical guy by profession, I only work with data and understanding of basic principles. Using shampoo is my preference. I wouldn't say not using shampoo is wrong but it just scares the shit off me. So, there shall be no test from me.

Heck, there's even argument to not to use shampoo when washing our hair. Google and you'll find that there's also a 2 sided argument.

EDIT: Maybe read this for our hair: https://www.thehairpin.com/2014/01/what-ive...ithout-shampoo/

But baking soda add water is actually soap.
So it's home made shampoo.
https://www.quora.com/What-reaction-occurs-...g-soda-to-water

NaOH is alkali and soapy.
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Based on my former detailing shop experience, I come to conclusion that everyone's practice, preference and expectation can be different when it comes to car care. I have met ppl that come to my shop expecting a fast and cheap wash, complaining that wash price expensive even though they drive expensive car. I also met ppl that drive cheap cars that voice appreciation when I use different towels to wipe different areas, and even open up engine area just to give a simple wipedown. I have seen ppl who send their cars to cheap polish only to come to my shop to ask to rectify swirls a month later. I have also met ppl who prefer to send their cars to body spray shops just for polishing because they respray there before and got great polish out of it too.

I have experienced enough to know that best practice comes with knowledge and also convenience. Till today, I am still guilty at personal level of just doing a single bucket wash rather than 2 buckets because I find very minimal difference between both of them despite what is rationalized in best practices and I want to save abit of time and effort. Would I advocate my method over best practice? No I wont, I'd rather advocate best practice for newbies, then once they are accustomed to best practice, they start fine-tuning their own practice as they see fit. Better that than ppl accusing me of teaching wrong method end up causing their car scratches.

So I would say, each to his/her own methods. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion and creation of own methods. Some works, some dont, some debatable. Let us keep the thread alive and active with constructive discussion on this passion we love, cuz that's what brought us here to begin with. smile.gif
blurcase
post Aug 7 2017, 12:35 AM

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QUOTE(okboy @ Aug 6 2017, 09:35 PM)
how you guys wash the micro fiber towel and pad? thx
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My towel maintenance regime:

1) Microfiber towels (for drying after wash car): put into lint bag, throw into washing machine
2) Wash mitts (both microfiber): put in separate lint bag, throw into washing machine
3) Polish and other special towels: put into another separate lint bag, throw into washing machine
4) Polish pads: put into another separate lint bag, throw into washing machine

All washed using dynamo. No use powder based detergent because not all of the powder will dissolve so some will get stuck in the towels.

Also, lint bag serve 3 purpose:

1) prevent lint from washing machine stick onto towel
2) prevent lint from other towels in other lint bags from cross-contaminate
3) prevent towels from stretching and reducing its absorption ability.

QUOTE(jakal sombong @ Aug 6 2017, 11:41 PM)
thanks. will pm on facebook.

Btw after you wash - rinse - dry -
how do you guys clay ? which type of lubricant do you use ? or can just use soapy water ?
or any special type brand that can be used to make life easy while claying ?
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3 ways to clay:

1) claycloth + water: most economical, after wash before dry, clay then rinse then dry
2) claycloth + soapy water: dont use remaining soapy water from wash, cuz that one high chance contaminated with dirt, clean bucket and mix fresh soapy water. Clay before drying, rinse then dry
3) claybar + lube: I personally use Meguiars Last Touch (previously use consumer line Quik Detailer), after dry car, flatten claybar onto hand, spray some lube onto car, and rub.

The most extreme level of claying is best done with claybar and lube, cuz each time after clay a section of any panel, wipe dry and inspect by wearing plastic bag on your hand and gently feel the body. If still feel rough or bumpy, repeat process again. This is usually only necessary if u intend to do compounding/polishing and want to prevent pad contamination.

Unfortunately there is not much real easy way to clay. Claying works best with repetition of movement, not pressure. So it is more frequent rubbing, not rubbing harder, that gets work done. If u really want the best shortcut then perhaps u want to explore using the DA claypad (similar to claycloth tech) with a DA polisher machine.

This post has been edited by blurcase: Aug 7 2017, 12:36 AM
blurcase
post Aug 7 2017, 04:34 PM

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QUOTE(douglas_tong @ Aug 7 2017, 03:38 PM)
Spam bot spotted. Wrong target audience la.
We are not sending our cars to Canada.
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Haha, I wouldnt even send my car to detail in another state, whats more another country. biggrin.gif biggrin.gif biggrin.gif
blurcase
post Aug 7 2017, 09:15 PM

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QUOTE(CLian @ Aug 7 2017, 09:00 PM)
Hi, all. I need an urgent help here.

Two days ago, i tried polishing my car for the first time myself.
Unfortunately I let the polish liquid dry on my car for some time before watering it off.

Now there are many white line scars on my car.

Even the car wash person couldn't help me remove it.

Anybody has any solution?

Thanks.
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Can take picture of the issue and show to us? Be easier to diagnose and recommend.

Generally dried polish residue are easiest to remove via IPA and microfiber towel.
blurcase
post Aug 7 2017, 11:48 PM

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QUOTE(douglas_tong @ Aug 7 2017, 11:25 PM)
On paint or plastic I wonder
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Paint or plastic?

Just polish residue or DA swirls?

Thats why need picture, hehe
blurcase
post Aug 9 2017, 01:23 AM

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QUOTE(toothfearie @ Aug 8 2017, 11:06 PM)
Do you guys use any well-known brands for Microfiber Towels (i.e. the Rag Company)?
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Apart from previously using Meguiars drying towel, so far my other towels are purchased from local detailing suppliers.

I am interested to purchase some from The Rag Company, but havent quite decided what to buy.
blurcase
post Aug 10 2017, 06:41 PM

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QUOTE(VeeJay @ Aug 10 2017, 03:42 PM)
lol...A friend of mine used Osren Reblack on his dashboard and leather seat...he said very shinny...told him its wrong purpose...he said 2 days already all good  bangwall.gif

Wonder whats the implication...
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Mmm, usually depends on the product and the surface applied. Sometimes certain interior surfaces are more sensitive than exterior surfaces due to material composition, so some products may damage the interior but no issues with exterior. However, sometimes also products are recommended separately between interior and exterior surfaces purely for marketing purposes.

There is no hard and fast rule in products usage. A product may be engineered just for a specific purpose or surface type, but consumer testing on other surfaces can show it to be safe to use as well. Personally, I have applied cheap tyre wax on plastic wheel arch covers to make it look nicer. I have also used Meguiars M205 polish to polish headlight and also windscreen and they work fine.

For testing a product for use outside of its intended purpose and surface, it is always important to do a small test spot first. If nothing bad happens, then continue using.
blurcase
post Aug 11 2017, 09:45 AM

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QUOTE(okboy @ Aug 11 2017, 08:17 AM)
where you guys find the pail/bucket to fit grit guard? i go many hardware shop they are not selling empty paint bucket.
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If u want to find paint bucket for grit guard use, u'd have better luck asking friends or renovation contractors to spare u one at the end of their project.

Alternatively, buy the grit guard, then go supermarket and find any normal pail that u can fit it in.

Alternative 2, get a vegetable strainer and put in pail. Works the same. This idea came from another forumer. smile.gif
blurcase
post Aug 11 2017, 04:23 PM

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QUOTE(lkoky @ Aug 11 2017, 12:58 PM)
Result from yesterday 5h work

2 passes of polish
Ipa wipe and Duragloss Environment Shield

Already clayed it the previous day before polish.
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Looks very good! smile.gif
blurcase
post Aug 11 2017, 07:58 PM

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QUOTE(douglas_tong @ Aug 11 2017, 05:55 PM)
Everyday rain and barely got time to wash...
2 week's Dee haven't been washing car...
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I now wash car at night during rainy season, cuz night time chance of rain seems less at my area. Not 100% clean, but close 1 eye as long as generally clean. Old dirt no go new dirt no come. biggrin.gif
blurcase
post Aug 12 2017, 10:37 PM

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QUOTE(marsha1l @ Aug 12 2017, 08:57 PM)
Hi.. Will degreaser or those chemical spray/use to clean engine bay will react with SS piping?..

Ss= stainless steel
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Degreasers are generally alkaline based, but usually the composition is not very strong. While Stainless Steel generally have high resistance to acid and alkaline, corrosion may occur if exposed for too long to strong acids/alkalines. My suggestion is do a test spot and see its reaction. If nothing bad happens, continue with caution and preferably rinse thoroughly after brushing.

QUOTE(CAL V @ Aug 12 2017, 10:00 PM)
Conclusion time, it was quite fun, but not so fun when I saw my shirt covered in all the slur after sanding. It's quite a dirty job, also explains why I didn't do a full wash prior to sanding. I did it all with a Rupes mini and 3 inch interface pad. I don't know why they specifically marketed the Duetto for sanding. I think any machine in the Rupes line should work, but you better pay a lot of attention on what you're doing because they sand really really fast (especially the 15 and 21 with larger orbits). It cut really fast, not sure it is the trizact that are awesome or the 12mm orbit of the mini that helped. I think most other da machines will work too, maybe except any forced rotation ones and rotary. 

Don't ask me why I used a Rupes mini, it's all I have now. I'll probably get a 15/15mk2 down the road, but now that's all I have. I think I know why they use a 6" pad on most sander, you'll get a flatter and more even surface, but in my case, I was doing 30% overlap and it turned out okay. Not the flattest surface ever, but good enough since I'm not chasing for perfection on such an old car.

Besides, I didn't notice any heavy load up or "clogging" on the sanding dics, probably they are that good. A couple squirts of water and they are good to go again. But I did feel that there's noticeably more resistance gliding the machine over the surface once it is covered in lots of slur, so I think that how they do it. Spray some water, wipe the slur off and continue.

But I do advice not to do it on normal cars because you simply don't know how much clear coat there is and how fast you're cutting. In my case, my car have 2 panels that have been re-lacquered (respray clear coat) before and I talked to the painter too so I was sure that there's plenty of clear coat for me to play with. If you are not confident, don't try it. But it is hard to see any brand new cars with this heavy of orange peel, probably only applies to resprayed panels.

I'll continue to finish this panel tomorrow and probably work on another panel too. Hope this long post didn't offend you. biggrin.gif
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Awesome write up man! Not often get to see home detailers go to the extreme of chasing orange peel. Personally I think 3" Rupes is a great choice for u to be doing wetsanding as u get greater control of your wetsanding process.

If u dont mind, care to share where u got the sanding discs and how much they cost? Also, how many discs u used to complete the entire car based on each grit?
blurcase
post Aug 13 2017, 10:28 AM

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QUOTE(CAL V @ Aug 12 2017, 11:12 PM)
Thanks for the compliment  biggrin.gif
One more note, it is a must to use a foam interface pad to help the sanding disc contour better and not to destroy your backing plate.

I got them from Taobao, actually most of the stuff that I can't find online in Malaysia too.
1500 and 3000 grit one is 18yuan and the 5000 grit one is 25yuan.
It comes in 6" and I cut into two 3" discs myself(will waste a bit la). Same goes to the meg's mf cutting disc, but those are super expensive.  sweat.gif

Any clue of getting them or other mf cutting disc like Lake country or Buff and shine locally? I think I prefer them much better than the rupes blue foam. The blue foam pad just disintegrate too fast (small blue bits coming off) and not to mention they are not cheap too.  doh.gif
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Yes agree, the Rupes blue pad according to my personal experience and also many ppl in other forum testing say that its pretty much 1 car use only, disentegrates very quickly. Thats why I stopped using Rupes pad early on and move to Meguiars pads.

For Meguiars microfiber cutting pad, actually the price is the same with their foam pads, roughly USD11 per piece, just that foam pads are sold 1piece per pack, whereas microfiber pads are sold 2 pcs per pack and sold at USD22 per pack, thats why look more expensive.

Locally I not sure of who sells but My old shop supplier sold the foam pads RM100 per piece, quite expensive. I personally prefer to ship in from Autogeek US, but usually purchase multiple items at one go to reduce per item shipping cost. U could try using ezbuy's buy for me service to see if can get cheaper shipping.

This post has been edited by blurcase: Aug 13 2017, 01:51 PM
blurcase
post Aug 14 2017, 04:24 PM

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QUOTE(lkoky @ Aug 14 2017, 01:30 PM)
Guys,

any recommendation for waxing pad? Lazada selling meguairs waxing pads for 104 for 2... but only needed one.
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Try going to Ace Hardware or AEON, u should be able to find some at cheaper price. Alternatively, contact Osren via their FB.
blurcase
post Aug 17 2017, 02:25 PM

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QUOTE(Maxieos @ Aug 16 2017, 08:11 PM)
Problem here , bought a car wash http://www.lazada.com.my/magic-101-wash-am...re-1429640.html from tesco but after washing the surface is more rough almost like sand paper ?

Did I did anything wrong? using normal yellow sponge .

Is this brand magic101 need to wash more than few times to get smoother ?
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While sponge use is not exactly the best practice for car wash, from my personal experience it shouldnt create the rough texture that u mentioned.

May I ask u post a close up photo of your paint condition? That would give the guys here a better idea of your issue.
blurcase
post Aug 17 2017, 09:18 PM

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QUOTE(b0rhui @ Aug 17 2017, 08:33 PM)
So I did my first time waxing today laugh.gif since it has been quite some time since last car wash I spent around 5-7 hours just for it sweat.gif

Routine: Rinse > touch wash (since no foam gun) with 2 bucket method > dry off > claying > touch wash 2 > dry off

Materials used:
1. PG car wash (have meguiars ultimate wash and wax but didn't use since I'm gonna wax it anyway),
2. PG quick shine detailer and clay
3. turtlewax carnauba cleaner wax
4. rain X
5. meguiars microfiber cloth and water magnet microfiber cloth
6. microtex wash mitt

Challenges
During my first time claying-waxing I had several issues:
1. Detailer is greasy. Had to give second car wash after claying, despite some saying buffing it is sufficient
2. The detailer dried off even before finish claying one section. Weather was windy. It left patches so I had to keep buff it off
3. Clay dropping on the floor. I had split my clay into 3 pieces yet first 2 dropped on the floor. Quite challenging to handle those clay I'd say laugh.gif
4. Clay gets dirty so easily. I mean like SO EASILY. I've seen past comments here stating that his 3-part clay could be used for one year. IDK. I suspect my first car wash wasn't clean enough..
5. Carnauba wax is damn tough to be buffed off. Unlike rainx. When the wax dries it is so dusty. And it required medium-hard back forth rubbing with microfiber cloth. Am I doing it wrong? Would too much force actually removes the wax layer also? sweat.gif
6. WATER SPOTS. Since it's been quite some time since last car wash water spots accumulated on the front windshield (rainx already worn off). Unlike rear windshield is still perfect coz rainx layer is still there.

I couldn't remove the water spots. I tried: claying with detailer, applicator foam pad with toothpaste, steel wool, steel wool with toothpaste, stoners invisible glass all won't work. I also tried isopropyl alcohol last time

How? 3M sanding sponge?

Would appreciate if any sifus here could point out any comments on my issues? Newbie here. Thanks in advance and happy detailing!
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Hmm, got a few points that could help:

1. Detailer is greasy. Had to give second car wash after claying, despite some saying buffing it is sufficient: Usually quick detailers are a little bit oily, this is to help lubricate the clay movement, else claybar will grip on paint.
2. The detailer dried off even before finish claying one section. Weather was windy. It left patches so I had to keep buff it off: Spray more, do in covered shade preferably and make sure surface is cool. Alternatively, try just your car wash soap water, plain water, or even Optimum No-Rinse.
3. Clay dropping on the floor. I had split my clay into 3 pieces yet first 2 dropped on the floor. Quite challenging to handle those clay I'd say: If u find using claybar frequently slip from your hand, maybe u wanna consider using clay cloth instead.
4. Clay gets dirty so easily. I mean like SO EASILY. I've seen past comments here stating that his 3-part clay could be used for one year. IDK. I suspect my first car wash wasn't clean enough..: If your claybar gets dirty easily, that means your car surface has a heavy amounts of contaminants. Fold and reopen more frequently.
5. Carnauba wax is damn tough to be buffed off. Unlike rainx. When the wax dries it is so dusty. And it required medium-hard back forth rubbing with microfiber cloth. Am I doing it wrong? Would too much force actually removes the wax layer also?: Did u follow the instructions written on the wax box? Some waxes can apply on whole car before buff off, some require to buff off immediately after each section application. Try following the instructions from your box and see if same issue happens.
6. WATER SPOTS. Since it's been quite some time since last car wash water spots accumulated on the front windshield (rainx already worn off). Unlike rear windshield is still perfect coz rainx layer is still there.: For water spots on windshield, the most effective method I know is using a polish cream that contains cerium oxide. You can try using other forms of car polish cream also, but try on small spot first.

Hope this helps.
blurcase
post Aug 18 2017, 01:38 AM

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QUOTE(b0rhui @ Aug 18 2017, 12:47 AM)
Thanks for going through my post and giving feedbacks accordingly!  notworthy.gif

In terms of efficiency in removing residues, does clay bar > clay cloth or they are the same? Personally I feel claybar is better than clay cloth, but I guess opinion can differ. I was previously using Meguiars consumer claybar, then tried clay cloth, then moved to Meguiars professional claybar. My opinions are only confined to my experience with Meguiars claybar, so maybe others can shed better light on this.

In the instruction section of the wax it only says buff it out after haze appears which I did not notice. It's like dried powder bonded to the paint. What I did was sort-of "knuckle/scratch" it out with microfiber cloth. Was it over-dried? I would then suggest doing test spots before working the entire car so as not to waste your time and effort. Play with the duration between wax-on and buff-off time to get the right timing. Also important is definitely applying as thin as possible, because from my experience, wax doesnt work any better when applied thick, but instead can cause more issues buffing off.

I'll repeat the whole process again - clay and apply thinner layer of wax this time, two layers.

Would you suggest a good clay brand, and the polish cream with cerium oxide please? Osren glass polish abrasive cream? Planning to combine this cream with 3M microfine sanding sponge it should be fine right, since I don't have a DA: Generally I dont recommend any form of abrasive like stainless steel wool, razor blades, or even sanding sponge because of potential risk of micro scratching. U can try Osren glass polish or Autoglym. However, the only glass polish I know available locally that clearly markets their product with cerium oxide is Carpro Ceriglass (sold by Cquartz Malaysia). For pads u can use any good and firm polish/compound pad for the glass polishing process. If u are getting Carpro Ceriglass, it should already come with its own pad as part of a kit and can be done by hand.

Also if a car is coated with ceramic pro coat can I clay and wax another 2 layers onto it? Erm, If I am not mistaken your coating dealer would have told u what u can and cannot do on coating. Maybe u should refer to your detailing shop for this answer.
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blurcase
post Aug 18 2017, 02:17 PM

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QUOTE(C2KBAS2005 @ Aug 18 2017, 11:33 AM)
5 - i still have one new bottle each of "Waxco-Carnuaba Wax" and "Turtle Wax-Ice Speed Compound" haven't tried on my car yet......how or when should i should  use this on cars? Carnauba wax is natural wax for very high gloss, but low durability. Compound is for aggressive polishing if normal polish cant remove the defect.

- claying with "3M-Clay Bar" on my car doesn't really pull out any impurities/dirt from my car's paint even after running many many time, did i do this right? As douglas_tong said, alot of cheap claybars out there using 3M name but is fake. Maybe u should try a different brand claybar or clay cloth to see the difference.

- first time using hand held polishing machine, having problem with the device as it need really firm hold (if not it seems to jump around a lot and pulled to one side...........need to get used to this device) then using my hand which i have more control but tiring Key word: practice, practice, practice. With more practice u will master your machine, pads, and creams u use. Youtube has plenty of tutorials u can watch and learn from.

- i use to polished with "Soft99-Luster Cleaner+Polish" and waxed with "Turtle Wax-Super Hard Shell" on my other car (saga BLM - solid white, 8years old original factory paint) and the result is way much better and shinier then my metallic silver color car, any reason on this?.....or need different methods to do detailing between metallic silver paint and solid white paint? To assess actual detailing results, it is always recommended to use some form of torchlight, this helps to reveal the paint's actual condition.

- any advice on how to removed water mark stain on my windscreen.......using any of the products that i have as above? Try using your claybar. If fail, try using your polish cream on a test spot.
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QUOTE(Xnet @ Aug 18 2017, 01:06 PM)
Question
Will coating prevent bird crap burns?
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Unfortunately nope. Bird poo will eventually eat through the coating and into your car paint. It is always recommended to remove bird poo as soon as possible. U can actually a packet of wet wipe tissues to do that and rinse off with some plain water after.
blurcase
post Aug 19 2017, 02:59 PM

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QUOTE(b0rhui @ Aug 19 2017, 02:32 PM)
Thanks a ton guys. Will do consult the coating dealer first.

Blurcase, do you know what's the difference between CeriGlass and Spotless? Product by same company.
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Ceriglass is a polish cream specifically formulated for glass polishing. It contains cerium oxide, the recommended ingredient in a glass polishing cream to break down and remove water spots safely. This is especially effective on water spots that have etched into the glass windshield.

https://www.carpro-us.com/glass/carpro-ceri...polish-kit-5oz/
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/show...ad.php?t=243434

Spotless is an acid based water spots remover. It is a liquid, not cream, and is sprayed on and wipe off method usage. It is mainly good for breaking down fresh water spots, but generally acid-based water spot cleaners are NOT recommended to be used on glass, ESPECIALLY front windshield. There is always a medium to high risk of the acid permanently etching into the windshield, thereby rendering your windshield blurry and unusable.

https://www.carpro-us.com/paint-decontamina...-1-liter-32-oz/

Personally, I have only used glass polish and regular polish cream before in removing water spots from windshield, never used acid as I am not willing to take that risk.

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